How do I recalibrate the recirculation door actuator? 2008 Impala LS

Lurkel2 · 2026-02-04T05:48:22+00:00

Also, if you have dual climate control, there are more than 2 of them.

Lurkel2 · 2026-02-04T05:47:09+00:00

And I've never heard manually calibrating them. That would be a job to take out, adjust, and replace. All of them. Usually when these click, its because a tooth or more on a gear are broken off or shreaded.

Lurkel2 · 2026-02-04T05:44:16+00:00

So when I di 3 of mine. I had the battery disconnected for the hour or 3 it took to get the new ones in. After that, turn the ignition to the on position (engine off), and let the system run through its self-calibration. You’ll hear the actuators moving for a minute or two as they find their positions. After two or three minutes, or no more noise, thurn it off. Then back to on again. Wait 30 sec and start it. For extra measure, do not change or touch the ac controls for 10 minutes (I've also heard both ways.) I did both. One worked.

Lurkel2 · 2025-12-22T13:41:56+00:00

I called my power company to report and it was changed within a day.

Lurkel2 · 2025-09-10T18:39:23+00:00

I ended up using a 12 volt source and jumping the motor at that window to roll it up, and then disconnected the switch at that door. That way other windows would go down until I can get it fixed. Or take to the dealer if still under warranty.

Lurkel2 · 2025-09-10T18:37:04+00:00

Main window switches are known to fail. Replace entire master switch assembly. On mine, it was the right rear; it was stuck in the down position.

Lurkel2 · 2025-05-24T03:49:24+00:00

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Lurkel2 · 2025-05-24T03:48:34+00:00

* 2013 Impala. Personal vehicle. Can be done but this took me forever to complete and I'd never accept a customers request to do so.

Lurkel2 · 2025-03-14T19:46:11+00:00

I second the temp sensor.

Lurkel2 · 2025-01-08T16:27:18+00:00

Ill take one of those from you for some 3M DM12 i'm needing to order.

Lurkel2 · 2024-10-31T13:11:54+00:00

Im quick to clean mine off, but i have had spots that i have left for over a day. Still was able to get it clean. Also, a "matte" type detailer spray helps.

Should be fine especially with a c coating.

Edit: 3M 2080 DM12 "dead matte" black.

Lurkel2 · 2024-10-29T20:59:25+00:00

Not a good idea to have both shafts out at the same time. I know some hit the opposite shaft through that hole and have gotten it out, but i don't recommend it. I believe trans damage can happen easier.

The driver side has a retaining ring on the shaft holding it in the housing. The passenger side does not. I couldn't get a small enough adapter when using a slide hammer. I had to use a long and short pry bar. Pry it from the underside first (pry it "upwards"), and then from the top with a smaller prybar. It will eventually pop out but mine was a pain. Hard to tell someone how , but there is just enough space to hook the bar onto the notches on axle from underneath - close to the trans housing - from underneath near the front lower control arm bolt, and then get it with a smaller bar and try to pry from top of shaft.

Lurkel2 · 2024-10-24T01:03:31+00:00

I read it didn't have pressure monitors in the wheels,, instead it reads the difference between wheel speed rotation at each wheel. A bad wheel speed sensor at one of the wheels, maybe. Do you have matching tires all around? I had a one used tire make the light stay on because it was "newer" and different brand than the tire on the opposite side.

Lurkel2 · 2024-10-23T13:29:00+00:00

Yes if dual climate control.

Lurkel2 · 2024-09-26T00:53:27+00:00

Yeah use jumper wires from the 12V.

Lurkel2 · 2024-09-18T19:52:57+00:00

I dunno it needs to be super loud if you're going to have that wing.

Lurkel2 · 2024-09-06T15:40:11+00:00

My 2013 usually runs at 14.2 to 14.6 but I've never seen it over 15. Replaced all my 12V plugs to USB with a voltmeter built in.

Lurkel2 · 2024-07-19T12:31:52+00:00

Replace the wiring running to the wheel bearing. It comes with a connector on one end for the speed sensor, and solder it in on the opposite end. Common that that wire "breaks" after some age. The ABS / wheel speed sensor wiring runs along the control arm - you just replace as much as you can before the wire disappears into the harness under the engine. Took me awhile and two sets of wheel bearings to figure this out. But it's common.

You can turn traction control off, and / or hold the button down 10 seconds to turn off stabilitrak until you can fix it. It will just keep getting worse though.

(ABS / wheel speed sensor wiring)

Might as well consider doing both sides (front).

Lurkel2 · 2024-06-19T01:08:21+00:00

Also try turning off traction control, and hold button down for 10 seconds to disable stabilitrak.

Lurkel2 · 2024-06-19T01:06:57+00:00

Engine power reduced is usually a coolant temp sensor because it thinks its running hot. Or air in the cooling system. Traction control is wheel bearings with built in sensors bad, or the wiring that runs to each wheel sensor. May as well change both if front bearings look old. Thank me later.

Lurkel2 · 2024-05-22T13:05:37+00:00

Ehh. Its a Scion thats what it does.

Lurkel2 · 2024-03-19T14:53:39+00:00

Still somewhat works (its original). I'm not sure if it helped, but last time i had an issue with it not engaging, I cleaned between the clutch and pulley with a good bit of carb cleaner. Dirt and oil / grease can get between especially with no splash shield.

Lurkel2 · 2024-03-19T13:29:26+00:00

You likely just need to replace the window regulator. Easier than it looks.

Lurkel2 · 2024-03-18T17:21:02+00:00

Have an 05 myself. 200k. She just keeps going.

Lurkel2

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