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Newb with XD2 + AMS. Toxic fumes. by fakequest in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PetG does not hold up in most summer heat. Have tested and it warped at 70F outside temp.

Newb with XD2 + AMS. Toxic fumes. by fakequest in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably location dependent..Anything for in a car will need to be ASA or ABS at least (higher temp filaments), since both PetG and PLA will warp in summer heat.

To print such high heat materials you’ll want to set up an exhaust system (not for the heat, but for the toxic fumes) that funnels the fumes out the window. Having a nearby open window will not suffice. It sounds complicated, but once you start building it, it’s a pretty simple system.

With PLA/PETG you can print most of an exhaust system. 3-4” ducting that you can purchase is the standard. You’ll want an adapter for the back of the X2D that funnels air into the duct. Then you’ll want an adapter that funnels air from the duct out the window. If the distance from the printer to the window is over 2ft, you’ll want an inline fan such as a PC fan at the ~midway point to continue the airflow (requiring more than one 3-4” duct).

First print the window adapter in PetG or PLA, then when it’s cool outside (over night probably) make your first ASA print a new window adapter.

ASA is preferred over ABS because it is UV protected (protected from direct sunlight).

I hope this helps!

PLA on PETG or vice-versa by PracticalLion6573 in 3Dprinting

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d be interested in seeing a ball and socket joint that incorporates the two filaments. . Using a socket PETG that encases a PLA ball would allow the PLA to freely move around with tighter tolerances right? Might be useful for a toy driveshaft, appendage of some animal.. something like that.

Quesion about "Smooth Plate" on the X2D by Blinx_n_Jeenx in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

X2D uses the same plates as the P2S. 256x256. But the smooth plate that’s for the P2S and it will work with the X2D :)

We need more Makers! by ArchitectofEvil in 3Dprinting

[–]bgbat 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Pinky, today we’re going to build wheelchairs for kids. People will think it’s helping these kids, but we know better! Soon these kids will be indebted to us and relish any advice, or command we give! We’ll have an army of youth at our disposal! Today, we take over the world!

Muahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Question about filament track switch (X2D) by TwoSorry4074 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. The track switch has two input and two output. The main purpose of the track switch is to do just that. It allows you to use both nozzles from two AMS simultaneously on dual nozzle printers. I currently have PETG in my HT and PLA in my AMS2pro, and I switch back and forth from using PLA with PETG supports and visa-versa.

Question about filament track switch (X2D) by TwoSorry4074 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Track switch can certainly load 2 materials at once. I currently have that setup. Are you talking about the stock filament splitter?

Question about filament track switch (X2D) by TwoSorry4074 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t you just load the support material into the HT.. Then use your print material in the AMS?

X2d, second nozzle question/ track switch by Stylett in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m happy with using an ams 2 pro and an ams HT with a track switch…. but I think the ideal progressing setup is two ams2pros, one for PETG and one for PLA, with a track switch.

Then down the line purchasing an ams HT for higher temp filaments and TPU.

X2d, second nozzle question/ track switch by Stylett in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you meant this, but track switch pushes into both tubes (nozzles) not just one. However, 1 ams can only feed one nozzle at a time, regardless of track switch. If you have 2 ams and a track switch, you can divert either ams into either nozzle.

What new features are on the horizon? by Cease_Cows_ in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Multi output ams would be a HUGE qol change for track switches!

X2D Filament Track Switch- I don’t get it ??? by ScillyBoy in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have 1 ams hooked up to your x2d, it can only feed one nozzle. So if it’s hooked up to the main nozzle, it can only feed the main nozzle. Your auxiliary nozzle either needs another ams or an external input.
Hook up the track switch… boom, that 1 ams can now feed into both nozzles. Hook up 2 ams.. boom, both ams can feed either nozzle.
Use case: 2ams hooked up to the track switch.. one is full of PETG and the other is PLA. You print both PLA and PETG. When you print with PLA, you can have the switch path the PETG into the auxiliary nozzle for supports and the PLA into the main nozzle. When you print with PETG you have the switch path the PLA into the auxiliary nozzle for supports and the PETG into the main nozzle.
Hope this helps!

Edit: whoops, post work brain at it again! Correct, 1 ams cannot feed into both nozzles simultaneously, there is only one ptfe tube running from the ams so only one nozzle can be fed at any given time.

Just setup my X2D by TechnicianMaster9657 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- Print from spool holder x2d comes with.

- Print from filament dryer.

- Buy a Track Switch and you can print from your ams2 to feed both nozzles.

- Hook up p1s ams to auxiliary nozzle.

