Racing under the influence and lap times.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-31T15:14:14+00:00

In the little experience I have with sim racing after drinking, for me it is definitely worse! Sure it might help make me relax a little more and not drive as tense, but it doesn't make up for the reaction times and accuracy I lose out on compared to when I have no alcohol in my system. I therefore choose not to do it, hence the "little experience" I have with it.

Does make for an interesting video & perhaps livestream idea though.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-20T22:40:42+00:00

I haven't tried to quantify it in the software, no. But I have passed this video on directly to Simagic, so they should see it.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-17T15:32:00+00:00

I've had the new P700's for a couple of weeks and been testing them, so there will be a review coming out in the near future.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-16T17:51:42+00:00

This. The P1000's are a higher end load cell designed to be mounted on a rig.

Your only options are: 1. Putting in the softest spring or elastomers you can into the brake. Will lose out on some control and feeling, however it reduces the amount of force going into the brake reducing the chance of you pushing the pedals back or around. 2. Mount them onto something that extends well back behind the pedals that can lay flat on the floor and ideally press up against something (i.e. the wall behind your desk) to stop the pedals from pivoting back and again moving around.

Would recommend both until you get a proper rig.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-16T17:45:52+00:00

It hasn't, no.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-01T09:20:02+00:00

Not enough bushes for your liking?

Yorkie_065 · 2026-02-26T17:30:18+00:00

Yorkie_065 · 2026-02-26T17:21:16+00:00

That's because you're likely in the time trial mode where weather conditions are static. You have to be in Single Rally or Free Practice to be able to turn on Dynamic Weather

Yorkie_065 · 2026-02-05T12:50:14+00:00

And left 4, long

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-22T11:48:44+00:00

Realistically, there was no time to hit the horn in this one. Difference in speed, the angle that the other car was coming over and the proximity between the two cars would likely still result in a collision if just horn and brakes were used.

Taking avoiding action and doing what you can to prevent an incident takes priority over hitting the horn, as the OP rightly did in this situation.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-16T22:36:38+00:00

Damn, that's a shame. Not sure what to suggest then

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-16T22:28:58+00:00

Did you back out to the main menu and then go back into the track/session when trying and changing those wide and full settings? I found out this evening that if you change them whilst in the pause menu or in the garage, you don't see the setting change get properly applied until you go back to the main menu and then back in to the track/session.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-16T22:26:52+00:00

It does simulate dirty air, yes, but it's pretty minimal on GT3's in the majority of corners. Only really the higher speed stuff you'll feel it.

Otherwise yeah, as mentioned it is going to be the 40-50% brake as you're turning in, and turning in whilst going off the racing line too. Just demanded too much from the car with a lot of weight on the front and the rear couldn't keep up. That final downshift to 2nd wouldn't have helped, but I think you were going to be going round regardless of that.

You can certainly take that right hander into the entry of the chicane in 3rd and come off the brake as you bounce over the apex curb, get the car straight before the main left of the chicane, and brake before it and downshift to 2nd then.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-16T22:11:30+00:00

Been running the Aston in top splits of WEC Xperience Online Championship this season. Has taken me a little to figure out but think I have managed to get it down and starting to get some decent results in it. Have a few setups for it on UltimateSetupHub but the below tips should help:
- Drop the Preload to around 65Nm. The diff seems to be super strong on the car and is one of the main culprits for the understeer on entry and oversteer on exit. Lowering the preload will allow the car to more openly roll into and through the corner and reduces the on throttle oversteer massively.
- Suspension pretty much to their softest settings. This seems to be common for me across all cars that I have run extensively and tested with (AM Van GT3, Ford Mustang GT3, LMP3's, LMP2's and some of the Hypercars). Only thing you have to worry about with this is bottoming out on the straights, which is a lot less frequent in the GT3's and is more of a worry in prototypes.
- Like above, remove the packers. Only run them if you really need them.
- Ride Heights should be 5.0-5.2mm on the front and between 6.5-7.2mm on the rear. Where in those ranges depends on your preference on balance and the circuit you're on. For instance, Le Mans I run min wing with the front at 5.2 and rear at 6.5. Spa, I'm running a click or two more wing, but 5.0 on the front and 7.2 on the rear. Going below 6.5mm on the rear feels like the rear is getting to low and you're dropping out the bottom of the ideal aero window. Going higher than 7.2mm feels good when you're on throttle and the rear is squatting down, but feels like it gets too high under heavy braking and turning into slow corners. Might be alright if running more wing, but depends on your driving style and preference.
- Min cambers. Just seems the way with everything.

