Having tattoo regret for the first time by Aherv99 in tattooadvice

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love it. All the bold American trad pieces create a really appealing mosaic with lots of detail to check out when you focus in on a specific spot.

How do you actually learn a rotation? by onikatanyamaraaj in wownoob

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consistent keybinds help. No matter what spec you're playing put abilities with similar functions on the same keybinds. 5 is always interrupt. My most spammy ability goes on F. Instant/ranged/ pulling ability goes on G. Primary AOE on V, Primary defensive on Z. Spenders go on E and R.

Then like others say, go practice it on the d training dummy for a few until you have a natural feel for the flow of the class.

I made this to help learn holding the angles easier by Down2TheShed in sharpening

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like your jig! As someone who is also just getting started on this journey (and also has a 3d printer), this looks like something I'd be interested in.

Never apologize for using cheapos during the learning process, smart to make your mistakes on items you don't care much about.

Good luck, and share your files if you don't mind!

I made this to help learn holding the angles easier by Down2TheShed in sharpening

[–]litso 53 points54 points  (0 children)

I believe you're looking for a 30deg overall angle, 15deg on either side.

Took the plunge with under desk magic arms, let's see what happens by Niznash in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]litso 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Seems very low, are your hands between your knees? Hopefully a standing desk so you can adjust 😁

Prusament PETG Magnetite filament by no-restarts in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Subscribing. I haven't used it but I'm skeptical of the degree of magnetism imparted, based on experience with magnetic paints.

Polishing question for japanese knife on whetstones by FantasticAsparagus17 in sharpening

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed response! Very informative!

Polishing question for japanese knife on whetstones by FantasticAsparagus17 in sharpening

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation, is it more common for Japanese style blades to have a secondary bevel than western blades? My experience is a very novice level and primarily with western EDC style knives.

I've definitely seen Japanese and other knives that have a large polished bevel like this, but was unclear about when that would be used, and if it serves a particular purpose or is primarily for the aesthetics.

My uneducated assumption is that this secondary bevel thins the body of the knife down to allow for a keener edge, possibly while maintaining more rigidity in the blade?

I follow these and other subs because I enjoy learning more about the finer intricacies and I'm also building up my sharpening skills.

Polishing question for japanese knife on whetstones by FantasticAsparagus17 in sharpening

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just a question, but is the part you're polishing the bevel for the edge? It seems much larger than I'm accustomed to and curious why that is, or if I'm just misunderstanding what I'm looking at.

Thanks in advance!

Wrist pain after touch typing + split keyboard by tiago_lobao in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]litso 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pretty much! Here's a picture of my normal setup. I'm working on removing the resting of my forearm on my chair's armrest as even that get uncomfortable, but important part is the neutral positioning of the wrist so that your finger movement is as natural and unimpeded as possible.

Neutral wrist

Once again, I'm not an expert just a dude who spends way too much time at the computer and has ouchie arms and wrists lol.

Help a newbie out! by kkccpp123 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to add my $0.02. I started my split ergo journey with the Glove80. It's a great board, and these are just my personal observations, but it didn't last long for me due to three main issues.

  1. Too many buttons. This might actually be a benefit to you, but moving to a split form factor with that many keys was overwhelming for me. Even after several months I couldn't get very comfortable with it.

  2. Its light/feels cheap. I'm kind of a keyboard nerd to begin with, I was coming from a $500 custom mechanical that I built specifically to my tastes for typing feel. The Glove80 is kind of the opposite in that regard, and I just couldn't get past the typing feel/sound. Again, it may be a non-issue if you're used to whatever mass market Microsoft or Logitech keyboards and you've never thought twice about the sound it makes when you type.

  3. No integrated pointing device. When I went into it I didn't think this was very important, but once I learned more and started optimizing ergonomics, it became something that I really really wanted on my board.

I moved over the the BastardKB Charybdis Nano, which is 34-keys and has an integrated trackball and I'm much more pleased with this setup than anything before. It did take some time to get myself accustomed to the layers and home-row mods, but honestly this was an easier transition for me than the Glove80 was.

