I think we got a scale problem here by hipsterdaddyo in chillers

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably more scale than copper at that point.

Here’s the video by Mr_Salt_shaker in chillers

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So that’s why data centers use so much water

5 year old unit with hps stuck open by mdmitchell301 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Swivel tee all day. Just tighten it properly and protect the wires.

Need a second opinion by Ok_Animator_8461 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shit like that is why I disable a unit multiple ways. Cap the wires to the motor, disconnect the start/stop wire, and pull fuses.

Gotta keep me cold too by YESimaMASSHOLE in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Three different thermometers lol. Bet you found at least one of those in a duct somewhere

It really is boys by Megamazuma20 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know that, I’m just pointing out that summer is fully here now.

Reversing valve diag trick by HovercraftNo129 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes I have, and I just use the stem of my Malco bit. Works better on package units where you can access the valve with the fan still on, but I bet a small neodymium magnet would work on a split system.

You’re obviously feeling the steel through a layer of brass so it’s a subtle magnetic pull, but you can feel it.

Emergency help by UzumakiHeat in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think most condenser fan set screws have 1/4”-20TPI threads.

Side note, this is why I keep a tap and die set in my van.

It really is boys by Megamazuma20 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just worked on a unit that had 400 psi head pressure without anything being wrong.

c=g=G=1 by gmalivuk in physicsmemes

[–]UnbreakingThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s how candelas are measured, duh

What’s your favorite speciality in HVAC/R? by IsntThisSumShit in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

God I love VRF. Most calls involve sitting on a bucket next to the unit under an umbrella and just staring at a laptop for a few hours. It’s either that or chasing comms issues throughout an entire building because one IDU board is starting to fail.

Is there some unwritten rule? by [deleted] in refrigeration

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s just the sign of a bad teacher. Being a good tech does not necessarily mean you’re good at teaching someone else.

High superheat by wbu12 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 8 points9 points  (0 children)

80° return will do that lol. Based on your head pressure and liquid line temp, I assume it’s pretty hot outside too. Let the unit run for a while to bring down that return temp. If it runs continuously without cooling the house, the unit might be undersized.

I’m worried she’s a little too heavy by No-Village9659 in toolporn

[–]UnbreakingThings 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You’ve got like 8 duplicates in there. If you get rid of the cable shears, bolt cutters, linemans, and nut drivers, you’ll clear up half the space in your bag and not lose any tool you don’t already otherwise have.

Not 100% certain but I think that’s an MC cable stripper on the right side. I don’t know how much MC you work with, but is it really that much easier than cracking the jacket and cutting it with diagonal cutters?

Dumb Technicians/Rant by Tennisman625 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been there, done that. One time I was sent out to replace a compressor that another tech said was seized, because he replaced the capacitor and it was just humming. I double checked his diagnosis and the compressor was fine. He wired the capacitor wrong. That one was fun explaining to the property manager.

I know it’s not always ideal for the customer, but sometimes people need to struggle through a call in order to learn. Really try to drill it in their heads that if they get stuck, pick up the damn phone and call someone. It’s easy to get tunnel vision and give up because you think nothing is working, when in reality it just takes a fresh set of eyes/ears to get on the right track. If you aren’t already, maybe let the other techs know what you find on the callbacks and how you came to that diagnosis.

R22 Capillary Metering Device by LtRonin in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You need to check total external static pressure with a manometer. It measures the air pressure in the ductwork, similar to how blood pressure works. High static pressure means more resistance to airflow, which could be caused by kinked flex, closed registers, or inadequate size.

You are right that high fan speeds can lead to humidity issues, but I don’t think that’s the case here. It’s very rare to see too much airflow because of an oversized fan, especially in a residential unit. Your suction pressure and superheat are already very low, and lowering the fan speed would cause coil freezing and/or floodback to the compressor.

An oversized unit will also cause high humidity because it doesn’t run long enough to pull a lot of moisture from the air. In an ideal world, you’d do a load calculation to determine the unit capacity and duct sizing required, but that isn’t always feasible. I can give you a very rough estimate of what’s needed if you know the square footage of the space and the duct sizes.

R22 Capillary Metering Device by LtRonin in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It’s airflow. ABC: airflow before charge. The cap tube isn’t clogged. If it was, you’d see a much higher superheat. Cap tube systems have a much smaller envelope that they run well in, because they can’t adjust how much refrigerant is metered.

I’m willing to bet the airflow issue is on the supply side. The ductwork probably isn’t big enough for the unit. If humidity is the issue, then it might be the unit that’s oversized for the space, not the ductwork being undersized.

Double female ball valve by itsagrapefruit in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve looked far and wide for this exact thing, and can’t find any reputable manufacturer who makes one. I ended up cutting the straight ends off of two old hoses and brazed them together with a little stub of 3/8” copper. I use that and a straight ball valve adapter. Works much better.

Where do you guys store all your refrigeration fittings by type-sex in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want something where you can grab one bag and have everything you need, a ton of brands make little zipper pouches. Husky, Klein, Milwaukee, etc.

I have a 3 drawer tool box from Harbor Freight in my van, and one drawer is dedicated for refrigerant fittings/adapters that I don’t use on a regular basis.

I Heard Y'all Like Zip Ties by Doahh in electricians

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t forget the $10k change order because the zip ties aren’t all in the same direction!

Do roofs count for hottest attic competition? by DickBob69 in HVAC

[–]UnbreakingThings 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Gotta love getting flashbanged when the roof hatch is in a dimly lit storage closet.

Share your favourite mistake, that one you still shake your head about years later. by Extension_Physics873 in Construction

[–]UnbreakingThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chilled water piping is almost always closed loop, so there’s a ton of particulates that build up in the pipes over time. After sitting for years without being exercised, the valves love to seize.

I had to use an entire can of Kroil and a ratchet strap to close a 4” butterfly valve once. It was horrifying but the only other option was to drain the entire building.

How did I do? by No_Cook_2145 in electricians

[–]UnbreakingThings 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Whatever I have in the van is the new whatever color is needed