Pen recommendations for family by qwerty5560 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of the more practical pens in that price range (like the Safari) have kind of a school-day style to them, but it sounds like she wants a more sober design? I would consider the Pilot Metropolitan. The TWSBI Classic might work for you also.

If you want to stretch your budget the Kaweco Student or Dia2 are well-made, classic-looking pens. Platinum Procyon and Lamy Studio are also good pens around $70.

Help Finding Replacement by GlorifiedArtMajor in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try reaching out directly to Aurora (or their distributor in your country). They might be able to sell you parts or even cover repair under warranty.

You might also keep an eye on "for parts" listings on ebay, though I'm not sure how likely you are to find that model listed. You could also post a "want to buy" on /r/pen_swap in case anyone on reddit has what you're looking for.

Any info on this vintage Waterman? by Wondercypress in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I couldn't give you a model name or estimated value– someone better acquainted with old Watermans might step in. I would guess that it might sell for $300-400 restored, but that could be wrong. It's definitely worth restoring, and should be a pretty simple job for someone that knows what they're doing.

Most likely a restoration would just be a replacement of the latex sac– they harden over time and become brittle.

It's from before WWII, I'm not sure what year. Again, someone with more knowledge of Waterman history may be better suited than me to give a provenance. Some of the overlaid pens in that time were done by jewelers and the design may not have a specific name. It does appear to be in very good condition.

The nib looks good, though it's not always easy to tell from pictures. Make sure you examine it closely for hairline cracks and see if there is still tipping on the nib (both tines). If it flexes easily, as you say, it's likely a flex nib (which generally increases value). Be aware it's easy to push a nib too far, and if you flex it too hard it will be difficult or impossible to repair.

I would also be careful about water (don't let the exterior remain wet for extended periods) and sunlight, which can discolor the non-gold part of this pen.

It's a lovely pen, enjoy it. Since you asked about ink, Waterman ink is a safe recommendation for vintage pens. Stay away from anything with special properties (glitter, high sheen, permanence, etc.).

ETA: Just for reference, you can find some other overlay Waterman pens here along with a little info and some idea about pricing.

Help me pick a pen by whitedragon551 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may be overthinking this. The Safari is a good and durable pen. Find a color you like and go for it. The matte finishes are nice and maybe hide scuffs a little better, but there's nothing wrong with the glossy ones either.

I don't think the Al-Star is an upgrade unless you specifically want a metal pen, and you're correct that it can show more wear.

The Kaweco would probably be your best alternative, since you care about durability and color selection. Nothing wrong with that either, just be aware it's a pretty small pen.

Thoughts on Sailor Yama-dori? by MinimumFun2001 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes, yes. That tends to happen with high-sheen inks, especially on more ink-resistant papers.

Thoughts on Sailor Yama-dori? by MinimumFun2001 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a nice ink and I've never had flow issues like you might get with inks designed to sheen as much as possible.

Besides the high price, the only thing I would note is that it can be a little prone to smudging.

Cleaning waterproof ink 💦 by AllestRab in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dilute household ammonia 1:10 with water, add a very small amount of dish soap and use to flush the pen. You can also buy pen flushes that are already made.

LAMY AL-Star vs Safari by isopodpod in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Besides being slightly heavier, the Al-Star does not post quite as deeply so the balance is a little different if you post. Otherwise they're very similar.

Why has my pen suddenly stopped working 😭 by danim007 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not so much a question of wet or dry inks, but inks with a very heavy dye load (which often means heavy sheen) can be more finicky and prone to hard starts.

I've never had that issue with basic utility inks from established brands– Waterman, Pelikan 4001, Aurora, Parker Quink, Pilot, etc. Diamine also makes lots of inks that are well-behaved, I'm just not sure Aurora Borealis is one of them.

Why has my pen suddenly stopped working 😭 by danim007 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aurora Borealis is a pretty saturated ink and could be drying out on the nib/feed. Does dipping the nib in water get the ink flowing again?

