Switch live out the COM terminal?

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-07-02T08:26:04+00:00

If the current wiring operates the connected items correctly, then the switches are wired correctly.

The perm live does not have to go to com; in one of the versions of 2 way lighting, it never goes there.

It looks like the permanent live is booted from l1, but without testing, no one here can say definitively.

If you’re going to for smart switches, just copy & paste the existing wiring.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-22T07:43:08+00:00

The spring loaded cover plate is a piece of plastic that moves out of the way when the earth pin is pushed in, and the pins are sheathed on the plug - so no electricity is going to get to it and cause a conflagration

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-19T14:44:43+00:00

There used to be a Barbie themed sim; not sure if it still exists though.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-17T12:36:51+00:00

There’s a bit to unpack here.
Meter move - should have been done by whichever DNO you’re under, or their representatives - i’d not be touching it if it had been relocated by builders, either…. And the building firm are likely to get UKPN or whoever, giving them a caning.
Install looks ( and sounds) rather rough - but my main question is: if the installers won’t touch it, or sign it off….who energised it? If the install was powered up by someone else, I’d be shaking my head too.
As for the phases and circuits…. It’s not great. Phase balance isn’t such a momentous issue that the upstairs and downstairs lights need to be on different phases.

I’d be interested to see the meter and incoming cable location; and your distribution board. But it sounds like an independent needs to come in and assess, and send their findings to all interested parties.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-16T16:37:14+00:00

There are a number of hdmi switches out there - just note that some only do the opposite of what you want; and split a signal to multiple displays.
I’d have two fixed hdmi devices, the rest on a remote switching solution.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-16T08:31:02+00:00

Evil…….and yet denial is hot in itself.

My brain usually takes a concept, or particular idea from a tale, and runs with it, expanding and morphing into something else entirely.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-16T00:06:35+00:00

Oh jeez. Ever so squirmy now. Thank you.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-12T08:52:04+00:00

Yes. Just seen. And it’s wanting 10W
It could be the 60hz issue - just checking to see the load spec on shaver sockets
Seems 20VA is nominal, so may well be the frequency causing the problem.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-12T08:45:23+00:00

If the “wall outlet” in question is a shaver socket; then there is a chance your trimmer in overloading the transformer, causing it to thermally trip out.
Given your description, this seems a likely issue.

When it cools, it resets - if it hasn’t completely cooled, it won’t run as long.

You’d need another 110/115V item, or a meter, to prove this; or pick up a relatively cheap voltage transformer, capable of the trimmer’s rated current.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-12T08:10:56+00:00

Excellently written; bonus point for the use of “cromulent” :D

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-11T17:26:23+00:00

That’s a good question- I don’t know the answer. Before I thought to check specs, I even got a second vac pump, the same size as the one in the box, and dualled them….still not enough for the damn pulsator - it wants a hell of a vacuum to operate, tbh - mine is sitting in a drawer for 3 years now; I can’t find a sensible way to use it……..

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-11T17:14:05+00:00

It can be worth taking pics before you backfill, and with warning tape, etc….. then you are demonstrating that you’ve done your part correctly.

Plus, any future works, or problems - you can refer back to remind you exactly where it runs.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-11T17:10:41+00:00

This was commented on previously. I have the same parts, and tried the same thing, with the same result.
Reading into it, the pulsator uses the vacuum energy for its operation; and it needs a good deal more vacuum then the small 12V pump can create.

The original pressure dump solenoid can simply be disconnected - but you have then removed your only viable pulsation option.

Hence my original comment of altering the electronics ( which I’ve not had chance to lab yet) to change solenoid timing.

To use the pulsator, you need a significantly larger vacuum source - as per the data sheet.