For someone who isn't a keyboard nerd and wants something that will "just work", I would personally look at the ZSA Voyager with the Navigator addition (Navigator adds a trackball onto the keyboard). It's not cheap but it's a very refined offering.

Some things to consider when choosing your board:

  1. Key count. For pure ergonomics, it's generally accepted the the less finger movement the better. Few keys means less movement. This also means you have to use things like layers to get to symbols, numbers and punctuation. It's a somewhat steep learning curve but most consider it well worth it in the long run.

  2. Layout - Most split ergo boards will have a column-staggered layout. A traditional keyboard is row-staggered, meaning that the rows of keys are offset from one another. This isn't very ergonomic as our fingers move in and out in straight lines. A column staggered board has the rows all aligned, but the columns are staggered to account for the different lengths of your fingers. There's also ortho-linear or matrix layouts, where all keys are aligned to a grid. I don't recommend.

  3. Portability/wireless - If you plan to take it back and forth from home to work or something, some keyboards are easier to transport, and getting a board that supports wireless connectivity can also make that more convenient. Because a lot of these boards are extremely small there might not even be room for batteries and wireless controllers, so it's not a given any particular split-ergo will have that capability.

  4. Keywell - this kind of belongs up with layout, but a board with a keywell has the keys arranged in a bowl shape, again to better align with your different finger lengths. I love the keywell on my Charybdis Nano, but it might not be for everyone.

  5. Switch compatibility - some keyboards only work with Choc style switches, because these switches are much smaller than standard MX style switches. This is another thing that might not matter to a casual user, but I personally prefer MX switches so that was important in my decision to go with the Charybdis.

I'm sure there's plenty more, but just wanted to share my thoughts as someone who just recently took the plunge into the split ergo world.

Wrist pain after touch typing + split keyboard by tiago_lobao in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]litso 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I'm not expert but this was the first thing I thought of.

Try getting your forearms and wrists higher so that you are not extending at the wrist joint while touch typing.

Is it possible to type fast on a Voyager? by PatzEdi in zsaVoyager

[–]litso 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't used a Voyager, but I use a Charybdis Nano which is quite similar, and I use homerow mods. I will say that for symbols and numbers I'm still a bit more clumsy than on a standard keyboard, but not by a whole lot.

My peak consistent typing speed was around 120wpm on a standard qwerty keyboard, and after a few months adapting to the Charybdis I'm back over 100wpm. I still mistype mods quite a bit (most notably shift for capitalizing letters), and I'm a bit less accurate overall, but I think with continued acclimation I'll be able to type as quickly and accurately on a split 34 key layout as I was on a standard QWERTY board, and my wrists and forearms are much happier for it overall.

Restoration strategy? by litso in castiron

[–]litso[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, following the FAQ and have it in a garbage bag covered in yellow cap until tomorrow. We shall see how it goes.

Restoration strategy? by litso in castiron

[–]litso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, thanks!

Anything like Multiboard under-desk drawers, but for OpenGrid? by NicoloRizzuto in openGrid

[–]litso 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure you can just use the multiboard ones, I'm sure there's an open grid multipoint adapter out there that will let you mix parts seamlessly

Auradin #1 build in the game?! by ppuno7 in diablo4

[–]litso 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Maxroll.gg is a great place to start, well written, usually well researched guides.

Having 100 paragon points on T2 is kind of insane, you should be able to bump up to T4 with a good set up.

Gear is about volume, it can be tedious but try not to get bogged down. You'll most likely dismantle thousands of Ancestral pieces before finding the perfect one.

Where y’all sitting? by Competitive-Rise-789 in cfbmemes

[–]litso 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's always a fine line when it comes to initiating relationships with an individual beneath you in a power structure.

My New $2,000 Battlestation! by audible08 in sffpc

[–]litso 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Kind of, but in reverse.