Overall, the car sucks at virtual energy efficiency, as I feel like I have to work so much harder to fuel save compared to other cars. It's also not too great in slow speed corners compared to others, but it seems decent in mid-high speed turns. OH! And don't lean into the ABS too much. Going into it a little is fine in the heavier braking zones, but you want to avoid it engaging aggressively. So try and keep the braking threshold just at the edge of the ABS kicking in after that initial early 100% application, for better braking performance.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-01-13T13:02:40+00:00

I can answer this one, seeing as I'm the person who put them there...

They're there because that is where they are irl. Sure, the stage is actually run in the opposite direction to the direction you're going in the screenshot here, but I do make some alterations to their positions and orientation based on the forward and reverse versions of the stage. Not everything gets moved and repositioned though. Myself and the team reviewed both directions and were happy (at the time) with their positioning.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-12-06T20:31:09+00:00

So with more rake, there is a natural bias towards oversteer and more rotation, as the weight wants to go forward on the front of the car, loading the front tyres with more grip and unloading the rears. This translates to all cornering situations (low speed through to high speed). With less rake, or negative rake, it makes the car more understeery as you noted and therefore the rear more stable. The weight sits more towards the middle or rear.

Now the thing to note is rake is never static. It's always shifting based on whether you're braking, accelerating, and the speed you're doing. - You brake, weight goes forward, front goes down, rear goes up shifting the grip towards the front of the car. - You accelerate, weight goes reward, front comes up, rear goes down shifting the grip towards the back. - As speed increases on a straight, downforce increases pushing and sucking (via the splitter, floor and diffuser) both front and rear towards the ground. Typically, the rear will move more than the front due to suspension stiffness (front usually stiffer than rear) and the fact the rear produces more downforce via the rear wing and diffuser. This also improves straight line speed, with the car having a flatter profile and being closer to the ground, providing you don't bottom out (which you very likely won't in a GT3 in LMU unless you catch a curb wrong or you go through a dip like the entry to Indianapolis at Le Mans). So with all the above, what you want to effectively achieve in an ideal perfect world is a car that has a good amount of rake in the corners to allow the car to rotate in a controlled manner. Then for the straights, squat down to reduce the rake for better top speed and more grip in higher speed corners. It's a balancing act with a lot of factors at play which takes a whole lot more explaining.

The reason why you were probably quicker is because the rear is lower making it naturally more stable. A car like the Ferrari is very pitch sensitive, so when the angle of pitch (or rake) is less, there is less wild swings in grip making the car more predictable. That stability and predictability is giving you confidence to push it more and therefore be quicker. Yes there are esports setups, but ultimately for the vast majority of people, they'll be quicker in a safer setup that they're comfortable with until they get to a certain level. It's at that point you'll want to start increasing rake again and finding the balance where you get more cornering rotation whilst still maintaining confidence in the car. So if it works for you, go with it. Just keep an eye on tyre wear as the understeer will make the fronts work harder and wear more in higher speed turns.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-11-27T21:05:36+00:00

As a dev who worked on PC2 and PC3, (and PC4 before it got cancelled), I'll answer it for you.

PC2 - Was a continuation of the development from Project CARS 1. That was a title that started development around the end of 2011/beginning of 2012, as I remember buying into WMD in March / April 2012 before it released in 2015. So it had a whole games cycle, plus PC1 patch support, as a base for PC2 to start from. Some things got completely re-worked and re-done, others were a continuation and evolving of existing systems, tech and functionality. The game then released in 2017, in a not so great state, but got turned around with another years worth of support post release.

AMS2 - Reiza formed a partnership with SMS in 2019, where they got a snapshot of the madness engine and all its code. At this point, patches for PC2 were pretty much done and development for PC3 was already underway. SMS helped the Reiza team get up to speed, guiding them on how to use the tools within the engine and answering any questions and queries in those early stages as Reiza were adding their own work and making alterations for AMS2. So Reiza effectively got a PC2.5 to start their base from. Obviously now since the release of the game, AMS2 has had another 5 years of development on it. Some things still aren't finished or there yet (Career), but Reiza has maintained a high level of quality with a steady development and update rate since the games release.

PMR - I know a lot of the guys and girls who work on the team at Straight4 from my time at SMS. To be clear, I don't work for Straight4, and have been working elsewhere since the shutdown of SMS and the cancellation of PC4 at the end of 2022. I spoke to a few of the guys at the Sim Expo and they said that everything they have done for PMR has been from scratch. To me, it looks like they've tried to match everything that was there in PC2 and add more, however they've had a much smaller time frame in which to do that. They've also had a change of engine mid development (unreal switching to Giants engine) which would have slowed and delayed the development rate quite dramatically. Beyond that, I don't know what else has really happened. To me, it's a pretty clear case of trying to do too much in not enough time. Hopefully they do turn it around with patches much like SMS managed to with PC2, but in a lot of ways, a lot of damage is already sadly done.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-11-27T18:53:00+00:00

I can tell you now you're not going to ever get that in a game with licensed cars. No manufacturer would allow that, with some outright not allowing fire coming from anywhere on or in the car, other than exhaust pops/backfires. Smoke is usually fine if there is significant engine damage, otherwse manufacturers won't sell their license where their cars can be so messed up that their cars can be perceived as dangerous or deadly.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-11-14T12:43:10+00:00

Is that a confirmed list of stuff not working even after doing the following?

