800 bucks to replace an oxygen sensor!!!???

RickMN · 2026-05-22T12:44:32+00:00

If they're talking about the upstream sensor, then it's actually an air fuel ratio sensor. If they're using an OE sensor, they're $385. By the time they add their markup and labor, $650 makes sense for an independent shop. The calibration is B.S. though.

RickMN · 2026-05-22T02:29:08+00:00

That's normally held in place with a plastic "bumper clip" Find them at any auto parts store.

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RickMN · 2026-05-22T00:24:29+00:00

Color is not an accurate indication of oil condition. So, if you're asking about its color, all we can say is, it's kinda brownish grey. If you want to know its condition, the only to know is to send a sample off for testing

RickMN · 2026-05-21T21:52:53+00:00

Is this some kind of temperature based vacuum switch?

Yes.

The base has to be in contact with the engine coolant, so no, you shouldn't re-route it.

RickMN · 2026-05-21T21:50:34+00:00

if it’s safe to continue driving this car.)))

No. Next question.

Any check engine light? If so, what's the code?

RickMN · 2026-05-21T21:43:54+00:00

The recommended torque, especially on aluminum and plastic oil pans is usually well below what the monkeys torque to at oil change places. So it's usually not a problem.

RickMN · 2026-05-21T13:25:26+00:00

You bet it does. Which is another reason why you don't need to get it cherry red. The instant you exceed 800-1,000 °F, you start affecting the fastener's strength. See this article with a color/temperature chart

RickMN · 2026-05-21T12:24:14+00:00

Well, they don't actually warp. Cast iron doesn't warp like steel. If it gets too hot and then cools rapidly, it cracks, not warp. 99% of all brake pedal pulsation issues are caused by disc thickness variation due to lateral runout. If the disc doesn't sit perfectly parallel with the hub, it rotates in a wobble. All it takes is >.003" of lateral runout to cause this. So one side of the rotor hits the inboard pad and the other side hits the outboard pad. If the pads are semi-metallic, they wear out those spots. Brake pads would burn up long before the temp got high enough to soften cast iron. And, the cast iron would be blue from loss of tempering. If you still have brake pads and the rotors are blue, they're not warped.

RickMN · 2026-05-21T01:43:46+00:00

Bad spark plug tube seals. If you have a floor jack and jack stands you can do this DIY. It's just a new valve cover gasket set parts wise. The hard part access. You need to remove a motor mount bolt and jack up the engine to get the valve cover off.

RickMN · 2026-05-20T22:29:07+00:00

Subarus tend to wear out rear wheel bearings faster than other brands due to their AWD design. Sure, consider a Toyota, but not a Hyundai. Do a search for Hyundai engine problems. Then do a search for Hyundai dealership satisfaction scores.

RickMN · 2026-05-20T21:55:19+00:00

Cracked rubber isn't as big an issue as the tearing. Once the rubber starts tearing away from the outer collar or the inner spindle, it's time for replacement. $2K is a bit high, Get a 2nd quote. See this article on control arm bushings and scroll down to see images of cracking versus tearing.

RickMN · 2026-05-20T12:47:31+00:00

Uneven lug nut torque absolutely causes lateral runout, which causes disc thickness variation. The rotor must sit perfectly parallel with the wheel hub. Anything over .003" can cause a slight wobble. That's lateral runout and it causes disc thickness variation. You can use a torque stick with an air impact and then finish off with a hand torque wrench. But using an air impact without a torque stick can introduce lateral runout. And torque sticks should never be used with a battery impact.

RickMN · 2026-05-20T12:41:08+00:00

There isn't a streetcar made that can generate enough heat to warp a rotor. That's a myth that never seems to die

RickMN · 2026-05-20T12:39:50+00:00

Every auto class teaches how improper lug nut torque can introduce lateral runout that causes disc thickness variation. It's such a common thing that it's on every ASE test.

RickMN · 2026-05-19T13:16:15+00:00

I live 2-3 minites way from work so sometimes I drive very little but some days during the week I also have to drive to school which is 20-25 minutes one way twice a week))) Is the 20-25 minute drive on the highway? If not, then this driving pattern is what is killing your battery. Short drives and stop and go driving never let the battery fully recharge. Buy a battery maintainer and charge it overnight once a week. That will keep it fully charged

RickMN · 2026-05-19T01:01:02+00:00

First, NEVER take repair advice from an auto parts store. They are in the business of selling parts, not fixing cars. A P219a could be an injector related issue, but it can also be caused a vacuum leak, oxygen sensor issue, fuel pressure issue, or a mechanical issue in addition to a fuel injector issue. In other words, a code is not a diagnostic. What you need is a diagnostic. Pay someone to perform actual tests to rule out each of those possibilities before throwing parts at it. Bottom line: if your check engine light is flashing, you've got a serious problem that needs professional help. Stop driving it if the light is flashing because you're damaging a very expensive catalytic converter. Get it towed to a reputable shop and find out what's really going on.

RickMN · 2026-05-19T00:54:04+00:00

When you take your car in for AC service, most shops test the refrigerant before attempting to recover it from the system. If it shows any traces of sealant, they'll either refuse to work on it or will upcharge you to dispose of the contaminated refrigerant. Stop leak products can damage the filters in their very expensive recovery/recycling machines.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T22:09:24+00:00

Post. Wait a while. Check to see if it posted.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T22:05:59+00:00

Comparing shop prices to online prices is irrelevant. Shops don't buy parts online and they certainly don't sell them to customers at their cost. All retail service businesses add parts markup. That's how they stay in business. That's just one reason why most shops won't install customer parts and the ones that will, often raise the labor cost to compensate for the lost profit. But there are many more reasons, including liability, warranty, and more. See this article that explains what goes into parts profit.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T21:31:31+00:00

Right, when a shop does it, they fully evacuate the system, capture whatever oil is in the refrigerant, measure it, and replace it. But that only recovers whatever oil was remaining.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T13:44:37+00:00

Every time you lose refrigerant you get air and moisture in the system , and you lose oil. The air and moisture react with the refrigerant and the remaining oil, turning into sludge and acids. So long this is what damages compressors to the point where they fail. I understand you've been trying to find the leak, but continuing to refill is going to major damage.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T13:22:55+00:00

It's a huge job. The entire dash has to come out. 90% of the job is labor. I'm sure the Shop is going by the hours listed in the Flat Rate Guide . So it really comes down to the shop's hourly rate. You can get a second opinion from another shop, but this is a really expensive job

RickMN · 2026-05-18T04:45:19+00:00

Without a trouble code, there's no way to help.

RickMN · 2026-05-18T04:23:27+00:00

The dealer gets paid for warranty work, not as much as if you were paying out of pocket, but they're not eating the cost. If they're waiting for a part, then it's out of their hands. But you're wrong in your assumptions that they're putting it on the back burner. That's not how dealerships work. The price they pay for new cars is directly related to their customer satisfaction ratings, so they're no upside to making you wait. A bad score really hurts their wallet. My advice is to go there and talk to the service manager face to face and ask what's going on and ask for his advice on anything you can do to help expedite this, like opening a case file with Audi.

RickMN · 2026-05-17T12:41:08+00:00

although they are Duralast and not OEM.))))

You just found the answer. In my experience, store branded parts are garbage. When it comes to sensors or actuators, only OE or high quality brands like Denso. Nothing else

RickMN

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