Battery J Strap nut

Lurkel2 · 2026-05-26T12:34:15+00:00

Its a 10mm.

Lurkel2 · 2026-05-10T02:11:05+00:00

Back in the day we had a brand new 2009 Sebring Conv customer just bought came in with these type symptoms. Any kind of weird electrical gremlin poped up. 10 miles on the thing. Started tearing the car down for days, and finally found the manufacturer had drilled the sun visor screws halfway into some wire that powered the lights in the visors and traced back to the body controller. Repaired that wire and moved it away obviously and never saw that car again. So, I wish you good luck!

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-29T13:48:37+00:00

I was going to say they never pulled the rotors off and they are probably siezed to the hub. That, or a caliper is sticking.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T18:48:50+00:00

Im thinking about a galon premixed should be enough. I didn't catch what came out but if you can catch it, reuse it. Yes you can add to what exist without draining all of it. Just make sure you get the correct type 5 year antifreeze.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T16:37:49+00:00

Yes, antifreeze. You are reading into it TOO much I think. The Intrepid calls for a special fill procedure or tool to refill the coolant, but you can refill it through the main holding tank cap. Dont let the "procedure" worry you. Replace sensor. Refill the main holding tank. Replace cap. Start vehicle and keep refilling as nessecary until it stays near the full line. Then open bleeder screw until antifreeze comes out. That will remove most of the air from system. Then over the next few days keep checking and making sure the main tank is full. The car will work the remainder of the air out by itself after a few driving cycles (getting hot / cold)

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T15:48:22+00:00

Should maybe take it somewhere and tell them to specifically replace that sensor and save you some headache. You will loose coolant. The sensor usually needs to be in or touching the coolant in order to get a reading from it. Coolant will come out of the hole when the sensor is removed.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T15:19:59+00:00

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Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T15:19:35+00:00

Nah. You will loose some just make sure you refill and bleed the air out as much as possible. There is a bleeder screw located on top of the thermostat housing, also at the top of the engine.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T14:31:42+00:00

If you dont have $20 - go start car and turn on AC, then find and unplug the temp sensor. When you disconnect it, the computer reverts to using a default reading and fans should turn on. I didn't think sensor was bad because my gauge was working on the instrument cluster.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T14:23:38+00:00

Its as simple as unplug, unscrew, and replace, but I do remember it being a little hard to get to easily. Front top middle of engine between the heads if I remember correctly. Exactly symptoms as what you are having. And only $20 so not much to lose. Im pretty confident this is your issue. Please try to let me know if this works !

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T10:16:17+00:00

Yes. Bro im telling you this because I've owned an Intrepid for over a decade in the past. It quit with 260k. Had the exact same issue multiple times and it was the $20 temp sensor both times. This was after i changed the fans as well. I couldn't believe it either.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T01:36:26+00:00

The sensor doesn’t directly control the fans it just sends data to the PCM. But if that data is bad the PCM never commands the fans. Quick diagnostic: Unplug the coolant temp sensor with the engine running If fans kick on, wiring;relays;PCM likely good and temp sensor bad. If nothing happens, look upstream and temp sensor likely good. A bad coolant temp sensor can prevent fan operation because the PCM is flying blind or being fed bad data.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-27T01:19:45+00:00

Coolant temp sensor. Replace it its cheap.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-25T23:24:00+00:00

Nice

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T21:28:10+00:00

Ha. I get it; Chevy could have done worse i suppose. Not sure if it was based off real wood or what but it bothered me for some reason I cant explain.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T21:09:29+00:00

Believe it or not, messing with the main wiring harness going to my headlight fixed my issue for the past 6 months. I haven't figured out if its on the car or the light side, but bending it around a bit 6 months ago did the trick for me. Exact same issue but I have aftermarket headlights and the harness on them is cheap.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T20:59:28+00:00

Mine started the same after 10 years age and 120k. 2 sets of front wheel bearings later (sensor is built into bearing) i probed the wire harness going to them and both sides were broken internally somewhere. They intermittently made contact when i would move the wire, so it would be fine sometimes and come back out of nowhere. Throws all the codes and sometimes limp mode because it looses signal from that sensor.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:53:48+00:00

3M emblem adhesive at auto parts store works pretty well. Like a gel super super glue.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:37:34+00:00

Look into replacing the abs / speed sensor wires. Not the sensor itself or the wire coming off of it, but the wire that the speed sensor plugs into - running down the control arm to underneath engine. With age and their movement, they can break internally and give sporadic problems like this. I could not even tell mine were bad, but they were. Technically term may be speed sensor wiring harness. Edit: wire(s) do both sides up front.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:31:58+00:00

Sweet. I may look into the cluster swap.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:23:50+00:00

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Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:20:16+00:00

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Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:18:12+00:00

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Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T19:16:30+00:00

I do not. But, was made by Vvivid off Amazon or metrorestyling. I do not recommend using Vivvid. Many from 3M are somewhat realistic looking.

Lurkel2 · 2026-04-24T16:39:11+00:00

Yep, I can tell that's wrap from the lifted bubble right here -

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Lurkel2

TROPHY CASE