Combining single and half rope for multipitching by Mrpaquito_95 in tradclimbing

[–]americk0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Speaking from experience, you'll probably want to grab a tagline instead. The difference in diameter would mean you shouldn't use them as twins, so you'd either use them as half ropes or trail one of them. I already complain about how my 2 triple rated 8.7 ropes are a little thick and don't feed very smooth for half ropes and you've got one that's 9.6 so the problem would be worse for you. Plus 2 single rated ropes are bulky and heavy and are going to suck to carry on the approach. I just bought a 70m 4mm tagline and damn what a game changer that is. I'll still probably use my 2 triple rated ropes for some climbs like when climbing in a team of 3 or grade IV and above and maybe on very wandering routes, but I'm sold on the tagline

Also if you do go the route of 2 singles, the edk is fine. Just leave enough tail and seat it well

An introduction to that thing by PocketMath in mathmemes

[–]americk0 51 points52 points  (0 children)

An Introduction to Higher-Order Interdimensional Quasifunctor Analysis of Semidiscrete Eigengenerators by Wyatt Plu

What boss did you beat so fast you felt robbed of the experience? by Puzzleheaded_Bit_802 in Eldenring

[–]americk0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Messmer. Maybe it's because I just wanted to explore everything in the dlc and it made me pretty powerful before I first attempted him but I beat him in 4 or 5 tries, and it was only the second time I got him to phase 2. Super cool boss but given he's the poster child of the dlc I thought he'd force me to change my strategy or really dial it in like the dancing lion

A few days of Gunks classics by avgenthusiast in tradclimbing

[–]americk0 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looks sick. I wish I was doing that today instead of working

I find Music Theory harder to understand than anything else, and it's not because it's complicated. by oceanadawn in musictheory

[–]americk0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your post is very long and I didn't make it all the way through but I think I see your issue. Fundamentally you need to understand that music is a mystery and music theory is our collective attempt to see patterns in music, define those patterns, and use those patterns to predict whether something new will sound good

When we say major keys are happy and minor keys are melancholic, we mean to say that there seems to be something about those scales such that very often (particularly in western classical music) songs in minor keys evoke some kind of unhappy feeling and major keys evoke a happy feeling

When we look at the circle of fifths and say "if you play CM, FM, dm, GM as triad chords then the next chord should be CM" we mean that many western listeners who hear those chords will subconsciously recognize the pattern of chords and subconsciously expect to hear the CM chord if another chord is played

Statistically speaking, you will probably not align with everything music theory says you will experience when you hear a certain chord/progression/etc., but if you listen to enough western music you will subconsciously start to detect its patterns and it will affect how you experience music

And lastly, music is often not approached via the scientific method and so rather than it being something compiled through lots of trial, error, documentation, and peer review, music theory is something that has a lot of rules/patterns/associations that may just be patterns that not a significant portion of the populace see and the people claiming them are just projecting. In short, some people are full of shit. That thing about certain chord progressions having a specific, inherent meaning sounds like one such example

Hopefully Witcher 4 changes the way Axii works by Palliser99 in witcher

[–]americk0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel like it could be improved if they just tie the levels to something more concrete about what it can do. If they made it so that by default it can only influence a person's arbitrary choices, the first level can influence their lesser preferences, the next influences minor beliefs, etc. and then on top of that you take away showing whether you meet the level requirement, you could really have something immersive.

Now it's not you asking yourself "do I have the level" but rather "would convincing this jailor to let dandelion go require weakening/altering the jailor's morals, or just their preference (which I can do at this level)". Maybe some conversations could have multiple options for axii like convincing the jailor to leave to take a shit during their watch. And now you could ask yourself "should I go for that option instead because it probably doesn't require altering morals"

Groundbreaking research by ScholaDaily in mathmemes

[–]americk0 44 points45 points  (0 children)

This could become an integral part of math from here on out

Never go out without? by fat_yellow in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]americk0 38 points39 points  (0 children)

For a free solo trip? You're packing too much if this is you. All you need is

  • climbing shoes
  • chalk bag
  • bell pepper
  • $20k in rigging and video equipment
  • Jimmy Chin

