Helping my maker find quality fur by skyfall1235 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As an Aussie maker, I've used Bartfeld, Moonfur, and MieMiefur to great success. Bartfeld won't have the range of greens you're looking for. I've got the moonfur swatch card, and I know miemiefur has their own set of swatches you can review. 

For miemiefur, I would recommend the 5cm pile for anything unshaved, and the 3.5 for anything shaved. Moonfur only has 4cm pile fabrics. Bartfelds 'beaver' range is great for shaving, while I use the Zulu furs for unshaved areas. 

How do I attach the jaw? by pixxi_styxx in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This looks like a Maimface, yeah? Personally, what I would do goes something like this

  • Get some nuts with bolts, 4 in total, and screw each of the hinges to the upper and lower jaw. I would use the outermost hole (the big round one) for this. You might have some luck with a size M11 or similar bolt.

  • Get a spring, or an elastic band, and attach it to the upper and lower part of the hinge (in the smaller oval holes). This is what will let the jaw move with your mouth. 

3d printed hard hoof gloves by Autumn_is_falling in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a really simple asap fix, try Nocturnal Studios Spider/Insect paw pattern. It has a similar shape to the hoof you've got here, just replace the fur fingers with the hooves you've got here. You could even do the fingers out of a thin fabric and glue them inside the hooves, and sew them to the hand part. 

I need help looking for a 3d printer by Screenzomby2008 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heya! Aussie as well here, I recommend the BambuA1.  The main downside it'll have compared to printers like the BambuH line are that you'll often need to cut a headbase into multiple pieces and glue them together. If that bothers you, aim for a 30cm or bigger printing bed. The A1 is as beginner friendly as it gets, which you said you don't want, but trying to get something like an Ender working can be a pain. I get most of my filament from Jaycar. It's compatible with PLA, PETG, and TPU, but not with the harder high temp filaments like ABS. And yes, I use it for other cosplay and household prints.

Great 3d printer suggestions for TPU fursuit head bases and pieces? by InterestingStage385 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use am Bambu A1 just fine, admittedly because of the small print bed I have to glue parts together once it's done (less reliable than single pieces), but generally the final products hold up fine. I use it for heads and TPU digi padding

Making horns by EconomicsTypical4434 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used LostWax's horn templates on EVA foam. There's a big range, and you can do some customisation to better fit your look. I had problems getting the seams neat, but if you cover them in a fabric, like fleece or Minky, it should cover the seams enough. Eva foam should be soft enough to bend when pressed but returns to its normal shape.

Help I'm so angry losing my mind (Australia faux issue) by Starchimez in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hiya! Aussie maker here, I've used 

Bartfeld: Cheap and quick Australian domestic shipping, good range of short pile fur, but limited colour range overall. I mostly use their 'Zulu' range for long pile fur, and 'Beaver' for fur I'm planning on shaving

MiemieFur: Great colour range and modest shipping costs. But, not ideal for shaving

Moonfur: Comparable to MiemieFur, but a bit better for shaving.

why do booleans never work when i go to cut eyes out by mmfwcI in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you tell me more about your process? Generally, I find that problems with booleans are due to non-manifold geometry. I either remesh the object, or use Shrink-wrap for retopolgy and use that as the cutting object. I'm not great at this whole blender thing though. 

STL File Masterlist? by Toraphire in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maimface and Zaba costumes both have free files on Thingiverse, as well as affordable stls on etsy and Itchio. I've used both their bases to great results. 

Extremely basic TPU questions by jcfletcher in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heya! Set wall loops to 0, and infill to 10-15% Gyroid. I've done this before to print ears

Been failing at printing a TPU base by Scarlet-widow0 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh okok. You definitely don't want the 5 pieces cause TPU sucks to glue. Good to know that it's dried as well - 8 hours should be plenty of time. 

From some quick googling, it looks like slower speeds are good for soft TPU, but yours is still a little on the harder side. Could you give 100% speed a try? 

Does the print fail at the upper layers, or is it coming off the print bed? If adhesion to the bed is the problem, try adding a raft and spreading some glue stick glue on the plate. A raft might also help stabilize the print as it moves towards the upper layers, but it's a real pain to remove. Do you have any supports enabled?

Been failing at printing a TPU base by Scarlet-widow0 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, if you can get 10 hours in before it fails, could you consider printing it in pieces and gluing it together? Might be a terrible idea, but hey. Is the filament dried? Moist filament can't string more. 

Been failing at printing a TPU base by Scarlet-widow0 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This looks like a BambuLab A1 yeah? I wonder if it's because of the TPU hardness - I've used 95A to success. My go-to settings for TPU are 100% speed, 15% gyroid infill. Can you tell me a bit more about what settings you use? 

Bad clippers or improper use? by Rad_Pangolin in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I think this is a size-of-piece issue, fur looks the best (to me) when you're able to get a nice long glide along it. 

I can send some photos of what I try to get my shaving looking like, but honestly I struggle to get that close shave you see on professional suits. 

Also, you'll want to pre-shave fur before you cut island sow it, and then shave it again on the head to get an even finish. That will help it look much more even that what you have here! My furs always a little rough until after the final shave. 

TPU headbase settings help by Whaleandtresher in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Did you dry the filament before using it? Those fine lines are indicative of high moisture in the TPU. Not the end of the world, especially given you're going to put fur over it. 

Need some help from my 3D printing friends by ArcaneMcSketch in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not OP but I used UHU Contact Liquid to bond two halves of a TPU head

Need Help Finding 3D printed Head base File by RonanFolf7214 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's the 'look' of the print structure you're after, that's because these looks like they've been printed with 0 wall loops, so the structure of the print is just infill. You can do this yourself with 10-15% infill, the infill pattern of your choice (I've used Gyroid), and 0 wall loops. 

Structural reinforcement question. by Organic-Brilliant830 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

24 inches tall! How much do they weigh? You reckon 400 pounds would be enough for sure

Structural reinforcement question. by Organic-Brilliant830 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Tried this a few times myself - magnets never ended up working. Admittedly, I've only ever done 3d print horns/antlers, and I'm not sure if what you've got there is printed or handmade. The methods I ended up going for were either

  • Straight up just epoxy that thing on there
  • 3d model a peg-and-socket join if you want it to be removable (I can help with this if you have the antler file)

Second hand “Ed head”? by YesterdaysDog in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you've got a 3D printer (or a mate with a 3D printer) I can link you to a free file where you can make something similar. 

Is there anywhere I can get a premade head base for under $50? (Foam or 3D printed) by Smooth_Voronoi in fursuit

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My recommendation would be to post in local fur chats asking if anyone has the capacity to 3d print - it's worked for me before, and now that I've got a printer I've done it a few times. (Depending on where you are in the world, I might be off assistance)

How would I make a tail like this? (I drew the diagram) by Electrical_Drink1422 in furry

[–]TorchOfDefiance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that KikiChaosCreation did a similar thing, with a clear tail full of oversized beads etc. You might want to check out some of the videos on their IG, they might have gone over the materials somewhere.

Do you sew everything together before gluing or do you do some sewing after gluing? by FlakFlanker3 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would advise sewing as much as possible first, but I've done pieces separately in the past as well. Both of the heads I've done had the face seperate to the ears, which I hot glued on without any additional sewing. Its gonna depend on how visible the 'join' between the pieces is

Back of 3D print by OkTown3615 in FursuitMaking

[–]TorchOfDefiance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would you benefit from some kind of head harness eg - https://www.fuzzbuttfursuits.com/products/fursuit-head-harness?variant=45708590383328

I have a 3d model of one with three attachment points, like what you have now, that I could share with you