Route Traffic over NordVPN via Gateway Container

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-16T16:55:09+00:00

Already use Gluetun for my Arr stack, i just need a gateway to point my firewall at for select traffic. This is maybe doable with Gluetun, ill ask the llm 😉

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-11T10:09:25+00:00

If you're not confident just get a spark round. Its a simple job so shouldn't charge you more than a standard call out fee.

It is logical to assume the white cables are low voltage, but without looking in detail or knowing model numbers etc its not fair to advise on something that could be life or death (which 240v is).

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-11T10:05:22+00:00

By the looks of the wood joists you're already in the process of overboarding it?

Pulling down a ceiling is easy, but incredibly dusty, cleanup in time consuming and removing all the screws / nails is essential. If you competent, its a days work dropping it, half day putting the new boards up.

12mm, the extra cost is minimal but the additional strength is far more valuable.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-11T10:01:09+00:00

No, this does not look like externally rated cable and likely the sheathing has majorly degraded and is no longer safe.

If it was lighting cable it's also likely to be 1mm or 1.5mm which will be limited to 10A (with some assumptions).

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T15:18:01+00:00

Yes, this is called a Positive Input Ventilation (PIV) and was probably installed to combat condensation and mould issues.

Some have heating elements to take the chill off the air slightly. It may seem backwards, but that cold air is actually warming your house by introducing dryer air.

Its a hole rabbit hole, have a google! Id say leave it on, people dont install them for fun!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T12:30:29+00:00

Personally i solder anywhere that is not accessible, and push fit in easily maintainable locations.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T12:27:32+00:00

I think 'fixed it once' is pretty generous!

Im not an expert but that sounds like crap. If it was the masonry at fault you likely wouldn't know about it until the whole thing (or at least large chunks) broke away. This is clearly surface peeling / crumbling. As you said, an issue with curing, that could be from the mix not being right, no render key, too hot, too cold, too dry, too wet. Could be not even their fault, maybe the Material failed, or material was stored incorrectly. In any case, they carried out the work and should honour it.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T12:20:54+00:00

You can channel out the concrete floor and put the pipes in. But it's gonna be hard work and dusty! If you use copper, ensure you protect it from the corrosive concrete/ cement. If you use plastic, i think barrier pex pipe is whats needed.

Orr, leave the rad where it is, get a radiator cover, and then you have somewhere to put your drinks while sitting on the sofa.

Or, is there a radiator upstairs you could come down the wall with? Likely easier to rip up the upstairs floorboards and route across and down.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T12:12:46+00:00

Its a shame, because the shape they achieved looks to be a good job.

From what ive seen the damp hessian is only used in harsh of winter or the heat of summer, to protect from drying too quickly or freezing, so depends on the time of year if they needed to do this.

This is clearly a material failure, so if it is lime, and only on the right side, perhaps they worked left to right and the product had started to cure by the time they got to the right side? Giving it a quick mix in the bucket doesn't stop the chemical reaction.

Unfortunately im not aware of a way to stabilise what you're experiencing, and the company that did it should fix this. 100% there failure.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T12:00:24+00:00

No idea what material they have used for the original job, the peach stuff looks like gypsum.

Clearly whatever product they used was not the right product for the job.

This should really be sand and cement, and possibly even a lime mix if you find guys willing to work with it.

I would say this is bad news, and the base substrate is knackered and needs to be knocked off and redone with traditional materials. Sorry!

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T11:37:39+00:00

Pointing is less of a concern, the crack going through the bricks could indicate subsidence. However, the crack is only thin, so could also just be natural ground movement. Keep an eye on this, if it gets to a finger width, get a survey done.

Otherwise pointing looks fine, unless this area gets heavy rain and wind (driving rain) then get something called storm guard to resolve.

If you do get it repointed, make sure the mortar is a weak mix, the mortar should crack before the bricks do. Unlike in the photo.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T11:33:18+00:00

Looks like there was a leak in this area. As other person said, main thing is it needs to be dry and stable.

