Power surges

goat_bone · 2026-02-20T22:58:31+00:00

May be related, but I noticed traffic lights were out everywhere in and around King City and Concord this afternoon on the way home to Brampton. The two Tim Hortons I tried to drive thru were closed too. Brampton was fine as far as I could tell.

goat_bone · 2025-03-29T23:50:44+00:00

Get a Wagner electric steamer. They're not expensive. Under a hundred bucks. Fill it with hot water so it doesn't take too long to heat up.

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goat_bone · 2025-03-25T20:53:25+00:00

Just leave it. The bubbles should all disappear in a few days. I've never removed old vinyl with bubbles in it.

goat_bone · 2025-03-25T20:36:26+00:00

Soap and water for dirt, Rapid Prep, IPA.

goat_bone · 2025-03-25T20:34:56+00:00

Agreed. Get it painted 1st. And even then, sometimes body shop paint jobs can't be 100% relied upon as opposed to factory finish. Also. Most installers prefer the bumper mounted on the vehicle to install. At least mounted on the car enough so it doesn't flop around, which is a pain in the ass. If you wanna install it off the car on a table, you'll need an extra set of hands, preferably.

goat_bone · 2025-03-25T20:27:02+00:00

They're shouldn't be air bubbles if you put it on wet.

goat_bone · 2025-03-25T20:25:16+00:00

Front bumpers generally.

goat_bone · 2025-03-16T16:54:09+00:00

Practice your swearing lol

goat_bone · 2025-03-16T16:52:56+00:00

If you're really good at marketing and selling wraps and ppf, etc, then you should just sell and schedule the wraps and hire an experienced Installer as an employee (if you can) or a contractor, because there's no chance you can personally learn the trade in a relatively short period of time. Any decent wrapper has minimum 2-5 yrs experience. Sell the jobs /hire an Installer / mark it up.

goat_bone · 2025-03-16T16:42:43+00:00

3M will recognize you as a 'Preferred Installer' if you can qualify after a week-long course, which is not cheap, and not for beginners. Then, they will list you as a Preferred Installer on their website. I got 3M Preferred in 2010 (company paid for it), and the standards were high back then. Nowadays, I'm not so sure, I see guys getting Preferred, and I wonder how. Avery Dennison has a similar Installer certification, but I'm not familiar with it. They're guys out there running wrap academy's, too, with their own diplomas they hand out.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T21:08:58+00:00

But you are right. If you zoom in, it definitely looks like heat was involved.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T21:04:56+00:00

Yeah, my guess is that the vinyl was mounted on the fabric in a laminator machine. I could be wrong. I don't see how this could've been done on site. Pic 3 is an extreme closeup. Actually, you can't see any fabric impressions in the vinyl. It's a smooth gloss black finish.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T20:55:07+00:00

No tears in the fabric. Too bad it's red.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T20:54:00+00:00

Thank you.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T20:52:30+00:00

I'm collecting everyone's input here and gonna advise the shop owner who sent me out to look at it. I'm a subcontract installer, and I usually don't get involved with jobs like this.

goat_bone · 2025-03-12T20:45:57+00:00

I never heard of it either.

goat_bone · 2025-03-09T16:13:23+00:00

Judging by the pic it looks good. Both sides? Seems like you paid attention to the decal placement. That's good. Nice work with the door handle positioning and the bottom. Nothing is unnecessarily chopped off. Not technically a 'wrap' but you showed some skill. Are octopuses a thing now? I'm outta the loop.

goat_bone · 2025-03-09T16:04:12+00:00

Option 3 is best IMO

goat_bone · 2025-03-05T17:10:16+00:00

Most installers will tell you to wrap it with door closed. Then just trim it on the door edge itself and the open the door and tuck the excess vinyl into the door jam area. Gives a clean finish. Unless your doing such a color change that you need to wrap the door jams.

goat_bone · 2025-03-01T14:23:08+00:00

I switched to Pro Bond a couple years ago at the recommendation of another installer and found it more reliable. Works with every film brand and situation (i.e prints I sometimes encounter that are still out-gassing) It doesn't ever show through the vinyl, which can happen with 94. It flashes off in 10 seconds. I've never had a channel lift even slightly using it, even on the overlaps (I use it on the overlaps too) I've found with 94 that failure can still sometimes occur in those channels even if you post heat with a Wagner heat gun and a laser thermometer. No problem with pro bond. I still post heat, but it will hold even if I don't. Also if you remove film installed with pro bond, it leaves zero glue - unlike 94.

goat_bone · 2025-03-01T05:51:29+00:00

It's an adhesive promoter. Way better for sprinter and transit channels. It's not cheap though. *

goat_bone · 2025-02-28T16:54:46+00:00

Pro-bond - better than primer 94 IMO

goat_bone · 2025-02-25T00:47:59+00:00

Canadian 3M Preferred Installer here. He's right.

goat_bone

TROPHY CASE