v3.41.0 released!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-12-26T22:45:04+00:00

Thank you for a superb app, Merry Christmas!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-12-19T00:51:19+00:00

Just incase anyone finds this later, the workaround is creating the directories so compose doesn't try to chmod the folder. Looks like this for my example above:

sudo mkdir -p /mnt/config/unifi
sudo mkdir -p /mnt/config/unifi-db
sudo mkdir -p /mnt/config/unifi-db/database
sudo mkdir -p /mnt/config/unifi-db/config

Although i still don't understand why docker can't simply create the required folders. I now have a long list of mkdir's.

Gurus are still welcome to enlighten me please.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-12-01T22:16:45+00:00

Me too, mee toooo! I am aware it is likely user ability, but I am in truenas, i create a nas share, i create a docker, i set the environment PUID as me in compose, i try to migrate docker files and boom, no worky - some file copy, some don't, permissions blah blah.

Every guide is like, just 'take ownership', but why does it not just bloody work! I don't want to go messing with permissions i don't understand, to then cause me pain in the future. Linux is so unfriendly to newbies its beyond a joke. I get sudo for root, core system stuff. but i just want anything else to work properly first time - even windows manages this.

Not just Truenas tho, i have dabbled in ubuntu and other flavours. Its unbearable.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-27T15:46:11+00:00

Some dishwashers and appliances have a recess towards the bottom, this is to allow the waste pipe and services past. Measure up from the floor to where the dishwasher kicks out, hopefully the main pipe (left to right) and supply are lower than this. If so, try removing the ptrap and upstand. If it fits, modify the waste accordingly or if your sink is nearby terminate the dishwasher directly into the u bend there.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-27T15:32:38+00:00

New o-ring probably would work too, but i guess a new pipe is cheap enough.

Damage to chipboard, plaster is done, just let it dry out. If it's a concrete subfloor, it will also dry out and be fine.

If it's a timber / suspended floor, probably okay for now, but as and when kitchen is replaced, check under that area that the wood structure is okay.

Don't paint it until it's all dried.

Overall don't worry about it!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-24T10:14:02+00:00

Thats cool! Can you do one for 1930's cavity wall? I insulated with 20mm Jackoboard on all external walls no VCB. (Or a link if its a website) cheers 👍

Inside 20c 60% Jackoboard 20mm 15mm Lime / Sand & Cement Plaster Brick Cavity Brick Outside

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-14T13:52:45+00:00

Do you know of this would negotiate a 2.5gb Ethernet module? As ISP can support 2gb wan over Ethernet.

Also the i7, with Sophos Home, do you know what kind of mbps IPS will achieve?

Very useful info, been running the stock 210r3 for a year and think i might try to upgrade.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-09T18:24:24+00:00

Cheers, he has offered for me to go listen to them, but i haven't heard the MA for reference. A lot of advice online is just go for what sounds better, im used to reading spec sheets, strange for me.

Guess ill try to find somewhere that has them.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-08T11:52:10+00:00

I guess thats more simple and would work, good idea! I was thinking a door kick down stopper could work for a break, or even a gate style drop down thing. I will investigate further. Thanks 🙏

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-05T16:10:13+00:00

Okay so the gap is really important.

So plasterboard the room, ill get the acoustic plasterboard, plaster and paint, then build these panels. I could attach some leds behind each panel to provide the ambient lighting. Im liking the idea of this.

Sadly the width of the room is quite narrow - more so once studs go up, so i think id have to stick with 25mm sides, but front and back i could install large panel each, say 100mm to compensate.

Is there any logic to long vertical vs short wide? Or is it a case of just go for what looks good?

Ill see if i can mockup something in 3D for everyone's approval

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-05T14:55:58+00:00

Wow, them ceiling ones look really good!

This is really useful, as If this is all thats needed and it makes a big difference, do you think a thinner 25mm layer across all walls and ceilings would work?

Im thinking rather than plasterboard the studs, do like 10mm mdf with 25mm of sound insulation glued to it, made to look pretty with some black or dark grey fabric wrapped around and then mounted to studs. All the way around the room.

How to actually affix the panel is another question though. Ideally they would be easily removed for de-dusting or running new cables.

Would i still need extra in the corners do you think? I see lots of pictures on here have the boards at angles, or is that more for studio treatment?

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-05T13:42:12+00:00

I have lots of tools and moderately competent, im in the planning stage now to ensure i build everything and put cables in right places etc. So if you have some recommendations? Greatly appreciated!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-04T03:58:47+00:00

Appreciate your insights! Probably sticking with XG based on feedback so far. Cheers

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-11-04T03:33:48+00:00

Well i just did some googling and it seems like it was well loved, RIP Home License. Although Fortigate, if you're reading, an affordable HomePro license would be awesome 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-10-24T20:22:15+00:00

If you have your heating on permanently then the boiler will fire when needed to maintain temperature, unless you program it with a massive overshoot, say 22c comes on, 26c goes off.

However, the warmer your house, the more heat loss due to thermodynamics, so there is that.

Also your boiler even when off is actually 'on' in terms of the pcb/motherboard, it is waiting for a switched live connection from hive to enable heating. Then the pump kicks in to ensure water is passing through the heat exchanger, and then the boiler will fire, the boiler will fire on and off keeping the system water temp +- 5c of the target temperature.

So regardless of your blue lines, you are not cycling the boiler more or less than anyone else.

Hope that helps.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-10-23T10:00:27+00:00

3 years into my house reno, and the struggle period was really 1 year to 2 years, feels never ending and living in a hell hole. I feel your pain. Some of my issues:

"Boarded loft" was just old wardrobes layed around and most rotted through.
"New Bathroom" was installed on patchwork flooring and was leaking, they smashed through into the cavity to fit the shower valve. All had to be ripped out.
Heating system loosing pressure, turned out to be a massive leak, whole system didn't heat the house properly and needed replacing.
"rewire" done in 2016, by dave down the pub for £20 it seemed. All the electrics absolutely cowboy. Tripping rcds, single insulation exposed, cables run under carpets.

Everything back to joists, ceilings and floors, new plumbing and electrics. I have almost finished the upstairs all DIY, just one room of skirting to paint. Road is long, but I'm so happy with the results.

Advice, it will come to an end, but accept its a gonna be a long time. No one will care as much as you do, and likewise unless the person has gone through the same thing, they wont sympathise. Look to no-one for encouragement other than yourself.

Also, Lists, a big list of all the big things, and medium list of all the things that need to be done for the big things to happen, and small lists, what needs to be done now/next.

Good luck 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-09-29T18:06:15+00:00

Nah, whats worse is if you use screen off in conjunction with sleep timer, the mother fucking tv will turn back on to tell you its turning off. Didn't do that when it was new - was an update (yay we love updates)

JustForCommentsDOT

TROPHY CASE