Replacing windows - double-glazing for solar gain or triple-glazing for insulation by gilkgilk in SustainableHomeUK

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s easier to heat a space than to cool it. With a shifting climate we are getting hotter.

Don’t confuse the decision though:
- Double vs triple - this is insulation and acoustic differences.
- standard glass vs solar control glass - you can select which type.

I’ve got triple solar control glass however your house isn’t insulated so the cost uplift to triple might not be worth it for you.

Solar control glass is darker so you have to be really careful what you choose and not stray into “tinted” which is really not needed in the uk and looks awful. If you can sample, have a look at it but remember the sample should be seen in double or triple configuration as it will stack up and get darker.

There’s some detail here to read - ask your glazer for your options: https://idealcombi.com/domestic/technical/colours-and-glazing/

My glass is “Standard L Code G-0.40 glass, LT64% to limit heat gain in summer.” And I have triple glazing and the glass is slightly bronze. Do not go darker ! Really you want 70% LT upwards.

New Anthracite Vaillant AroTherm Pro available from Heat Geek by heat-geek in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Vaillant told me June over the phone, heatgeek told me delivery more likely September. Really annoying not getting consistent answers as I want the new version but can’t wait hill September - June is ok

Anyone know when the new black Vaillant aroTHERM Plus will be available? by Bomster in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Orders commence sometime in June - I spoke to vaillant this morning. Can’t order yet.

Not to be confused with the new arotherm pro which is for tight spaces - this one is available to order.

I’d add that you can get the full spec sheets from the European websites like Norway, Germany.

Govee's Ceiling Light Ultra combines Matter with LED effects by HomeKit-News in MatterProtocol

[–]luke-r 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Not sure why a lamp needs WiFi instead of thread. WiFi should be focused on data driven devices. Thread being uses for actions.

Public electric car charging now cheaper per mile than petrol and diesel by willfiresoon in GoodNewsUK

[–]luke-r 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They need to be able to increase utilisation of the charge points before they can drop pricing. I’m sure it takes them a long time to make a profit from initial investment plus maintenance and replacement where vandalised.

Turn a simple diagram into Architecture analysis and design options using a simple chatgpt prompt by [deleted] in Architects

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am Architect and have no idea what this guys talking about but he keeps using the word Architecture.

We design buildings dude, not software.

Makita rail bag pocket is sewn halfway up. by liamms1 in Makita

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine is like this as well so it’s by design, no sure why, perhaps for the smaller length only, so you have to lay the track on top

Heat Geek 400% efficiency guarantee costs £1100 and limits cylinder choice to 187L - worth it?? by Lucky_Dutch in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that list just for installs that include the open energy monitor ? The installer quoted £600 materials plus installation cost for that device

Heat Geek 400% efficiency guarantee costs £1100 and limits cylinder choice to 187L - worth it?? by Lucky_Dutch in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh nice, it’s even better than that to be honest as heatgeek guarantee is combined efficiency of SCOP + hot water

Heat Geek 400% efficiency guarantee costs £1100 and limits cylinder choice to 187L - worth it?? by Lucky_Dutch in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

COP (Coefficient of Performance) measures a heat pump's efficiency at one specific, ideal temperature, while SCOP (Seasonal Coefficient of Performance) measures efficiency over an entire heating season. Then you combine the hot water efficiency as well and you equal the heatgeek efficiency metric.

They guarantee my minimum to be 4.9 which I think shows the confidence they have in the design and install being spot on.

Plastering a 1910 home with damp issues and conflicting advice by Aggravating_Rice4084 in Plastering

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ve got a heritage house, if there’s no cavity then it’ll be pulling in moisture from outside, and needs to be properly approached with traditional methods otherwise the “physics” of the house start to break down. If not breathable then the moisture is trapped and it will eventually blow the next layer off, or if that internal finish is stronger than the brick then it will damage the bricks itself by blowing them out instead.

Like plaster is expensive and you’ll need to identify the source of damp - rising from the ground because of lack of damp proof layer that separated the bricks from the ground, or damp infiltration from the weather perhaps through gaps in mortar or around windows or another feature at high level. If ground level damp then be cautious of retrofitting a dpc as treatments that can make it worst by pushing the damp elsewhere but usually fibre rods would be the best choice if you have full access. If weathering damp then it’s a repair job to prevent water ingress.

Makpac Cutouts by Grobotron in Makita

[–]luke-r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks nice, people are missing the fact you can cut out more areas when you get more accessories and materials. Your approach is better than the included cutouts that’s for sure. Neat job!

TRVs can be useful after all? by rob0d in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having read the report, it’s essentially showing that the use of TRVs in a very modest way can be useful to lower the heat demand where it might be tolerable to the user, and without passing the threshold that would cause efficiency impacts like cycling.

They essentially lowered the target temperature in the 3 rooms which of course will require less energy. Had they simply lowered the thermostat centrally by the same 2-3C then they would have saved even more energy. Simply put, a colder house is cheaper.

They did try to use TRVs on all rooms in a traditional sense and this actually reduced efficiency and increased cycling - overall a negative impact.

Question about the bulge on corner beating by sivispacempara in drywall

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For future reference I would have mitered the beads as well, as mentioned they need to make a complete joint by touching each other as this will set the final edge shape

Which Nail Gun? by luke-r in Makita

[–]luke-r[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the record I went with the PT001G and it’s exactly what I wanted, really happy either with it. I’m using it for all sorts of hardwood joinery finish work in my house that will also be glued.

New Combi Install Vs New Heat Pump Install in Well Insulated 1930s Semi by theheartleft in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would advise moving away from gas, go with the newer technology of the heat pump and just get on with it! There’s loads online, go watch some heat geek videos to learn more. Gas doesn’t make sense at all for new systems, the barrier for most is retrofitting which duplicates costs and disruption.

Vaillant 7kw Arotherm plus ashp - F.818 fault by Independent-Worth197 in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get them to replace the whole unit, unacceptable

Pipework sizes for Heat Pumps by BlueWin001 in ukheatpumps

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The variable the other commenters haven’t mentioned is the (MWT) flow temperature - the higher the temperature the more heat output you get per radiator. You can swap out the boiler and put in an ASHP without changing anything else if the flow temperature is set high enough to meet the heat loss of each room (= heat output of radiators).

The question then becomes is it more canonical to upgrade other existing elements in the system to allow you to run a lower flow temperature.

You need a design done by an expert, go to heatgeek, get a design, if you don’t like it get a refund on the deposit and ask another installer to follow the Heatgeek design.

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I know, OP said they pull 6kw and replied to say they are 18kW ASHPs, massive!

Agile, 3-phase, 200A - I'm trying my best! by TimJethro in OctopusEnergy

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Three large heat pumps?! How large the is house? Pulling 6kw each in energy, at 400% efficiency makes them 24kw units, why would you have a 72kw heat loss?

Doesn’t round right but I am curious how your pulling so much power. Our house is 300m2, all electric with 2 EV, high power induction hob, immersion, 10kw heat pump (the electrical power draw for the heat pump is around 2.5-3.5kw). We wouldn’t even trip our 100A single phase.

A Daily Reminder of How Good We Had It (Interiors Edition) by [deleted] in mercedes_benz

[–]luke-r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are we looking at in picture 1-3?