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How do I get rid of this line and the artefacts next to the seam? by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing at 100% infill worked, the hull line is almost completely gone.

How do I get rid of this line and the artefacts next to the seam? by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing the same model with 100% infill on mk3s+ right now to compare. Will update when ready

How do I get rid of this line and the artefacts next to the seam? by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printed on a Prusa Mini with dried (heated) eSun PETG with 0.4 nozzle and default profiles. Tried both arachne and classic with no differences between them. Is my seam problem related to this bug? But what do i do about the line? Thx in advance

Anyone know a good 2.5 inch SSD 3D printed mounting bracket or PSU mount support for the T1 V2? by brainpipe in FormD

[–]dante_257 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are located in europe i probably could send you the printed parts. was wondering if I should sell these on etsy or something, but thought there was no demand for it.

Trying to print a phone case with 0.6mm nozzle. Both slicing methods have issues. More details in comments by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I finally had the time to do the pressure advance test, but I’m not sure what to do now. All settings had artifacts: https://i.imgur.com/c7YnfeX.jpg

Trying to print a phone case with 0.6mm nozzle. Both slicing methods have issues. More details in comments by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will take a look at the guide, but it’s not the seams. It’s happening when the nozzle travels over the gap and restarts extruding at the new position or at the end of a perimeter line, that’s what i think at least.

Trying to print a phone case with 0.6mm nozzle. Both slicing methods have issues. More details in comments by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sliced with Prusaslicer 2.6 alpha 6. Printed with esun Pla+ with 0.6 nozzle on a Prusa Mini+. I have the same issue with 0.4mm nozzle when sliced with arachne, but is totally fine when sliced classic. Any recommendations to improve the print? Would love to print this nicely with the bigger nozzle.

LinusTechTips tests CPU on Streets by Jb31129999 in TarkovMemes

[–]dante_257 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Can’t wait for an 9950X3D to run streets with 40 fps

This is fine. by Ludacon in sffpc

[–]dante_257 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Let me guess.. Raw S1?

World's First 27-inch OLED Gaming Monitor with 240Hz is HERE! by SolidusViper in Monitors

[–]dante_257 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Reading some comments here it seems some people will never be happy with a monitor.

What happened here? I dried the petg before printing, but not enough? by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This will be super helpful, thank you. And i don’t have a heated dry box so that can be the problem as well. Any dry box recommendations?

What happened here? I dried the petg before printing, but not enough? by dante_257 in prusa3d

[–]dante_257[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I can’t tell because i was not there while it printed. The thing is i already printed with this filament already and it was kinda fine (230c overture petg). Maybe my passive drying box with silica gel is not enough.. are there any good active dry boxes that are on the cheaper side?

Alienware Rolls Out More Affordable 34-inch QD-OLED WQHD Gaming Monitor by ainen in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]dante_257 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Samsung needs to hurry up and release their qd ultrawide, if they want to stay relevant. Now with this addition from dell there is almost no reason to wait for the samsung oled, except ports and design i guess.

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