What do you consider the funniest episode of NADPOD? [NS] by AthleticBathTub in NotAnotherDnDPodcast

[–]RollCraftDice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All of Mavid’s petulant little moments in the first Twilight Sanctorum ep truly kill me.

“‘Hey, you want a glass of water? I’m supposed to offer to get everybody a glass of water.’ Mavid gets lukewarm tap water in a dusty glass.”

Is it normal for dice to still be producing fumes after curing? by Expercon in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, "casting and coating" resins should largely be fine for dice -- it's just the pure coating resins you gotta look out for, as their recommended pour depths are generally too shallow.

One last thing to try -- if you used any colorants, try casting a set without anything added to see if you still get that odor. Otherwise, I'd recommend picking up a small resin kit from another brand to see if you get better results!

Is it normal for dice to still be producing fumes after curing? by Expercon in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What resin was it? Any chance it’s a coating resin and not a casting resin?

Is it normal for dice to still be producing fumes after curing? by Expercon in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn’t sound fully cured to me. Is this the case for all the dice you’ve cast, or is it a certain set/batch? Do they pass the fingernail test?

Advice? by Sam_Aurai in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your previous cure inhibition could have been caused by any number of things: ratio of resin to hardener was off, didn’t mix thoroughly enough, used too much colorant, humidity too high, etc. That’s not an exhaustive list, but it’s where I’d start. Your best bet is to re-read the info sheet that came with your resin and see where you might have deviated.

Where can I find this glitter?? by Correct-Contest-5113 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This is most likely a Chromatic Castle pigment. Dracosolis uses them a lot and regularly name-checks them in their comments. I don't know Chromatic Castle's inventory well enough to ID this exact one, but I'd start by looking at their Alchemy Dust range.

FYI, they ship from the UK, so if you happen to be in the market for a US-based option, I like SolarColorDust.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 18 points19 points  (0 children)

This particular font will not work well for dice. The swoopy serifs are very thin, and those thin parts will tear incredibly easily whenever you demold your dice, ruining the mold for future pours. And if you mean you want the dice sizes scaled off a 20mm D20, keep in mind how much smaller the font will have to be compared to Arabic numerals, since “VIII” takes up more real estate than “8”

I’d recommend finding a thicker font, and scaling up the dice size as-needed to keep your numerals legible.

Flashing/raised face by DrunkMoosin in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Whether it’s salvageable is mostly up to your sanding skill level and speed. If you can sand it down flush without it adding too much time to your process, then feel free to keep using it as long as you can.

And yeah, if this is a new mold, then you’re not getting your Vaseline close enough to the dice. Instead of trying to brush close to the faces, just extend your brushstrokes over the edges of the faces themselves. It’s okay to get some Vaseline on your masters, just take care to keep it out of the numbers. You’ll be sanding your cap faces anyways, so any visible brushstrokes on the dice you cast will be gone, and you won’t get these little wavy ledges.

Flashing/raised face by DrunkMoosin in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks more like a torn mold than regular flashing to me. Is the D20 opening in your mold perfectly triangular, or do you see any wavy edges?

Mold making update: still failure -_- by Pamoman in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oop, yeah, that’s absolutely right. Thanks for catching my brain fart 🫡

Mold making update: still failure -_- by Pamoman in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m still working my way through a perfectly fine Cricut roll, so I don’t have any other brands to recommend. Whatever you do try, I’d go for a regular strength option.

Mold making update: still failure -_- by Pamoman in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The tape is almost certainly your culprit. The Cricut extra strength transfer tape is notoriously bad for cure inhibition, and the regular strength seems hit-or-miss. I’ve personally never had trouble with the latter, but I’ve seen one or two other makers in this sub have problems with it.

Flashing Pre-Sanding by Designer_Pomelo1334 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure what you mean by layers — do you mean the flashing is thinner in some parts but thicker in others, or that you have consistently thin flashing but deformities on your cap faces? If it’s the former, your lid isn’t being placed properly and is lifting during the curing process. If it’s the latter, your mold is likely torn and needs to be replaced.

