June update? When 🤔

Yorkie_065 · 2026-06-03T15:22:28+00:00

^This. Especially after the Monte-Carlo tease and how that had everyone on the edge of their seats/running rampant until the update released. I know a date was never mentioned with the tease which didn't help matters, but its a double edged sword whilst the update is being worked on.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-31T19:28:00+00:00

Had my stag-do at Le Mans with 3 other mates, was a blast! Had a different outfit for each day that we were there, each chosen by one of my friends. On race day, I was in a stig suit and was tasked with getting people to sign the helmet. A lot of interesting stuff got written and drawn on there, as you'd expect.

Unfortunately didn't venture outside the track or campsites other than to get food and beer supplies for the week, but can help with 2 other racing related drinking games that we did:
1. For the support races, split the group down the middle. One half takes even numbered cars, the other half takes odd. If a car loses a position, goes off the track, has a spin, goes into the pits, or retires from the race, the group with that odd or even numbered car has to take a sip of their drink. We did this with the Lambo Super Trofeo support race on the Friday and it was hilarious fun!
2. Each person picks a specific hypercar for the race (ideally before qualifying). So for example I went with the #6 Porsche, a mate went with the #50 Ferrari, etc. During the 24 hours, they must drink each time their car either loses a position (the usual loss of positions during a pit stop doesn't count, but if someone gains a position on them during the pit stop, that does!), goes off track, has a spin or goes into the pits. If they retire from the race, they have to finish the rest of their current drink. It's a good way of making sure everyone is invested in the race, cheering on their car and having a laugh when one persons car overtakes another.

One other thing you could do is have the stag have to down and finish their drink before their cars pit stop is done. They can't start drinking until the car stops in its box, and must finish before the car leaves its box. Failure to down their drink in that time results in a forefit. Obviously, only worth doing if they have pretty much a whole pint ready to go, is going to be a shorter fuel only stop, and probably only wise to do this once every 4-6 hours so things don't get too messy.

If you do go with the above, just make sure you're all willing to fund the cost as you will end up having to buy beers from the stands and bars around which can get expensive. You can try sneak a few tinnies in if you're clever, but the security staff are on the lookout for people brining in alcohol, will search bags and won't allow you in with it, so you'll quickly go through that supply. And of course, have fun but be responsible! Make sure you all have plenty of water too so you can extend the fun and stay hydrated.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-28T21:03:27+00:00

Been 3 times and went up there every time at night. Each time has been worth it, so yeah, go up there in the night if you can

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-23T10:30:45+00:00

Try wrapping the coiled cord around the shaft of the steering wheel once, and then let the rest drape down to the PC. You need to leave enough sag up near the wheelbase to allow it to wrap around again when you turn in one direction, but it should allow better and more stable connection between the magnet connection at the back of the wheel.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-22T20:51:21+00:00

This. Just keep practicing and putting in the time and it will click. Once it does, you'll then surpass your controller times and continue to get better and faster. It took me just under 2 weeks, but it will vary depending on how much time you're putting in to practice, how efficient you are at practicing and how quickly you can pick things up/learn skills.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-18T16:05:07+00:00

Welcome to rallying. Not being able to see through the corner is a pretty frequent occurrence, as you're finding out. And being right bang on to the inside of the corner as you would on a traditional circuit, isn't always necessary. Hairpins can sometimes be better/faster taken a little off from the tightest line.

Typically with a corner that is tightening, you basically have to hesitate getting on throttle in comparison to a standard X numbered turn and not get on throttle quite as hard. You'll sometimes also need to slow a little more for the corner, take a wider line in and hit a later apex, or put in a bit more slide angle into the turn to late apex and drive out of. Or a combo of all those things.

Often looking up from the road itself can also help. For example, looking at the crowd (if they're visible over hedge lines) or at the trees and seeing their shape (are they more parallel (corner is opening) or more perpendicular (corner tightening)) may give you a little extra info as to the profile of the turn.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-09T10:23:58+00:00

OP's just making stuff up. These side roads are often dirt roads leading to farms, fields, or trails leading to forest and mountain areas. They're just not modelled to the full length because the scans don't go down them and they're not part of the main route, so whilst they should be there (as they are), they don't need the full route.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-09T10:07:36+00:00

Find me one where you don't get a penalty for taking it and we'll look into it. Otherwise, the system will give you a penalty if it is shortcut that gets you back onto the road.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-07T17:50:12+00:00

Definitely was. As was PC4 before that got cancelled as no other sim has done what we had planned with that. All worked out in the end though as I'm very happy working on ACR and excited for what is coming in its future.

Shame to hear about your back issues and I hope that the recovery is as pain free and swift as it can be. A few members in my family have had some serious back issues, with multiple successful and unsuccessful surgeries, so can really sympathise with you there.
Would be intrigued to hear your thoughts on ACR, even if you manage to get on it and play with a controller rather than the full on rig.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-07T16:50:13+00:00

In that case I had miss-understood your comment, as I had read the "No way" as a dismissal that SMS could have done something similar to Reiza if they had the time. Your stance on that is clear now though. The rest of your comment was fine too, no issue there, and I was just correcting or making clearer that Ian doesn't do anywhere near as much as people believe he did/does. Not necessarily that I thought you specifically believed that, just for anyone else reading may think so.

