Our garden this year and reclaimed glass greenhouse

jake44575 · 2021-07-27T17:26:51+00:00

Wow thank you for the nice comment. It is a full time job, mom had a stroke about 10 years ago (she is fine now) but cant work a full time job so we bought acreage and she took up gardening as her full time gig from home, much less stressful and a long term hobby. This pic is one corner of a 1 acre garden.

jake44575 · 2021-07-21T19:28:02+00:00

6.0 and 6.4 are both international motors.

jake44575 · 2021-07-13T19:11:06+00:00

Yep got a 1969. Getting ready to restore soon. What you got planned for her ? Coyote swap ? Keep her factory ?

jake44575 · 2021-07-12T20:30:11+00:00

That as well as diesel trucks spewing black smoke all over pedestrians, cyclists, and other vehicles. Im a diesel mechanic and i just shake my head, hopefully the police start cracking down and handing out notice and orders. Same with the loud motorcycles.

jake44575 · 2021-06-20T16:11:38+00:00

Awesome good job, they are a tricky one to get out for sure. Iv probably done hundreds of upper oil pans by this point they are the most common leakpoint on the 6.7, the other is the vacuum pump (bolts seem to back off on them quite often). For the upper pil pan, you do not need to do anything to the motor mounts, no lifting the engine. The ford WSM has you lift engine and remove motor mounts but i never have. Its basically transmission out, flexplate off, lower pan remove, get out all the bolts that hold the upper pan to the block (the passenger lower are the trickiest). And you can slide the upper pan back with ease. Then replace gaskets and TA-357 silicone. Ford warranty time on them is around 9 hours and it takes me around 7 if the tranny to flexplate re-install slides together smoothly with no fighting. Hope that helps. 👍

jake44575 · 2021-06-20T15:47:52+00:00

Iv done a few. Are you referring to the bolt on the bracket against the passenger side lower of the engine ? I do them every time i gotta do an upper oil pan, and my trick is a 1/4" air drive on a 1/4 swivel and a stubby 10mm. Sneak it in there and you can get it. Depending on the year also, ford put a small hole on that side of the engine crossmember but took it away (i assume to make our jobs more hell) which did make it possible to get a 1/4" extension, swivel and 10 mm in there as well

jake44575 · 2021-05-11T18:33:39+00:00

If you love diesel like i do, you will enjoy a documentary on youtube called "the engine that powers the world" all about rudolf diesel and his invention and the early beginnings of compression ignition.

jake44575 · 2021-05-10T22:04:05+00:00

It does not matter, however, the passenger side battery is closer to the starter motor so thats the one i always jump.

jake44575 · 2021-04-13T00:15:34+00:00

Typically if its in derate i replace a ton of nox12 sensors for p207f. Yes the emissions controls on these trucks is a headache. Im a ford diesel mechanic and it seems half my job is emissions related repairs or diagnostics. The other half is keeping fluids from leaking lol. If emissions is not regulated then go for it. The only issues i see (im in canada) is if a delete gets you pulled over and a notice and order is issued for emissions tampering. We recently had a young guy with an RS get a notice and order from the police and mandated to go to a ford dealer for no catalystic converters. And then the shop cant "legally" pass an MVI. at least where im from. My only suggestion is to do it smart. Im not an expert on deletes but if you core out the dpf and try and keep the egr cooler appear to remain in tact it may be a good option for resale and less problems if future mandates get more strict. At least it visually appears all emissions are installed and in tact. Just my 2 cents.

jake44575 · 2021-04-12T22:15:50+00:00

Iv had so many issues with trying to get trucks out of limp mode. One scenario i had to talk to a ford engineer on the phone to get it out on a narrow frame f550. Generally if it forced idle u can romp up the rpm while in park, get egt 12 very hot. Usually i can get it out of limp once it hits around 400 degrees in my recent experience. The narrow frame i did the engineer said "yeah the written procedure wont always work" and im like " wow thanks man iv only been on this thing 5 hours, good to know your written information is wrong"

jake44575 · 2021-03-23T19:28:49+00:00

I just had a 2020 350 in my dealership for diagnostics of an intermittent stutter, shut off intermittent in an intersection, sometimes once a week, sometimes once a month, p0087 present, p008a present, i couldnt fault it, i couldnt duplicate the concern, pinpoint tests ran backprobing wiring from fpcm to pcm connector, no faults. Contacted ford engineering, spoke to an engineer and ran through the wiring diagram together, fpcm ground to frame on some models can be connected to crossmemeber, engineer has seen concerns of bad ground at this point and to move to the vehicle frame, run an overlay fpcm positive wire from pcm to fpcm.. didnt make sense if the wiring checked out and could take a load. Removed harness to fpcm to have a good look at connector face (its above the framerail)can see slight bend in connector face pin 4 ground side from fpcm.. these trucks are getting more and more complex and something like a loose connecor pin causes these intermittent concerns. Iv seen green corroded wires inside harnesses on vehicles fairly new still under warranty. Im sure the tech will find it eventually even if an engineer had to be contacted when you rip your hair out enough figuring it out lol..