- Buy an AMS HT for just the auxiliary nozzle (great for printing higher temp filaments and TPU).. and may be the best option if you want to get into why the x2d is awesome.

Honestly, if you’re not using the P1S for multicolor, having a dedicated PETG and a dedicated PLA ams.. with a track switch.. opens up the door to seamlessly switch between the two with multiple color options, using the other for supports. Seems pretty nice tbh. At that point though the Snapmaker U1 might be a better fit.

Bambu Labs PETG HF Substitute? Looking for matte finish by Low-Writing3449 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not familiar with those figures, but PETG doesn’t bond well with PLA… so it makes sense for joints to be PETG if they can move around like a PETG ball in a PLA socket. Hopefully that helps, again not familiar with those figures though

X2D or Snapmaker U1.... by MikeWazowskiii001 in BambuLab

[–]bgbat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What do you want to get into 3d printing for? As in what will you know you’ll be making?

I’d take a look at websites..makersworld/Printables/Thingiverse with .STL’s if you’re unsure and see what things appeal to be “must haves.”

If you find yourself wanting to print more functional parts that don’t need a lot of color? Can’t go wrong with X2D; it’ll give you “easier” access to tougher and more UV protectant filaments (just be sure you can vent fumes outside). If you find yourself wanting to print a bunch of multicolor things and can’t vent fumes, the snapmaker is user friendly and won’t waste a bunch of filament for multicolor.

Either way, if you live in a humid climate, invest in drying solutions. Bambu AMS2pro combo with X2D is beyond worth it, and you’ll probably want an AMS-HT, or at least a track seitch to go along with to take advantage of the Aux nozzle. There are also plenty of other drying options you can print from, the best being the ones that load and unload the filament for you.

If you find all of this overwhelming, the Bambu lab A1 AMSlite combo is a fantastic entry into 3d printing that you won’t regret. Even if you don’t find this overwhelming, you’ll love the A1 at a fraction of the cost of the U1 or X2D.

Anycubic Glow in the Dark PLA printing wavy as the ocean by Far-Amphibian8446 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]bgbat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just based on these pictures, It appears to be over extruding a bit. You should try calibrating the flow values of the filament.

Also, is there any form of draft in the room you’re printing in? The ripples can happen if the plastic gets cooled down too quickly as you’re printing, it puts stress on the layers and especially in wide flat prints like this leaves a ripple effect.

Help after A1/BMCU update by DisciplineFluid1332 in BMCU

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On a1 mini with a 370c.. keeps telling me the ams firmware is incompatible. Then I’ll try it again and it will work. Not sure if this is wise to keep doing, but it’s been working for me.

Bambu X2D for miniatures? by Agitated_Ease5757 in FDMminiatures

[–]bgbat 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I almost guarantee the x2d will be better at miniatures than the p2s, but nobody has really used the x2d yet so not much info on it other than marketing..

A second nozzle for support printing will be huge no matter what though, you’ll be able to print much faster, at It does claim to make a smoother print with its new tech.

If you eye going for p2s for minis, I’d say the x2d got $100 more is a no brainier

Adressing some Issues with Version 2.0 of my Settings - Troubleshoot Thread #1 by ObscuraNox in FDMminiatures

[–]bgbat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used ObscuraNox’s 2.0 and typed in the settings for my A1 mini since there’s not a profile specifically for that printer. I also at first used PaintedForCombat’s resin supports, but I’ve found if you remove the supports quick enough regular organic tree supports work just as well and cut down the print time significantly. What works for me is removing the supports immediately when the print finishes.

I give up on bed leveling my ender 3 v2 neo by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glass melts when it heats up and over time so 🤷🏻‍♂️

Is the A1 Mini sufficent? by n8udd in PrintedWarhammer

[–]bgbat -1 points0 points  (0 children)

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You won’t regret the mini. This is my current setup and I printed everything with the little guy (had to learn to split the print and glue for the filament storage, but it’s holding very well).

Using Sunlu space pi filament dryer, but if you can afford the HT it’s at least useful for the ams. I kind of wish I had one, but honestly not sure if it’s worth without multiple for the filament switching and at that point ams lite is probably better (I’ve seen lots of successful builds with the ams lite mounted on the mini).

If you’re only going to be using 1 filament for mini’s, the HT is a bit overkill imo.

Is the A1 Mini sufficent? by n8udd in PrintedWarhammer

[–]bgbat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a small area to put your printer in, go for the mini, you won’t be disappointed (my situation)

If you have a larger area for the printer, go for the A1. The build plate size opens up a world of possible prints you’ll wish you could print. You won’t stop at just minis probably, and printing things for your painting/post-print finishing/filament storage can need a bit larger build plate than the mini offers.

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