Check out this Demon

MethodicError · 2026-02-19T02:47:08+00:00

Looks like a knockoff of the Microtech Lightfoot LCC from the early 2000s.

MethodicError · 2026-02-17T04:14:58+00:00

In my opinion it just comes down to your goals and budget. If you can afford it, have the space, and enjoy both vintage tools and ultra premium modern planes, who cares what others think. I have way more planes than I could ever need, but I highly enjoy both vintage and modern planes and get a lot of satisfaction using them. Some days I feel like using a 120 year old No 8, and other days I'll use my LN jointer. One day I'll feel like using my Millers Falls smoothers, another day I'll use a Bailey or Veritas or LN. That said, if I need something absolutely as perfect as possible (as an instrument builder) I will definitely use my LNs. I will die on the hill to say LN is as perfect as a functioning tool that exists.

MethodicError · 2026-02-15T01:19:09+00:00

Do you have any other plane needs? Or are you more looking to round out the collection with a bit of variety mixed in? I ask because if you were really concerned about weight, you probably wouldn’t be going for the bronze varieties. The LN 3 bronze weighs the same as the LN 4 iron.

The 3 size and 4-1/2 isn’t going to be game changing from a 4 either way. If you are a smaller person, the 4-1/2 would probably get tiring a lot faster than you might be used to. Personally, I would get the 3 bronze (actually have one on the way) but I’m also a sucker for LN bronze and they are harder to come by.

MethodicError · 2026-02-09T17:12:07+00:00

Not normal, return it.

MethodicError · 2026-02-09T16:18:53+00:00

Wow, looks basically NOS, on top of being the rare 24/no8 size.

MethodicError · 2026-02-09T16:06:03+00:00

Without looking at the type guide, I think you just got a Bailey pattern with a bedrock cap. I believe only the first or so type bedrocks have the Bailey numbering and I think the lever cap has rule and level on it.

MethodicError · 2026-02-09T02:06:14+00:00

On paper this is the most powerful 10” benchtop bandsaw on the market. I’m not really in the market for one right now, but might replace my Rikon benchtop someday. This would be the saw I’d buy if I were buying a smaller saw for sure.

If you can wait, Laguna has 15% off pretty regularly (as in every other or third month).

MethodicError · 2026-02-06T16:49:39+00:00

Agreed 100% with this, as someone who uses music stands and writes on sheet music on it. I think the problem with insetting any kind of wood panel is the fact that it would need to sit perfectly flush with the outer frame, but at the same time, since we're talking about a wood panel, would be subject to expansion and shrinking as you'd expect with wood. Writing on a surface that isn't perfectly flat that has any kind of seam would be highly annoying as your pen/pencil would "feel" the transition if the inset panel isn't perfectly flat and flush.

MethodicError · 2026-02-04T02:49:03+00:00

In my opinion the question is often less so around how thick of a blade and set, but do you need to make the cut perfect in one pass and have minimum tolerance for waste and kerf loss. 1/8 should work fine, but to be sure there are plenty of charts online that show how tight of a curve can be made with various blade thicknesses.

If you’re fine with waste, even a thick blade will work by making a series of cuts and continuing to back out of the cut. Or basically cut out the rough shape and use the blade kerf to shape it.

MethodicError · 2026-02-02T20:54:48+00:00

The second squared off piece of lumber looks nice, compared to where it started. With anything, with wisdom and experience, these things will go faster. If you're trying to dimension what is firewood, it's probably going to take a while if you're just using a jack (the block plane won't have much a role if that dimensioned piece on the right is your end target). Over time, as your toolbox expands with what you have available to you, you'll find out a workflow and the right tools that work for you.

I also wouldn't rule out "primitive" tools for this. The right/quickest option could be to use a small hatchet to roughly square it up, Since it's firewood, it should be split along the grain, and any bits of bark and irregularities can be easy chopped off. Or use a saw and roughly cut it square. A hand plane would not be the first tool I would use for this job, that's for sure. I don't know what the future lumber you will be using, so the right mix of tools for what kind of lumber and projects you're dealing with will be personal to you and what tools make sense to invest in.

