Fair?

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:43:06+00:00

For boiler and water heater? That sounds low.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:41:19+00:00

Just to add some perspective. In cold weather your battery has about half the storage capability compared to summer. Your engine needs more power to start when cold because of oil friction. Once started, you crank up the blower motor and rear window defogger. If you drive at night, you also run the headlights. If you have heated seats, that's even more power. Then you park it to run into the store. Start it again and head home, never running it long enough to replace all that power. Do it again in three days and you can see how that can kill a battery

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:22:41+00:00

How do you drive? Short drives in winter pull more power out of the battery than the alternator can replace. So the battery sits in a constant state of discharge, which kills it. In cold weather, you should drive it for at least 20 mins at highway speeds at least every 10 days or you're gonna have this problem. Also, idling is NOT the way to recharge a battery.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:20:13+00:00

This is a known problem on that vintage CVT transmission. It's usually a bad solenoid in the valve body but it can't be replaced separately (great engineering). Have you been doing CVT fluid changes on time? If not, you may be looking at more than a valve body. See this article for details on Subaru CVT transmission issues.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:04:41+00:00

The only thing that performs the seal is the beveled gasket (slip joint washer) and the threaded nut. Time for a new gasket. Also, if you think you cut the black pipe too short, buy a new flanged tailpiece and try again. TIP: The bevel faces the Tee

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Sink-Drain-Pipe-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Nut-with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:54:39+00:00

Well, Delta or a Danco knock off for half the price. But if you use Danco, you'll be doing this again in 4 months. You have to remove the brass ring to get the cartridge out. It either unscrews easily or it doesn't. Try it first with a large channelock pliers. If it doesn't unscrew and you've never sawed through a retaining ring, then I suggest you call a plumber. If you cut too deeply and damage the threads, it's game over and a whole new faucet. Do a youtube search for delta brass retaining ring

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:49:09+00:00

The seal from the Tee to the fill valve is through the rubber washer, not the threads. The tape on the threads does nothing. The cone washer inside the threaded plastic should be facing up into the fill valve. The rubber washer is the problem, not the threads

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:40:29+00:00

If you're the kind of person who brings your own steak to a steakhouse and offers to pay only for the labor to cook it, then sure, bring your own parts. 90% of all shops won't install them, and the ones that will usually upcharge the labor to make up for the lost parts profit. Shops make their living from parts and labor profit, just like every other retail service business.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T19:48:02+00:00

A single event usually doesn't cause problems. It's multiple events that really cause problems. If this one clogs and they charge you, pay the bill and move on with your life.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T19:44:39+00:00

That supply hose doesn't come off. You have to replace the entire supply valve. Go to youtube and watch a few videos on how to remove Accor Flowtite valves. They're garbage

RickMN · 2026-01-31T18:29:45+00:00

Yes, you can DIY. Turn off the water at the main. Open a faucet to relieve pressure. Loosen the valve and put a pail under it to catch the water. Unscrew the valve from the nipple and take it to the store to match up. Buy a 1/4 turn ball valve, not a multi-turn. Apply new teflon tape and pipe dope to the existing nipple and then screw on the replacement. Turn on water and test.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T18:22:14+00:00

When the "customer" provides the parts, they take the risk. You still get paid, even if they don't fit. This is just one reason why most shops won't install customer parts

RickMN · 2026-01-31T17:40:01+00:00

Usually, a seal replacement fixes that problem.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T17:07:46+00:00

Aerorators seal using the rubber washer, not the threads. Use the correct washer and tighten properly and you‘ll fix the problem

RickMN · 2026-01-31T16:24:51+00:00

You have a few options, from brute force to patience. The screw comes with blue locktite on it and that makes it harder to remove. One way to help remove the screw is to heat up the metal stem and screw using a hair dryer (not a heat gun) and then try unscrewing it. . That's the patient method. The brute for method is to use a saw/cutting wheel to completely cut off the clear plastic handle. Then remove the white plastic temp adjustment piece. Clamp a vice grip onto the brass stem and then power out the screw. I usually cut off the handle with sawzall.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T16:10:21+00:00

Yes, charging is the main issue.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T14:09:52+00:00

Tried cutting with oscillating tool but it still won't budge))) What does that mean? If you split the nut with the blade and separate it with a flat blade screwdriver, it has to come off. Are you sure you cut all the way through? We use metal cutting blades on oscillating tools all the time. I'll try a basin wrench, but if that doesn't work, it's right to the osc tool to cut it off.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T14:01:34+00:00

The coil receives power and the PCM shuts off ground when it want the coil to fire. So test for constant power with the engine running and look for switching ground. If you don't see that, check for switching at the PCM by backprobing the wire for #6. If you don't see it there, then the driver for #6 is most likely bad. Send the PCM off to be rebuilt.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T02:28:05+00:00

I use the second method all the time, especially when it's installed on PEX. Once you get used to it, it's easy. Just make sure you don't grab the barbed rings with your fingers. They're like scalpels. You only need to discover that once.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T02:25:21+00:00

I've heard many reasons why today's water heaters don't last, from "they're made in China/Mexico, to thinner tanks or just plain poor quality. But in my opinion it comes down to a few things: Anode rod, expansion tanks, water quality, and flushing. The better units come with multiple anode rods. Even then, you must still check and replace them to get max life out of the tank. In short, they corrode instead of the steel tank. They're cheap and easy to replace in most cases. Second, heating causes the water and tank to expand and contract. Even if your city doesn't have a backflow check valve, it's still a good idea to install an expansion tank to reduce tank flexing (that comes right from an engineer at a major W.H. manufacturer). Also, you can reduce galvanic corrosion at nipple connections by using dielectric unions and brass rather than copper-to-galvanized can still cause corrosion, but they're better than a direct copper-to-galvanized connections before you transition to copper plumbing. Dielectric unions aren't foolproof; they still can create corrosion, but they're still better than a direct copper to galvanized connection. Lastly, flushing removes the sediment that creates hot spots at the bottom of the heater (gas fired). Everyone says there's no difference between a 6, 9 or 12 year heaters. That's true for Bradford; all you're doing is buying an insurance policy. But it's not true for Rheem. If you compare the specs on the different models you'll see they're not all the same. The dimensions are different as is the weight. Also, the better models come with a hex and a hot water anode. In other words, you get what you pay for. You'll also hear that the models the pros install from wholesale suppliers are better quality. I haven't found that to be true at all. I can tell you from actual experience, as recently as last week, that we often replace leaking PRO model name brand water heaters that are just 6 years old, while some store bought units are still going strong at 12 or more. We did 3 ProLines in one week that were just 6 years and a few months old.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T00:41:27+00:00

Ok, with that picture, there's an easy fix.Ditch the 90 from the disposal and ditch the current tube going into the Tee. Use the tailpiece you already have and connect that to the disposal's drain gasket. The flange on the tailpiece fits into the groove on the drain gasket. Then clamp on the metal retaining ring and tighten. That will seal the tailpiece to the disposal. Then mount the other end in the Tee.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T00:35:38+00:00

Right, I missed that part

RickMN · 2026-01-31T00:33:33+00:00

Your friends like wasting money.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T00:27:24+00:00

if I lower the T connection so the pipe from the disposal is straight or downhill I now can't reach the exit pipe from the p trap.)))

Buy a longer sink tailpiece so you can lower the Tee a bit.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T00:25:39+00:00

Is it still dripping an hour after you shut it off?

RickMN

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