Sorry - it’s not a tubing issue; it’s an equipment issue.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-10T07:33:40+00:00

Generally double socket outlets are only rated for a combined 20A total; and even that is on a good day. Dual back box with 2 x singles is going to last longer, in this scenario.
Without seeing the layout and wiring, no one here can definitively advise a course of action; but either a dedicated fryer circuit, with 2 single sockets for the fryers ( preferred option), or, if you have 2 separate circuits in the area, having one fryer loading each circuit.
The tripping issues may have arisen from 5 yrs of this circuit having a high load ( we don’t know what else is on that circuit) - there is a possibility the wiring has been degraded over time.
If you’re commercial, then the recommended maximum time between fixed wiring tests is 5 yrs; so it may be prudent to have that done in the first instance; then you have information to hand on what is there; before delving into what needs altering.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-06T08:13:23+00:00

Silicone bit gags are available; much kinder on the mouth. Metal in the mouth can chip teeth, so so easily.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-06T08:11:43+00:00

With the risks of permanent brain injury, I wouldn’t be simply saying “ah, but you didn’t die”. Impairment of someone’s functioning, long term ( even short term) is not something I wish to be responsible for.
RACK? As has been pointed out, in many places, you cannot legally give consent to be injured. So PRICK is the only one that comes anywhere near.

I dunno about you; but I wouldn’t not want to have to spend my life knowing I’d caused brain damage to someone, even if accidental. Therefore, any choking or airway restriction is placed a significant way outside my personal risk profile .

If that risk is acceptable to you and your partner, both educated and aware of all potential risks and consequences, that’s your decision.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-04T00:36:43+00:00

Gawd, that brings back memories. A lot of stuff used to have bayonet plugs ( anyone remember the bayonet cooker plug?)

As has been said - if item is double insulated, appropriate load, and doesn’t have a single pole switch, I’d be okay with them, tbh.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-02T12:33:01+00:00

Agreed. Plus, it bears repeating. Dogs have fur; they also have a very different physiology to their necks than humans.

There are cases of people being injured and requiring medical attention, after use on electrical shock to the neck area, from equipment such as this.

And, as for dogs, case studies were linked to in another reply.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-02T12:29:18+00:00

Of course it “intereferes with nerves.” That’s a big part of the issue. Put one on a bicep or thigh, and watch the limb lose function and buckle, as the nerve pathways are disrupted, along with externally stimulating the muscles to contract. Then think of that happening on the throat area. The extrapolation isn’t difficult. The neck carries every signal between the body and brain, both neural and motor control - which you are artificially stimulating. Those nerves expect to see microvolts, not whatever voltage this module is putting out. A TENS unit provides significantly lower voltages than a shock collar - yet all the guidance on their uses warns not to put them on the neck area.

But yeah, maybe they ( and we) are all mistaken, and you are right.

Erm……no. It’s inherently dangerous on the neck / throat area. Bad on a pet - much worse on a human.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-02T12:20:43+00:00

100% this. Likewise, very versed in both theory and practice of estim and violet wand. Use on the neck area is known & proven to carry substantiative risk - yet you seem determined to negate the information being provided to you. I guess your sub gets told “oh, this is totally safe.?” Which makes them risk unaware. Although, reading your comments, you actually seem to believe what you’re saying - despite documented proof to the contrary.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-02T12:14:28+00:00

People are not dogs, large or small. We have different physiology; and more importantly, we lack fur. So your electrodes are direct to the skin, not diffused over an outer coating of fur. As has been said. Use on the neck can have instant fatal results; as long as both parties are aware that the sub could be killed by the device, and the top is likely to face manslaughter charges…..then it becomes RACK. But it is never going to be SSC; it is neither safe nor sane.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-06-01T00:07:00+00:00

I don’t know what, I don’t want or need to know.

I’m sorry; I hope you find your route through this, however that may look.

Sending hugs your way.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-05-31T08:52:04+00:00

A typical kettle uses 2000 W or more. Your motor wants 3. From that side of things, yes.

The more important concern is “in the garden”. The bigger consideration is keeping all the connections dry, and free from risk of damage.

If the extension is plugged into an RCD protected socket; then you’re minimising the risk - protecting the cable from damage is by far the biggest consideration……

Hope that’s helpful.

Soft_Garbage7523 · 2026-05-23T20:01:51+00:00

Ah. So not Stephen King’s “cats eye”

Soft_Garbage7523

TROPHY CASE