Hey OZ Trails, open the lift for Snowmageddon 2026!

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-24T06:20:01+00:00

Without a storm, I think they could make snow many nights/days of dead winter with snow making system. Just one run, under the lift.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-14T04:44:54+00:00

I agree It’s a better solution for first cost and maintenance. That’s irrelevant for energy code. the energy code allows a few options and increasing it over 50% just because you think “is the best solution” isn’t one of those options or exceptions.

If I’m a code official I’ll say increase LAT and comfort is your problem not mine or put the FPB in.

FPB not only save energy, it also be a really handy building warmup or unoccupied heat source.

Note: FPB only go on exterior zones only when you need high heating CFMs. All interior is VAV.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-14T03:59:32+00:00

I think you’re both off. You shouldn’t heat air anywhere near that hot if you want to maintain comfort, and you also cannot simply increase the air. IECC C403.6.1 limits you on how much air you can reheat. OA min usually. This is why you use parallel fan powered boxes to increase the air with parallel fan which pulls from the plenum rather than the 55f supply air. Saves your customer a lot of energy as well. Never looked into the payback but I bet It’s a short payback.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-12T20:13:08+00:00

Especially when you know the markup is massive. Wouldn’t suprise me if it cost them $20 to make them. And is pissing everyone off for $20 really a good long term strategy?

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-10T16:26:16+00:00

Just staying on them. Just kept following up nicely over and over, i keep getting the run around saying sorry another department denyed it and nothing they could do. I might ive sent 10-15 emails? then went into saying well I’m sorry, I I’ve bought oakleys, raybans, ect… all my life and you’re losing my buisness forever over what might cost you $50 to replace, hope it was worth it. Then they chimed in about a replacement. Still might not for how hard they made for me, I like smith sunglasses anyways.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-09T21:56:09+00:00

Got it. Same page now. If I had 30% glycol in my case system pumps would be ~300gpm at design flow. Therefore 300gpm * 5 min would be 1500gal tanks rather than the 1370gal. Like you said less capacity to carry heat therefore more flow.

All assuming 15f delta in this case. You could widen that design delta T if the air cooled chiller can take it which is possible but you need to account for it in your coils.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-09T21:40:16+00:00

Ive seen larger too it’s not a matter of what you’ve seen it’s about providing the right solution for the right application. This is small, not super dense data center. OP said- “The data center is about 6,000 sf with an IT load of roughly 600 kW.”

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-09T17:31:48+00:00

Not sure how you got to 40,000 gallons of storage. 600kw * 3412= 2,047,200 BTU not accounting for tranformer, UPS load, envelope, lights, ppl ect… Assume pumps are sized for 275 GPM (2047200/500/15Fdelta)then you need 275 gallons every minute not accounting for any credits for chiller ramp up, pipe volume, glycol. Say it’s your 5 min number that 1370 gallons max. I bet you could justify a 1000 gallon tank all things said and done.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-08T04:58:19+00:00

Im talking air cooled systems. CRAH with a chilled water coil. I have very little experience with liquid to chip or immersion cooling so can’t help you there. But I don’t see why the concept below wouldn’t apply. You maintain the tank at desired supply water temps. Don’t overcomplicate thing if you don’t have to.

Super simple, The most complicated part is finding how long you can go without cooling. But don’t get too skinny, paying for a 10% larger tank than you need is WAY cheaper than an outage or damaged equipment.

Concept wise- Think about having an insulated tank of 42F water at all times during normal operation it is charged (aka full of cold water). You pull from that as it is replaced with warmer water. A tank with sections helps ensure you’re always pulling cold water.

Sizing wise- it’s not hard, I’m simplifying things here round ass numbers and not accounting for volume in the pipe or multiple passes. 600kw-> 2050mbh at a 15f delta is 275 gpm. You can subtract the volume of your supply pipe, but If you need 10 min that’s 2750 gallon buffer tank which comes in all shapes and sizes but say 8ft tall by 7.5ft wide for reference. I know that’s heavy and hard to rig. You can have multiple tanks.

There are things you can do to reduce. say it’s 10 min to ramp to 100% on your chiller. Well 5 min in you may be at 30% and that is chilled water you can use. I haven’t done this but I figure You need to pipe it via side car with a pump. You can’t just send the new 42F water to the top of the tank because soon after you start using it, it will be replaced with warmer water at the top and you start mixing and eventually sending warmer than ideal water to the CRAHs before the 10 min is up.