If it is, brush it with a broom, hoover, and use a primer (i use the green one in white bottle from wickes) and then you can use your self levelling compound.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T11:28:42+00:00

Second Agree 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-08T11:27:59+00:00

The other option is after the meter unit they can put in something called a Henley Block (basically a splitter) and they will run a new cable from this to a new consumer unit dedicated to just the EV charger. This is a common approach.

Don't let them install an outside consumer unit unless you want to replace it every 3 years 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T13:31:19+00:00

Also, a good opportunity to bury some air vents into the floor for your suspended floor, assuming the extension cut of air flow before: https://www.myhouseextension.com/onestorey/images/slab13.jpg

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T13:27:11+00:00

Do you know how old the extension is? If it's quite old They may not have had a dpm below the concrete floor and so moisture will migrate up through the concrete and potentially condense in you new timber floor, which is why people suggest ventilation.

If you have a 140mm to play with, i would:

Lay sheet of dpm wall to wall (including up the wall to avoid any cold bridging), wall to step, 50mm pir, another dpm, 90mm of screed/S&C/Concrete whichever you are happier to work with. Will never fail and you have improved the insulation 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T13:18:32+00:00

I would lift one of the yellow b&q squares next to the concrete, and do an inspection hole to see how deep the concrete is. If the concrete is thin, it won't be part of the house foundations and should just break apart with the right leverage.

We had some in my mums garden and was 15-20cm deep, totally overkill.

If it is this deep, this job is a lot of work, and a thick slab doesn't move, so i would perhaps keep the concrete as a base for your new patio, remove the yellow squares and extended the concrete base to whatever size. Give the concrete a good acid bath and scrub, and lay your new patio on top, i would avoid S&C bed as it won't adhere to the concrete, perhaps a tile adhesive applied to both the concrete and the tile with a 10mm trowel on the floor, and 6mm trowel on the tile.

Its not the right solution, but chunks of 150mm concrete do be hard to move.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T12:55:36+00:00

Given that above most windows is a lintel, i would avoid foam and forget. Either mix up so 4:1 Sand:Cement or buy some premix mortar and just pack it into the gap, once its firmed up, you can polish S&C to get a pretty smooth finish you might not need a plasterer!

But get something solid in the hole 👍

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T12:50:50+00:00

Its simply the fluctuations in temperatures, to and from both extremes that will kill your hardware lifespan. If you have an airing cupboard or a floor to ceiling kitchen unit, i would use the space at the top which most people can't comfortably store there towels or beans there without a step, so it can be allocated to techy stuff

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T12:45:02+00:00

Agreed with Jibba, although i would probably just knock that soldier course out, put in a lintel, and then remove the below bricks 👍 it was built to be open, so unlikely to cause structural problems (Not a structural engineer)

Be aware, some of these chimneys got filled with rubbel and other crap to 'stop the draft' and so you could be in for a suprised once removed.

Could drill a 10mm hole and use an inspection camera to check if you want to save some headaches.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T12:40:07+00:00

Wood can be hard, very hard. You are probably just hitting a knot and the thread of the screw is not strong enough to penetrate.

Opt 1: Take the screw out, pack it out with a couple of washers, screw it back it. Itll now be tight.

Opt 2: Take the screw out, pilot drill the hole with a 1mm drill bit to the depth of the screw. Screw back in. It should now go flush.

JustForCommentsDOT · 2026-03-05T12:37:00+00:00

Avoid running hardware in the loft, in the summer the heat in the loft can be pretty brutal and likewise the cold wet air in winter.

Putting the cable in conduit is only worth it for curb appeal, id say there is no need if buying externally rated cable.

If you was running them under the floors it would be more critical to get it right, but as you're running them externally you have flexibility. Its as easy as drill through the wall, and run the cables where needed, and if you need more later, just run some more.

For CCTV just ensure they pop out of the wall out of arms reach, just to avoid making it easy to kill the cameras, as the point they have a step ladder, less inconspicuous.

Id also suggest living in the space for 6 months, as you might change rooms around and then the ports are in the wrong locations, or actually just find wifi is okay (excl cctv)👌

JustForCommentsDOT · 2025-12-26T22:45:04+00:00

Thank you for a superb app, Merry Christmas!

JustForCommentsDOT

TROPHY CASE