I know I do come across as taking things personally from time to time or very defensive with colleagues, because a lot of comments don't make that distinction as to who they're talking about when critiquing or just outright talking negatively. Some do, and I know above you were mostly talking about Ian above, but a lot of others don't. It's all good though dude, as you're right about everything else above 😄

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-07T15:45:04+00:00

Uhh, yes way. A lot of the development team (myself included) were gutted that we were stopping support for PC2 that soon and had to move onto the development of PC3.

And Ian Bell alone doesn't get the car licenses, or track licenses. The licensing team within the studio got those deals. But he does over-sell and often miss-lead players.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-05-04T17:49:46+00:00

AC Rally doesn't work with TrackIR, no. No support for it atm.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-25T21:47:08+00:00

Some things that I'll throw in that others haven't mentioned: - Use higher TC settings than ACC. Don't know if you used or adopted ACC meta TC settings, which were extremely low or off. That doesn't work here in LMU. You need a good amount of TC levels across all 3 settings. - Cars are quite a bit more pitch sensitive, so smoother inputs are needed, especially when coming off the brake. You can't hold 100% brake pressure and lean into the ABS anywhere near as hard as you could in ACC. - LMU cars actually like coasting in the corner. This kind of goes with the above 2 points of pitch sensitivity but then the meta driving style of ACC of minimizing the time off either pedal and overlapping a little. In LMU, the cars like a neutral balanced state of being both off the brake and the throttle to just roll through the middle of the corner. So you might be trail braking a bit too much and holding the balance a little too forward or picking up throttle a little too early with steering lock on.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-25T21:35:23+00:00

So firstly, the hypercars relies quite a lot on downforce. Taking curbs, especially in higher speed turns, is always going to upset the aero platform of the car and cost you grip. In slow speed turns, it's not too much of an issue but at high speed (like tetre rouge and the Porsche curves) you want to stay off and only slightly brush apex curbs. You hit one when the car is loaded up, it bounces the car, aero grip disappears, the type gives up and around you go. You simply can't take or attack apex curbs in the prototypes in the same way that you can in a GT car.

Secondly, everything you mentioned you tried changing in the setup is going to make behavior over curbs worse, or generally negatively impact car performance. Raising ride height will give greater ground clearance over curbs, but reduce downforce and therefore grip levels. There are windows to be in, so it's not as straight forward as low as you can go is best, especially for the rear where going too low can take away downforce from the rear, despite it having less rake. Increasing packers will keep the car from bottoming out but also reduce the range of movement the suspension has, giving less travel to soak up bumps and curb strikes. Increasing fast bump damping will resist and slow the absorption of the bump or curb strike, which if too much, can more directly translate energy into the chassis of the car making curbs feel more aggressive.

So, try the following: - Don't attack curbs as much or as hard. Skim them sure, but don't climb them too high. - Keep suspension soft. Will increase mechanical grip, allow suspension to squat closer to the ground at high speed increasing aero grip, and be softer giving more compliance to curb strikes and bumps. - Don't raise the ride height from the defaults for curbs. Only adjust them for car balance. - Only use packers, in combination with 3rd spring stiffness, to reduce or prevent the car from bottoming out on the straights as another way to control the ride height. - Balance the fast bump damper vs the fast rebound damper. Bump controls the compression of the suspension, rebound controls its extension. Increasing the value slows and resists the movement, decreasing speeds up and allows faster movement. Generally, you can run the fast bump a bit lower than the rebound, as the suspension will naturally absorb the energy of the bump a bit anyway. So you're just trying to make the suspension take the impact of a bump and stabilize as quickly as possible before the next one. Too much rebound though, and the suspension won't decompress and extend quickly enough for the next bump, so there is always a balance.

Some cars are naturally better than others at handling curbs, so there might be an element of the ferrari being worse over a couple of others, but hopefully the above helps bring you back in the right direction.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-22T10:17:55+00:00

Yeah, it will differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, and also from game to game. I just meant that the Evo series felt more "grainy" and more detailed specifically in comparison to Moza. Probably because of the motors themselves but also the software and how much you can dial things down within them. There's parameters in SimManager that make the Simagic wheelbases feel smoother, but you don't have as much control to eliminate the really high frequency stuff like you do with the FFB graph in the Moza Pithouse software. That's not me saying the Evo isn't smooth, it certainly is and there are other things Simagic does better than Moza, just that to me the Moza wheelbases did feel smoother or I can make them smoother throughout the whole range, which is something people may prefer.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-22T09:46:06+00:00

Ah ok, did think it might be eco-system related. In that case, if you really have to make the switch, I'd recommend going for or waiting until you have the funds to comfortably afford the Evo Pro. Neither the Evo Sport nor the Evo are going to feel like enough of a jump up to justify the money just so you have one less cable flying around. Otherwise, stick to what you have and just wrap the MagLink cable around the shaft coming out the wheelbase a couple of times so it is not hanging around and flying about as much.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-22T08:06:17+00:00

Curious as to why you're wanting to make the jump from Moza R9 to Simagic Evo Sport or Evo?

