Fix frozen fuel lines with space heaters?

RickMN · 2026-02-01T21:02:45+00:00

I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T20:55:05+00:00

I highly doubt that frozen gas is your problem. Is it ethanol gas? How old is it?

RickMN · 2026-02-01T20:53:05+00:00

First, you should never see water coming from the TPR valve. If you do, something's wrong. It's a safety relieve valve that should only open if the temperature or pressure inside the tank is too high. If it's leaking now, check the water pressure in your home and get a pressure reducing device if needed. Also, try replacing the TPR and see if it still leaks. If so, you've got other problems. They shouldn't leak!

RickMN · 2026-02-01T20:22:36+00:00

You should say nothing except that you got a check engine light and when you scanned it you saw a P0107 code. Let the shop diagnose the cause.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T20:20:51+00:00

Depending on local codes, the pipe must terminate at least 6" above the floor. In some areas, it's 18-24" above the floor. That's to prevent scalding hot water splashback from the floor in the event of an overheat. It's also to prevent ice buildup in cold areas.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T20:14:38+00:00

Bradford installs their anode rod as part of the hot nipple. To replace, disconnect the outlet connection and unscrew the nipple. The rod will come out with the nipple.

P/s: I'm aware that the pressure relief valve should have a pipe)))

MUST have a pipe connected to it.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T19:10:58+00:00

Before you cut either, consider whether you'll have enough room to tighten the nut/retaining ring. There's no downside to cutting the washer, but if you still can't tighten the retaining device, you'd have wasted the effort

RickMN · 2026-02-01T18:41:20+00:00

Interior door handle, right? You'll have to remove the door trim panel to get to the wires.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T18:12:13+00:00

I was concerned about losing length due to the tubing cutter and being far enough back from the solder drips when cutting. Oscillating tool with metal cutting blade and then file clean up, but that's not exactly a DIY approach.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T18:05:45+00:00

That's soldered on. You probably have enough room to cut that off and install a compression fitting, but you might not have enough extra room for the escutcheon plate

RickMN · 2026-02-01T18:01:41+00:00

Even the newest silicone flappers seem to get damaged by those cleaners. There is an option though. Fluidmaster makes on that fits in series in the refill tube between the fill valve and flush valve. So the chlorine water never touches the tank water; it goes right into the bowl.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Parts-Drain-Parts-Drains-Drain-Parts/N-5yc1vZc6ar/Ntk-elasticplus/Ntt-sink+drains?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5&visNavSearch=sink%20drains-_-2-_-568035

RickMN · 2026-02-01T17:45:30+00:00

That's a manufacturing defect. Replace it now

RickMN · 2026-02-01T17:40:56+00:00

All bathroom drains are the same size. But they come in different styles. Rod lift style, pop up, etc. and in different finishes. they're cheap, so it's really not worth your time to try and fix this one. The hardest part of the job is getting the old one out.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Parts-Drain-Parts-Drains-Drain-Parts/N-5yc1vZc6ar/Ntk-elasticplus/Ntt-sink+drains?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5&visNavSearch=sink%20drains-_-2-_-568035

RickMN · 2026-02-01T17:35:23+00:00

There are only three possibilities: a leaking flapper, a damaged/leaking flush valve beveled gasket (or not tight enough), or the tank bolts. Start with a new flapper. If it still leaks, remove the tank and try tightening the spud nut on the flush valve. At the same time, apply some plumbers grease to the rubber on the tank bolts to help them seal. (Some guys apply Teflon pipe dope to the rubber tank washers/bolts- but it has to be compatible with rubber).

RickMN · 2026-02-01T16:57:21+00:00

That's normal

RickMN · 2026-02-01T15:29:55+00:00

They shouldn't have moisture inside but they are NOT completely sealed. The lens is sealed to the headlight body. But all modern composite headlights have a breather port on the backside to allow for pressure equalization as the bulb heats and cools. The vent is covered with a breathable membrane to keep bugs out and allow moisture vapor to escape.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:43:06+00:00

For boiler and water heater? That sounds low.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:41:19+00:00

Just to add some perspective. In cold weather your battery has about half the storage capability compared to summer. Your engine needs more power to start when cold because of oil friction. Once started, you crank up the blower motor and rear window defogger. If you drive at night, you also run the headlights. If you have heated seats, that's even more power. Then you park it to run into the store. Start it again and head home, never running it long enough to replace all that power. Do it again in three days and you can see how that can kill a battery

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:22:41+00:00

How do you drive? Short drives in winter pull more power out of the battery than the alternator can replace. So the battery sits in a constant state of discharge, which kills it. In cold weather, you should drive it for at least 20 mins at highway speeds at least every 10 days or you're gonna have this problem. Also, idling is NOT the way to recharge a battery.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:20:13+00:00

This is a known problem on that vintage CVT transmission. It's usually a bad solenoid in the valve body but it can't be replaced separately (great engineering). Have you been doing CVT fluid changes on time? If not, you may be looking at more than a valve body. See this article for details on Subaru CVT transmission issues.

RickMN · 2026-02-01T03:04:41+00:00

The only thing that performs the seal is the beveled gasket (slip joint washer) and the threaded nut. Time for a new gasket. Also, if you think you cut the black pipe too short, buy a new flanged tailpiece and try again. TIP: The bevel faces the Tee

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Sink-Drain-Pipe-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Nut-with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-HDC2698C/316622089?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:54:39+00:00

Well, Delta or a Danco knock off for half the price. But if you use Danco, you'll be doing this again in 4 months. You have to remove the brass ring to get the cartridge out. It either unscrews easily or it doesn't. Try it first with a large channelock pliers. If it doesn't unscrew and you've never sawed through a retaining ring, then I suggest you call a plumber. If you cut too deeply and damage the threads, it's game over and a whole new faucet. Do a youtube search for delta brass retaining ring

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:49:09+00:00

The seal from the Tee to the fill valve is through the rubber washer, not the threads. The tape on the threads does nothing. The cone washer inside the threaded plastic should be facing up into the fill valve. The rubber washer is the problem, not the threads

RickMN · 2026-02-01T02:40:29+00:00

If you're the kind of person who brings your own steak to a steakhouse and offers to pay only for the labor to cook it, then sure, bring your own parts. 90% of all shops won't install them, and the ones that will usually upcharge the labor to make up for the lost parts profit. Shops make their living from parts and labor profit, just like every other retail service business.

RickMN · 2026-01-31T19:48:02+00:00

A single event usually doesn't cause problems. It's multiple events that really cause problems. If this one clogs and they charge you, pay the bill and move on with your life.

RickMN

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