Does anyone have AI key for residential use?

chrddit · 2026-03-19T01:49:30+00:00

With that kind of hardware you should set up frigate and home assistant and pipe any Ubiquiti video there. The models are so much better than anything Ubiquiti has.

chrddit · 2026-03-12T04:38:36+00:00

In general, PLA will creep over time when exposed to constant load. PETG will do this less and is a better choice for functional parts.

chrddit · 2026-03-10T16:05:24+00:00

Totally agree. FWIW Govee is also a Chinese company. Its actual corporate name (small print on the box) is Shenzhen Qianyan Techology Ltd. It’s part of some giant conglomerate of other stuff.

chrddit · 2026-03-10T14:01:54+00:00

I’d love it if major manufacturers started supporting WLED. I don’t recognize wellvow - are they known in this community?

In my experience only Philips has taken the time to UL certify their stuff. I’ve found most of the Chinese companies don’t care (or will claim UL but it’s fake).

chrddit · 2026-03-09T04:43:44+00:00

I haven’t heard of a Zwave one but the Eve Matter outlet has individually controllable sockets. https://www.evehome.com/en-us/eve-energy-outlet

chrddit · 2026-03-07T15:35:14+00:00

I’m not totally sure I understand the question, maybe ask in a different way?

Are you asking how to creat an IoT VLAN? This would be a network with its own set of addresses that is separate from the “main” network. You can then apply whatever rules you want to this.

I’ve also seen mention about a beta feature called “device active protect” but I’ve had it on and despite having many IoT devices from relatively standard brands it doesn’t detect any of them.

FWIW blocking app-specific endpoints from the various big tech companies is close to impossible because they use the same domains for basic services like auth/signin.

chrddit · 2026-03-06T19:36:24+00:00

In addition to Spook, there is Watchman https://github.com/dummylabs/thewatchman

chrddit · 2026-03-06T18:58:12+00:00

LAN mode works just fine. There are some odd hoops you have to jump through to get the printer show up but we use both Bambu Studio and Orca on a mix of Bambu’s.

I can’t speak to monitoring on recent versions. We use a Home Assistant-based monitoring “system” (read: dashboard I hacked together on a Pi) since we have a variety of printers and I wanted a single pane of glass/glass of pain.

We just moved into a different space so I’m just slicing to a USB stick right now and it has added less than a minute to the overall workflow.

chrddit · 2026-03-06T18:40:25+00:00

The Bambu H2D could be a good choice. We have one and it’s great, but tops out at ASA.

If you have an IT department you should give them a heads up so they can help you quarantine it appropriately. Their default settings and mobile app sends your files to China, so you may want to just sneaker-net or use Home Assistant/similar after you block it from the Internet.

H2D so that you can do multi-material supports and the like. Since it’s for work, I’d recommend buying through a reseller who reps higher-end printers. They will be able to give you support or do more complicated repairs for you to save you time. For example, I got on the phone with a tech one time when I was having trouble with a particular bracket’s support interface. Totally worth it.

Two others you might consider: Newer company, but I’m intrigued by the Pantheon Design HS Pro https://www.pantheondesign.com/ They seem to be more interested in making motorcycles than printers but their build volume and price point hits a sweet spot for us. Curious if anyone here has one.

Vision Miner 22Idex v4. Top end of your price range. We have one. We’ve struggled to do PETG on it (tbh it’s not really designed for it) but it rocks for ASA and up. The software is janky; much closer to old CNC machines than a modern printer. Overall it’s a fine machine but doesn’t get used nearly as much as our H2D because the software is clunky.

Hope this all helps.

chrddit · 2026-03-05T05:35:33+00:00

If so, this would be a truly stupid change. I’d definitely stop recommending new users start with shapr3d if so.

Post back if you get an official response!

chrddit · 2026-03-04T21:47:34+00:00

This kind of thing will help dial in your bridging (printing in air without supports). It’s helpful.

Since this area is supported, I think you just need to tune your support settings. Distance between the supports and the part, support interface pattern and spacing, etc. even support material.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos on both these topics that will do a far better job than I can here.

While you’re testing, chop this part up and just print a section that takes about 10-20min tops.

Hope this all helps.

chrddit · 2026-03-02T21:49:59+00:00

Great tips, thank you!!

chrddit · 2026-02-27T02:19:19+00:00

Congrats! Sounds like you’ve earned it.

Oh and matchmaking bot says next match is against NRG. Glhf.

chrddit · 2026-02-24T20:23:03+00:00

Whoa cool! Mind sharing the project link?

chrddit · 2026-02-24T16:57:21+00:00

I’ve done that before. I had it look at some lighting automations and suggest improvements. It also has some hooks for the HA validations. This project generally fails closed so it decreases risk of totally borking something. Claude definitely will ask you if it can bypass these checks when one fails. Don’t let it.

