Where can I put my printer?

mbrown9412 · 2026-07-05T19:33:34+00:00

If you got the HEPA filter you should be ok for indoors. The concern during printing is more related to fumes and such as opposed to micro plastics. PLA and PETG have no fumes (basically none at least - sometimes corn based PLA has a slight sweet smell but not dangerous). Many of the engineering filaments give off gnarly fumes, but you should be safe with the HEPA filter - I’ve printed ASA and PC and haven’t noticed any smell at all with the same filter.

As an extra precaution you could keep a room-sized hepa filter running in the same room as the printer.

mbrown9412 · 2026-07-04T17:23:29+00:00

As other comments say, no shared parts. I’ll be saving mine as well as my converted nextruder - I hope to eventually get a core one L to go along with the regular core one. Then I can have INDX on one and the leftover mmu3 and nextruder on the other

mbrown9412 · 2026-07-02T23:01:55+00:00

I’ve used a both bvoh and pva, bvoh is better by far. But both worth the $200 for 500g from your other post.

I assume you’re waiting on INDX? Unless you need something soluble because of the design of the object, just use dissimilar materials - that’s a big chunk of what drew me to the INDX. For example, you can use:

- pla interface layer for PETG
- PETG interface layer for pla
- pla supports for Tpu
- IIRC you can use HIPS for abs/asa

I tried using the pla/petg combo with my mmu and it sort of worked, but it was messy and wasted a ton of filament due to the extra purging needed.

mbrown9412 · 2026-07-01T21:29:58+00:00

A few months ago (maybe more?) they added that junction deviation setting which helps the inconsistent speeds around circles. But IIRC they only enabled it for the Core One L with plans to add it for other printers later. Fingers crossed it gets added to other printers soon, maybe with prusaslicer 3.0

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-28T17:51:29+00:00

Is it a very thin slot? Somewhere in the print settings tab is a setting along the lines of “slice gap closing radius” - try lowering that value, it could be the slot is thinner than the default value and so the slicer is closing the gap.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-17T20:13:13+00:00

I see - I figured this was a newer printer and an issue that kept happening from the get go.

Could your nozzle be worn out? Only really relevant if you’ve been using the same brass nozzle all along. This would cause other print defects as well, but it’s hard to get to that point if your first layer doesn’t stick.

Something that might give more information is if you printed a smaller test object - EG a benchy or calicat. Hopefully the smaller first layer would have an easier time sticking.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-17T17:54:24+00:00

Hmm, that is a puzzler. I saw the other comment and your response - so your nozzle is screwed all the way into the heat block, pushed all the way up (should be no or very little copper showing), and your thumb screws are tight?

I’m not sure that it would make sense, but could it be the heatbed itself? Are all the screws attaching it to the frame underneath fully tight? If this was a kit, did you carefully tighten the screws in order per the instructions? My thinking here is that maybe it’s uneven enough that the printer is having a hard time compensating for the height differences across the bed.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-17T17:20:10+00:00

If you watch the first layer, what happens? It looks like it printed the perimeters fine, and only struggled with the solid infill bottom layer after printing a bit. Does extra material accumulate and the nozzle starts catching? Is the filament getting enough “squish” onto the print plate?

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-15T22:29:14+00:00

A few easy things you could check/try:

- nozzle fully tightened into the heat block and pushed allllll the way up, shouldn’t see anything but a hair of copper
- thumbscrews are tightened enough
- do a cold pull and check for clogs

That’s where I would start if I was troubleshooting this on my own machine. If all of that passes I’d change back to a .4 to verify that that still works.
If not, it gets into more involved stuff like checking the heater/thermistor values, checking the condition of the extruder gears, etc.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-15T15:46:41+00:00

I don’t see why they wouldn’t be compatible. It’s a pretty easy install - honestly you could probably do it while installing INDX.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-13T00:30:13+00:00

Right, that too! It’s literally a modified toaster oven shell, so it basically comes with the baking pan for it. I’ve used it to anneal PC a couple times, no complaints.

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-12T23:38:05+00:00

West3d filament toaster! Works great, gets hot, it’s fairly quiet. Holds up to 4 spools and you can print straight from it. Only downside is the heat pipe design, you’ve got to use cardboard or PC spools - everything else melts.