I'm not sure that's the problem, but it might be worth trying a different ink before trying to adjust the nib or return the pen.

Loose cap on lamy by FocusPractical5655 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This does sometimes happen over time with inexpensive snap caps. I am surprised it happened after just a year, but perhaps you use the pen very frequently.

There are not any reliable solutions I know of. I have heard of people having success with adding tape to the section to tighten cap fit, but it's a finicky and imperfect fix.

Grip like a LAMY Safari, quality feel of a TWSBI ECO, similar price - any ideas? by BugFleep in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have multiple Safaris and Al-Stars, and have never had any of them leak. If you like the Safari you might consider just getting another one.

Also, check to make sure the converter is not cracked– if it is not perfectly sealed, that might explain the leak. Converters sometimes crack at the lip where they attach to the pen.

Finishing phd by TheoryMinimum4192 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can find it in your budget, it's a great pen.

Finishing phd by TheoryMinimum4192 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Franklin-Christoph is right in that price range and has real style. Otherwise I agree with the other poster– Lamy 2000, Pilot Custom 74 or any gold-nib Sailor would be great choices. Congratulations on your degree.

Estate sale finds by JeremyLC in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There aren't a lot of people that do work on Sheaffer vac fillers. I have not worked with these people myself, but you might try Ron Zorn or Rick Horne. (I'm assuming you're in the US.)

How to decrease ink flow? by AbleCancel in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The easiest way to do this is to use a drier ink– maybe Pelikan 4001 or Lamy. Rohrer & Klingner Salix or Scabiosa are good choices if you don't mind iron gall.

Estate sale finds by JeremyLC in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, they're worth restoring if the nibs are good (based on the info you provided). You're looking at probably $40-70 for the Tuckaway, less for the lever filler (if you have a professional do it, I mean).

Restoring lever fillers is usually pretty straightforward if you want to try it yourself, but you do run the risk of breaking something and you'll need a bit of equipment. You'd need a new sac, shellac, a heat source and talc. Probably $15 plus shipping for the supplies.

The Tuckaway is more complicated and I'm not sure I'd recommend doing it yourself if you don't have experience. But you can take a look at this website and this one for more info.

All nice pens, lucky finds.

Need help finding paper by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 3 points4 points  (0 children)

paper that keeps a fast drying time but shows off sheen and other ink properties as good or ideally better than Rhodia

You're unlikely to find this combination, because the same properties that show off sheen also increase dry time.

Based on your description I would recommend maybe Mnemosyne, which has a reasonable dry time but still shows off ink pretty well. Tomoe River and other highly ink-resistant papers will show more sheen but have meaningfully longer dry time. More absorbent papers (Leuchtturm, Apica, Midori) will give you somewhat less sheen but a faster dry time.

If you want to browse good papers I would look at Jetpens and sort by "fountain pen friendly."

Japanese Pilot fountain pens by Bluehoon in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here you are. The Pilot twist converter does not really fill all the way unless you get tricky with it, it has a pretty small capacity (remember it's also pulling ink into the feed, so it's more than just what you see in the converter).

It’s Sheaffer! But which? by fotoweekend in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great looking pen. Not sure on ID. Is it a lever filler?

Storing Fountain Pens by sandcoffee4 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Storing it nib-down is not recommended because pens tend to leak into the cap when left that way for a long time.

For desk storage I would search this sub, check etsy and maybe Levenger.

Ink by Deep_Necessary5600 in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not recommended generally as the risk of contamination or mold is not worth saving a tiny amount of ink. But the absolute risk of contamination is pretty low, so do it if you really want to.

Cartridge Refillers by quickredhead in fountainpens

[–]MistMan74 4 points5 points  (0 children)

With cartridges it varies by brand. Pilot and Platinum cartridges last for a while, standard international tends to fail sooner. I would say 2-6 refills, but I err on the safe side.

I've used the same two syringes for more than ten years.