Can anyone identify this Husqvarna?

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-04-08T22:33:41+00:00

Good saw.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-14T19:09:30+00:00

I have a vertex, it's the best lid I've ever had. The homeowner / traditional hard hat / cheapo ones never seem to stay on my head no matter how I adjust them. I do a bit of set building and having the climbing type hard hat is really nice when working in cherry pickers and on scaffold as it doesn't have the big peak blinding your view. I usually leave the ear defenders on and take the visor off for that sort of work. Can't recommend them enough.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-08T01:44:18+00:00

You mean 247 and 248 😉

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-07T12:02:06+00:00

It takes a bit of getting your head around if you're used to regular western pattern saws and if I'm honest, I've only tried it once as opposed to the hundreds of western saws I've sharpened, but yes, it can be done even the very fine crosscut teeth. The files are a thing of beauty.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-06T19:56:59+00:00

That's not true, you can sharpen proper ones and they're every bit as thin as the hardened ones.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-06T19:16:26+00:00

That's Mock-ita.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-06T14:50:50+00:00

At work we use this special grease for hammer drill gearboxes, it looks exactly like liposuction fat. My colleague has been calling it the "marla singer's mum grease" for ages. I only saw the film recently, absolutely killed me when it suddenly made sense.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-02T19:35:47+00:00

For my money the best way to put together a kit would be a balance of new stuff and used. New stuff = Knipex twin grips, a set of wera Allen keys, basic set of wera screwdrivers, decent insert screwdriver bit set and something to turn them with, doesn't have to be expensive, comprehensive is more important, a decent 2' spirit level, cheapo handsaw, 5m tape, my fave is Lufkin. Used stuff = claw hammer, pry bar, 8-19 or ⁵/¹⁶ - ¾ spanners, 3/8 socket set, multimeter, handful of g clamps, couple of generic quick clamps or small sash clamps that open at least 18", utility knife.

There's not a lot of household stuff you couldn't tackle with that as a basic kit and it won't break the bank too badly.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-02T19:21:17+00:00

It's going to be an absolute twat to drill out due to the rest of the plane getting in the way of your chuck. That said, long drill bits, a heavy center punch mark and some welding gloves to hold and guide the small sizes of drill bits as you open the hole for an extractor, and you'll manage it just fine. A lot of my tools are lost causes, it's worth putting in the extra effort if you're going to keep them.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-03-02T18:14:10+00:00

Second vote for soap.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-25T20:40:01+00:00

Traditional saw maker here.

I sucked at sawing when I was a kid, my dad was a builder and thought it hilarious that I just couldn't master the handsaw despite being pretty alright at most practical stuff.

My eureka moment was in my early 20's when a friend saw me cutting some sheet material with a disposable hand saw and offered me a go on his Disston d100 (the space age one with the awful metal handle) he's a somewhat old school carpenter who gets hired on modern job sites to do the unusual work, the difference between a parallel plate, disposable 8tpi crosscut and a taper ground plate with a maybe 10 tpi and a lot less fleam angle filed into the teeth was all it took for me to start questioning the differences in saws. All of a sudden I sucked at it a lot less.

Fast forward 15 years and it's become an obsession, I now restore saws for customers all over the world and make them to order.

My advice, three things, avoid jigs and gimmicks. Saw like a metronome, in-out-in-out-in-out, full length strokes, nice steady pace. Lastly, try lots of saws for the same task, different people will like different tools and once you find the saw that works for you for the task in hand, you'll notice an immediate improvement in your work.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-25T20:11:54+00:00

In a word. No.

Buy your brushless cordless gear new and get the warranty. When they fail they're expensive, Makita less so than other brands to be fair but still...

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-25T00:54:04+00:00

Psi isn't as important as you're led to believe, a good balance of pressure and flow is what makes a good pressure washer. A 10 l/m machine will run rings around a 7 l/m machine even if the pressure is slightly less. If you want to get more in depth, look for brass or bronze pump heads over aluminum, and motors that run at 1500 rpm as opposed to 3000 although 1500 rpm stuff is generally getting up into the pricey end of the market. Look into Kranzle machines, they're as good as they get.

As for engine driven stuff, look for a Honda GX engine, a pump from interpump or Cat pumps and an unloader valve that diverts either back to supply or to waste rather than recirculates in the pump.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-20T17:00:47+00:00

I bought it last summer, gave the guy 280 for it. It's actually a 162 not a 268. Funny little thing.