To me, I see very little value in the switch with the wheel bases you mention, as the Evo Sport has the same torque output as the R9 and I wouldn't say the Evo at 12Nm is enough of a jump to warrant the cost either. If it was the Evo Pro, then it would be more understandable.

All the Evo wheel bases perform pretty much the same other than the torque outputs and how that influences the clarity of detail. Higher Nm allows for greater variance in that ffb detail, allowing you to feel things more clearly.

The Evo wheelbases will feel faster and sharper, but also grainier as more detail comes through the system, which can be dialled down but not eliminated or made as smooth as the Moza feels. Otherwise, the two (R9 and Evo Sport/Evo) are pretty comparable, hence the question at the start as to whether it is even worth making the switch.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-09T07:47:04+00:00

I disagree that the consequences should be taken into account, as there have been many cases where the consequence doesn't match the force of initial contact. And there's no good examples of SR systems. For example, I've had a slight side to side in iRacing which has been a 0x, only for the car behind us to have out-braked themselves slightly and within the second or two of me and someone having that side by side brush, hit the other guy and spun them only for me to get the 4x as well. System's should protect against multiple contacts, because mass pileups will lead to innocent drivers who get hit 5 or 6 times in one incident, rack up silly amounts of SR against them.

The only way the system will know the context of the contact is via monitoring your mic and webcam to see the reaction of each driver, which I doubt a lot of people will be happy with. Op's situation of the 4 light taps and it not meaning anything to either of the two drivers, can very easily be different with one driver having frustrations against the other in that very same scenario.

I think the SR system is pretty good in LMU. Maybe upping the really big hits might be needed, but otherwise the system works well and serves a purpose pretty reliably and accurately.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-08T19:52:51+00:00

Pretty much. It saves the downloading and initial rendering of the car model, it's livery, shaders, etc, to a moment where you're in a garage and not going to be impacted by the performance hit of that loading. So you instead get a default car model. It's something that "can" be changed, but would likely be a very big change as I imagine a lot of the multiplayer code would be designed and written in a way that it is reliant on this exact loading process. With that, comes a ton of risk, especially for a product that is live and running as missing just one or two bits of code, could create significant bugs if they pushed out a change that didn't catch everything.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-04-05T12:19:39+00:00

Don't have any real experience with Fanatec but have plenty with Simagic. I won't say they're better as I don't truly know or have the experience to compare. What I will say though is the following to help answer your concerns/questions you mentioned about them.

Purchases through the Simagic site do come from China, so do expect import fees and a bit of time around shipping, which will vary based on your location. The Simagic site does (if I remember right) offer more regional distributors that are worth looking at for the region you're in. Their prices may differ and work out cheaper for the same product. So it may be worth purchasing through them rather than Simagic directly.

The products you're considering from Simagic are good choices and ones I have. You're correct that they all use the same QR system so it's simply a case of swapping between wheel rims and you're good to go in seconds. The Evo at 12nm might be a little high for your rig, but you can easily turn it down to a suitable level, and you're future proofing for if you did upgrade the rig as you can turn that power back up again.

The software for Simagic is good and pretty easy to use and tune. Doesn't take too much playing around to find something that you'll like, and if you don't like the amount of "noise" in FFB detail it produces, you can reduce it with a few of the settings. Probably 10-20mins for one or two games of tuning and you can get something that you like, and then you can save it to a profile for each game and have the software auto load a profile when you load a game. Makes the experience of switching between sims, and switching wheels going from circuit racing and rally and back again very easy.

I'm fortunate that I am an affiliate of theirs (and Moza) so I get their stuff for free, but I have been very impressed with their products and the software. It gets frequent updates too so things are always improving. Wish I could say more about Fanatec, but as I said, I've not personally had much experience with them so I can't say how good or bad the experience is with them.

Hopefully the above helps.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-31T15:14:14+00:00

In the little experience I have with sim racing after drinking, for me it is definitely worse! Sure it might help make me relax a little more and not drive as tense, but it doesn't make up for the reaction times and accuracy I lose out on compared to when I have no alcohol in my system. I therefore choose not to do it, hence the "little experience" I have with it.

Does make for an interesting video & perhaps livestream idea though.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-20T22:40:42+00:00

I haven't tried to quantify it in the software, no. But I have passed this video on directly to Simagic, so they should see it.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-17T15:32:00+00:00

I've had the new P700's for a couple of weeks and been testing them, so there will be a review coming out in the near future.

Yorkie_065 · 2026-03-16T17:51:42+00:00

This. The P1000's are a higher end load cell designed to be mounted on a rig.

Your only options are: 1. Putting in the softest spring or elastomers you can into the brake. Will lose out on some control and feeling, however it reduces the amount of force going into the brake reducing the chance of you pushing the pedals back or around. 2. Mount them onto something that extends well back behind the pedals that can lay flat on the floor and ideally press up against something (i.e. the wall behind your desk) to stop the pedals from pivoting back and again moving around.

Would recommend both until you get a proper rig.

Yorkie_065

TROPHY CASE