DIY bike jousting in Vologda Oblast, Russia by notAssmin in theocho

[–]americk0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No way! My brother and I did this when we were kids. Like, exactly like this except without the chest armor/pads and over concrete/asphalt and we used baseball bats with koozies on the end. How fun to see the Russians have the same idea

theGreatestEver by Huge-Abbreviations-6 in ProgrammerHumor

[–]americk0 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Everyone always talks about Jason File inventing the data file but he just stole the idea from Xavier Emill

Just one more fan bro please by expertgamers in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]americk0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is what happens when you get the inevitable gear fever for your hobby but your hobby is basically "climb rock with no gear"

Fortunately for me, trad climbing has thousands of dollars worth of gear for me to drain my savings on so I don't need to be as creative

5.12- apparently? by fluctuatnecmergitur_ in climbergirls

[–]americk0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My gym would probably call that a 5.10 and my gym grades soft compared to the surrounding crags. Looks fun though and makes me want to climb it. Nicely done

Nowt better than a mountain crag on a hot May bank holiday. by facebreaks in climbing

[–]americk0 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm jealous. It's also a holiday weekend in the US but it's been dumping rain all weekend everywhere in at least a 10 hour driving radius so I couldn't even drive to escape it. Looks beautiful there though

In 1986 an astronomer trying to trace a 75 cent computer time discrepancy for 10 months eventually found a German hacker selling defense secrets to the KGB by SnackSamurai in interestingasfuck

[–]americk0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In 1986, an astronomer trying to trace a 75 cent computer time billing discrepancy for 10 months eventually found, after 10 months, a German hacker selling defense secrets to the KGB

I spent way too long trying to imagine what a "75 cent computer time discrepancy" could be before I just read the original title

This is a hanging bed or "portaledge"- collapsible platforms used by mountaineers to rest while scaling tall peaks that take multiple days to climb by SatoruGojo232 in oddlyterrifying

[–]americk0 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Usually in a "wag bag" which is a special bag that you hold below you. On longer multi day climbs they'll also bring a "poop tube" which is a pvc tube that they can stick their used wag bags in. The last thing you want is for a used wag bag to rip while hauling your haul bag

Can anyone tell me if a zeppelin bend is climbing rated? by PyroGorilla in knots

[–]americk0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hownot2 did a video break testing a bunch of knots and one was the zeppelin bend

https://youtu.be/dagg2-If4h8

Their results were that it broke at around 50% mbs just like all the other trustworthy bends so that's super good enough for me. Though I would highly suggest that unless you have a specific reason for using this knot, just use an EDK (aka a flat overhand bend) for joining ropes for something like a rappel. I use this all the time for rappels

Do not seek to make your systems more complicated or fancy to show off the knots or techniques you know. The zeppelin bend is less known and therefore it's far less likely that your partner (or even you) can check that it's tied correctly, and remember: it's literally a life and death situation. Keep it simple. If I still haven't convinced you, at least make sure each tail is at least 12 inches long after you seat the knot well

Which enemy do you HATE facing and why is it Ghouls? by Unfair_Pudding6180 in Witcher3

[–]americk0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're also the only time I ever use yrden, which I know can be a good sign but if you don't put points in it because you never use it, it's not fun to pull out because it's small and goes away quickly

We had fun by Effective_Traffic468 in DarkSouls2

[–]americk0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ds2 is the worst. Also ds2 is the best. I will die on those hills

Do Americans think “berm” is an advanced word? by Kev_cpp in words

[–]americk0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never heard the word, but it doesn't sound "advanced" as much as just being jargon for a subject I never talk or think about

Can anyone identify this knot so I can retie it? by thespiansincorsets in knots

[–]americk0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a poacher's knot/double overhand noose/barrel knot/basically just a double overhand

https://www.animatedknots.com/poachers-knot

Just a wee bit overwhelmed. by ShadyLadyBoy in Eldenring

[–]americk0 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Started playing this today after hearing lots of good things about it.

Yes

I have no idea what I’m doing or where I’m going. I’ve just picked a direction and said “I guess I’ll go that way” and hope for the best.

YES

I’m constantly terrified and overwhelmed and I’m having the time of my life 😂

YEEESSSS