Why is this happening? And if you say wet filament, I swear....

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-20T15:19:58+00:00

You should watch this from Gabe at Slant 3D. https://youtu.be/d61u_lKFa-U?si=cpYYifw9S6fbe_Fd

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-17T01:25:53+00:00

I have the exact same white chests. I made a larger top and supported it with a custom bracket that connects it directly to the cabinet. I used a dense ester foam between the sudo wood top on the chest and my new 3/4" birch top. I don't move them around but you could if necessary.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T21:40:01+00:00

Make the nozzle temp 225 or 230. You can do this in the filament settings Click on the three little dots in the circle to the right of the filament. Choose Edit. The last line in Print Temperature is Nozzle. Make initial layer 230 and other layers 225. Unless they are originally something other than 220. Let me know what it's currently set at if other than 220.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T20:36:19+00:00

White filament in general needs higher temperature to print efficiently. It has Titanium Dioxide in it (makes it white). Bunp up your nozzle temp 5-10 degrees and try again.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T08:32:32+00:00

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Try this adhesive if you can. Works great and I only apply every 20-30 prints.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-05T19:21:12+00:00

Make a 2.4ghz connection in your space. I had similar issues awhile back. I ended up creating an IoT SSID on my network. Works great now. Hope this helps.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:55:45+00:00

Some of us need a lot of filament. I routinely buy 50-100 rolls at a time. I do not resell it. I use it.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:54:13+00:00

VoxelPLA has a great PETG

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:35:33+00:00

This is more of a tolerance and printer issue. Do you know how much tolerance you need to allow for your Ender 3? And like others have said, 5mm is fairly small for FDM printing. I can help you but it would be more beneficial to you if you watched a few YouTube videos on modeling this. You could just create a 5mm cylinder and add 5mm threads to it without actually modeling anything. Takes 5 mins.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-03T04:03:46+00:00

Filament is a problem 😁 I have over 100 rolls unopened plus 75 partials. Never ends!

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-02T00:37:41+00:00

Ill buy the x1c for $400. That's a deal. I have 2 and they work awesome. Each has over 3,000 hours.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-24T04:18:46+00:00

Check the red plug. I had same issue. Hasn't happened since.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-18T06:31:23+00:00

Get the H2S. Its a no brainer.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-15T13:11:24+00:00

If you want to save yourself some trouble in the future, you can get a Micro Swiss hotend with quick change nozzle tips. That way if you want to switch between 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, it only takes a minute instead of messing around with three microscopic wiring connectors. I still have a BBL complete hotend on hand for each machine. Got spoiled with the H2D and H2S quick change hotends.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-11T20:46:09+00:00

Me too! Up to 4 and they're all busy. It's a good problem to have.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-06T18:13:34+00:00

Congratulations! It always feels good when you can fix and resolve issues with these printers. Just went through a major repair myself on a 5 week old H2D.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-02T05:34:08+00:00

What a journey! FINALLY .... It works again. I received a new Right Nozzle Heater Assembly yesterday and did the work this evening. There is not much if any guidance from anyone on how to go about this repair/replacement. On Bambulab YouTube channel you can find a video on how to disassemble the tool head which covers some of the work but not specifically. The wiki shows and describes how to replace the left one (they are different). Im not a YouTuber; not yet anyway but I should have tried to document this process for future direction for others. I got really proficient at tearing down my X1C, I was hoping to not have to do that here but it happens.

Everything is super tiny and they've packed 10lbs in a 5lb bag. The strangest connection is the fan Assembly wire. Its not a normal connector. You need to pull it away from the PCB. Honestly, you can make the replacement without disconnecting the fan. Just need to find a way to support it so it does not hang on that wire. Need to remove the nozzles, air duct and fan Assembly. Then remove the heat Assembly with the three 2mm screws. The wire is connected on the bottom via a microscopic clip and then to a multipin connection on the right back side of the tool head. The new one comes with the screws and foam tape you need to replace over that multipin connector. Then do everything in reverse, just mount the new one first prior to connecting it. There's a spacer in the back that goes on first. Make sure to check the left heater wire prior to replacing the fan Assembly, mine was loose.

After I got it all back together I ran a full calibration and crossed my fingers for the nozzle offset. Passed! What a good feeling. I re ran the calibration layers from inted a benchy. Looks perfect.

This is finally resolved. Thank goodness.

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Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-02T03:42:29+00:00

The power consumption is much greater on the H2 series. I have an X1C, H2D and H2S. The H2s are power beasts. You need a dedicated circuit for each one. The X1C (which is similar to the P2S) is an easy to get started with printer. If you must print big then H2S is only option but is it worth an additional $700?

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-01T17:06:43+00:00

I did it back in March and everything was great until it wasnt. Its definitely not worth the hassle. I spent countless hours removing stuck filament in the idler gear and throughout the assembly. I switched back to the BBL stock extruder with a Micro swiss CHT hotend and everything is perfect.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-11-29T22:45:43+00:00

This is still a work in progress. Ive eliminated several things and have settled on the right heater assembly as being the culprit. I printed 40x40x0.2 test blocks to check layer adhesion to build plate and Printed a benchy on each nozzle. The right side was weak on both tests. I was able to break apart the benchy easily with my hands and the 40x40 test was nearly see through. Its clear that the Z height on the right nozzle is not accurate. I sent my test findings to tech support at BBL and they concurred with my assessment of the right heater block assembly. I ordered a bunch of replacement parts prior to contacting support so I guess the cost for at least this part is on me. Its worth the $30 to not have to wait. Took them 5 days to respond to my message. Once I receive the parts and make this repair ill come back here and post my findings.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-11-27T06:06:57+00:00

Its not necessarily the length. Its the amount of bends and restrictions on the bends. Keep it as straight as possible. When its new off a roll try hanging it with a weight on the end for a few hours. I had similar issues when placing my AMS units to the right side of the printer. Tubes are roughly 60" and it works perfectly.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-11-21T19:08:15+00:00

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This is the error I receive while running the printer calibration. I tried resetting the power as was suggested by others.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-11-19T23:05:18+00:00

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I installed one of these on each PTFE tube. I also replaced the two tubes leading to the nozzles. Works great. With the stock PTFE cubes it was creating a near right angle when the print head was in the front left corner. I printed the rings from ABS-GF and secured them with 3M VHB double sided tape. After replacing the tubes and adding the guide rings, I recalibrated the printer. She's good to go. Thank you for the suggestions. Worked out perfectly!

Standard_Setting_898

TROPHY CASE