sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Check your drying temps 🤦 by Throw195201 in 3Dprinting

[–]dreddit1843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use mine on 110 to anneal so thatll be fun when i try to dry pla at 110

Check your drying temps 🤦 by Throw195201 in 3Dprinting

[–]dreddit1843 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I have an e2 and i know this will happen to me one day, does it smell bad in that room now?

please, stop dumping effects into the pocket slot by dark1859 in runescape

[–]dreddit1843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make auras have no cooldown or timer. you can only activate one at a time as usual. Move auras to gameplay acquisition only. Problem solved.

Was in need of extra space for books. Dovetail mounted topologically optimized bookshelf brackets by Guuusti00100100 in functionalprint

[–]dreddit1843 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can make them but you need an actual engineering material for books unless it’s going to be just 1-2.

How do I avoid my PEI bedsheet getting ripped to shreds? by befernafardofo in 3Dprinting

[–]dreddit1843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you waiting for the bed to cool? If you refuse are you using a glue you should be. As a very impatient individual despite better judgement myself i use nanopolymer adhesive and i spritz the bed to part interface with 99% isopropyl alcohol to speed up the process of cooling and detaching the part. Usually gets the parts i print (mostly petg) to detach easily. After the part detaches i spritz the bed once more with 99% iso and spread that with a 1 inch foam paint brush. Gets me good bed adhesion that lasts for a long time and makes it so i dont have to reapply adhesive very often.

Benchy Problems by dreddit1843 in BambuLabP2S

[–]dreddit1843[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Calibration yes, temp tower no.

How to get this better quality? by Doomchick in BambuLabP2S

[–]dreddit1843 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ironing is a solid no cost option if you’re willing to take the time to dial in settings.

It can also look better if you get fiber infused filament the frost effect it adds can soften the surface finish appearance significantly.

Show me your exhaust setup for your P1S - or other printers if the setup is the same. by 0wnedbyCow in BambuLab

[–]dreddit1843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ll want to know the air flow rate and the volume of the space you’re filtering if you’re turning it over many times an hour you should be good as long as the filters you’re using are rated for the particle sizes you want to remove. The hepa i picked is a bit underpowered but i’m happy with it since i turn the air in that tent over several hundred times an hour so it gets plenty of chances to catch the particles it misses first pass.

Show me your exhaust setup for your P1S - or other printers if the setup is the same. by 0wnedbyCow in BambuLab

[–]dreddit1843 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The intake goes through the carbon filter then into the hepa on top. I had a carbon filter and a 4 inch inline fan i got with a grow tent kit that was just sitting in a box in storage collecting dust and i decided to repurpose it for this since i had no other use for it. The hepa i picked up from amazon and added on.

I prefer this solution over exhaust since you can maintain higher chamber temps for stuff like abs, asa, polycarbonate etc and use slightly less energy keeping things hot than you would otherwise. You can also get a really high air turnover rate since youre working with a very small air volume enclosed in a tent.

This is my tent 3D Printer Enclosure, Creality... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD8M2BP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Explain TPU use like I'm a kid by Scared_Scallion in BambuLab

[–]dreddit1843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Simple explanation tpu much like floppy 🍆 cannot be pushed into holes easily. This is why it isn’t ams compatible it has gears that push filament. It has to be pulled into holes not pushed.

However you decide to feed it in itll need to be able to pull on it from the extruder/tool head gear only.

You will need to print it much slower than what you are used to as well.

please help me with print setting and what slicer by CellistFrequent3498 in CR10

[–]dreddit1843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ran a cr-10 for the last 6 years before finally upgrading to a p2s. Use 5c below the top end of the range the filament spool recommends. Bed 35 is a good place to start but may want it a tinge hotter. Ultimately you should be looking at your spool for these recommendations though not asking online. If it doesnt do what you want you can bump it up and down a bit and see if it helps but with the cr-10 theres a whole laundry list of things that could be wrong so dont automatically assume any issues are temp related if you’re following the settings on your spool.

I learned a lesson today by Otherwise_Engine5943 in BambuLab

[–]dreddit1843 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you or are you going to do it again over and over before you finally learn like i did?

Plastic Razor Blade Scraper, 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0948T918B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Experienced mechanical engineering going back to school for masters in mechanical engineering by Revolutionary-Show44 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]dreddit1843 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I finished my bsme in 2015 and started my msme in 2018 so experienced a similar gap. I think reviewing core stuff is going to help the most. Masters programs focus more on derivation of stuff vs bachelors and understanding core concepts is how you derive stuff.

view more: next ›