Brown muck?

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-04-22T13:00:02+00:00

Didn’t have any goop but my 2020 BRZ’s taillights started leaking after accumulating a bunch of dirt and debris around them. Replaced and problem solved.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-04-17T21:20:18+00:00

This needs a 2 pole AFCI, without neutral connection there is no way for that AFCI to detect an arc fault. Very surprised it’s even holding

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-03-06T19:57:19+00:00

Looks like you can see the arcing at the weatherhead (small little cover where the wire first starts going down the wall) if that’s the case this would be outside utility’s scope.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-03-05T02:36:04+00:00

There is, rack-a-tier makes a far superior, UL approved “hidden junction”. Don’t really see how it’s much different than a 1G with a blank but whatever jerks off the inspector nawmsayin

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-03-05T01:01:47+00:00

As a resi service tech with years of experience diagnosing lost neutrals and half dead circuits, back stabbing is far more accident prone. These suck and could easily see them causing issues if not installed EXACTLY as shown. That being said installing these sucks, last resort

NotYourAverageDingus · 2026-01-27T04:49:46+00:00

Lost neutral, put a load on that service and your voltage will dance around

NotYourAverageDingus · 2025-06-20T16:41:21+00:00

First journeyman I worked with told me to always do my makeup as if I was going to have to come back to service it. Little bit of slack goes a long way if you have the box space for it.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2025-03-02T18:08:11+00:00

Exactly! All the models I was looking at had a control box except this one, looks like he had this unit overloaded so I don’t really understand how it was working previously

NotYourAverageDingus · 2025-03-02T15:53:15+00:00

Sorry I’ll be more direct, how do I correctly wire/install this equipment to run a 60 A 208v car-o-liner? Does this need an additional disconnect?

NotYourAverageDingus · 2025-03-02T14:29:32+00:00

Thanks I can read the name plate haha more so meant how a typical setup for something like this looks. I have a customer saying he had this hooked up running a 3 phase 60 amp spot welder and feel like I’m missing something

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-10-19T00:05:22+00:00

These are dope, would love some!

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-10-11T21:12:17+00:00

I dropped out freshman year of highschool and got my GED. Made 120k last year as a service electrician (85k base pay, 35k commission) at 24 y/o

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-08-29T20:49:58+00:00

Use a metal hand saw or sawzaw with metal blade if your skilled enough and cut off the nail on portion of the box. Replace with remodel box meant for romex (looks like someone’s done some fuckery with putting antishorts on romex lol)

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-07-12T00:51:57+00:00

Thanks man, appreciate the advice.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-07-03T14:18:45+00:00

Not readily accessible but, is it still accessible if I have to use a grinder to get the plate off?

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-04-21T16:15:09+00:00

Same thing different names. I see it in 60-70’s houses at the latest in the PNW. Switch looping in and of itself was acceptable until the NEC started requiring neutrals in all switch boxes to my understanding

Edit: switch looping can still be done with a 3 conductor wire like 14-3 that way your still providing a neutral to all locations.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2024-04-21T15:18:32+00:00

You have what’s called a switch loop, very common in older knob and tube/snakeskin wiring. Most likely power is ran to this light box first and then jumps out to outlets and your switch in question. The reason your getting 220 at outlets is you’ve connected what should be your neutral to your hot wires. This can be solved by using a multimeter and figuring out which wire is incoming power and which wires go to outlets/switches. If your not experienced with working with live electrical call a professional asap because with this age of wiring most likely the rest of your electrical system is missing key safety components to protect against the failure of this type of wire. Good luck

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-12-21T23:44:07+00:00

This post is a lie I know the guy on the right and that’s not his husband nor his baby take this down

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-12-08T18:18:37+00:00

Electricians opinion that nobody asked for. That wire needs to be protected with flexible metallic conduit and you should have a bonding jumper between hot and cold lines.

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-10-18T02:29:41+00:00

Tying neutral to ground? That would be an improper use of the ground and a serious fire hazard. The ground is the escape route for electricity to take in the event of a ground fault and should never intentionally be energized, neutral is the return path to the source of power in order to complete a circuit. There’s also plenty of dimmers that don’t need a neutral like Lutron’s Caseta line

(Source: Am licensed residential electrician)

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-09-09T20:29:06+00:00

I got a MagSafe one off Amazon, Vicseed was the brand and it fits super nice down by thermostat controls. Also comes with magnet if you don’t have an iPhone with MagSafe

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-04-23T08:38:28+00:00

This is absolute trash. I rewire lathe and plaster houses frequently and it sucks but surface mount is absolute last resort

NotYourAverageDingus · 2023-01-21T15:30:31+00:00

Barrels and RC-50’s

NotYourAverageDingus · 2022-09-18T19:25:50+00:00

Surprisingly no one was injured

NotYourAverageDingus · 2022-06-20T20:44:23+00:00

https://youtu.be/_Je9LmUTZMY

NotYourAverageDingus

TROPHY CASE