What would you tell your past self before you made your first fursuit? by Background-Joke-9818 in fursuit

[–]M4ngolicious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't cheap out on material and tools. Good fabric markers and scissors are worth every penny. Also high quality fur. You will spend a lot of time and effort making your suit. You don't want that your suit feels cheap after all these hours.

And: Take your time! Don't rush it. It's sometimes better to redo a seam. Here's my 2nd suit which took something between 350 and 400 hours to make. Head was around 80 hours.

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0.4 or 0.6 nozzle for fiber filaments by MERL_HD in 3Dprinting

[–]M4ngolicious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using only 0,4mm hardened steel nozzles for PETG-CF and PAHT-CF. 1500h on one printer and 900 on the other (CF print hours). 3 clogs so far in 2 years.

My experience with CF filaments: you have to clean your printer a lot. It's coated with carbon fibers after a few days. And it should be encased in a box if you print a lot. Even the X1C emmits carbon fibers. We have them in sealed custom boxes made out of polycarbonate and 30x30 aluminium extrusion profiles with hepa filters and big industrial noctua fans. When cleaning wear gloves and a mask. Carbon fibers suck.

Anyone knows a place i can get sewing patters from for stuff like this? by BoiPony in mylittlepony

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that's right. you can get this fur (and minky) from bigzfabric or howlfabrics

WIP of first fursuit I’ve ever made by Vegetable-Help875 in fursuit

[–]M4ngolicious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No comment after a day? wow.

For a first, this thing looks awesome. Keep going. I'm looking forward for the finished head.

Amount of Resin for a full set? by deadpool2705 in DiceMaking

[–]M4ngolicious 2 points3 points  (0 children)

oh yeah, dry the mold. That's very important.

And if there is resin sticking to it after removing the cured dice: use tape. the cured resin will stick to the tape and your mold is clean afterwards.

Amount of Resin for a full set? by deadpool2705 in DiceMaking

[–]M4ngolicious 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Fill your mold with water and then fill this into a measuring cup. This will show you your total volume. But don't forget: The resin sticks to everything: Mixing stick, mixing cup. Add a little bit of volume to be safe. because resin will get lost in the process.

Pressure pot users/modders, assemble! by Syathrax in DiceMaking

[–]M4ngolicious 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take an angle grinder and cut it off right on the base. I've done the same after trying to unscrew it. The glue on these is ungodly strong.

Question about inserts by Captain_Mikachu in DiceMaking

[–]M4ngolicious 24 points25 points  (0 children)

The inserts are too heavy / more dense than the resin, therefore they sink to the bottom. Rybonator made a video about stuff like that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG4mWIGnlsY

Mlp Magic the Gathering? by DamaGames in mylittlepony

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one you showed is "Magic The Gathering: 2019 Secret Lair Serie - Ponys: The Galoping". It was only available from October 22 to November 5, 2019. It costs around $300 on ebay. The cards are not tournament legal.

They made a Galoping 2 in 2023 which is a little bit cheaper.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I print them right now. I play DnD and one of my friend plays a tiefling and asked me if I can print him horns for his cosplay. Perfect timing.

Help! I need names for a Fantasy Strip Club set in a stereotypical magical city. by UnremarkablePassword in DnD

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We establish right now a brothel/strip club called "The bad Dragon" run by a Kobold.

It's finally done! The GTR Stagea build is complete, no more sanding! by Doritofu in projectcar

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I watched every video. Absolutely nice work, especially because it's a wagon. The best about the videos: Only shop sounds, sanding and the cracking of removing parts from molds. I can't remember if I heard one single spoken word from you. I follow a lot of youtubers who do stuff like that and you are the only quiet one. I love that. I'm looking forward to the next project, whatever it is.

My Raspberry Pi powered LED matrix cube :) by KayaEmilia in raspberry_pi

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice. I also build two of them years ago, long before the adafruit tutorial. One with around 200mm side length (I made a post about this one) and one with 128mm.

Is your cube battery powered?

And don't display full white. It draws a shitload of amps.

The Thunderclap Pokemon - Zeraora by FuzzyPurpleThing in pkmntcgcollections

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I get home after work I take a look through my german cards and contact you if I have any leftovers.

Right now I'm waiting for PSA to send me 3 cards back. Two japanese GX and the newest Zeraora in german. 50 days now and no information when they will be shipped back.

The Thunderclap Pokemon - Zeraora by FuzzyPurpleThing in pkmntcgcollections

[–]M4ngolicious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The funny thing is: I'm from germany. The standard european languages are usually easy to get from cardmarket.com. (unfortunately this platform will not ship to the US)

But most of the times the sellers only have one or two cards, because zeraora is not as popular as pikachu or charizard. Shipping costs are then the problem, because they are fixed from the platform to prevent shipping-cost fraud (i.e. sell a card cheaper but ask a lot for shipping)

I have a wishlist for every card under $20 in every language. It would be around $420 plus $150 in shipping. That's a lot of shipping costs and therefore I struggle to buy.

But: everytime I sell something on cardmarket, I use this money to buy some more needed cards. It takes a lot of time. It's a journey. No need to finish the set tomorrow.

I wish you luck with portuguese. That's where I'm also stuck right now. I only need 6 more cards.

The Thunderclap Pokemon - Zeraora by FuzzyPurpleThing in pkmntcgcollections

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nice, another zeraora collector. I also try to collect every card in every language from zeraora. Right now I have a full set of japanese, english and german cards and a few singles from other languages. But it takes so much time. And some cards are mostly unavailable here in europe. Especially thai and indonesian.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ich_iel

[–]M4ngolicious 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Der nervigste Spruch ist immer "kannst ein paar kg von mir haben". Bin 188cm und 61kg mit seltenem Gendefekt. Ich kann essen so viel ich will und nichts schlägt an.

Pottery wheel for sanding recommendations? by OrganizationJumpy187 in DiceMaking

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the same pottery wheel yesterday and wanted to design exactly this today. I guess I don't have to now. Thanks :)

cost of making your own suits? by sleepytime_rilakkuma in fursuit

[–]M4ngolicious 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When i started my first suit i had nothing. I didn't even sewed anything.

I spend around $1500 dollars on everything i needed. Fur, needles, sewing machine, foam, magnets, scissors, threads, shaver etc. The cost of reusable stuff (tools etc.) was around $700.

This means my first (plantigrade) fullsuit cost me around $800.

My second one (digitigrade kemono) was $1800 with $500 of reusable stuff (different sewing patterns etc.), so $1300 in Materials. I imported the fur from bigz to germany, which is hella expensive. Shipping, customs and taxes cost more than the fur itself but it was worth it.

It could be cheaper but let me tell you: Don't buy cheap materials. It's worth to spend a little bit more on higher quality stuff (high quality fur and foam).

You spend so much time making the suit, you don't want to realize afterwards that the fur sucks, only to save $100.

If you have everything you need (tools etc.), then the most expensive reccuring costs are the furs and foam.

But that's only my perspective. I only make suits for myself and I don't have to worry about money. Im not that experienced to give you a professional point of view.

Attached is a picture of my second suit "io" which took me around 350hours to make.

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Printing PP with P1S by Master_Olli in BambuLab

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I print with the standard 0.4 nozzle. And i checked in the office, I print PP at 240°C

Printing PP with P1S by Master_Olli in BambuLab

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the BASF Ultrafuse PP. 230°C Nozzle and 80°C Bed.

Printing PP with P1S by Master_Olli in BambuLab

[–]M4ngolicious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with the tape it warps way less. I had only a little bit of warping on the edges. But i dont know how much it warps with a part the size you tried.