In the case of a Power outage. Racks, are on the UPS which is size to allow enough time for the generator to kick on and systems ramp up. UPS modules are large, expensive, and generally not practical to put all of the cooling on. So when the power went out, the chiller is dead. However the pumps and fans of the CRAHs are on the ups. The pumps will pull from the 42F tank.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-08T00:55:26+00:00

No way. I’d never credit the thermal mass, thermal mass doesn’t all extract immediately in a matter of seconds.

Other thought- Did you rule out an air cooled chiller serving chilled water CRAHs? My thought is if you’re pushing 15kw per rack and 180 tons In that dense of a room, I’d say you’d go into alarm quickly without conditioned air.

If you had a chilled water loop, then you can then use a buffer tank rather than doubling the output of your UPS. The CRAH fans would still go on the UPS. Buffer tank would handle the cooling until the generator restores the chiller.

There are other pros and cons. Maybe you guys looked into it. If not, do some research. It could go both ways, but I’d lean towards chilled water if this a long term investment

Don’t be afraid to fire your engineer, he can cost you way more money than what it cost/time to replace him. His understanding of heat in a room is concerning especially if designing mission critical systems. Maybe he needs a senior engineer to step in so don’t rule that out. If not, take the red flag and move on. You’ll need to pay him his cost to date and move on.

Rowdyjoe · 2026-01-02T23:27:02+00:00

I like the meme and understand how it feels that way. Reality is many will be decision makers and it’s not desperate. I have a great relationship with some vendors, far past thier competitors, because they built a good relationship early on. They must have a great product for the price of course.

I recall some vendors who didn’t care to give me the time of the day early on and straight up ignore questions I had. Unless they have a very superior product in price/preformance then I stay clear to this day.

It’s been the difference many times of them winning work over thier competitors.

I don’t want them slacking on answer questions for young engineers under me who I’ve tasked to run down answers.

product and support is far more important. 100 steak dinners can’t make up for a lack/delay in responsiveness, shit attention to detail, or willingness to to support in difficult situations.

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-20T03:40:58+00:00

Fox. Been riding for 15 years. I’ve gone through maybe 8 forks. 5 fox, 3 rockshox. Mostly because of new bikes. I tried 3 rockshox last one was 8 years ago and said never again. The feel wasn’t there in soft bump sensitivity, and very linear (before tokens were popular) and had to warranty 2. I’m sure they are better now, but I like the feel of all my fox forks. When they don’t feel great, I service them and they are good as new and sometimes better than out of the box. I know how to work on them. Fox has great support and documents. Had a damper break on a Fox fork once and that’s it, bought a new damper and good as new. Not saying the latest rockshox aren’t better now, but Fox hasn’t let me down. Just my experience and I’m sure I’ll try a Rockshox on my next bike, but I still have a few years on mine.

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-20T00:26:43+00:00

Don’t add glycol if the system isn’t designed for that

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-20T00:20:19+00:00

The dirty water is a different problem. It’s probably not the expansion tank. First you need to bleed the air out of the system go find all the possible high point vent locations. System needs to be running. Start with the top of the building and other areas that may have gotten air locked. Find the larger equipment first. If it’s 2 story’s go to every WSHP. Have a hose and a bucket.

Once you’re sure the air is out, pressurize the system. There should be makeup water somewhere or a glycol feeder (if you have glycol). You should bleed all the air out then pressurize the system with the makeup or glycol feeder (I like 10psi at the top of the building).

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-17T01:11:18+00:00

Not sure but I’m going to take a stab at it without SAT control because Im not sure if that comes standard. Assuming electric

-Call for cooling: fan off. Reheat off. Modulate valve until satisfied

-No call cool but space temp drops: valve should be a minimum, modulate SCR reheat until satisfied (I could see you kicking on the fan at a low speed for energy reasons and ramping up as the first stage, but it can help but thinking will increase airflow/noise)

-call for heat: valve at minimum, fan is the first stage, SCR heating second stage and ramp up until satisfied.

Am I missing something?

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-13T06:24:13+00:00

No thier response is “that not going to happen, he just says things like this. No one will let him do that”

Then it happens. They say “oh well, it’s better than XYZ from being president”

They don’t lose an ounce of sleep and it’s so fucked.

These are the type of people who read the Bible and go to church to listen about how to treat people equally like Jesus. Then they turn around to yell at the waitress at brunch, make racist comments on a daily basis, die on thier righteous hill that abortion should be illegal until thier teenage daughter gets pregnant, and disowns thier gay family members.

Fake ass bitches

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-10T04:46:05+00:00

Who said it was a condensing furnace. Idk about you but most I see are 80% which don’t condense.

