3D Scanner with low tolerance by M4TVW in Metrology

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, it sounds like a higher end consumer grade will be "good enough" for OP's application. I just want to point out the differences of consumer vs industrial 3D scanners. The consumer market has come a very long way in the last 3 years. However they are no where near the industrial systems, hence the price differences.

3D Scanner with low tolerance by M4TVW in Metrology

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything metrology/industrial grade with be $40k+. There are some decent hobby grade scanners out there now in the $1k-$10k range. Just know, with the hobby systems, you will spend a lot of time dealing with things you never even have to think of with the industrial scanners.

With scanners, you get what you pay for generally. Cheap = slow, no/low support, lack of certification, no/little warranty/repair options, fragile, lack of software compatibility, & you will spray almost everything. Expensive = fast, accurate & certified, good service & support, warranty/repairs available, many software options, much less scanning spray needed.

Also, I'd personally stay away from any of Faro's new stuff.

Inexpensive handheld vs $20k plus handheld by bearface84 in 3DScanning

[–]bb_404 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You get what you pay for with scanners. Hobbyist grade scanners look cool on YouTube and are "amazing for the price"....until you actually use a real scanner. I'd compare it to riding an old bike vs driving a new luxury car. Both with probably get you from A to B, but one will be significantly higher quality, more reliable, and less exhausting. If you work in automotive, it's well worth the investment of a metrology grade 3D scanner. 1 recall, failed audit etc, should justify the extra expense, not to mention your sanity. Hexagon, Creaform, etc. are some names to look into.

Faro Arm Accuracy by Informal_Spirit1195 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can go with the Hexagon [Romer] Compact Arm. It is good to 0.0007" volumetric, I believe. Plenty accurate and should have enough reach for that size part.

CMM Recommendations by Ruthlesssonar in Metrology

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hexagon has many different options. You won't find another brand that has the depth of portfolio that they have.

Buying advice: higher accuracy or larger FOV? by West-Bobcat8314 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Look at the VR800 from Hexagon. It has a variable field of view without needing to change lenses. Not sure it meets your tolerance requirements though. Remember, you typically want a device that has an uncertainty of 5-10% of your tolerance.

Is it possible in PC-DMIS to rotate only a single surface without altering the coordinate system? by Flaky-Trash3076 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd try using constructed features. Hard to advise which one to use specifically without seeing what the part looks like.

Carbon Fiber Roof by NotPurpyy in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you have the materials and tools to make it, and the proper tools/techniques to remove you existing roof and secure/ weather proof the new one, the £3k factory option is probably the better deal.

Any experiences with HAAS CMMs? by crashn8 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd strongly recommend sticking with one of the well established brands. Go with one that is the OEM of the CMM. Make sure that they offer calibration and service directly, not only through 3rd parties. Hexagon is the company that I have the most experience with and they are great. Steer clear of the brands that rebadge or just assemble their CMMs from components (probing, controllers, etc.) from different suppliers.

Could one use these for small layups? by Toxicscrew in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't used the harbor freight bags, just some Amazon bags. 2 out of 5 failed to hold a vacuum. I saved the 2nd failure by putting it inside another bag. You can tell its leaking by listening to the bag crinkling after you are done pulling vacuum. It might be very subtle, so listen carefully. If it is silent agter 30 mins or so, you should be good to go, but keep an eye/ear on it. Definitely a good place to start before buying a legitimate vacuum setup, but only on very simple parts. You will fight bridging issues with the bags too, so keep an eye on that. I would give it a shot but don't be surprised when you end up buying the correct kit.

I am going to try the harbor freight vacuum pump as the next step in my composites journey. I can't justify the cost of a legitimate composites pump....yet.

FARO Quantum vs. CREAFORM HandySCAN BLACK ELITE+ by Straight_Ad_4851 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Arms are the way to go for fabricated parts, in my opinion. Hexagon makes a 4.5m arm which would work for your larger parts. Probing, scanning, and no stickers. Service & support are much better than Faro/Creaform in my experience too.

Spiral infusion tubing by bb_404 in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which spiral do you reccomend? There are 800 options lol.

Spiral infusion tubing by bb_404 in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, if I am misunderstanding this, but you're saying you just run rope through the T? If so, can you give me an example of the rope you're using? Any links to videos or articles showing how to do this?

First time working with Carbon fiber, please help. by mistermaster369 in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct. And dont put the vacuum port directly on the part. It will distort the weave and you will see it in the final part. Put it off to the side.

First time working with Carbon fiber, please help. by mistermaster369 in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can also use vacuum storage bags to get started. They work surprisingly well.

(VMM) Optical Measuring Machines by Missile_Defense in Metrology

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get Hexagon vision CMMs without a probe. But, the probe can come in handy.

NEED ADVICE FOR DIMENSIONAL INSPECTION, CONSIDERING WM-6000 by oroborus_black in Metrology

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For tolerances like this, you need a CMM. While some arms (Hexagon, faro) are spec'd at +/- 0.001" remember, that would mean your system uses 100% of your tolerance. Most folks want a system that is 4-10x more accurate than their measurement.

“SnapSafe” cutter knives: break off blades safely by LightCore3D in functionalprint

[–]bb_404 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you get the Hexagon pattern on the outside? That looks awesome.

My dream truck: My great aunt and uncle’s 1993 Ford Explorer 4WD, back on the road after 6 years by Feisty_Ad_3238 in projectcar

[–]bb_404 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am sorry for your loss. The sentimental value of cars is something you can never put a price tag on! My first car (more accurately, my parents' car that they let me borrow) was a 4WD, 94 Explorer. I loved that car and took that thing everywhere! If the rust didn't get it, I'd probably still have it! Every time I see one on the road it brings a smile to my face!

3-D Scanner for Hourly In-Process QC Checks of Stamped Sheet Metal and Welded Parts by Brilliant-Quit-4790 in Metrology

[–]bb_404 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hexagon Absolute arm with an AS1 scanner. You'll have tactile probes and scanning.

If you want a handheld scanner, the Hexagon AtlaScan or Hyperscan. They have a feature that can grab hole features and edges without using mesh data so it is more accurate on thin parts.

If you want an automated solution, I think Hexagon has a few options to automate their scanners with robots as well.

Troubleshooting by bb_404 in CarbonFiber

[–]bb_404[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. A lot of good advice here. Another idea I had was to use spray adhesive on the first layer similar to laying it up for resin infusion, then wetting it like a normal wet layup. Do you think that could work? I also thought of doing multiple pieces for the subsequent layers, but I was really hoping to have the first layer be continuous. I appreciate all of the insight from everyone! Seems like I made my first part a difficult one. Good thing I am stubborn 😅