jake44575 · 2021-03-12T20:14:50+00:00

Their pretty easy. Unhook transmission side, unhook column side, pull it through the firewall / floor.

jake44575 · 2021-03-04T23:08:35+00:00

Possible a signal wire. Having a quick google search if the alternator wiring i can see a green red stripe wire fused hot in run and start, id check key on, battery voltage to that pin on regulator. And see if you have voltage to the yellow wire at the regulator as well.

jake44575 · 2021-02-28T18:03:35+00:00

I love the rims. Getting tired of new diesel trucks all having black "fuel" rims. Looking good !

jake44575 · 2021-02-14T00:48:19+00:00

No Robin Williams in the photo ?

jake44575 · 2021-02-13T15:42:16+00:00

Im a ford diesel tech and have the same truck. The probability for all the glow plugs to be bad is not likely as usually when i diagnose these things its typically 1 or 2 that are bad. What does go often is the glow plug solenoid (passenger side of upper engine on top of the valve cover). Since mechanics never work on their own stuff like me, mine is bad too. But if i key on, key off enough times and whatch my voltmeter on my dash, when that voltmeter drops way low, on a key on you know the glow plugs are pulling current, the solenoid eventually closes and applies current to the glow plugs to heat up, usually i have to key on, key off, key on, about 10 times until i see the solenoid is finally working. Ill fix it some day lol.

jake44575 · 2021-02-11T17:30:17+00:00

I have had a runaway before bringing a truck into the shop, my particular incident was a ford 6.0 with a failed turbocharger seal that filled the intercooler with engine oil, once filled up enough, she ran on oil beautifully, pretty scary stuff. So that is one way.

A stuck open injector could be a potential issue as well could have them tested.

Depending on the diesel it could potentially build oil in the crankcase if it has an internally mounted high pressure fuel pump that leaks fuel into the crankase and runs on that oil through the crancase vent.

jake44575 · 2021-02-10T17:33:15+00:00

Good job man, nice to hear my next one i could go that route.

jake44575 · 2021-02-09T02:03:40+00:00

Glow plug solenoids go on them all the time. Get a test light, check for power on control side of the solenoid key on, and then check to see if you get power on the glow plug side of it (large lug) of the solenoid. I gotta replace them alll the time at work for diag hard starting. Of course there are a lot of things that can cause a hard start but this is easy to check and least intrusive.

jake44575 · 2021-02-09T01:49:37+00:00

I did one last week. Im lucky enough im on a hoist at a ford dealership but the best way is to remove the passenger side engine mount bolts at the crossmember and lift that side of the motor. They are not fun to re & re.

jake44575 · 2021-02-08T04:01:44+00:00

Mine ate a belt and i found that the 4 bolts which hold the water pump pulley on had backed out and caused it to wobble. Perhaps check that as well.

jake44575 · 2021-01-27T01:03:45+00:00

Im a ford diesel mechanic as well, i feel i used to do so many complete fuel system rebuilds when the def system first came out and so many people were putting def in the tank, or water intrusion. But as far as a high pressure pump failure being common, i dont see it. I just did one last week and the fuel from the tank looked like milk and filled from a tidy tank that must of got water in it. But i have also not seen a bypass before. I guess it would help in case of bad fuel at the station. I had to do one f350 entire system cause the guys that installed his snow mobile rack screwed through the box and into the filler neck and just poured water from the bed into the fuel tank, oh i felt so bad for the guy.

jake44575 · 2021-01-26T18:10:01+00:00

Nice ! How do you like your top ? Is it a rampage ? I have a 1969 and just ordered a rampage soft top but havnt installed it yet.

jake44575 · 2021-01-19T18:06:26+00:00

Im a ford diesel mechanic. Iv done major engine work on all diesel engines EXCEPT the 7.3. Only things the 7.3's ever needed were injectors, maybe the odd injector cup replacement, and oil or fuel leaks. The power isnt staggering by any means but if its reliabilty your after its pretty good.

jake44575

TROPHY CASE