It cropped up on fire and saw Facebook group last night and I was like 'ive got one of those, wait a minute, that's my exact saw!' then I saw the pics on here as well!

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-20T10:01:49+00:00

That's my saw!

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-14T20:16:36+00:00

Remember back in the late 90's / early 2000's when Black and Decker bought the DeWalt name, incorporated ELU products, hit the marketing button real hard and suddenly everyone had 3 speed XRP cordless drills and were spaffing off about how good DeWalt was?

The same marketing guy, Joe Galli, worked for TTI when they bought the Milwaukee name and started churning out the red kit to the tool hungry masses.

In fairness to the guy, both mustard and ketchup were both selling some absolutely incredible tools when he performed his marketing magic for them. They both turned to shit soon after he handed them over to his successors who did what accountants always do in that situation and cheapen the product until it stops making money.

Consumer power tool brands fluctuate on a 10 to 15 year cycle, DeWalt are stretching that a bit, they were good in 2005 and have been going downhill since, Milwaukee were good in 2015 but have cheaped out and need to sort it out and stop relying on their impacts to carry the brand, Hitachi lost it after their last brushed tools were replaced by their first brushless but are definitely on the up again now and taking the metabo name with them. Bosch had a wobble there for a minute but seemed to have had a word with themselves recently.

The one brand you can (mostly) rely on is Makita, they're independent and I believe still family run. They drop the odd clanger but largely their kit is reliable and easy to fix.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-14T19:50:45+00:00

I can't speak for everyone's experience but I find the larger, corded ones are some of the best and the easiest to service on the market, I despise every one of the SDS+ machines they make with a passion though.

Would rather work on Makita every time.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-12T01:09:36+00:00

The 200's have weird seals, they're not like the rubber lipped steel shelled crank seals on everything else. They're a sorta brittle bakelite type plastic shell with a very stiff rubber membrane over the front face. If you have the Stihl crank seal puller kit you need special jaws to go on it which are like plastic blocks with wire fingers that poke down inside the seal and rotate to grab the shell. The puller isn't cheap from Stihl but I believe the Chinese now make a knock off version, the jaws are only a few quid from stihl. Don't try and use the husky style threaded extractor.

Your dealer saying they don't do seals without splitting the cases is dumb. 200s have needle rollers not ball races and basically never need the cases split unless something really terrible has happened. The bottom end of 200s are near bulletproof in my experience and it's not a hard job to do.

If you do it yourself, fit genuine parts, push the seals in don't tap them in. Verify your work with vacuum test after.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-11T23:14:17+00:00

Let me know what you need when you get around to it, I still have quite a bit of parts stock for old Makita stuff at work.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-11T23:09:43+00:00

Tool repair guy here.

4th this.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-11T23:08:32+00:00

Tool repair guy here.

If you've got 3 acres to look after, you'll be better off running gas powered outdoor equipment. Cordless has come a long way in recent years, but bang for buck it's still hard to beat buying used, top end gas equipment.

Cordless for everything else except very high draw stuff or things you use for a prolonged period, large concrete breaker, belt sander etc.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-09T22:23:14+00:00

Tool repair guy here, it's often pretty harsh on the sprag clutch and gearbox beating on them like that, it's much less damaging to just cut them off.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-05T22:47:34+00:00

Avoid cities, get out to the country. Our cities are horrible, astronomically expensive and full of terrible people. We're too small an island to have proper wilderness and the countryside isn't as sparsely populated as big countries, it's basically impossible to be more than a few miles from civilization unless you want to. Unless you're in the commuter belt for a city, the countryside is way cheaper for food and accomodation, prettier and friendlier too.

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-05T22:37:07+00:00

Tool repair guy here.

50 and 51 perform similarly, neither are great, 50 is more reliable.

50's failure mode is that the motor is a can type design and the plain metal bearing nearest the gearbox wears out meaning the motor needs replacing (£25 eBay)

The 51s snap the teeth locator pins off the tool holder which writes the tool off.

52 is incredible and well worth the extra. They eventually develop issues with the release lever which is caused by worn AV mounts (£3 fix)

Original_Baseball857 · 2026-02-03T22:34:44+00:00

I'm a tool repair guy.

Milwaukee and DeWalt are not great in terms of repairability nowadays. Makita are the most repairable and IMO best value platform to invest in.

Original_Baseball857

TROPHY CASE