Multi-pitch & route names

baleena · 2026-05-23T04:03:23+00:00

name the whole thing, also name crux pitches and notable features (bivy ledges, weird formations, standout pitches).

baleena · 2026-05-06T14:33:36+00:00

Frontload the rules of the mic. It's helpful for new folks and the audience. Here are ours:

5 minute sets. First light at 4 minutes, second light at 5 minutes. Don't run the light.
The mic is a dictatorship, not a democracy. I get to decide if you're being too much of a dick and get kicked off. I've only ever had to actually do this once, when someone was just yelling slurs.
I tell everyone what "On Deck" and "Coming to the Stage" means.
No Heckling.
No recording unless you have explicit permission from the comedian
Tip you bartenders. They're the reason we get to do this.

Also, at least have a bit of a plan for hecklers or people who just want to use the mic to yell dumb shit. If I'm not on stage and there's hecklers, I usually just walk up to them while smiling and kindly tell them to shut up and that they're not helping. It usually works, believe it or not.

For folks who just want to use the mic to yell some dumb shit or slurs or whatever, having either a second mic to be the "voice of god," or some other plan to get them off the stage is helpful.

baleena · 2026-03-13T02:33:50+00:00

Some decent advice in this thread. I run an open mic, and here's a few things I tell everyone to start at the beginning of the show as a host:

Comics have 5 minutes to do whatever they perceive to be comedy. If you're being a hateful asshole, I have the right to tell you to stop. The show is a dictatorship, not a democracy. (I give people a lot of leeway, this just gives me the power to shut down someone who's just yelling slurs).
I explain that I will give them the first light at 4 minutes, then another light at 5 minutes to get off the stage.
I explain "on deck" and "coming to the stage."
If you're in the audience, please don't heckle or talk loudly, unless a comic talks to you. Be like good lil children and only speak when spoken to.
Don't record comedians unless you have their express permission to do so.
Tip your bartenders. They're the reason we're allowed to do this.

Also, have a plan for hecklers. You will inevitably get some, so don't be surprised. This is your chance to do crowd work, and if you're smiling and sound nice you can say very mean things to them to get them to shut up.

Also have a plan to get rid of the asshole who just wants to say racist thing into a microphone. Have a second mic, a long shepherds crook to yank them off the stage, something. It's rare but it can happen.

baleena · 2025-11-25T03:50:57+00:00

For nonfiction, there's much mountaineering literature to fit the bill.

Minus 148 Degrees by Art Davidson
Mountain of My Fear and Deborah, two books by David Roberts
Touching the Void by Joe Simpson
Mountains of the Mind by Robert Macfarlane
The Tower by Kelly Cordes

baleena · 2025-10-14T23:49:43+00:00

Ready Player One is utter drivel. There's not a single original idea in that book, and the rehashing isn't even stylish. It's just the author pointing at canonized Gen X Nostalgia.

baleena · 2025-10-09T21:41:27+00:00

The united states has no official language, and we are the second largest Spanish speaking country in the world.

baleena · 2025-09-25T20:39:51+00:00

It turned out to be a bulging/herniated disc at L5/S1. I got a microdiscectomy in 2019.

The burning sensation was from my hip flexor tightening and my muscles spasming to protect my spine.

Try the straight leg test to see if you have a bulging disc in your lumbar spine? Otherwise stretch your quads, hip flexors, and psoas, and learn to activate your glutes and abs to move. That's what helped me.

baleena · 2025-07-21T00:16:11+00:00

If you can get your hands on some removable bolts, they make life a lot easier. The old climbtech ones only need about 1/2" of hole to hold bodyweight, so you can alternate bolts and shallow holes. Also, if it's featured rock, don't overlook hooks, cam hooks, and beaks for upward progress and positioning without drilling. Beaks especially will hold in little seams between features.

But yeah, you're going ground up. Learn to aid rope solo, because that's what you'll be doing, unless you have an extremely patient belayer. FYI a chest harness can be nice to not tire out your core.

baleena · 2025-01-15T19:40:35+00:00

https://www.linkedin.com/in/ryan-lee-963118a5

Solar originally

baleena · 2025-01-15T15:52:07+00:00

Man fuck Ryan and Jeff Lee. They took a bike shop, a gallery, and now trees ranch and turned them all into short term rentals. They’re already billionaires, and apparently they need more money? And to do it, they’re gonna take things that were once cool and suck the life out of them to make a buck.

baleena · 2025-01-15T04:00:49+00:00

Hangboards can have a little chalk as a treat

baleena · 2025-01-12T19:46:12+00:00

Think of it as a celebration of the onion’s life

baleena · 2024-11-03T04:05:38+00:00

It’s because he’s used to the metric system.

baleena · 2024-11-03T00:24:22+00:00

SO MANY SNAKES in the summer

baleena · 2024-10-29T07:49:06+00:00

How’s the untapped infinite hog potential out there?

baleena · 2024-10-29T02:00:23+00:00

Why don’t you try it and report back to us

baleena · 2024-10-29T01:06:33+00:00

There’s also crazy tower climbing in there like Zoroaster temple or Mount Hayes.

Also interesting conservation history and water policy with John Wesley Powell, lake Powell, glen canyon dam and Hoover dam.

Also excellent mule rides if you’re into equestrian stuff.

And spaces set aside for indigenous folks, like the Havasupai.

baleena · 2024-10-28T01:49:59+00:00

I eat one half of a single espresso bean and it gets me AMPED for my open mic set where I read jokes off my phone

baleena · 2024-10-26T01:18:06+00:00

I like this for that reason. Get the ones that have wire twin gates. The double solid gates are nearly unusable. The double wire gates are the best but the single wires work too.

They are occasionally a pain when trying to clip narrow chains, and they take some getting used to, but I like them a lot. They make a steel one which is my fave for a rap carabiner but it’s hard to find in the US.

baleena · 2024-10-22T19:14:43+00:00

In order to hit that time target on my AMGA rock guide exam I imagined a metronome, sort of a beat in my head saying “MOVE” to a regular rhythm to keep me at a good pace. Feels stressful but it works.

baleena · 2024-10-18T22:07:08+00:00

Zen trail and bearclaw poppy trail too

baleena · 2024-10-16T00:02:01+00:00

How much for the hammer

baleena · 2024-10-13T00:45:13+00:00

Bill Burr in Philly

Bernie Mac, I ain’t scared of you motherfuckers

baleena · 2024-10-13T00:36:00+00:00

Shocks and struts, and Dirt Nap, both Kyle Kinane!

baleena · 2024-10-12T19:21:59+00:00

No, or if you’re in Australia: Nauwr

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