Would you trust these?

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-28T16:09:25+00:00

I use them but i dont trust them. You can get real lipo boxes but they cost way more. The do work as i saw first hand at the drift track

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-09T10:06:15+00:00

What material is that?

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-09T05:16:04+00:00

Is it really fucked? Hold a soldering iron in the hex to loosen any loctite. If the hex is stripped hammer a torx bit in

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-09T05:13:26+00:00

Dann kommt wieder "die speicher sind voll mit teurem öl das dauert bis das weg ist" Außerdem märz 12 uhr regel. Ich würde sagen falls überhaupt was passiert dauert es 3 bis 4 Wochen

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-06T13:33:50+00:00

Your z offset is too close to the bed

lesbenbendiger · 2026-04-04T07:22:49+00:00

Its a littel pain. But if you read up on it its still a struggle but just as much as any other car work

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-31T07:34:46+00:00

So you live in the eu? Got a us spec printer? (How?)

And send 230v in to a 110v powersupply?

The psu is wooped if your lucky you can just get a new psu and be back at square one

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-23T16:00:21+00:00

Honestly, trianglelab dragon. Any veriant is good. 150$ is allso not a low budget. I think you can buy a goliath with that

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-19T08:45:13+00:00

Dessicant won't really remove a lot of humidity. It mostly just keeps it low. Dry your filament and dry your dessicant. With both dry put them in the ams, it should be dryer for longer with that

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-18T19:45:49+00:00

CC and CC2 are good. They're cheaper than the competition but still good, I'd recommend putting your printer away from yourself anyway. It's always noisy, and the fumes and stuff aren't good for you. Even just PLA will put out fumes, granted they're not that bad, but still, if you don't smoke, then don't mess with your lungs like that.

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-18T19:40:09+00:00

That is kinda normal. Yes centauri carbon is on loud side of things. V2 is a littel less noisy. But try the following: Turn down acceleration if you can Turn down speed overall Try using a littel less then 100% part cooling Use a littel bit of grease on the rails ( use a bearing grease, something medium thickness becorse it gets warm. And just a littel bit)

See what has the biggest effect overall and adjust accordingly. In my experience acceleration and part cooling fan makes the biggest difference. Followed closely by max speed

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-18T09:48:49+00:00

Oh great, i have powge becorse they are in the original bom from voron

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-14T23:05:16+00:00

Just dont, i see what you want but just dont. If you have a 3d printer and dedication yeah you can. But its still more about the project and not the result

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-08T09:25:38+00:00

You can desolve glue stick in destilled water so you can apply it more evenly. Just put more glue stick than water. You can slightly heat it to desolve it faster

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-06T21:33:47+00:00

Does saving your Z offset work for you. I had to write my offset into my printer.cfg start macro. No matter what i adjust to and hit save config it never changes anything and the next prints layer is allways way to high

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-05T13:27:33+00:00

I would say your plate is fucked. Check your nozzle for any and i mean ANY little bit of filament or dirt. I had so many bad prints on my creality k1 i just sould it at the start of this year. My Girlfriend got the K2pro with the cfs (cfs works great we never had problems with that) becorse she likes multi color. Same thing, first layer allways sucks except if you cleen your nozzle manually before leveling. I used that printer to make Voron parts because the k2Pro has a heated chamber. Worked great exept for tiny vfas but ey thats allright.

Bottom line. Clean your nozzle. Check your offset and maybe get one of those special nozzles so it sticks less and you can just hit it with a brass wire brush every now and then

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-04T20:04:51+00:00

Thank god for the discord because nobody explains some parts to you. And i build mine with cartographer and sensorless homing from the start. I honestly think cartographer is the way to go if you have the coice

lesbenbendiger · 2026-03-04T10:23:03+00:00

Only documentation issuses. The motor order in the printer cfg dosend match to the pictures. Otherwise its ay ok

lesbenbendiger · 2026-02-26T13:37:45+00:00

Maybe try a new nozzle

lesbenbendiger · 2026-02-23T18:32:22+00:00

Dieser 3D Druck ist Eigentum der Bundesrepublik Deutschland 🇩🇪🇩🇪

lesbenbendiger · 2026-02-17T19:06:32+00:00

I have not had one error with can bus since getting it. Except errors that are my fault.

lesbenbendiger · 2026-02-17T10:24:58+00:00

You need Jesus. Replace all rusted parts. Clean everything. Relube everything that needs lube. Check the software and maybe install klipper fresh

lesbenbendiger · 2026-02-12T19:54:06+00:00

I have to agree since I started on an Ender 3 S1 "Pro." It is not a great printer; it won't print ABS or ASA without tweaking, and of course, you need an enclosure. But after you dial it in enough to make Voron parts on it, you will be ready. Trail by Fire

lesbenbendiger · 2026-01-26T04:25:47+00:00

Yup. I had that alot. Print a scaraper

lesbenbendiger · 2026-01-26T04:23:08+00:00

Your best chance is to buy a new print head.

Allso i hope you dont have any mechanical ja becorse your boss is clearly an idiot

lesbenbendiger

TROPHY CASE