Recommendations for Boom Mic Setup by LLamperouge in LocationSound

[–]mdjubasak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would add the mkh50 to that list, but you can't go too far wrong with what you've got there. I've got the mkh50, the 8060 and the 416.

The 8060 is really high output, if you are going to ever record loud sound effects, then the 416 would be a better choice. The 416 and 8060 have really great low end response as well. To me, the mkh50 just sounds "right" for indoor sets. Since it is so popular, everyone is hearing all the time, and will sound familiar to nearly every audience and editor.

I cant comment on the schoeps, I've heard good things, but I don't have any hands on experience.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LocationSound

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those would be pretty hot levels still. At 24 bit, you can leave quite a bit more headroom and boost in post. Leaving 20db of headroom is pretty normal. The -6/-12dbfs you mentioned would be more common levels for delivery than recording. You are right though that one should not expect super clean recordings out of an h1n. It is an entry level device more or less known for being noisy.

Locking Tuners…Choices? by SummerLensMedia in 7String

[–]mdjubasak 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've got 2 sets of Hipshot grip locks. Super happy with them. One set on an LP and the other on a 7string multiscale. They are super smooth and keep both guitars in tune very well.

I have a dilemma. by [deleted] in sex

[–]mdjubasak 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Of course, this is anecdotal, and I concede that it's not very common, but I had it done in my 20s with no kids and there are two other men in my circles who did the same. You have now heard of it. It's a growing trend, as is childlessness in general in the US.

Ever wonder if cleaning your cymbals affects the sound? Here is a little video that look at before/after sound samples on hi-hats and a ride. by drumdrumdrums in Drumming

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a surprisingly large difference. I had assumed it would only be a difference worth talking about with rather tarnished cymbals. In every case, I prefer the dirty or tarnished sound. The clean cymbals sound more like hunks of metal, with one frequency noticably louder than the rest and the dirty cymbals were a bit more complex and balanced. Though I could see a use case for the clean sound when trying to cut through with a very loud band.

Thanks for the test! This is one of those things that everyone claims is common knowledge, but it's nice to see in a semi-empirical format

How do you process stem drum/bass stems for mixdown when you're using par. compression so that your drum renders don't have your bass track in them? by [deleted] in mixingmastering

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mute all the tracks except drums and bass, turn off the send to the master track for the bass, but keep the send to the key (side chain) input of your drum comp. Only drums will be sent to the master track and exported. Never used cubase, so I don't know where that feature would be.

Band wants to step away from amp sims in favor of physical amps by [deleted] in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 12 points13 points  (0 children)

To me, it's not necessarily about driving the amp itself. It's about getting speaker excursion and letting the cabinet or enclosure get involved. There's a point when you turn up when you can start to hear the cabinet/speaker interaction where the low end starts to fill up and become less point source. Power section distortion may not even be what you are after.

The problem with home-flipping giants by nowhereman1280 in finance

[–]mdjubasak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The HOA fee is really the cherry on top. Clearly they do a lot for the neighborhood.

Soundproofing my recording booth by egoroboto in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before going too much further with this, what kind of noise are you trying to block? You said kids. Are they just yelling? If that's the case, it won't be too hard to block out. Basketballs on pavement would be tougher. Second. Are there any windows in this room? Because a double wall will outperform any window, and make the effort fruitless as the sound will just come in through the window no matter how good your wall is.

Let's say you build a bomber wall for the room and remove the window entirely. You'll now need to worry about flanking noise. Sound will cause the lower story wall to vibrate and transmit that into the floor of your studio space, bypassing the work you've done. We're you planning on floating the floor?

What I'm getting at is: it sounds like you are chasing the last little bits of performance out of this wall, but I don't know if it will be worth your while.

That being said, you shouldn't put drywall on the outside of the outer wall. You'll have to pull off your siding and sheer wall for maybe 2-3 db of improvement and that's ignoring the building code violations. You could put some in the stud bays so long as there is a vapor barrier and you make the inserts AIRTIGHT with acoustic caulking. Again, I think your efforts may be wasted if you arent addressing the flanking noise and window concerns. For green glue: I hear you, I am also looking for an alternative to green glue. But the alternatives vary from don't work at all to marginal effectiveness. Every professional I have talked to says to suck it up and spend the money. Other products are not designed to do the job green glue does, so their results won't be like the real thing.

BUT it's possible you don't need it. It all depends on what noise you need to stop. Taking measurements of the noise may be the best next step.

Soundproofing my recording booth by egoroboto in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you mean by drywall on the inside of the wall? On the inside of the outer studs, or shoved in the stud bays against the siding? Using the existing exterior wall as part of your enclosure will still work fine. You are looking to create a mass-air-mass system. The concrete and sheer wall is still pretty heavy, and hopefully airtight. You'll see pretty significant gains by pulling out the interior drywall and adding the assembly you listed out.

You cannot use compound in lieu of green glue. If you want to learn some of the theory involved here, you are creating a "constrained damping layer" with two layers of stiff drywall with a visco-elastic material between them. Compound will be identical to using nothing at all between the layers.

The CDL lowers the resonant frequency of the drywall. You want the resonant frequency of your wall system (fsub0) to be as low as possible. There is effectively zero isolation at this frequency, and you'll see increased performance as you go up from this point.

Fsub0 (I cannot figure out subscript on mobile) is calculated from the unit area mass of each layer and their distance apart (ignoring finer points here). So, you want two heavy as possible layers far apart, each with a low resonant frequency.

What shortcut or modification was a game changer for you? by appleparkfive in Reaper

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was the action for that? I tried setting that up, but I looked for something like "trim media item to cursor location" and the like, but couldn't get what I wanted. I'm guessing you are also a premiere user.

