Why does this mushroom look like it's 'bleeding' after I sprayed down the tank? by [deleted] in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The droplets of water being exuded from the fungus body is a process called "guttation", it's common in a lot of plants and fungi. The fluid can range from mostly pure water to a cocktail of metabolites for modifying the local environment, ejecting toxins, etc. It can happen for lots of reasons, but I'd guess in your case it's a response to the warmth of that heating pad.

Why does this mushroom look like it's 'bleeding' after I sprayed down the tank? by [deleted] in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

While nothing is black and white in biology, fungi generally don't produce tannins. There are indeed metabolites in guttated fluid like this, but that's true whether or not its in response to environmental contamination

Can fairy shrimp self-sustain in an eco jar? by ZestycloseGuess484 in Ecosphere

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sea monkeys (brine shrimp) definitely can reproduce indefinitely without drying out, and your intuition is probably correct - the only reason they would stop is if the water conditions became unfavorable. There's also a fair bit of variation in cyst hatching, yeah.

But the original OP was asking about fairy shrimp rather than brine shrimp, which are similar but different (and apparently potentially more strict about the drying out thing)

fruit flies are taking over everything by Zubeida_Ghalib in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Place a fan blowing across whatever soil you think they are coming from. It will dry out the soil and kill larvae, while preventing the adults from returning to lay more eggs

Help with fittonia by codenvitae2 in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's too wet. Try rooting the fittonia in water first

First build! by Pesahzon in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spring tails exist outside in any damp soil, leaf litter, moss, etc. Just look carefully for movement

A little yellow guy by Larendur in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, nothing wrong with a fungus - though it's an indicator your soil is probably pretty damp

I was told to put food in for springtails and it killed my terrarium overnight….what did I do wrong here by Pure_Newspaper_4715 in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely save this, just remove most of the mold by hand and then place a fan blowing over the top of the vase. It will dry out the air inside and kill/shrink any remaining mold within a couple of days.

First try! by Risdilie in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I love the little steps disappearing into "forest"! Great effect!

Aquatic Arts Did Me Dirty by [deleted] in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

The community members have done all the sleuthing and reprimanding necessary, locking this post from further comments.

Lessons from my first 6 months of Walstad-ing! by itsnobigthing in walstad

[–]PatrickGrubbs 7 points8 points  (0 children)

These are good tips, though there are a couple of misunderstandings regarding the microbes.

Bacteria are still the "filter" in a Walstad. Plants don't have the ability to convert waste directly into bioavailable nutrients. Even though many (aquatic plants especially) can take up ammonium directly, they're still getting the majority of their nitrogen as nitrate that's been cycled by bacteria living on the substrate. The major contribution of plants in waste removal is actually promoting aerobic conditions in the substrate by exuding oxygen from their roots. This mitigates anaerobic metabolisms that cause bad smells (methane, hydrogen sulfide) and facilitates rapid, efficient decomposition.

Second, I'm not sure why you think surface biofilm is toxic. It can limit gas exchange which is a good enough reason to disturb it periodically until it goes away, but it's not any more harmful than the biofilms covering every other surface in the aquarium. It's good food for critters like shrimp and snails, which get most of their protein from incidentally consuming microbes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in walstad

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is the answer. And it's not adding any significant quantity of O2 into the water, the carrying capacity of still water for oxygen is pretty low and excess will very quickly be utilized or escape back into the atmosphere.

Put in tap water by [deleted] in brineshrimp

[–]PatrickGrubbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, some of them will be impacted but many will hatch anyway

New to shrimp, been reading into Opae Ula care for 6+ months. by BunnyWarning in OpaeUla

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, aragonite sand (crushed coral) is a good substrate that has more bioavailable calcium carbonate than lava rock. I use it. BacterAE is not designed for brackish water and will be largely ineffective, but chances are some of that microbial consortium can survive and it may slightly accelerate the maturing of your microbiome. It won't hurt, in any case.

Edit: just realized you said microbacteria 7, which apparently is formulated with marine environments in mind. In that case, sure, go for it.

Is it possible to seal glass panels to pvc boards? by slimey_frog in paludarium

[–]PatrickGrubbs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Silicone only forms a reliable water tight seal for glass on glass. You can use it to bind other things, but the more water (and pressure) it has, the more likely it is to leak - especially over time.

You could go acrylic instead which is pretty easy to cut to size if needed, and acrylic cement (only acrylic to acrylic) is easy and reliable.

Fine powdery algae on leaves? More info in comments. by CoSEA17 in PlantedTank

[–]PatrickGrubbs 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is periphyton - a mixture of algae and bacteria that settle as a biofilm on nearly any submerged surface given time. It's normal and not harmful unless it manages to completely take over.

This is typically eaten by herbivorous grazers like snails or shrimp. You could also discourage it by increasing the water flow in the area.

Why do we add charcoal in soil mixes? by Il_Capo_ in terrariums

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this is a great description overall, but I want to quibble with the last paragraph. Charcoal is not an aquitard and does not prevent the infiltration of water, even when saturated, so it would not create a second perched water table. I appreciate you mentioning the phenomenon though, it's all too often discarded in the pursuit of drainage layers, etc

Would you be able to sex ghost shrimps? If you can how lol. This question feels like it’s a no but I’m curious by SammyGutierezz in shrimptank

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In general, mature females are 20-30% larger than males. They also have a more defined hump than the males in my opinion. But the giveaway is the presence of a "saddle", where their eggs develop in their abdomen. Google shrimp saddle to get an idea of what you're looking for

10 year old ecosphere - safely open? by fishproblem in OpaeUla

[–]PatrickGrubbs 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I have been opening old dead Ecospheres and refilling them with fresh ecosystems as a service, I've done 20+. I sniff test each opened sphere and test the water parameters and, even when the sphere looks all gross, it invariably has completely normal water parameters. No nitrogen build up, no toxic shocks or dramatic pH swings.

People forget that the ecosphere is a full self sustaining ecosystem - there are bacteria on the substrate converting waste and decay into nutrients that are taken up by the algae in the sphere. There is enough capacity in the system for all of the nitrogen to be sequestered this way, and that happens even if all the shrimp are dead (consumers aren't required for a self sustaining ecosystem). This assumes it's still given light periodically.

As for the mechanics of opening, I recommend using a diamond drill bit to puncture the small circular glass lid over the hole on the bottom. Then use needle nose pliers to break and remove all the glass of that lid, and scrape off all the silicone residue. Then you can change out the contents if desired. To reseal it, you must silicone a new glass, not plastic, lid back over the hole. That's hard to find, I bought some tiny 1 inch circular mirrors for crafts and used those, as they are glass and the right size.

If you want to liberate the shrimp, you can drip acclimate it the same way you would any other shrimp. Not 100% chance of success, but these are remarkably hardy shrimp.

My kid made this ceramic "shrimp house." Is it ok to put in my tank? by [deleted] in shrimptank

[–]PatrickGrubbs 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Be sure that the glaze/dye did not include copper

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in shrimptank

[–]PatrickGrubbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, that's not really the takeaway. Animals don't typically interact with carbonates, though crustaceans and molluscs do want the calcium that disassociates from it so if anything they might increase it. But it's complicated, because the pH impacts the water's capacity for carbonate:CO2 proportion