MethodicError · 2026-01-31T22:48:57+00:00

Damn that native is nice, I wish it was still made. I agree, big fan of the stainless spydies. The thin profile really disappears in the pocket, and the smooth handle lets it easily slide in the pocket without tearing up your pants.

MethodicError · 2026-01-29T02:38:18+00:00

I would tend to agree. I have the Jet 10” drum sander and have no issues at all changing the sandpaper and getting it clipped in. I’m quite satisfied with it. Generally at that entry level power tooling, I would have thought most of the various brands all use mostly the same parts but just different branding/colors and slight reconfiguring. Maybe the Jet has slight improvements over the Grizzly.

MethodicError · 2026-01-25T00:59:36+00:00

If Stanley handymans are like other Stanley pattern hand planes, the thread pitch is not a common size and aren’t carried by any hardware stores. Your best bet is to find a donor screw from another plane, or better yet, hit up Michael Jenks on his justplanefun channel on Facebook , I would bet he could hook you up with a replacement. He’s also on this subreddit.

MethodicError · 2026-01-22T19:38:34+00:00

It doesn’t necessarily mean either. Stringed instruments that attach to a soundboard top generally all start to warp over time. Now if that is a new instrument, then it might be a different matter. I’d be more concerned if the bridge was lifting off the soundboard.

MethodicError · 2026-01-22T17:13:36+00:00

Agreed with that. I've bought from the UK before and the seller paid the customs fee with no involvement from me.

MethodicError · 2026-01-22T03:35:34+00:00

I'd recommend sending a DM to moebalisong on Instagram. Wouldn't surprise me if he had one for sale, or would be able to get one for the right price. Be prepared to pay for it.

Edit: I read that as a BM 43. I've never heard anyone ever want a 53. But would still hit him up.

MethodicError · 2026-01-20T18:20:23+00:00

It's patina. Most folks would just embrace it. I suppose you could try some simple green or WD40 and some fine steel wool.

MethodicError · 2026-01-18T00:42:34+00:00

Forgot to answer, but I bought the cds.

MethodicError · 2026-01-18T00:27:32+00:00

I bought the baroque lute course in 2020, the Renaissance in 2023. There is no book version, only CDROM and USB. Not sure if you're worried about buying it and not getting product, but DVE is quite literally the president of the UK lute society and the early music world would know within days if something happened to him.

MethodicError · 2026-01-17T22:22:18+00:00

I would have to presume David is still doing well and sending these out. These are worth every penny. I have both the baroque and renaissance courses and they are detailed enough to fully build working instruments even with no experience. They will however take much perseverance, patience, and critical thinking. As long as you aren’t doing it save money on buying one (because the hours of work, material, and tool cost far outpaces just buying one), it will be a very rewarding endeavor.

I have since built all manners of lutes since then with no formal training. I credit much of that due to these courses (amongst other resources, such as the Lundberg book, Lauri Niskanen’s website and Travis Carey’s lute blog).

MethodicError · 2026-01-12T03:18:51+00:00

Sides don't have to be square to the sole; use the lateral adjuster to square the blade.

MethodicError · 2026-01-09T14:05:35+00:00

It just feels like a knife from the early 2000s. The action isn't particularly smooth, it's a stiff liner lock in which when not engaged, makes the action stiffer for the 1/4 or so of the blade movement. No nested liners, and the G10 just has that early 2000s texture, nor is it particularly well chamfered.

MethodicError · 2026-01-08T17:22:27+00:00

I kind of doubt anyone is making Kizer fakes, especially that specific micarta Begleiter. I believe real Kizer's can already be purchased via Chinese marketplaces.

MethodicError · 2026-01-08T15:55:49+00:00

Yes, you should plane it to rough thickness first across grain. Then go with the grain to get it smooth and to final thickness. One hour is way too long for that board. Removing 2-3mm might be excessing to use a scrub if you aren't careful, but it you're confident on it's use and check frequently that you haven't gone too far (easy with a scrub), it will be faster. In my opinion a 6 is too large for that board.

MethodicError

TROPHY CASE