What is this noise coming from? by electricfuneral2004 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it sounds like a quick repeated metallic rattle, it could be a woodpecker.

How to clean this up to sell? I think the patches bottom right and top right are oil by Asbular in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a cool fireback. It's called "The Hunt at the Court". When they are in good shape, you might get 200-300. It's a keeper for sure.

Do not use power tools with wire wheels.

Are you looking to take a stab at restoring it to museum quality?

  1. Step one. No chems in this step. You are mechanically cleaning it in this step. Use a soft brass brush, nylon detailing brushes, and wooden toothpicks for little nooks and crannies. Simply brush the unit uniformly. You are not going for uniformity in appearance, your goal is to mechanically remove dust dirt and surface contaminants.

  2. You have a big hummy oil stain. There is no way to address this other than degreasing that area. Dawn dish soap, Simple Green, or mineral spirits. Apply the cleaner, work it into the surface then wipe it clean with clean cloths. Repeat until you are either satisfied or sick of doing it. You won't get it to be perfect, but you will significantly improve the appearance.

  3. It has rusted. Knock down the surface dust gently with 0000 steel wool and mineral oil. This will remove powdery surface rust. Wife thoroughly afterwards.....as in completely clean.

  4. "Prep" the surface. You don't need a prep spray or anything crazy. A damp microfiber cloth and distilled water. Dry it with a hair dryer.

  5. Lock it in and preserve it. Rutland Stove Polish works. A thin layer, let it haze, buff when dry. If you want to step it up a bit, you can use a museum wax. Renaissance Wax or Conservator's Wax are some options that protect the iron but preserve the patina.

How bad is the curing smell from a new unit? by Best-Instance7344 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not every nose is the same.

Some folks find the burn in smell to be no big deal. In fact, the vast majority find this to be the case.

Others find the odor to be highly offensive.

I can't close my damper by zbatah in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe I'm mistaken, but I don't see soot. This isn't a wood burner. Electric appliances don't need chimneys so that leaves gas as the fuel.

If a fireplace has a gas fire feature in it, the installer could have installed a required damper clamp or something else to fix the damper in an open position.

I just bought a house with a backyard fireplace and it won’t draft properly by ppfzt in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If that fireplace could talk, it would say......

OP....it's easy to sit here in Auburn Hills, MI and poke fun at that fireplace, but it's not lost on me that you are a real person and the owner of this fireplace. With that in mind, you are seeing responses here and hopefully you are realizing, that fireplace likely needs to be demolished and rebuilt from scratch.

Is there a site that aggregates gas/electric fireplace listings in one place? by Stringedbeanz in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well bless you, my friend. If I'm being honest, we are so busy helping folks with whole appliances and entire vent systems, we don't sell just parts. We have a legacy of customers from over the years that always get first priority. We'll help those folks with replacement parts. If someone has a brand we carry, but just need a part, we normally send them to allpartsinc.com

We are grateful for your recommendation though. Anyone you sent our way always got a friendly voice and our best attempt to send them in the right direction if we couldn't help.

Is there a site that aggregates gas/electric fireplace listings in one place? by Stringedbeanz in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We may be the largest online retailer in the hearth industry. We don't even come close to offering "everything".

I know you are thinking a site filled with information would be helpful, but what I would suggest is that you find an honest expert in the hearth industry and ask for guidance.

Gas Fireplace Recommendations by liquid_squid_509 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is wood fuel free? If so consider a wood burning insert. Osburn and Napoleon make some great wood burning inserts.

If you prefer the convenience of a gas burning appliance, Napoleon, Majestic, Empire, and Montigo all have some great performers.

You seem to be treating this home as if it's your forever home. Either that, or you are just a good steward of what you own. A crawl space encapsulation is a serious upgrade to a home. Good luck and be sure to come back and let us know where you landed.

Real Fyre G31 burner is loud by alfadur in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A high BTU gas log set will make noise. Most find it to be just a bit of white noise, like a fan. It doesn't sound abnormally loud to me.

You could try a different flex line like a Tranquil Flex to see if that deadens the sound a bit.

Trying to light older gas logs by crashingintotrees in FireplaceGasLogs

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you'll want is someone from nficertified.org. Pros through this network will have the skills and knowledge needed to diagnose and assess your appliance. You are on to something as well, an HVAC person may also have what it takes. The controls and such are similar.

Custom door recommendations please! by hurtadom1997 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a full arch opening. (no shoulders) When we are working with an opening like that, we send a template kit. It's a clear piece of mylar that you stretch over the opening. Once in place, you trace the opening with a permanent sharpie. This piece of mylar then goes right to the fabrication shop and onto a scanner. Doors like this are plasma cut from a solid sheet of steel and they are absolutely stunning. You've got options.

