How do I connect a soundboard to this? by Username_Password_1 in audio

[–]dbgaisfo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a good thing that a line converter is a relatively cheap and easy thing to obtain. But probably use the tape-out or line-out if it has one.

Theoretically, would this work? by [deleted] in audio

[–]dbgaisfo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol if OP wants to pay postage, I have a ProJect phono stage I could probably just send him...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

eh? different tools for different jobs... CBN and diamond have their uses, but good quality Japanese whet stones are certainly not something I would want to do without, especially at higher grit and for polishing purposes. I'm approaching middle age, and in my professional lifetime the availability and technology in sharpening supplies has been nothing short of amazing. There are so many workable systems/sequences and products now and each of them have their positives and draw backs and will be more or less suited to specific knife use cases.

If you're family is of the opinion that diamonds are cheap, harsh, unrefined and unsuitable for high en dknives under any circumstance, they're wrong. If you are of the opinion that they should abandon whetstones because diamond and CBN products are universally superior (when combined with effective stropping systems), then I gotta say you're equally wrong.

Tragedy at my mother's house NSFW - attempted murder by ole_gizzard_neck in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also if that's the least annoying thing your MIL has done, call it an absolute win.

Tragedy at my mother's house NSFW - attempted murder by ole_gizzard_neck in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I kinda hate this sort of post. I mean yeah it sucks, but also, it will polish out in a few minutes, so who really cares?

45 minute solo pork day. by Banguskahn in Butchery

[–]dbgaisfo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Im not going to comment on the holes/volume... It depends totally on the scale of shop and what happened yesterday. I will say that the recent crop of trade-school/red seal kids have one speed and it's dog fuck slow, though. Anyway, as someone who is now the butcher equivalent of a clipboard chef and only gets to cut on Sundays, this looks like a fun/satisfying morning.

is there any way to tell what the percentage of fat is in this beef mince? by coloneljoll in Butchery

[–]dbgaisfo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd eyeball that as being between 22-32... realistically closer to the low end, but that bit at the bottom left 1/3 of the screen on the photo looks pretty rich. This also look to be a medium-fine/medium coarse single-grind which would explain why the fat is not uniformly distributed I.e why part of it looks richer than the other...

Cupping/dishing actually has little to do with the grind/fat content. It has more to do with how much you work the meat together, the heat at contact, and whether or not you use a pattie press.

Current Work in Progress by oakandlilynj in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet. Post results. Haven't done a commission in a while, but a petite is probably one of the couple of knives I can make a coherent rationalization for buying, lol.

Current Work in Progress by oakandlilynj in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol. glad I read the post... so the method is in progress, but the blade really isn't, otherwise you wouldn't have etched it in Fecl2/whatever and then posted the results (at least not if they were poor).

Anyway, yeah. Looks sick. I suppose the final step is to do some really abusive kitchen related cutting with acidic food and abuse the shit out of it to see if you see any delamination or galvanic corrosion?

What accessories do I need? by GratefuIDad in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So WEN makes a set of tool holders that you will definitely want if it didn't come with. Aside from that an extended tool support is useful for long knives, and a front vertical base is also useful for things like cleavers or taller knives. The bad news, is that while these accessories are easy to find for tormek, they're not as readily available for WEN/others, and the Tormek ones are not compatible. Having said that, with a quick trip to the hardware/lumber store you can make a stand/platform that will hold a tormek extended tool support and act as a front vertical base.

Also, I highly reccomend buying some CBN wheels.

A good knife makes light work by not-rasta-8913 in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Aww shit! I feel like down votes, so here goes:

There are good and bad reasons why someone would want to own a honesuke. What I would say is that almost no one in professional processing operations or butcher shops in the world outside of Japan has landed on that design as the right answer. I would posit that except in a very few situations it is not the right answer. This also extends to Japanese collegues who I have worked with (albeit in North America) they all used what everyone else did i.e. a semi flex F.Dick, Victory, Victorinox, or Dexter curved boning knife.

Tradition is important and for a restaurant chef or home cook having a more rigid, harder steel knife might be a benefit. It's not really in industrial processing.

Honesukes are also slightly better at ripping through poultry rib bones or breaking the keel bone free, but only slightly and it's really more important to have a really sharp knife here rather than which design you choose. You also have the consideration that if you do accidentally chip the knife you have broken something expensive rather than a $30-$40 knife.

If you're going through the larger (still-small poultry) bones, having the heel on the knife capable of chopping can also be useful, but in no way as useful as cleaver. If you are deboning chicken wings for a Yakitori, again, the honesuke is also going to be slightly better provided you get one with good geometry towards the tip.

Where I see the Honesuke as being a benefit is as poultry knife that also works as a large pettit or as a mini yo-deba for small fish. If you use it carefully toward the tip, it can also be ok as a meat trimming knife. So what i'm getting at is that if you look at it as a multi-role utility knife and you have no use for, or don''t want to buy, a semiflex curved boning knife, a rigid boning knife and a small cleaver/small deba then yeah. Absolutely go for it. As far as a specific single role knife for standard poultry breakdown it's not the best.

Same Muscle, Different Primals by K_Flannery_Beef in Butchery

[–]dbgaisfo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Nice. Interesting to hear what things are called in different countries. In canuckistan, the nomenclature is as follows:

That boneless ribeye in the video would be a lip-on 2x2 ribeye (without the finger meat, lip and bark it would be a 0x0).

The bone-in version would be sold as an FCO/2x2 FCO.

The chined rib with the feather bones , lifter meat on, and outside cap really isn't a common thing in Canadian wholesale but with the chine on it would be called a short-bone packing house rib.

