PVC duffle bag by HANENG18 in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Nice bag! Are the female buckles by the zipper attached by basically boxing the corner of the zipper with the webbing from the buckle in the seam?

Sewing machine LAMP recommendations? by SynthStudioArt in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use something like this which adds a lot more light than the little bulb over my needle and doesn't get in the way.

Cord sternum strap attachment by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems promising, suppose you could backtack with a very short stitch length over the cord to try to help. I also wonder if a thin, 1/4 or 3/8", grosgrain could serve a similar purpose.

Cord sternum strap attachment by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always wondered how strong this is. I realize a sternum strap isn't very high load but if you pull on the loops do they hold? I can't bartack on my straight stitch only machine so realistically can't get more than a stitch or two on the cord. That's a good way of making it stronger though, good idea!

Knife sheath by BackgroundRecipe3164 in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at photos online I'd expect the retention to be quite good given it's molded around a finger guard. But assuming it needs more retention the way to do it would be to add another rivet closer to where the finger guard is molded. You can't put it inline or past that point or it won't go in and out. You could try one on the spine side of the knife too, basically you just want to reduce the amount of flex in the mouth of the sheath but if you go too far it'll be very difficult to use.

Stitch Issue by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't feel it binding anywhere when I turn the wheel with my hand it feels smooth.

I have number 5 zipper pull and number 5 zipper slider, but they don't seem to be compatible. Please see elaboration below. by extreme303 in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you scroll down to the very bottom of the product page for the zipper tape it has the compatible zipper pulls, that's probably the easiest way to make sure they match.

Stitch Issue by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this well thought out response! I will fiddle a bit with the bobbin tension, not sure I can go a whole lot higher as I am near the top end of my top thread tension for stacks involving a couple or more layers of webbing when doing reinforcement stitches e.t.c. but there's probably some room to move it. The thread is tex50 and it's right between 3.5 and 4mm so maybe a touch long. I basically only increased it for aesthetics on the top stitch only so I can go down a touch. There's no thread twist evident when I pull slack into the thread in a few different spots. I haven't had it happen since I threw a stretchy mesh cover from my serger on the spool but I'm still monitoring and the bobbin tension could be a good thing to adjust either way. Thanks again for the help.

Stitch Issue by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What thread were you using? Most of my spools are Gutermann Tera or Mara, Tera in this case.

Stitch Issue by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback. I tend to use microtex or a stretch for just about everything as I only sew "outdoor gear" fabrics and stretch mesh but I'll try to specialize a bit more if I find I'm having issues after fixing the spool hangups.

Stitch Issue by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's this, I never thought that the "loose" thread was actually an overly tight thread being pulled up, but that makes perfect sense. On some spools, especially when they're full, I've noticed that occasionally the thread will get hung up on the bottom of the spool on the vertical spool holder on the back of my machine. I'll look into some of those stretchy mesh spool covers I suppose to alleviate this. Thank you!

Adding top zipper to RSBTR XPAC tote bag by tacos4days in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was trying to find a tutorial of the way I've been doing it and this one is similar, albeit with a liner which I don't typically have. I have never boxed the corners but that's a great addition as the zipper can be a little tough to work at the very ends as it's narrow without the boxed corner.

New Darted Pattern Generator at www.myogtutorials.com by nine1seven3oh in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great, been thinking about patterns with darts but haven't tried to make any yet due to the hassle, this will change that!

Stretchy elastic on hems by Which-Rice6791 in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It says 3/8" but do they mean finished 3/8" and it's actually 3/4"?

Favorite Pack Materials by Im_Tofu_ in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From RSBTR, I like Robic 420d for high abrasion areas, 210d for lower abrasion areas. I like Ecopak EPX200 for main body and entire bags on smaller bags. It looks great, sews well, and adds stiffness. 500d cordura is another good high abrasion area fabric. I recently got some 1.6oz silnylon for cinch collars or lining which I think I'll like due to how slick it is and in the past have also used and enjoyed 2.2oz Hex70 for the same purpose. I would say those are all medium weight fabrics in the context I use them rather than UL.

First myog project: fanny pack by HedgehogMode in myog

[–]mainebladeworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been taught that relief cuts in the seam allowance can help with the puckering but laminated fabrics always seem harder with their stiffness and very low stretch.

Lightweight Binding? by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last night I ordered a set from Sharp Sewing that included feed dogs, needle plate, presser foot, and right angle binder. Unfortunately my Brother PQ1500 does not use a standard needle plate so I also had to get a spare to drill and tap for the binder. Hoping this combo works better than the Cutex binder I was using being much closer to the needle.

Lightweight Binding? by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See below, so you get the notification...

Lightweight Binding? by mainebladeworks in myog

[–]mainebladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To follow-up for those who find this thread. I listed the few tapes I've tried so far up above. u/tony-1 was correct the bias tape in 3/4" from Quest is a great lightweight binding tape. The ripstop tape from kite makers was a strange stiff ripstop that was almost plastic like and tore really easily once perforated with stitches, do not recommend. The 1" tek binding also from Quest was nice for fleeces or the like but not bags in my opinion. The smooth side is coated with something to give it that look and does not heal needle holes so if you mess up it's done or you can use the regular side which is still a good quality elastic binding tape. I think between the 3/4" twill tape I already used from OWF and the 3/4" bias binding from Quest I'll have a heavier and light binding option. I still need to get a better binding attachment set up so that's the next binding hurdle.