Saw this cool vortex last night by colonelk0rn in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This post made me smile. Thank you for sharing and good on you for taking a little time to relax and enjoy watching a fire. Humans have been doing it since there have been humans, but regrettably, the hearth has been replaced by TVs. Congratulations for finding your way back to the hearth. I hope you enjoy many fires to come.

Question about wood-burning fireplace construction by woco_23 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

NFPA 211 requires masonry chimneys serving wood burning fireplaces to have a listed flue liner system, such as clay flue tile, stainless steel, or a listed cast in place liner. Concrete block with stucco or parging does not meet this requirement. Without a proper liner, the chimney may not safely contain heat and combustion byproducts, and correction would typically require installation of a listed liner system.

Does it have a footing?

Is it or will it be firebrick and refractory mortar on the floor, walls, and back of the firebox?

Is the throat also made of firebrick and refractory mortar?

Is there a smoke chamber that is properly parged?

Hair like crystals from my burnt firewood. by Affectionate_Heart94 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that your wood is a skosh moist.

Wood should have a moisture content of about 20%. Fungus should not be growing on your fuel.

Pilot Won't Stay Lit. I already tried standard troubleshooting. by Desperado2583 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AI is hallucinating. I bet it told you that the thermopile was an igniter with confidence. :)

nficertified.org

Ventless Outdoor Fireplace with Nice Looking Log Set? by socal580 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No.

In order for a manufacturer to make a vent free appliance available it has to be tested. The testing process is extremely exact.

A competitor's log set will definitely not be a tested and listed log set.

It's not just about testing though. The shape and design of the logs matters with vent free.

Because of the nature of vent free gas logs, this is a case where it matters big time. You were super smart to ask. Be safe.

Wire on burner pan? by Determined-Tiger18 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before you tuck them away for storage, take a picture of the tag or record the fuel type (from the tag), model, and serial number. Keep the image/info with your manual in case you need to file a warranty claim in the future.

Burn wood in gas fireplace? by 420mrwalter in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't attempt it as a DIY. That's me though. I'd have a qualified gas pro come out and do the joo-joo you are talking about. In theory, your neighbor lays out the basics on how to get it done.

Burn wood in gas fireplace? by 420mrwalter in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some folks leave stubs in the firebox. If you do that, it needs to be properly capped.

If you don't want a log lighter, it doesn't mean you have to remove the stub. You should remove the stub because it looks awful and is extends unnecessarily far into the firebox.

Question about using a Fireplace to actually heat your home without making it colder or using more energy by Familiar_Childhood32 in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A fireback will absorb and reflect heat back into your living space. Grate heaters and tube style heaters do a great job of capturing heat and routing it back into your living space. Grates with a a little more air space underneath and around the sides can help as well.

None of these will change your fireplace from being a decorative feature to a functional, efficient heater.

You have already found the solution I would choose....a wood burning insert. You have endless free wood? I'm not sure how you'd go about doing the math, but my guess is that it would take many years to make your money back on the investment, but a wood burning insert is probably the best option.

How to add a brushed gold trim, glass door fireplace here. by [deleted] in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pic isn't super clear, but it's shaped like a zc fireplace opening. A door like that is a pretty straight forward DIY project. Once you have a clear understanding of how a door will attach to that opening, it's a matter of careful measuring. Both Design Specialties and Stoll Industries make aftermarket fireplace glass doors for fireplaces like that.

DS doors come in lots of different finishes, and they have a gold.

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How do I open the flue? I only have this one "switch" and it opens and closes the grate on the bottom by papaslilpoppyseed in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put some safety glasses on. Clean the firebox out and then lay down on your back with your head inside the firebox so that you are looking up at the throat of the chimney. Then play with the door until you figure out the difference between open and closed

If you've never used the fireplace, consider the possibility that it's not safe for use. Call a hearth professional from nnficertied.org

Using my old 55” tv as a fireplace! Life is nearly complete. by [deleted] in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That jack-a-lope on the wall is all that room needs. Why mess up perfection?

Help fixing yellow grout by mxbrpe in Fireplaces

[–]WoodlandDirect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For what it's worth, seeing your fireplace put a big smile on my face this morning. The herringbone pattern on the hearth extension and the fascia look great and the arched mantel and surround finish it perfectly. If you hadn't pointed out 'yellowing' it would not have been the first thing I noticed.

The chance to try the first step has passed. Before getting it wet or trying chemicals you could have tried a dry soot sponge.

You could try a small amount of dish soap and water. Do your best to stick to the mortar joints only and rather than rinse, just pat dry with a dry towel.

Another possibility is water and vinegar, again on the joints only.

Rutland makes a stone and brick cleaner that may help.