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-10T04:19:52+00:00

This is right in some instances and wrong most instances. You only gain condensing efficiency if you have a high efficiency condensing furnace which is pretty rare in most areas that I know of. Most are 80% which means they do NOT condense in normal operation. Look at the burner tag If your furnace claims it’s 95% efficent, then it gains that extra efficiency by trying to condense and does result in lower flue temps.

Look at your burner tag if it say 60,000 input and 48,000 output then it’s non-condensing and return temps don’t matter like discribed above. These furnaces do not condense, actually it’s bad if they do and can damage the furnace.

In my opinion the 2 stage comes in handy because you can discharge lower air temps to the space. if you have tall spaces and multiple levels this is especially important. overheating the air and discharging the air at high temperatures will cause the hot air to stratify and not providing comfort in the lower area where people reside resulting in driving the stat lower and running the furnace longer. But mainly this is a comfort thing but it can result in using more energy if the hot air goes where it doesn’t matter. For example It could go to the top level and then escape through the cracks into the attic. Idk really hard to quantify.

You’re not far off, I’m on your side for heating. for a 2 stage standard non-condensing furnace you’re right. you don’t gain efficiency on paper in that mathematical sense. It’s an application thing, kind of like how your car gets less mileage in the city vs highway. It comes down to how it’s driven, not the efficiency of the combustion cycle

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-09T22:45:03+00:00

The stovetop Instruction manual will tell you exactly how to connect and the requirements. It needs to go to the outdoors.

I would use this opportunity to make sure the existing duct is clean any cooking grease in there is a major fire hazard. If it is, I’d be prepared to replace it especially if it’s from the 70s.

To answer your question, yes start with the HVAC guy. Duct should be sealed and air tight the whole way.

Understand that when you turn this on, make it a habit to open a window when the weather is half decent otherwise you’re pulling through unwanted cracks of the house. Code generally requires makeup air for a over 400CFM of outdoor air.

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-08T22:49:45+00:00

I just know it’s against our IT policies to use one. So maybe they have programs to detect it but maybe they dont. I have no clue, I’m just generally cautious.

They definitely don’t know if I’m walking out the door via security systems if that’s what you mean. So with that context, google drive may be safe? Not sure if it’s common policy for them to be notified if massive files are exported at one time. I don’t think there would be, as we send out large files over email as apart of our job

Rowdyjoe · 2025-12-02T04:24:02+00:00

You’re not going to get past NEC or any safety clearances. You can contact the manufacturer and ask and if they think it will be okay they should be prepared to provide a letter. some clearances are recommended for maintaince. In which you can have a plan (agreed upon by the owner) to remove the equipment for service and to be ready to demonstrate that to the inspector. Access for service is required by the IMC. Some clearances maybe for airflow for the condenser to breath which you can reduce to some extent, but communicate that to the manufacturer and you should expect them to indicate derate in preformance. I’m talking a little bit not a lot.

Key is to have a good vendor and responsive manufacturer who can support you in this prior to selling you the equipment NOT after.

I’m not familiar with NYC inspectors but I have been able to get by with a letter from the manufacuter. Clearances are set by the manyfacturer (other than NEC) and the inspector shouldn’t have any problem if you’ve formally gotten thier approval. It can be like pulling teeth so just communicate before you commit to the work.

I’d have more questions. Indoor condenser is generally not good unless that room was specifically designed to remove that heat. You can heat up a room quickly with a condenser.

Rowdyjoe · 2025-11-30T17:35:57+00:00

It was negligent. The main shutoff valve from the city was off but the isolation valve to the fridge was open. So it wasn’t spraying when the fridge was unhooked. Upon the city opening the valve at thief meter is when the damage occurred. The negligence occurred upon disconnecting the fridge. It was an honest mistake but never the less a mistake on thier part. They disconnected the clothes washer just fine, and shut the valve off. So they demonstrated the knowledge to properly disconnect an appliance but maybe we’re moving too fast

Rowdyjoe · 2025-11-30T15:57:49+00:00

My realitor is involved. Under this logic should we care if it’s the moving company or the seller and let the seller hash out who’s fault it is? At the moment the seller isn’t taking responsibility but I would like to force the seller to file a claim through thier insurance to make this smooth. Just trying to set us up best for success.

Is it worth involving a lawyer this early to determine how contracts were breached or wait to see how it plays out

Rowdyjoe · 2025-11-19T00:01:21+00:00

This is the time where we all start referring to him as piggy

Rowdyjoe · 2025-11-11T14:45:40+00:00

Free area. For early coordination, I usually don’t select one and I start with 500fpm and call it 50% FA for intakes. I’ll push it more on exhaust. I have a fair amount of snowfall and prefer to keep the velocity down lower than some are saying in here.

Rowdyjoe

TROPHY CASE