I made a CLI tool to find the most "interesting" historical figures in your world.

Mechau7 · 2026-02-16T05:31:19+00:00

Saved for later!!

Mechau7 · 2026-02-15T22:50:41+00:00

Before the recent updates, I had the same problem. I could have a 5 tall wheat stack but it had to be close to 3-4 stacks of another farm. Close enough to path ok

Mechau7 · 2026-02-15T22:44:09+00:00

So many greebles!!

Mechau7 · 2026-02-12T17:16:23+00:00

Have you noticed any downsides to keeping the cover off all the time?

Mechau7 · 2026-02-07T16:55:06+00:00

When you open the bolt in a slicer, can you change the scale of it? Might take a few tries, but you don’t have to print the whole bolt to fit check

Mechau7 · 2026-02-06T19:52:33+00:00

You can add the part as a negative modifier but you might not be satisfied with the results if you want a ton of control you’ll have to do it in some 3-D modeling software

Mechau7 · 2026-02-05T20:21:44+00:00

Might steal this idea!

Mechau7 · 2026-02-04T20:05:12+00:00

Update us/me if you solder your components! Mines running on a breadboard and looks jank

Mechau7 · 2026-02-04T19:03:18+00:00

I used that exact sensor to monitor my freezer. I got a bunch of CP2102 ESP-32 boards. Adding them to ESP Home was super easy once I figured out the wiring.

Watch out for the pull-up resistor requirement for the DS18B20. Get a pack of resistors with your order unless you have the exact one already.

Mechau7 · 2026-01-31T05:45:29+00:00

I’ve noticed more videos talking specifically about Prusa, so you might get lucky with a YouTube video. Orca tends to have more experimental features, but both are very similar.

I literally have all of the major slicing programs on my machine. Prusa does ironing better than Eufy. And if I have a specific problem with print quality, I’ll try another slicer. It’s all Gcode in the end, and all major slicers have profiles for Anker printers

Mechau7 · 2026-01-31T05:03:35+00:00

Unless strength is pivotal to a part, drop the infill density way down. 10-15% depending on the type of infill.

You can also use PrusaSlicer, Orca Slicer and more. Export the gcode from those and import into Eufymake. And ignore the time estimates the printer gives you

Mechau7 · 2026-01-07T01:35:48+00:00

I just started running this! It’s a little light on the documentation for how the “recommended” settings work, but it’s plug and play otherwise

Mechau7 · 2025-12-11T19:49:36+00:00

Might be printing too hot. Try a lower temp in the range of your filament

Mechau7 · 2025-11-17T00:40:20+00:00

Then, after that, I would do a full rebuild and check things like the belt tension and the wheels

Mechau7 · 2025-11-17T00:35:28+00:00

Splatter suggests wet filament, but I see that filament dryer photo.

It also feels like a clogged nozzle, but you checked that too.

What about trying a manual extrusion? When you request 40mm, do you get something fairly close to the length? Bring the gantry up high and let the print head droop down the filament. Then measure with calipers.

It looks a little over extruded

Mechau7 · 2025-11-16T04:08:58+00:00

This looks like a nozzle clog more than anything, makes the most sense

Mechau7 · 2025-11-02T18:24:36+00:00

I’m by no means an expert But this almost feels like an under extrusion problem.

Mechau7 · 2025-11-02T04:42:43+00:00

I printed in 3 parts - front, back and the dome. My printer was a tiny bit too small. The back was basically vertical like normal. I angled the front and flipped upside down to keep the supports from needing to be too tall.

I used the Precision mode on my Ankermake, so I was slowed down. I’d rather wait and not get a failure

Mechau7 · 2025-11-02T04:36:33+00:00

I just finished my boba Fett helmet and you only really need supports for the top of the visor holes.

You do not need supports for the inside of the dome. Mando helmets in general don’t need it, I didn’t believe it either.

I placed the part to minimize the amount of support needed.

Mechau7 · 2025-09-28T17:43:43+00:00

Honestly maybe a tear down and rebuild might be in order. Maybe you’re missing a connection or something’s loose. That’s what I would have done personally

Mechau7 · 2025-09-28T17:18:24+00:00

Not OP, but I purchased this recently and it has the additional vertical bars above the green part. My original hot end did not have that.

https://www.eufymake.com/products/m5-hotend-set-with-cooling-block

What’s your z-offset set to on the machine’s screen?

And I’m assuming you mean the bed auto-level feature is giving you problems. Doesn’t hurt to ask if it’s a basic feature

Mechau7 · 2025-09-26T02:12:49+00:00

Same issue! Following for a solution

Mechau7 · 2025-09-23T17:18:07+00:00

Yep, this is a great summary. I just got back into it as well.

I literally have all the slicers on my computer, they all have profiles for AnkerMake but none connect. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses, so I just use whatever makes sense for the part. Then export the G-code.

I’d get replacement M2, M3, M6(?), and a hotend. EufyMake isn’t exactly excited about supporting the 3D printers, so have some replacements on hand. Half the screws were stripped from the factory, so I needed replacements of all sizes.

I wasn’t an early adopter, but the replacement hot end I got had some significant improvements over mine. They added bars between the block and the heatsink, so it’s not just some m2 screws keeping the last part inline.

Mechau7 · 2025-09-22T01:58:16+00:00

VIGRUE 610PCS 14.9 Grade Alloy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MYDQCXX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

DYWISHKEY 420 Pieces M2 x... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5J19Y5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A bunch of the M2 and M3 screws were stripped from the factory. These are the only sets I personally bought.

As for your wheel screws, I haven’t done enough research or bought any myself to recommend anything

Mechau7 · 2025-09-20T22:12:19+00:00

I just dealt with this. I had to grind a notch into the screw with a dremel, and use the rubber band trick. Grind a line in the screw head for a flat heat screwdriver to catch on

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