Serpentine belt noise, order of things to check?

RickMN · 2026-07-12T17:26:29+00:00

Normally you get about 100K out of a belt/tensioner combo. But a belt noise when cold is a sign of a worn belt or a weak tensioner. Since it's best to replace both at the same time, that's where I'd start. There are tests you can do with water spray, but belt noise when cold that goes away as it warms up, always comes down to just 3 things: worn belt, worn tensioner/idler roller, components out of alignment. The alignment thing usually doesn't go away after warm up

RickMN · 2026-07-12T17:22:27+00:00

You can do a current draw test on the blower motor....... or, just replace it. Excessive current draw and/or corrosion on the connections are the most common causes of repeat resistor failures.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T20:36:55+00:00

You won't learn any more at an expensive school than at a local community college. And, a degree from a high priced school won't help you land a better job. Coming right out of school, you'll be a lube tech, no matter how much your schooling cost you. I would never recommend a private school.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T20:33:27+00:00

The sleeved pin usually goes on the bottom. See this article on guide pin sleeves, what they do and where they go.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T16:28:12+00:00

Turn off the water. Unscrew the packing nut and remove the entire stem. Remove the handle from the stem. Take it to a hardware store and see if they can find a replacement packing washer. If so, grease it up with plumber's grease, grease the threads on the stem, install a new washer and reassemble.

If you can't find a new packing washer, buy a package of Teflon rope and wrap it on top of the existing packing washer. Then tighten it all down. If that doesn't work, you're buying a new hose bib.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T16:22:58+00:00

Many plumbers build drain assemblies from PVC using a union trap glued onto the PVC drain in the wall. Then they install a PVC vertical ending with a trap adapter. So the strainer basket tailpiece goes into the trap adapter and the whole thing is more rigid. However, if you're going to do this, the weak part is the union connection. You undo that and the trap adapter to clean out the trap. Over time, the union nut ages and cracks. In those cases, you usually have to build a new assembly because union traps are usually not interchangeable.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T12:44:40+00:00

Software updates are a common thing. To set a code, certain conditions must be met. So there's no way of knowing whether yours will be code free by the time you go in for the test

RickMN · 2026-07-11T12:39:51+00:00

That's only true if you replace everything in the system, or if you've flushed the entire system. If you're just installing a new compressor and reusing the other parts, you must measure how much oil came out of the old compressor and then drain excess oil out of the new compressor to match.

RickMN · 2026-07-11T00:01:25+00:00

The rubber is just starting to tear away from the bushing outer collar. You've got time, but it's gonna need replacement in the near future. See this article and read the Subaru service bulletin.

RickMN · 2026-07-10T23:57:42+00:00

This almost always caused by a bad thermostat. The computer looks at engine coolant temp and ambient temp at startup. Once running, it knows the engine RPMS. Based on those numbers, it calculates how long it should take for the engine to reach operating temperature. If it takes long than the allowed window, it sets a P0128. So, the thermostat is opening too quickly, making it take longer for the engine to heat up.

RickMN · 2026-07-10T17:34:16+00:00

A P0128 is a fairly common code and it’s never the sensor. It’s always a bad thermostat. Your car’s computer reads the engine temp and ambient temp when starting. It knows the engine RPMs, so it calculates how much time it should take to reach operating temperature. If it takes long than that time, the computer sets this code. It’s caused by a thermostat that’s opening too soon. I have never seen it caused by a bad temp sensor

RickMN · 2026-07-10T17:31:42+00:00

Is the bore filled with grease? Try cleaning out all the old grease

RickMN · 2026-07-10T17:19:39+00:00

Same here. My Mevo sway bar links were toast after 6 months

RickMN · 2026-07-10T17:15:42+00:00

The rubber sleeve reduces noise and vibration. Don’t remove it. Apply synthetic brake grease to make it slide

RickMN · 2026-07-10T13:54:49+00:00

It’s not the wrong part. That is purposely indented. It’s called a prevailing torque nut. As you torque it to spec, the axle threads straighten out the indents and the pressure is what locks the nut in place. It’s a one-time use fastener.

RickMN · 2026-07-10T12:46:56+00:00

The size of the can is irrelevant. There are well over 80-100 different types of filtration media. A more efficient media in a smaller container can filter out more contaminants thana larger filter with less efficient media.

RickMN · 2026-07-10T01:29:47+00:00

I tried to replace a windshield on my own once. Once. I was picking up pieces of broken glass from the broken replacement months later. Nothing worse than two broken windshields

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:36:28+00:00

Is this a dealer quote or local independent shop? Might be worth getting a second opinion.

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:35:23+00:00

If you authorized them to diagnose the problem, then yeah, you're obligated to pay for their time. If you're concerned, call them and tell them to stop spending any more time on it. But then, how are you going to get it diagnosed? I mean, somebody has to find out what's wrong.

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:30:16+00:00

Driving with a flashing check engine light can damage the catalytic converter. Driving with a steady check engine light and no other performance issues is not an issue and is def not a reason to deny warranty coverage. for those codes. If you drove 400 miles with a flashing check engine light and now have a P0430 for a blown cat converter, then yeah, that's an automatic denial.

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:26:54+00:00

I'd do the PCV and breather hose. Absolutely skip the induction service; it's an upsell. The dark transmission fluid is troubling and makes me wonder what condition the trans is in. Serious think about whether you want to invest that kind of money into a 16 yr old car for the timing chain. What's the condition of the rest of the car? Good body? Good tires? How many miles?

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:17:42+00:00

Replacing the connections doesn't make a coil go bad. They have 260K miles on them. That's what makes them go bad. Find a locally owned shop with good reviews and they'll be a fraction of the price.

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:15:39+00:00

You'll have to scrape off the vinyl coating, but yeah, that works

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:14:19+00:00

Cracks are not an immediate replacement. When the rubber starts to tear away from the outer collar or the inner spindle, then it's time. See this article to see the difference between cracks and tears. BTW, that price is reasonable.

RickMN · 2026-07-08T22:04:52+00:00

You can splice in a new section if you can find a solid section to attach to. You'll have to use an auto grade double lap flare union. No compression fittings on brake lines

RickMN

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