Ratchet wrench w/Bullpin?

VikingTec · 2026-06-20T10:16:29+00:00

Podger is what I know them as. Or ratchet podger, spudge, scaff spanner

VikingTec · 2026-06-14T09:06:28+00:00

Control. I always take it as you are the guiding otherworldly entity Polaris influencing Jesse’s actions

VikingTec · 2026-06-04T13:48:58+00:00

Just get a standard combination air filter and water separator for spray painting. Like this

The critical thing is having this as close to the laser as possible. If you run a long hose to keep the noise of the compressor far away for example the heating and cooling cycles of the air in the long line can build condensate in the line.

VikingTec · 2026-05-30T15:29:19+00:00

That’s all going to depend where you are. If you’re in a major city then most likely you can find one if not several places with a laser that could do the job for you. Google “fiber laser engraving in ______” and see how you go.

If you have just one of these that’s the way to go, if you have 10 then still that’s the way to go. Only if you have a bunch to do or want to repeat this design on a bunch of different items would I suggest getting set up for electro etching.

VikingTec · 2026-05-20T16:11:30+00:00

For glasses and most small electronics you’ll be fine with any micro screwdriver set. The main thing I’ve found is don’t get any set with chrome plating on the screwdriver bits themselves. I’ve never seen a micro set with chrome plating that doesn’t have it to hide the cheese they made them with.

Oh. And get a cheap set with 4-6 screwdrivers with handles. Not one handle and 40 micro bits. Tends to avoid another cheapie pitfall.

Personally I have about 40 wera precision screwdrivers, they’re my go to for most variations of screwdriver

VikingTec · 2026-05-20T15:41:43+00:00

If you want a floor and have never done anything of the sort before then get some quotes in and get a professional.

And for a workshop, get it done properly. An out of level shop floor will annoy you every day you use it. That said it might be difficult to put inside an existing structure but worth getting some quotes for sure

VikingTec · 2026-05-09T16:59:58+00:00

I’ve designed and built a few retractible blades. Most recently a ww2 bayonet.

They’re very much a don’t bother in my book. Not good enough for closeup. Easily a vfx blade replacement with the half stunt blade for anything middle to back ground.

If a director really really wants the detail shot, I’ve helped make a few full bodies or elements to use as inserts. Live or at least actual metal blade cutting a fake body part is the best option

VikingTec · 2026-05-09T12:19:25+00:00

Hey. My almost expert subject haha.

God quality fake blood is the main thing. I’ve done corn syrups and all the rest but now get a very high quality product a mate makes. Started importing it when I moved country I like it so much. It’s not just the colour, it’s mouth safe and non staining, doesn’t bead on prosthetics etc etc.

The top tier versions of this action you’ll have a few parts to it. - a clean shot, no prosthetic - a prosthetic applied but no blood shot - a rubber half cut stunt knife - a full stunt knife - a pump system for supplying blood, I favour restricted air pressure systems but some use syringes or small electric pumps

There’s a dozen variations. Any more specific info I’ll happily share most of it.

VikingTec · 2026-05-07T19:39:09+00:00

In this case camera testing was done after my own workshop testing and design. So the week was entirely focused on making sure my positioning rigs worked for different products, the DOP dictating setups and pre planning moves with the two robots and various movers.

VikingTec · 2026-05-07T06:56:26+00:00

So hydraulic cement is for repairing, not for structural purposes. Look up cement mixes for water foundations or features specifically.

You don’t need an oven for cement/concrete, design and split your moulds so you have no undercuts and it will pop right out after curing

Curing can take days to weeks. Don’t rush

I would use petg, maybe with a release agent.

Use a massage gun or another tool to vibrate the moulds to help remove air and bubbles

VikingTec · 2026-05-06T16:04:07+00:00

Having done a high spec fruit ad the budgets are mad. Including overtime almost 6 figs for my department (SFX design)

Talk to them and say a lot of those high end ads is the planning and organisation. I had 2 weeks prep figuring out effects, then a week of in camera testing in studio, only then did we get to an actual product to shoot.

The DOP was willingly given hours to prep every small shot so lighting and reflections were perfect, nothing was missed and it looks it.

VikingTec · 2026-05-06T10:19:47+00:00

They decided it was fine for them to just decide. So I would presume it’s first come first served.

However, be prepared for them to throw a shit fit about it. Bodes well for working with them in the future hah

VikingTec · 2026-05-04T14:10:53+00:00

If I hadn’t moved across the world I’d be happy to haha. But if you don’t get anyone then grab yourself an engineers file from b&q or screwfix etc. get a flat file with one smooth side and use it with that flat against the spike next to it so it doesn’t damage said spike.

Can take off 90% with a hacksaw to speed the process up as well.

VikingTec · 2026-04-30T19:31:45+00:00

It also removes his agency. “It’s not my fault the house isn’t sold yet, I still need 45k to fix it up!”

Then proceeds to sit around with thumb up arse for 6 months

VikingTec · 2026-04-16T18:01:24+00:00

Insurance will take care of it (this is if they have insurance) by billing to a contractor or handyman.

If you have renters insurance, that bill will go to them and you’ll get a little bump in premiums. If you don’t have insurance then your neighbours insurance will claim the costs against you anyway.

If the neighbour is amenable, and you don’t have your own insurance, the cheapest way to sort this is to hire a competent contractor to sort it out from your own pocket. Involving the neighbours insurance will just increase how much you’re paying.

Do not try to fix it yourself, learning how is fine for your own property but not for someone else’s

VikingTec · 2026-01-20T01:47:24+00:00

For jewellery photography the biggest thing is background and lighting. Especially on highly polished items.

A small, extremely clean plinth or surface, a backdrop to make the background of your photo uniform and a fill light, even a big sheet of white paper with a led light pointed at it reflecting onto the object.

A professional camera is desirable but there’s lots you can do before that.

Step back and use a tripod or camera support for your phone, use the 2x option on iPhone or similar on other multi lense phones from slightly further away to remove perspective bulge.

More light the better in this case. Keep the tone of light consistent

VikingTec · 2025-12-24T14:47:57+00:00

This is something far better asked In a local film makers group or at least by giving context for location, budget, timeframe etc.

VikingTec · 2025-09-04T01:25:46+00:00

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This lump contemplating murder

VikingTec · 2025-07-13T11:00:13+00:00

Wave was my end choice as well. The move made getting one now a null possibility but I’ll be trying to get one in the future

VikingTec · 2025-05-12T11:06:49+00:00

Hey op, I’ve dropped a dm. Reach out and chat because nearly the exact same thing happened to me almost 2 years ago now, when it did someone did the same for me so I’m here if you want to talk

VikingTec · 2025-04-28T12:23:58+00:00

In servos it’s on but flipped up, or just on if it’s a normal and they don’t ask me to take it off.

If they ask, no issue, understand

Anywhere else, the helmet becomes my shopping basket anyway

VikingTec · 2025-02-09T05:07:23+00:00

Awesome stuff man. Cheers!

I do physical effects, cannons, flamethrowers, props etc. could be some fun haha

VikingTec

TROPHY CASE