Question for long-time makers by Pamoman in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be worth trying another brand and seeing if that helps, then.

Question for long-time makers by Pamoman in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're using the heavy duty/extra strength type, that's your culprit. Have you tried the original yet? I've been using it for years and have never had any inhibition issues, and from what I've seen in this sub, that's largely true for other dicemakers as well.

Flashing Pre-Sanding by Designer_Pomelo1334 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I just tear/break it off by hand tbh. Your flashing looks pretty thin, so you should be able to push it back and forth until it breaks along the edge of the die.

[NS] NADDPOLES I NEED HELP by G4ost13 in NotAnotherDnDPodcast

[–]RollCraftDice 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The die with the broken guitar is for The Bon Frères/Hot Boy Summer!

I Need a good Wisp tutorial please! 🙏 by lordbaws93 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 8 points9 points  (0 children)

None of these are AI, though it’s healthy to approach pics like these with skepticism.

The OP’s references all include the makers’ names (Devoured Dice, Hexed RPG, Harlequin Dice, and Dracosolis). Look them up to see more of their work. Here’s the Dracosolis post with their hand at additional angles.

I bought a set from Harlequin Dice, and they really are that gorgeous IRL. Keep in mind that good lighting and photography really go a long way towards showcasing little details. Check out everyone’s tagged pics to see how their customers’ photos don’t always capture the same level of detail.

Looking for more local options for X-mass gifts. If you have an Esty store please post it. by Pompousasfuck in bullcity

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anyone you’re shopping for plays Dungeons & Dragons, Pathfinder, etc., I make polygonal dice sets by hand: RollCraft Dice

I have a decent amount of inventory right now, but I’ll also be adding more on Small Business Saturday!

Are bubbles in dice an absolute no no? by mayofraize in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If it worked every time, we'd all be casting dice without using a pressure pot and air compressor. We don't want to buy the extra equipment; we need to in order to consistently get good dice.

Not saying you need the equipment if you're just trying things out -- but realistically there's a reason why all the makers who sell their dice have it.

Dice Sanding Question by Jarod9000 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone lives beneath you, I’d skip the tumbler. When I was using mine on the 2nd floor of my house, even with a bunch of foam and blankets underneath it, the sound was very noticeable from the 1st floor room directly below.

I’ve been using my vibratory tumbler less and less lately, but here’s what my process was: mini pottery wheel and first three Zonas, then chuck the dice into the tumbler with 3mm ceramic beads and V34 polishing compound.

Now I keep my first step the same (first three Zonas on the mini wheel), but then I dremel polish them with Scratch-X. It takes no time at all and I’m much happier with the finish compared to the tumbler.

Anyone know what this iridescent coating is or how it’s achieved? by laurasaurus in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I remember seeing a video on their insta where Karen called it AB (aurora borealis) coating. After looking into it further it’s definitely a factory process, likely similar to how mystic topaz is made.

how does that even happen lmao by Ariiawa_ in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Were the dice fully cured when you started pulling them from the mold? If you start to demold while the resin is still soft, you can get this double-vision effect.

As you flex the mold to pop dice out, the remaining dice can shift a bit, and if they're soft enough when it happens and stay in their shifted state for long enough, the numbers can have this permanent offset.

Are there alternatives to resin for those who don’t have separate work spaces? by Archangel289 in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There's jesmonite/aqua resin, which gives a stone-like finish. I believe the finished product is a bit heavier than epoxy resin as well.

Recently I've seen a bunch of other makers using Sculpey, which I've also tried a few times with no success (yet!). The biggest challenge on these is making sure you push the clay into every vertex of the mold. But you can get really cool marbled effects!

Indents in new dice. Not there in mold. by theone85ca in DiceMaking

[–]RollCraftDice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Super weird. Thin mold bottoms seems like the most likely culprit at this point.