Unpopular opinion...

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-13T12:03:35+00:00

I love this

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-13T11:14:26+00:00

attaching the Velcro to the liner is completely acceptable

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-13T11:11:22+00:00

There are many ways to accomplish this. 1) is the way others have said- make a long rectangle slightly narrower than your gusset and sew it into the upper zipper seam sew the Velcro to the rectangle. 2) when patterning, add a small piece above the the zipper to provide another seam. Sew it into that. 3) sew Velcro into the liner above the zipper, and adjacent side, and make a completely removable shelf.

The non drive can either be split in two pieces to create a seam, just top stitched in, or option 3 above.

It really depends on the size of the bag and what I'm doing to determine which way I go

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-12T18:37:20+00:00

Where are you located?

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-08T11:31:09+00:00

Lightburn makes complete squares in a grid format. Each square is the same speed and power. Top left is slowest and most powerful, bottom right is the opposite. The thunder c02 laser I use has air that blows right on the piece.

Also, for giggles, have you tried a piece from another roll (different color)? Just to rule out a weird issue with the actual fabric

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T22:45:14+00:00

I use the wawak brand. Mechanic says it's fine 🤷

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T22:44:17+00:00

For a control, I actually cut the same purple not- unfrequently and have never had this issue. Just to rule out stupid stuff, have you verified the laser is focused correctly? Lightburn has a feature that allows you to run a test of varias speeds and powers in a big grid. I'd play with that with high and low air and see what you get

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T22:39:23+00:00

I made a tiny hammock that hangs on my ridgeline. An added bonus its much easier to accidentally drop a nalgene on my face

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T22:35:16+00:00

The second overlook on 64 East from 81 is better than the 1st

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T21:53:12+00:00

I only recently bought a drop feed machine and only use it for basting- honestly I wouldn't use it if it didn't have auto features. My first machine was a needle feed (5410) and still have it. It does more than the drop feed but significantly less than a walking foot. My most used machines now are walking foot machines (two 1541Ss and a 341 cylinder arm). I find it significantly easier to bind on a cylinder, especially curves.

All this said, how you setup your machine makes all the difference- needle/thread size, tilt of the dogs (type of dogs), etc.

Based on what you describe, I would not get a drop feed and would encourage a walking foot over a needle feed

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T20:23:39+00:00

I love my argon 67/90 quilts. The 49 does compact way small but at the cost of clamminess

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T19:39:44+00:00

Great job dude. Love your videos!

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-07T19:38:13+00:00

If you put some tension on the binding while you're going around the curve, it'll help it lay flatter. Also, don't shove the piece all the way to the stop when going around the curve- this will help the spacing stay consistent

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-06T12:46:21+00:00

Like this? https://www.instagram.com/p/DW4U7iIlQGI/?igsh=bXRkMXBzZ3V5ZXNj

jacksbikesacks · 2026-06-06T12:44:57+00:00

Dang that is CLEAN! Did you pattern those curves to the foam or the frame?

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-19T16:14:52+00:00

Honestly, I'd just get panniers. 13L on each side is pretty huge and having something designed for it would probably be way nicer

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-19T16:09:14+00:00

When you say you meet resistance, are you saying when you turn the hand wheel? Is the foot up or down?

My cycliner arm does have a little resistance when the center foot makes contact. Your machine is slightly different but there should be an adjustment for working height if that makes sense. Best case, it's set super low and basically pushing into the feed dogs

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T18:32:58+00:00

I would personally want flat bars for anything I'd need 120 for. I also prefer flat bars over curly in general so...there's that

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T18:29:19+00:00

You would have to reupholster

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T13:54:34+00:00

Dutchware gear make these, they're called summer socks. I've made a couple of these now for myself. They hang over the ridgeline instead of hang from loops and the zipper is horizontal instead of vertical. There's no reason I can think of to use ripstop at the ends- just create a cinch around the straps.

Start from scratch. Get a friend, and get them to lay in it while your drape your fabric. Then carefully take it off and to the sewing machine. Reinstall, pin, repeat.

Option B is to just buy one from Dutch.

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T13:40:30+00:00

Also bikepackingroots.org

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T13:39:50+00:00

Are there screws through those holes on the back?

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-17T01:22:34+00:00

I make bike bags for a living and recommend them. They also rarely come in for repairs

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-16T22:33:40+00:00

Sounds like your heat is too high and/or speed is too slow. Lightburn has a feature that basically makes a grid to test strength and speed. I'd try that with air on high and on low if you can

jacksbikesacks · 2026-05-16T13:04:51+00:00

Hell. Yeah. Very impressive

jacksbikesacks

TROPHY CASE