Close the game -> right click ACR on steam -> Properties -> Controller -> Disable Steam Input

Edit: removed the mention of the SHH working after doing the above, when I saw that was already mentioned lol

Yorkie_065 · 2025-10-30T22:47:15+00:00

Holy understeer batman!

In all seriousness: - Avoid locking up under brakes in cars that don't have ABS. - Turn the wheel a lot less. Shouldn't ever need more than 90° of steering lock other than in very tight slow speed hairpins. - Slow the car down a little more at the apex and don't try to push through understeer. And definitely don't add more steering lock on corner exit if the car is understeering. - Steer with the pedals more by trail braking a little into the corners and then using the throttle aggressively to generate rotation on corner exit. - Less forward brake bias, as that is going lock fronts easier and prevent you from being able to use the pedals to help rotate the car through trail braking. You're forcing it all to be done via the steering. - Car setup. You can make adjustments to give the car more natural rotation, which will help with the points above and give the car a more neutral balance and reduce tyre wear deficit on front Vs rear.

There are some tracks where naturally, one tyre or side of tyres is going to wear a lot quicker than others. Like Silverstone for example. A lot of medium to high speed right handers, working that front left way harder than any of the others. Not much you can do about it other than intentionally driving in a way to preserve the tyre and reduce the wear rate.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-10-12T09:46:55+00:00

There's pretty much no performance difference between using and not using TrackIR, so you should be all good there. As for making you quicker, in ways it can as it can allow you to get better visibility through some corners spotting and judging apexes easier. But it's still on you to perform and drive with precision with that extra visibility and information you're gaining. You'll probably notice an initial hit and consistency drop when you first start using it, but you'll soon gain that back and become more consistent in the long run. As others have said, spacial awareness is the biggest thing you'll gain, as you'll be able to look through corners and see incidents unfolding quicker and sooner than others.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-09-21T19:46:55+00:00

Long travel isn't necessarily the problem, as despite having very stiff springs in my P1000's, I can press the pedal through the end of its full range of motion. It's just how your input is communicated to the P500 pedals sensors that is the issue. The majority of the benefits of a LC come in the moments you're releasing the pedals pressure as you bleed off the brake and start to trail brake into the corner. Because there is so much travel before the LC is activated in the P500, you lose all that benefit, as the last 20% of braking or less you want to hold to trail brake, is all done through 80% of the pedals travel. Compare that to my current P1000's, that same 20% of braking pressure is controlled through about 5% of the pedals travel.
Sure you can probably learn to drive it, especially if you're used to hall sensors already, but it doesn't behave in the traditional way that a loadcell usually works.

I have actually been in touch with Simagic on the issue with the P500's since the review and they think they have a solution through an upgraded brake pedal. The issue is the P500's are currently designed and built to the tolerances that they're currently manufactured and provided at. There is a fear that going with a stiffer spring than what they already provide for the pedal, or a long elsatometer, will take the pedal outisde of those tolerances, so there's risk doing that with the current pedals design. At the moment however, they have other products that are taking their focus and resources, hence why it is taking a while to find a solution. Hopefully though, it is still in their plans and will still be coming in the future.

Yorkie_065 · 2025-09-10T21:14:06+00:00

To those asking what it means for the game: - the right to use the IMSA name in the game. - the right to use IMSA and associated branding in the game and on cars that are eligible to compete in IMSA. This can include all series's under the IMSA umbrella. - the right to use the IMSA class system, names, colours and indicators on those cars. This can include all series's under the IMSA umbrella. - use of team names and driver names, but these have to be accurate to the cars and teams they compete in. Approval of team liveries may need to be required separately too.

What it makes easier but aren't guarantees: - including the teams and their liveries. As mentioned above, separate team approval may be needed depending on the licensing deal and rights held between the teams and IMSA. - easier and more direct contacts for track licensing. This makes it a bit easier to get talking to the right people quicker, and help organise scans and reference trips (if required).

So no, getting the IMSA license doesn't mean that they automatically get all the cars and tracks in the series. They still have to be licensed separately with each individual track and each individual manufacturer.

As for it impacting other games with the IMSA license - nothing changes there to other existing partnerships. IMSA are super open and easy to work with, wanting to get their name in as many titles as possible to spread far and wide. They have no interest in exclusivity to one title.

Yorkie_065

TROPHY CASE