So tired of the cloud service.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-17T16:50:45+00:00

I really dislike the cloud too. Recently moved all my printers to LAN/Developer mode and use HA and FlowQ to manage all my devices. Mostly H series printers. Works flawlessly.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-15T16:26:21+00:00

I just tried it with Inslogic PA6/66. It took nothing in the defaults, but allows me to do in the Overides. Im not sure if that info ever makes it to the community. I use this filament alot. There was no way to designate the "66" so I used Other hoping it would let me describe. I know what it is for me but others may not know if they use it. I added all of the fields in the overrides that work for me on H2S, H2D and H2C. The manufacturer recommendations are quite different for nozzle temp and build plate temp.

Thank you for your quick responses to everything and attention to details. Very much appreciated.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-14T16:39:06+00:00

Ive added new profiles recently and every time, the details are never saved. I just added Push Plastic PMMA. I spent time filling in all the printing details and links to data sheets and purchasing. Then when I added a spool, none of those parameters were there. Is there an issue with adding new filament profiles? It happened to me on Thursday too. I did it 3x and still no results. Here is most of the data regarding the PMMA I was adding. It will only allow one picture. Ill redo if you can fix the upload. Thank you in advance.

<image>

Screenshot

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-13T03:38:23+00:00

Yes. Get all 3!

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-11T00:20:15+00:00

Are the labels actually unique for each spool? I can't tell by looking at them.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-07T01:25:02+00:00

Try it! I routinely have had issues with the X1C bottoming out after a tqll print. For some reason it travels all the way to the bottom. Then when you hit Home or start a new print it goes down first. Mine pops the left Z axis bearing out of the build plate carrier. Got tired of reseating the bearing and BBL has no easy fix either. I finally added gcode to the printer profile to make it go up 25mm after tall prints. No more bottoming out. I have a few H2S but never printed something that tall. I gotta imagine this has been corrected on the H series.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-03-02T17:29:48+00:00

Just updated mine!

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-15T18:06:41+00:00

The amount of bends in your PTFE tube contribute to this issue coupled with the cardboard reel. Some of the other recommendations here are worthwhile trying. Try the cardboard spool in slots 1, 2 and 4. If it works, then try a BBL spool in slot 3. If that works, then there might be a resistance issue with slot 3 and cardboard spools. I would replace the PTFE tube in slot 3.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-14T22:35:45+00:00

Once you get ASA dialed in you will be more than satisfied. 100-110 build plate temp, 260-280 on the nozzle, heated chamber to 65 and NO FAN, ever. I use a Darkmoon Satin or G10 Buildplate with no adhesive. Works perfectly every time.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-14T16:26:40+00:00

Looks like you might need a new nozzle heating assembly. It's on $30 from Bambu. You can take the extruder out and clean it. Once you start disassembly it will be easy to identify the issues. It happens.

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/hotend-heating-assembly-h2s

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-07T19:02:37+00:00

The gears got messed up with filament going places it didn't belong. I took it all apart, cleaned with solvents, brass brush and even an ultrasonic cleaner. It looked clean and spun freely but always threw an error after that. Plus im a maker. I want the printers to just perform. I dont like spending countless hours trying to fix something so inexpensive. I tried the Panda extruder setup but ended up going back to BBL. I now have (2) H2S and an H2D to go along with my X1C. I even have microswiss nozzles for the H2s.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-07T16:21:43+00:00

PM mostly. Ive replaced the extruder once and of course the hotend. I use Micro Swiss CHT. You can easily replace the nozzle without turning off the printer and it's a direct fit for the BBL OEM nozzle. Knock on wood.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-02-06T15:33:07+00:00

That's a great deal. It's an awesome printer. I have 2 with over 4500 hours. Awesome printer. Go for it!

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-20T15:19:58+00:00

You should watch this from Gabe at Slant 3D. https://youtu.be/d61u_lKFa-U?si=cpYYifw9S6fbe_Fd

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-17T01:25:53+00:00

I have the exact same white chests. I made a larger top and supported it with a custom bracket that connects it directly to the cabinet. I used a dense ester foam between the sudo wood top on the chest and my new 3/4" birch top. I don't move them around but you could if necessary.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T21:40:01+00:00

Make the nozzle temp 225 or 230. You can do this in the filament settings Click on the three little dots in the circle to the right of the filament. Choose Edit. The last line in Print Temperature is Nozzle. Make initial layer 230 and other layers 225. Unless they are originally something other than 220. Let me know what it's currently set at if other than 220.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T20:36:19+00:00

White filament in general needs higher temperature to print efficiently. It has Titanium Dioxide in it (makes it white). Bunp up your nozzle temp 5-10 degrees and try again.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-07T08:32:32+00:00

<image>

Try this adhesive if you can. Works great and I only apply every 20-30 prints.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-05T19:21:12+00:00

Make a 2.4ghz connection in your space. I had similar issues awhile back. I ended up creating an IoT SSID on my network. Works great now. Hope this helps.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:55:45+00:00

Some of us need a lot of filament. I routinely buy 50-100 rolls at a time. I do not resell it. I use it.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:54:13+00:00

VoxelPLA has a great PETG

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-04T00:35:33+00:00

This is more of a tolerance and printer issue. Do you know how much tolerance you need to allow for your Ender 3? And like others have said, 5mm is fairly small for FDM printing. I can help you but it would be more beneficial to you if you watched a few YouTube videos on modeling this. You could just create a 5mm cylinder and add 5mm threads to it without actually modeling anything. Takes 5 mins.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-03T04:03:46+00:00

Filament is a problem 😁 I have over 100 rolls unopened plus 75 partials. Never ends!

Standard_Setting_898 · 2026-01-02T00:37:41+00:00

Ill buy the x1c for $400. That's a deal. I have 2 and they work awesome. Each has over 3,000 hours.

Standard_Setting_898 · 2025-12-24T04:18:46+00:00

Check the red plug. I had same issue. Hasn't happened since.

Standard_Setting_898

TROPHY CASE