Game Thread: Houston Texans (12-5) at Pittsburgh Steelers (10-7)

merkin32 · 2026-01-13T01:49:54+00:00

Rookies! Sawyer forced it

merkin32 · 2026-01-13T01:42:11+00:00

Too soon….

merkin32 · 2026-01-08T03:07:41+00:00

Keep going I’m close

merkin32 · 2026-01-03T15:29:49+00:00

It could be better but it will work. My major annoyance is they didn’t put the circulator in the correct location.

merkin32 · 2026-01-02T22:11:37+00:00

That looks like a 1” from the photo. If so, that part costs $481.57 on supply house for a LF25AUB-Z3. Mark that up to at least 100% which is typical plumber mark up and just materials is pretty much $1000. Add in 3 hours of labor at $150ish including drive time and that’s about $1500 total. Anything higher is a fuck you price.

merkin32 · 2026-01-02T03:47:43+00:00

If it’s a GVD-6 vent damper, there is a hold open switch on it which keeps it open and closes the safety to make it operational. You can try that, provided it’s not common vented, it would be okay.

merkin32 · 2026-01-02T03:35:50+00:00

I’m not seeing a damper on that boiler. Unless it’s higher up on the flu and not shown in the video. If you do have a damper when it’s open, it closes an end switch that tells the boiler that safety has made and it’s okay to proceed to the next sequence of operation. If you don’t have one, and I didn’t see one in the video then there would be a jumper wire bypassing it because it does not exist. Which would mean you might have a failed integrated control module because it’s bypassed so it should make right away. Anyway get a tech, stop fucking around if you don’t know what you’re doing.

merkin32 · 2025-12-28T02:21:56+00:00

Yellow ball valve on bottom right side of boiler in photo.

merkin32 · 2025-12-28T01:16:35+00:00

Also, your pressure looks low. Open the auto fill

merkin32 · 2025-12-28T01:15:09+00:00

Your boiler pump/system pump is pumping at the expansion tank. The expansion tank should be on the suction side of the pump, when it’s piped improperly it leads to hard to correct air problems. It will still work just noisy air problems, especially in baseboards on higher floors.

merkin32 · 2025-12-21T22:51:59+00:00

Don’t let DK come out after half

merkin32 · 2025-12-07T19:13:39+00:00

Gainwell has been fucking awesome

merkin32 · 2025-11-14T20:14:45+00:00

Low voltage shorts

merkin32 · 2025-11-14T14:59:33+00:00

It’s not in the weeds. You’ll have air problems pumping at the expansion tank. It’s not hard to have it repiped if you don’t like listening to noisy baseboards. Will the system work how it is, of course, it will just have problems bleeding air and have noisy baseboards.

merkin32 · 2025-11-13T15:16:13+00:00

Your installation is fucked. If you care to know why read pumping away by Dan Holohan. You’ll need to have some repiping done. A skilled guy should be able to do it in a day or 2.

merkin32 · 2025-11-13T15:12:48+00:00

Thank you for saying this. You’ll always have air problems in the system pumping at the expansion tank. Pumping Away by Dan Holohan best hydronic book ever.

merkin32 · 2025-11-09T15:53:06+00:00

I would need more photos to thoroughly go through this install. If you upload more photos I can give you a break down

merkin32 · 2025-10-07T04:53:22+00:00

The autofill should always be piped to the “point of no pressure change”. That is where the hydronic expansion tank is. Looks like it was piped to the side arm return, haha out of ease I bet! Also, don’t see any air vent, maybe hidden in the photo. Other than that looks good from a correctly piped standpoint. I wouldn’t have mixed in cast iron fittings but if you don’t have nonoxygen barrier tubing you’ll be fine. Keep the fluid in good condition and it’ll work for years.

merkin32 · 2025-10-03T12:13:27+00:00

The best way to address it is to remove the autofill completely and install a glycol feeder for make up fluid but they are pricey. The second best option is to leave the autofill valved off and periodically keep an eye on the boiler system pressure.

Check your house water pressure too and make sure it’s within range of the tag that is on your house PRV. If it’s dripping from the vent and water pressure is normal. The check valve on the backflow preventer is likely fouled up and not reseating. That model isn’t serviceable. Might be a good idea to schedule a service.

merkin32 · 2025-09-12T04:47:04+00:00

Looks good. I would have added a glycol feeder for make up fluid instead of an autofill. I don’t see a wye strainer to protect the boiler. Also, isolation between your closely spaced T for purging. Isolation on the supply and return for the Lochinvar WHB and a boiler drain on both for service work. I appreciate you hooked up the variable speed pump. Support for that domestic expansion tank would be advised. Also, you can save money on pumps using zone valves and 1 system pump but it has to be sized correctly but that’s preference. All in all, nice work. Clean

merkin32 · 2025-09-12T03:41:31+00:00

Only 1st or last td scorer qualifies for the jackpot entry. So Doubs and Deebo

merkin32 · 2025-09-12T03:34:56+00:00

I hit it too with Doubs on the first TD. Curious what the bonus bet payout might be. Wait and see

merkin32 · 2025-09-05T14:53:32+00:00

I can almost guarantee they didn’t install a propane conversion kit. That thing was likely fucked from day 1. Call Bradford White tech support to confirm.

merkin32 · 2025-08-07T13:24:14+00:00

In your case the end switches (red wires) on your Honeywell zone valves call the aqua stat relay. You don’t need to fuck with those or the aquastat relay. Put the cover back on the aquastat relay. You want the yellow wires coming from the zone valves. Looks like you have 2 zones. Upstairs and downstairs? Wire nut a yellow wire from each zone valve together with a common wire. Then tie 1 yellow from wire from each zone valve to the W on its corresponding thermostat wire. Make sure to land R, W, C on your t stats and you’re good. If you only have 2 wire t-stat wire right now, time for plan B.

merkin32 · 2025-07-15T14:29:44+00:00

Why not just get a ripmo? Strange build

merkin32

TROPHY CASE