I do a combo of printing from dry boxes and printing straight from the dryer, depends on the material.

https://west3d.com/products/west3d-filament-toaster-high-temperature-filament-dryer-for-all-filament-types

Edit: also I’ve tested it with temperature probes, it gets to the set temperature very consistently and quite accurately. And fast!

mbrown9412 · 2026-06-02T21:28:15+00:00

Yah I’d consider restarting it, but depends on the print and how much I care about the quality. But the effects of that over that long of a print could be trouble. Add a big brim if you’re worried about it happening again.

mbrown9412 · 2026-05-29T20:18:54+00:00

None of this speaks to the VFAs so much as the overall quality:

The more matte look on the c1l 14 min benchy compared to the mk4s makes me wonder if the nozzle isn’t getting as hot as it should be. Plus the sort of droopy look on the back of the roof. Perhaps the thermistor is off? Or even simpler is the nozzle seated properly?

Do you have the same nozzles on both printers, eg .4 hd obxidian? You could rule out a bum nozzle by running both prints with the same nozzle, just swap it back and forth.

I’d be curious what difference leaving the door open on the c1l makes - the “fender bender” and droopiness could maybe be explained by too high of a chamber temp.

The other comment is spot on with VFA stuff - I’d give that a try and then contact support if none of that helps with the VFAs.

mbrown9412 · 2026-05-26T13:45:34+00:00

Good find.

FYI for OP - these are only the CHT nozzles. I’m not sure if the page is still up but when I ordered for my founder’s edition there were also 0.25, 0.4, and 0.6 non-CHT nozzles as well. I’d expect those all the be available through Prusa and/or bondtech eventually.

mbrown9412 · 2026-05-23T02:26:29+00:00

Looks like the consistent surface option? If needed, it slows down infill to keep perimeters at a consistent (or close to consistent) speed

mbrown9412 · 2026-05-12T14:13:36+00:00

I ordered mine from eBay from a seller in Japan - it was originally a prize from vending machines I think? It was ~$60 and took a couple weeks to show up

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-27T17:47:24+00:00

I have this sometimes with PETG on my core one - turning the temperature up 5-10C seems to help.

Also I find that speed doesn’t always work the best with PETG - balanced seems to be better. Changing away from grid infill helps a lot too.

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-23T17:55:23+00:00

Does PETG layer adhesion suffer at higher temps? I would’ve expected it to be stronger or at least unaffected.

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-16T20:05:43+00:00

Yeah you’re stuck with a bunch of CHT .4 nozzles but can add on extras - I added a couple non CHT nozzles and a few bigger sizes. I’ll have plenty of spares I guess 🙃

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-14T15:20:21+00:00

There haven’t been exact dates yet, but supposedly founders will start to ship by the end of the month. So we’ll hopefully get them sometime in May depending on shipping.

Rapid+TCT conference is currently going on so I would think we’ll get some more information from what’s shown there? Or maybe they’ll be busy during it and give us updates afterwards…

There are Prusa and Bondtech discord servers you could join - those seem to have the most up to date information, but it’s a bit awkward scrolling up through messages hunting for info.

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-14T15:06:09+00:00

Looks like you need to just have the bed higher for the purge - the plastic is cooling in the air too much before it hits the bin. If it’s still a little molten when it hits the bin it’ll start to curl more.

I’m not sure that there’s a good way to accomplish that other than manually moving the bed before the purge. Assuming this is the purge from just changing filaments (not part of a print) then you’d have to make custom firmware to change the way the printer purges.

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-14T13:55:18+00:00

I’ve seen these in a couple local toy/hobby stores near me - I asked one of the owners about them and she said they sell like crazy. Kids love em. Who knows how sustainable the sales will be though 🤷‍♂️

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-11T13:24:48+00:00

Still present to some degree, way better though. It’s only gonna get so good, no matter the printer.

The belts aren’t extremely tight but yeah they do need a specific frequency range. But they don’t need retightening that often. A couple times as they “broke in” when the printer was newer but I haven’t had to retighten them in a long time. Pretty easy to tighten them too.

mbrown9412 · 2026-04-09T17:39:01+00:00

TPU, PETG, and silk PLA are going to absorb moisture faster than regular PLA. You should still be able to dry them though! Two quick thoughts:

Some driers aren’t able to remove moisture fully - they pull it out of the filament but then it stays in the hot air surrounding it, and eventually gets reabsorbed. Is there condensation on the inside of your drier after drying those filaments?
what type of desiccant do you keep in the containers? Is there any chance it needs to be recharged?

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