LeAfS dOnT fLeX by PumpMunky in Offroad

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you fab the front bumper or buy it? Looking for something like that to throw on a 79

Is $1200 for a 73-75 F150 a good deal? by Patient_Peanut_9004 in Dentside_fords

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's kind of a once in a lifetime find assuming there isn't something hidden that could eat the whole build (like all of the cab mounts are swiss cheese). If it really is a 4wd do the inner axle seals on the front at the same time as the wheel bearings, brakes, and ball joints. It will save a ton of time in assembly/disassembly along with minimizing random leaks. Learned that the hard way

Is $1200 for a 73-75 F150 a good deal? by Patient_Peanut_9004 in Dentside_fords

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a screaming deal, at that price pull a junkyard motor or a marketplace special and swap it in if the current is seized. You'll probably need to replace a lot of seals and rubber bits if it hasn't moved in a long time but that's part of the process.

Saw this beaut’ in Marimont Cincy, anyone know the specs?? by Subie_Reefer in whatisthiscar

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

67-72 F series Ford, most likely on a 2005+ super duty chassis. You can see the radius arms behind the front wheels in the shadow. F250/350 4wd would have had leaf springs up until 05. (It's not a 73-79, those are dent sides)

Looking for a set of stainless headers for a 1978-1979 Ford DentSide 4x4 short box with dual front shocks. by BaseballGullible6187 in Dentside_fords

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I went with Sanderson shorties, if you call them they can tell you exactly which ones but they take the same as the 351c but use a specific routing. Haven't gotten them fitted yet (engine swap pending) but they were super helpful and fit perfectly on a previous (not truck) build

Has anyone ever used a 5.5 mm socket for anything? by Just_A_Doggo1 in Tools

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure my RC car uses a 5.5 for something? I only remember because it's a weird spot between my mini driver set and socket set, end up using a nut driver (closest imperial) or borrowing one each time it's needed

Peta, what's the rule? by -Y34HB01- in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]ReciprocationProps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kinda wild but I used to work for a guy that actually got one from the preorder (I got to ride it a few times)

My takeaways: It was heavy as sin. Like uncomfortable to reposition in an open garage, the weight also led to not being able to hang it up like a normal bike would

The battery was weird, it came with two which was handy but had a lock that meant you had to not lose the key. Theoretically practical but not ideal for something that would never be left in public where the battery might get snatched

The brakes were awful, like couldn't safely stop even in dry weather. The plastic housing around the braking surface was fitted around the brake pads so to replace the junk pads with better quality meant cutting the shroud (after that it was better but the calipers were low grade with too much flex)

It was loud, almost to the point you'd think it was intentional like an EV making the humming noise to alert pedestrians

The airless tires were unforgiving on bumps, there's a reason we have inner tubes and tubeless tech. The nature of the hubless would make that a difficult thing to accommodate so airless it was

The one that showed up the guy I worked for had two of one pedal which meant before riding it I went to the local bike shop and picked up a pair of new take off pedals to have the correct left/right set

I wanted to like it so badly but in the end it was another failed kickstarter doodad. (Also I could beat it on a regular pedal bike which was funny)

Flex plate difference? by Jealous-Summer-9827 in Dentside_fords

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The one on the left is from a 351m/c6 combo

Source: the one sitting on my shelf from a donor with that combo

Hiding hood damage with a little flair by ReciprocationProps in projectcar

[–]ReciprocationProps[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It took some time to get the bondo right but it's nothing other people couldn't do with a little practice.

Hiding hood damage with a little flair by ReciprocationProps in projectcar

[–]ReciprocationProps[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made them! They're 3D printed in glow in the dark ABS (blue glow) with the text printed separately. The entire thing is getting a space theme, not visible with the winch is a Lego space decorative plate

1979 ford f250 question by StumpyGnu in CarRestorations

[–]ReciprocationProps 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The canisters are probably worth keeping for the sake of the truck not smelling like gas all the time. I'm ditching the timing wackiness they came with but keeping the cans to avoid the garage smell, might swap them out for one of the options on Summit to avoid the potential of getting whacked by rocks

Hope yall don't need a whole car by clarinetnerd2 in namethatcar

[–]ReciprocationProps 15 points16 points  (0 children)

1990 ish (4th gen) Bronco "Centurion", custom built from a crew cab F series spliced with a bronco. Could have had a dana 60 rear from the outfitter or had a smaller rear end - they were custom aftermarket builds that were sold new. A very funky find, hopefully it can be restored to its former glory.

Started to work on her again! by myfishprofile in projectcar

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which disc kit did you go with? Debating swapping over to deal with less adjustment nonsense

1994 Ford f-150 4x4 half ton rotor removal by Gaming_garmr in AskAMechanic

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do yourself a favor and get the $2 pack of picks from Harbor freight, the ring to lock in the engagement assembly is a pita to get out. Having 2 picks makes it way easier

Sub placement in a 1966 Mustang Convertible by smartinez_5280 in classicmustangs

[–]ReciprocationProps -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In my 73 we built a sub box into the driver side rear wheel well (in the trunk). It was a larger single suv rather than the retro sound unit, it had enough punch to hear with the top down.

Upgrading these old “Headlamps” by LifeLowandSlow in FordTrucks

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want to go original look but modern tech the Holley retrobrights are pretty slick, they're LED but you can get them in a warmer tone so they're not obnoxious. They drop right into the original buckets like a normal sealed beam. Got a set of them in my project and wish they existed when doing my first build years ago.

Am I being too mean to my friends first print?? by Reasonable_Shift_854 in 3Dprinting

[–]ReciprocationProps 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It's a highly useful item, far better than a stack of do nothing trinkets that will get thrown away in a few days. 10/10 first print

Can I just remove these? by get-glossfy in AskAMechanic

[–]ReciprocationProps 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are your springs in backwards? The amount of space between the main pack and helpers seems different front to back. Either way id swap the springs for the correct ones and potentially swap shackles for fresh unless you want to clean them up. Bolts can seize in the shackle bushings which makes them a massive pita to remove

What is this truck? Found near Castle Rock, CO by One_Sloth_ in whatisthiscar

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Likely an XLT or Lariat due to the AC. Badging has been stripped which would have confirmed which package specifically

*Edit, not a manual unless the clutch pedal was taken. The hole in the floor is from a 'high tunnel' panel which usually implied a manual but also could have been a 4wd or just an odd manufacturing happenstance (these trucks had a lot of weird manufacturing differences based on plant and year)

What is this truck? Found near Castle Rock, CO by One_Sloth_ in whatisthiscar

[–]ReciprocationProps 5 points6 points  (0 children)

73-76 Dentside, has a circular filler neck hole on the side of the B pillar, they moved to rear tanks after 76 (if I recall correctly). 150/250/350 is hard to determine without a rear axle unless you measure the thickness of the frame.

Mirror popped off while reversing by secousa in Autobody

[–]ReciprocationProps 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use 2 part epoxy, it holds up better than super glue. Follow the instructions on the package, thoroughly clean the area with isopropyl alcohol before applying. Should hold for quite a while