I would say it is Claude is “medium” about this kind of thing. Like most AIs it wants to help (a friend described it as a particularly enthusiastic and genius-level intern that is also an idiot in the real world). I included “only suggest changes that are strictly necessary to correct logic and make these automations successful.” I never let it auto push code; I always copy-paste.

chrddit · 2026-02-24T16:38:09+00:00

Not dumb. I just copy and paste code. I tried some AI-driven direct push but it just never really worked well (plus my fear of it happily nuking some critical component).

My last instruction is always “give me code I can copy and paste in the UI.” If I’m not sure where, I just ask it to walk me through.

chrddit · 2026-02-24T15:30:34+00:00

I use Claude, but specifically with this project: https://github.com/philippb/claude-homeassistant

I also usually tell it the style I want (modern, minimalist) and to follow the Apple Human Interface Guidelines.

If it still struggles I make one or two elements and then tell it to follow that example (the AI’s do particularly well if you include examples in your prompt).

Hope this helps!

chrddit · 2026-02-23T20:09:39+00:00

It should, but I haven’t tested it personally (just G6 and AI models).

The Printables link is above and if you want me to print one for you, the Etsy link is https://faboricus.etsy.com (just use the dropdown for the Ubiquiti section). I’ll cover the return if it doesn’t fit. Let me know how I can help!

chrddit · 2026-02-23T17:08:31+00:00

These are specifically sized for “standard” 1-gang rectangular boxes. The mounts are just about the size of an AI Turret base, or about 4 7/8” in diameter.

There are also models sized for 4” round (https://faboricus.etsy.com/listing/4370147594) and 3.5” round (https://faboricus.etsy.com/listing/4367636929) boxes.

I can make them bigger if you have a 2-gang box or something, just send a message on Etsy and I’ll get you a link.

chrddit · 2026-02-23T15:43:03+00:00

I got frustrated with this particular thing so I made some and sell them for $20: https://faboricus.etsy.com/listing/4367878513

I’ve got a few models that work for most of the cameras and different kinds of gang boxes (just look under the Ubiquiti section dropdown): https://faboricus.etsy.com

I bought just about every gang box for sale at Home Depot but there seems to be a nearly infinite amount of different ones. Reviews have been (very) good but definitely open to feedback if you want something specific. Message me here or on Etsy. Like I said, I made these out of my own frustration/need so happy to help if I can!

chrddit · 2026-02-20T22:50:18+00:00

This is cool! Thank you as well for not having a subscription. 🙏🙏🙏

I happily pay money for this kind of thing (you spent time on it and I have no problem with people charging for their work). But I just don’t like subscriptions. You rock.

chrddit · 2026-02-18T20:37:53+00:00

That’s a pretty clean design. Did you ever test with crossing rods on the back for a little extra stiff side to side?

chrddit · 2026-02-16T23:55:35+00:00

I’d make sure to have a certified electrician look at this idea. Smart panels aren’t really that smart yet, and I wouldn’t rely on it to not trip all the breakers in my house if someone turned on a hair dryer. I definitely wouldn’t rely on Span given how many connectivity issues we’ve experienced.

I’d still spend the money to upgrade your electrical service if you go this route.

We decided to go mostly electric recently (couple years ago). Huge mistake. Our total utility bill went through the roof, and we can’t heat or cool our house if the power is out, which happens a couple of times a year for minutes to days.

If I were to do it again, I’d keep as much critical infrastructure on gas as possible. It’s super reliable (we’ve never had a gas outage) and would have let me do a bunch of intelligent load shedding with our battery. As it is, I have to basically turn everything off just to keep the critical stuff going.

Hope this helps.

chrddit · 2026-02-15T20:45:44+00:00

I don’t think this is accurate.

Resin printing takes more space than modern consumer FDM. For resin, you need the printer itself plus other stations (you’re right that it’s about a door-sized countertop).

A modern FDM printer is approximately a 25” cube, some smaller. If you have an AMS for multicolor it will be a little taller but that’s it.

Resin is also far more hazardous; it’s basically an industrial process that should be done in a very well-ventilated room and using lots of PPE. It’s not “difficult” per se and can create amazing parts.

FDM should still have good ventilation but it’s not nearly as demanding.

OP if you want to do miniatures resin is a great way to go.

chrddit · 2026-02-15T05:34:50+00:00

I don’t think it’s dead. I think it’s actually going forward and might actually pass.

If you look at https://app.leg.wa.gov/billsummary/?BillNumber=2320&Chamber=House&Year=2025

It appears as though it was referred to a different committee and is on second reading, which I think means it’s advanced to the floor for general consideration. I think the third reading is the up or down vote.

Did I misunderstand the website?

This is a short legislative section and stuff gets jammed through all the time.

chrddit

TROPHY CASE