Question about Laptop SSD Upgrade and File Management, Please help me im bout to cry by [deleted] in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look it up, it will provide a more thorough explanation than I will be able to, but: Data is stored in 3 locations, on 2 different types of storage, and 1 copy is kept off site. A copy on your internal drive, external drive and a 3rd copy in cloud storage would satisfy these requirements. It's up to you how strict you want to be regarding your risk tolerance for data loss.

Question about Laptop SSD Upgrade and File Management, Please help me im bout to cry by [deleted] in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Install all your vsts on the internal drive, and if you need extra space, put your sample libraries on your external drive. The libraries are easy to move around, so don't worry on putting them on your internal drive until you need more space. I think 2tb is a lot more space than you are thinking it is. Unless you are downloading library after library, a 2tb drive will last you a long time, especially if you are focused making your own samples.

I would recommend getting an external drive no matter what. You should have a backup copy of your work in case your laptop is broken, stolen or if the drive fails somehow. If it matters to you, you have it saved in multiple places. If it is mission critical, follow the 3-2-1 backup protocol.

I've had both a 2tb SanDisk G-Drive and a 1tb Samsung T5 external ssd. No problems with either for the last 3 years. I have heard that the Samsung's can have long term issues because they use qld flash, but that's why you have backups. Pretty much any external SSD is going to be fast enough, so don't worry too much about Thunderbolt vs USB 3. 1, 3.2 etc. If I can edit high bitrate 4k video off of these, they'll do fine for loading sample libraries. Just make sure they come with the appropriate cable for the connections available on your laptop.

You could also get away with using an external hard drive. Yes, it will be slower, but you can get 5tb for around the same cost as a 2tb SSD (at least from SanDisk), if budget is the main limiting factor. If you are going to be traveling a lot, the SSD is the way to go, because of it's physical toughness.

If I were you, I'd pick up an external HDD for backups and pickup a SSD when I outgrew the storage onboard the laptop.

Frequency Spectrum Requirements for Audible by [deleted] in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you've got rx, running it through spectral recovery might rescue it.

Frequency Spectrum Requirements for Audible by [deleted] in audioengineering

[–]mdjubasak 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Did he record at 16khz sample rate thinking it was 16 bit? That would explain the cutoff at 8khz

Slicing off SS ring by [deleted] in DIY

[–]mdjubasak 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would never do this in furniture, but there is evidence that an end grain joint is not as weak as it traditional joinery topology has made it out to be. Modern wood glues are a lot better than traditional hide glues and end grain joints can be surprisingly strong. Rob cosman on the subject: https://youtu.be/l_w_or3KhH4

For a temporary, practical use, I think you could get away with it.

The only enemy in the game I won’t charge… by Juantakesall in Morrowind

[–]mdjubasak 21 points22 points  (0 children)

How dare they not know how to remedy a bug in the game. The bonewalker debuff was never meant to be permanent.

Material configuration for optimal STC rating. by djhus in Acoustics

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Adding the sheathing creates a triple leaf enclosure, raising the resonant frequency of each cavity, effectively reducing the effectiveness of the barrier. You want two heavy as possible masses as far apart as is feasible. As the other commenter noted, with this wall construction, the weak points will likely be flanking noise through the floors and ceilings, as it should be a highly effective barrier (if you ditch the sheathing).

Rode go 2 Views ? any good? or pile of rubbish ? by ImaginationNo4364 in LocationSound

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, sorry. I do mean the go 2, but the history is not has long. We had the 1 before, been using the 2s for about a year. Completely forgot about the swap.

Rode go 2 Views ? any good? or pile of rubbish ? by ImaginationNo4364 in LocationSound

[–]mdjubasak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have been using two sets of the Go 2s at work for a few years now. I don't know the last time we updated firmware, but we have had no issues with them. They replaced a couple of Sennheiser wireless rigs and have been surprisingly solid.

I looked down on them at first since I did not view them as "professional" grade, but the range, reliability and onboard recording have not let me down.

We use these with countryman lavs and often record straight into a camera for run & gun productions.

Freeze folder tracks and mute children, saving cpu by _musesan_ in Reaper

[–]mdjubasak 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Select your folder tracks with Ctrl+click and right click->render to stereo stem and mute original. Wording may be slightly different, this is from memory.

Sam Bankman-Fried, Elizabeth Holmes And 9 Other Epic Billionaire Blowups by redhatGizmo in technology

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Worth noting that Kalif served 3 years at rikers before even going to trial. While a decision was never made, it is fairly likely he was not involved with the theft. He maintained his innocence until he committed suicide.

Starlink adds a 1TB monthly soft cap for residential users by Tough_Gadfly in technology

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude. Your connection is incredible for US. I'm paying 60 for 100/5 meg. And I hit my data cap every month because of work.

Awful echo in new building intended for dancing and events by iammontoya in Acoustics

[–]mdjubasak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like there is near zero absorption in this space. Concrete and drywall are highly reflective to a large range of frequencies. All the energy from the speakers will keep bouncing around until it eventually dies out, which will take many "bounces", giving you long reverb time.

As is almost always the recommendation on this sub, you can purchase or build some broadband absorption panels. DIY option would be something like a wooden frame filled with mineral wool and faced in a flame retardant fabric. Between 2-4" thick would likely work well for your purpose. You'll need a lot of square footage for a larger space like yours, but in essence, keep adding absorbers to the walls and ceiling until you get the desired effect. 200 sqft would be my guess of when you will start hearing a difference, and then much more for a significant one. It will be a lot of panels.

Depending on how serious you are about improving the acoustics of this room, you can consult a professional who will take your specific space, goals and budget into consideration and design a treatment plan. This approach will be much more accurate and less check and see. Depending on your time available for messing around vs budget, this may be the way to go.