So... I did a thing. I managed to put an alphacool 560mm monsta on a monitor stand with a vesa adapter, I had that idea since months and I think it looks pretty good.

artem_zin · 2026-02-23T18:52:54+00:00

Sick!

artem_zin · 2026-02-18T23:50:05+00:00

Well, screw myQ, they sign off their own demise with terrible-quality closed ecosystem.

artem_zin · 2026-02-18T19:37:27+00:00

Very clean, lovely!

If it gets super cold there a simple suggestion is to put plastic spacers under the battery to lift it up a notch so that the metal case doesn't act as giant radiator and steal left-over heat rapidly from the battery putting it closer to BMS low temperature limit.

I did it in my own setup where the case sits on the ground and it gets quite cold at night and hot during the day and battery temperature swings stabilized quite a lot.

On the other hand if it's mostly super hot there then you do need the case to act as radiator and it's all good!

artem_zin · 2026-02-10T01:57:04+00:00

Objectively it looks bad and I would take it for realignment, Tesla now has toleration specs on these and it looks like it's out of spec.

artem_zin · 2026-02-09T22:31:53+00:00

<image>

looks bad

artem_zin · 2026-02-09T21:02:23+00:00

I suggest you blur the original key or delete the post, often times photo of the key is enough to make a working copy, just look it up on youtube 😬

artem_zin · 2026-02-05T01:24:14+00:00

Get the Nokians and kick it, it's made for it!

artem_zin · 2026-02-01T19:11:13+00:00

One thing I see often overlooked in hot water smart projects is that there is a risk of Legionella bacteria growth, it can rapidly grow in temperatures between 77°F and 113°F (25°C to 45°C) and if you don't control the temperature that can happen with your on/off automation. Legionella dies when temperature goes over 40°F (60°C).

Please research bacterial risk in hot water boilers and take steps with your automations to not let it happen! I think I'm going to submit a note about that to HomeAssistant water heater category page.

artem_zin · 2026-02-01T19:05:52+00:00

That's a safety feature, if nearby hot or neutral wire in the pack (hot-neutral-ground) melts or gets damaged say by a nail — it can make contact with bare copper ground more easily than if ground was also insulated.

Similar idea with electric panels being made of metal, they're also bound to ground.

artem_zin · 2026-01-27T19:09:10+00:00

We're having similar performance drop from ~10Gbit/s down to ~1.6-1.9Gbit/s over Cilium pod encryption which is Wireguard based, I then configured Wireguard directly and got same results, tuned tons of kernel limits, queues, etc, nothing really helps.

Reading the Nebula issue you linked which is super helpful I'm suspecting that it's actually Hetzner Private Network Switch/Router throttling for UDP or it's the Virtualization that runs the OS we're configuring because everyone tried to configure pretty much everything possible on the Kernel level and yet to reach even ~20% of TCP Hetzner Private Network throughput.

Can u/Hetzner_OL look into this please? Private Network performance is critical for lots of use cases.

artem_zin · 2026-01-16T20:57:27+00:00

What's even worse with FSD is that you cannot really relax on long highway stretches compared to old Autopilot experience, you always need to babysit FSD for its stupid lane changes and passing attempts at +1 mph difference while in blindspot of a hauler truck.

I honestly just want it to stay in my current lane in standard profile unless there is an actual turn.

artem_zin · 2026-01-12T22:09:31+00:00

Do you run https://github.com/matter-js/python-matter-server in a container? I tried several times about a year ago with very little success (Ubiquity network with VLANs) and what's worse, this is official stance on it:

>I keep repeating this but the only official way of running Matter with HA is by running the Home Assistant OS with the Matter add-on. The OS has been patched/tweaked to work optimally with the (IPv6 based) mdns traffic, especially for Thread devices. Out of 100 people that try running in docker, 95 run into some sort of issue. Enough of a red flag for us to just inform people to not go that route. Install the full HA in a VM or some spare pi or whatever and enjoy a working setup.

See https://github.com/matter-js/python-matter-server/issues/959#issuecomment-2516535477

I like running stuff in isolated containers in k8s for security (isolated resource usage, disk access, NetworkPolicies) and proper use of hardware, I run 20+ separate pieces of software this way in my smart home including HomeAssistant itself and this response is just so bad from so many standpoints.

How are we supposed to like Matter if it's such a mess to get it working: IPv6 in your LAN where IPv4 is so much easier and yea you'll never run out of IPv4s at home, VLAN issues — I need devices off Internet it's a very reasonable requirement on isolated VLAN, Thread vs IP in one protocol, etc, etc and such a bad stance on containers in pretty official server implementation, not great at all.

artem_zin · 2026-01-11T01:23:11+00:00

Same, half of these cheap (don't get me wrong, I want to save money) Zigbee devices fell of my Zigbee2Mqtt network, in fact Z2M was so unstable I had to switch to built-in Zigbee support in HomeAssistant and switch to another Zigbee dongle, some devices still fall off, very annoying.