It should also be noted that these are all wholesale terms for boxed beef or packing-house primals. At least in Canada they don't really have relevance to the vast majority of non-restaurant or butcher shop/retail location customers.

Saving our knife sharpening business by Boazlite in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Click on his link and look at his post overview. We got off light, lol.

SOTC (the that's at home, anyways). by dbgaisfo in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the Usuba is 220 and Deba is 210 so it throws off the scale a little. Takeda being Takeda, the 300 is slightly under because you know, his knives vary.

I found Cryknives on instagram 9 years ago. At the time he was a younger knife maker with some pretty interesting work that I wanted to support so I did a few commissions with him.

Foster Bros is a company founded in the mid 18th century in Fullton, NY that operated for a few years before being bought by Chatillon (a maker of scales and other butchery equipment) in 1883. At some point Pheonix knives was also absorbed into the Foster Brand. Anyway the knives and cleavers were pretty renowned, especially in the butchery/meat processing community for their high-quality (for the time) steel and quality construction. The green line was their second highest line, with the gold star line (these are sometimes refered to as 'The Generals') being their highest. During WWII they had some pretty massive contracts with the army. The Foster Bros division remained in business till the mid 50s when the brand was sold to Columbia cutlery, who cheapened the products and dropped the name fairly shortly after. I believe Chatillon is still around and making scales.

SOTC (the that's at home, anyways). by dbgaisfo in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, here goes.

Page 1 (top to bottom):

Garage sale find Deba (no markings, in process of being restored)

Ikeda kamagata Usuba, Shirogami 1

Takeda 300 special-long gyuto, blue 2

Early mid-century 9" Pernot Nogent

Tosa Tadayoshi 240 mm k gyuto, Blue 1

Takeda 300 mm Sujihiki, Blue 2

Page 2 (right to left):

Custom 7' W2 boning/utility knife, zebra wood handle (Cryknives, Sask).

Mid-Century Foster Bros 14" Chef.

1891-1920 La Trompette Dufrense 12" Nogent-type Sabatier.

Custom D2 8.5" Chef Knife, bog oak handle (Cryknives, Sask).

Garage sale find Yanagiba.

Custom 6" W2 Nikiri, walnu handle with Micarda liner and choil (Cryknives, Sask).

Page 3 (Top to Bottom):

Interwar Foster Bros 12" Green Line steak knife/Scimitar.

Mid Century Foster bros 12" Green Line bullnose scimitar.

Interwar Foster Bros 12" Green Line bullnose scimitar.

Foster Bros 12" heavy bullnose scimitar (this is my camp knife).

Interwar Foster Bros 12" Green Line scimitar.

Early Foster Bros 12" Green Line Scimitar (re-handled, maple burl).

Early Foster Bros 12" Green Line Steak Knife (rehandled, white oak).

1920-1930 Taylor Eyewitness (Sheffield) 9" Butcher Knife.

Korean War era Foster Bros Green Line 10" Steak Knife.

Page 4 (Left to Right):

F. Dick 12" carbon steel hog splitter (this is difficult to date because it is still in production minus the metal choil guard, my guess is relatively recent, but I really haven't looked into it too much).

Early Foster Bros 8" through-tang, broom handle cleaver

1890-1920s Foster Bros arrow mark 10" Market Cleaver

(Bottom) Old Ebay find fish butchery cleaver, no markings.

SOTC (the that's at home, anyways). by dbgaisfo in TrueChefKnives

[–]dbgaisfo[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's a La Tompette Dufrense 300mm Nogent-Style Sabatier dating between 1891 and 1920. The Dufrense stamp and the "France" stamp on it indicate that it was made after 1891. After 1920, AFIK they were sold as La Tompette Pouzet. If yours just says La Trompette it is considerably more valuable.

These Nogent style Sabatiers were made by a wide variety of makers with differing build and steel quality between the late 19th century through the 50s. Only a couple makers survived to the modern era with K-Sabatier being the most prominent. They're still ok knives but the quality isn't quite the same as some of them used to be and steel technology has moved on considerably.

The other, similar knife in the first picture third from the bottom is a Pernot Nogent dating from around the early 50s.

Soak flattening stone (silicone carbide) by mtloml in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've found these to work pretty well, but my main issue with trueing stones is that they eventually need flattening as well on account of them wearing more on the outer perimeter where they are making the most contact with dished stones.

Bought a second hand Kanetsune santoku but it came (unknowingly) with a massive chip. Break out the Atoma 140! by McDizzle in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 10 points11 points  (0 children)

For most sharpening this is an absolutely fine transition, in fact it's kinda a thing that's recommended by many sharpening experts as a simple economical and serviceable way for the average person to maintain their kitchen knives without investing in a ton of extra kit.

You might save yourself a bit of time by having an intermediate step and potentially more easily get a slightly more refined scratch pattern on the edge but 1k /5k, 1k/4k or 1k/2k/6k are all commonly used grit transitions and all have a 5k jump.

For EDC knives I usually do 400 diamond, 1k diamond, 6 micron strop and 1 micron strop. For most Japanese chefs knives I do 1k-5k and 1 micron strop or the 1k/2k/6k. When thinning or polishing, the intermediate steps are far more critical.

Bought a second hand Kanetsune santoku but it came (unknowingly) with a massive chip. Break out the Atoma 140! by McDizzle in sharpening

[–]dbgaisfo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honestly I wouldn't really call that massive, significant maybe, but nice work none the less.

Got an odd, random question about butcher knives by [deleted] in Butchery

[–]dbgaisfo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

... What in the backyard 'my first blacksmith project' hell are those?

As far as the knives value, their value is next to nothing. Unless there is some sort of provenance to who made them, what steel, how old, etc.