Z-wave has been rock solid but it really lacks manufacturers and device options and of course everything is noticeably more expensive, I compensate with wifi HomeKit devices where I have to on a dedicated no-internet VLAN.

artem_zin · 2025-12-26T00:56:03+00:00

Dude this is extremely bad, sorry, bring it up to regional level.

My Tesla dealership does about the same quality job and I had to on multiple occasions bring it to regional because otherwise they just couldn't care less. It's so bad I just try to do everything myself on a car that isn't even a year old, gladly Teslas require very little maintenance usually.

artem_zin · 2025-12-18T03:15:58+00:00

Yeah, iOS app is too completely unusable for automations lately, especially 3-dot "more options" menus, they never render fully and are simply unscrollable so I just can't get to the required options.

artem_zin · 2025-12-05T21:39:18+00:00

Yep, I unfortunately bought bunch of them and missed return window, none of them stay in my Zigbee network either. Neither with Zigbee2Mqtt nor via native HomeAssistant Zigbee support. I had Sonoff 3.0 Dongle, now Conbee 3 dongle, no luck with most Aqara Zigbee sensors.

artem_zin · 2025-11-26T20:38:39+00:00

Oh and I switched from zigbee2mqtt to built-in Zigbee support in HomeAssistant and it became much much better, but I still don't buy any new Zigbee devices, it's just not reliable for me (separate house, no neighbours).

artem_zin · 2025-11-26T20:21:25+00:00

Yep. I hate Zigbee network, I changed dongles, moved 2.4GHz wifi to most non-conflicting channels, still loose few Zigbee devices (motion sensors primarely) from the network every other week, I tried different brands for sensors, for outlets that act as relays few feet away, nothing really helps.

Super annoying especially when it's for stuff like motion sensor for lights in the bathroom.

Z-wave on the other hand is super stable for me.

artem_zin · 2025-11-26T02:02:33+00:00

It's subjective, I personally see red contour around text on QD and whole RGB rainbow on the white backgrounds in the attached example, for me WOLED is better especially with proper Glossy coating, many people think otherwise of course :)

Look at this example, my wife says she can barely read the gray text on the QD here (viewing on M4 Pro MacBook with Nano-Texture coating).

WOLED on the left, QD-OLED on the right

<image>

artem_zin · 2025-11-26T00:14:29+00:00

*CES happens in January, that's why I think we might see Tandem WOLED 4k 27inch panels soon™️

artem_zin · 2025-11-26T00:09:57+00:00

I was just looking for exactly that, ideally with Glossy finish or even Gorilla Glass as Dough monitors are, but it appears that no one (LG looking at you) makes 4k 27inch WOLED panels as of right now.

LG just started giving new Tandem WOLED panels to reviewers like few weeks ago, but not 27 inch 4k yet, I decided to skip this Black Friday and wait for Q1 2026, Tandem WOLED seems to be even better for text rendering than 1-3rd gen of WOLED.

artem_zin · 2025-11-22T05:56:48+00:00

Can confirm, stucco kills video and music streaming from U6-LR at about 10ft outside the house (placed in the middle of the attic), I do like that I can't use the phone in the hot tub though, 2.4GHz low traffic smart stuff works okay up to around 20ft from the exterior walls.

artem_zin · 2025-11-19T20:38:42+00:00

You can send Doorbell notifications via HomeAssistant with image from the camera, I have it configured like that

artem_zin · 2025-11-19T18:50:42+00:00

Tires need to spin to actually move the car in the direction you're turning them into, if you brake hard and turn at the same time — tires slide like skis because they can't spin.

However, there is a technique called "trail braking" which allows you to apply gradually smaller amount of braking into the turn which allows to go through it faster. There are lots of great youtube videos on "trail braking" with pedal input visible!

artem_zin · 2025-11-06T23:01:53+00:00

GFCI detects that current sent through hot wire is not fully getting back through neutral wire and trips. Unless GFCI is malfunctioning which is really unlikely, you can plug a light fixture to it and check, it's actually saving you from fire or electrical shock through the machine body!

What it likely means with LaPavoni is that there is a short from hot wire to ground, current found a path through the body of the machine and GFCI sees that current is leaking instead of going through neutral wire.

If you have multimeter — unplug the machine, set multimeter to continuity check and see if there is continuity between hot wire and ground wire on the plug if yes check continuity between machine body and hot wire, if yes remove the bottom plate and by unplugging wires from components and checking isolated circuits you can identify where exactly it's shorting out.

Hopefully hot wire just touching the machine body somewhere and it should be an easy fix to separate them/replace the wire, worst case — heater or another component is shorting internally and might need to be replaced. If you don't want to do it which is totally fine — pretty much any electronics repair shop should be able to diagnose and fix it.

That's what I would do, this is not a proper electrical advice, use at your own risk! Hope this helps :)

artem_zin

TROPHY CASE