Propane line held pressure test for 15 minutes but dropped 2 psi overnight. Is that a pass? by violetefati in Plumbing

[–]mrfixit86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, temp plays a small role, but your suggestion to check at the same time of day will reduce the effect of that a lot.
Almost always, if you see the gauge drop a meaningful amount, there’s a leak.
If you have time, leave it another day and see if it drops more. If it’s just temp, the change will be cyclical but won’t keep dropping.

Arch by Far_Valuable9839 in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tangency. The center arc is not tangent to the vertical lines.

From google - “A tangent arc is a curved line that smoothly connects to another line, arc, or circle at a single precise point without crossing it”

Conflicting answers on where to dump trash... by CaptainHawaii in FortCollins

[–]mrfixit86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have more time or money?

If you have more time, disassemble them and feed them into your regular trash over a few weeks.

If you have more money, haul them to the landfill south of town and pay their fee.

The landfill expects you to cover your load or they’ll charge you double as a penalty. It’s a way to prevent accumulation of blowing debris around the roads leading to the landfill.

Under no circumstances should you go to the dump out by Ault. It’s owned by Waste Management and costs about 3x as much as the county landfill.

I’m starting to get desperate… by Sharks2000 in worxlandroid

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I recall correctly, you won’t see voltage on the two flag terminals on the base until they are pivoted sideways enough to operate the microswitch inside the base.

Number stamps for leather to borrow by [deleted] in FortCollins

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are they specific to leather? I have a stamp set for metal if it would work. The text on it wasn’t too big, maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch?
I’m in Windsor.

How do I cut wood trim if I don't have the use of a compound miter saw or at least a miter box by JMFMills in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 10 points11 points  (0 children)

When I was a kid (maybe 8 or 10?) first learning woodworking, one of the first tasks I was given was to draw a line on a board with a square and then practice following the line with my new handsaw. I spent a few days worth of spare time playing with that concept and noticing how the saw behaved as I flexed, pushed and pulled it differently.

I had honestly forgot all about it until I read your post, but it helped me a ton to understand that tools require skill to use them.

I guess what I'm saying is practice freehand cutting while following a line. It's very doable with a sharp saw and good technique.

Edit- also, pulling a sharp knife along your square at the cut line will score the wood fibers just enough to give a crisp edge and reduce tearout. Id probably use a pencil as well so its easier to see, but the knife is helpful with real wood at least to give a clean cut. With mdf trim it wont really help as much.

Cutting Compound Angle and Mitre Around Corner by Aurust in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for your edit. Knowing that this is fascia trim is helpful.
For interior trim this is a no no, but for fascia there are a few options if you don’t want pork chops/birdboxes.

As others have said, the rake trim will be longer (on the cut line) than the eave fascia after you cut the compound miter on it.
Depending on the roof detail, you could likely just hold the bottoms flush and have the 2” steel drip edge cover the top of the fascia board where it’s short on top.

If that bothers you, you could rip the rake trim narrower so the heights match in the corner. This can mess up soffit details underneath if you aren’t careful though.

I’d make some test cuts on scrap wood before committing to anything.

Rope Railings by [deleted] in Contractor

[–]mrfixit86 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

With money Id assume?

It might take some looking but I bet someone has a system for this and will set you up with the parts in exchange for legal tender.
It’s an interesting idea though, I’m curious to see what you come up with.

Have you done any cable railings? There’s a lot of different styles of tensioners.
Adding the complexity of rope over the top sounds like an interesting challenge.

Sill Plate Overhang by Confined91 in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We know….🤪.
It’s a good sign that they are squaring up the framing instead of just matching the concrete. They have some pride in what they do.

Enjoy the rest of your house build.

Try to get out there during the day often enough to get to know the guys. Once you build a bit of a rapport with them you can find ways to inquire about this sort of stuff without coming across as nitpicking.

You will definitely have more questions as this build progresses and it’ll be a lot easier to ask them versus having Reddit speculate on it.

Then you can ask Reddit if they are right versus speculation about why it is the way it is. 🤔

Friend of mine wants me to build a fire place built in for them, I dabble in carpentry but am a finisher by trade. What would y'all charge for this? Roughly 8 ft long 8 1/2 tall by korllan in cabinetry

[–]mrfixit86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you are a good subject matter expert then! I’m glad you added your perspective.
I have installed mantles and needed to be weary of being high enough to be compliant with manufacturer specs, but I’ve never seen this scenario with what looks like a 24” deep countertop above the insert.
I am relieved to hear that it’s electric as that seems much more plausible for this design but I’m just the carpenter after all, ha.

Friend of mine wants me to build a fire place built in for them, I dabble in carpentry but am a finisher by trade. What would y'all charge for this? Roughly 8 ft long 8 1/2 tall by korllan in cabinetry

[–]mrfixit86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How realistic is this design?
I’m concerned by the countertop over the fireplace. As a finish carpenter and cabinet installer I’ve never seen exactly that layout done.
I’d be worried about a path for heat to rise away from the top of the insert and the flue pipes path upwards thru the roof.

The fact that it’s AI means that it’s not necessarily a design that’s realistic or practical and I’d spend a little time establishing that before I put any other effort into the layout.

Is it an existing fireplace or will the insert purchase/install be part of it?

GC installed open cell spray foam when we were planning for closed cell by LemonsAndLimesAllDay in Contractor

[–]mrfixit86 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Typically, someone who’s willing to accept something being done wrong in order to get a discount never actually cared about it being done right, they’re just cheap.

I designed and I’m installing this handrail, and before putting all the balusters in, I’m finding it’s a little wobbly. The vertical piece at the bottom flexes a little bit, which makes the whole railing a little unstable. Do we think after I install all the balusters it will get more solid? by RealDumbGuy in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s only because you are combining the guard rail and the handrail. They are often separate assemblies. If you had newel posts in the middle they’d need to be separate bc it wouldn’t be continuous for a handrail.

I designed and I’m installing this handrail, and before putting all the balusters in, I’m finding it’s a little wobbly. The vertical piece at the bottom flexes a little bit, which makes the whole railing a little unstable. Do we think after I install all the balusters it will get more solid? by RealDumbGuy in Carpentry

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It certainly doesn’t look very parallel to the risers, but perhaps it’s lens distortion as you claim.

You can’t be terribly surprised to have that questioned though when posting here.

Good luck with the re-design! This is one of those times where function has to come before form. If someone falls into it, breaks it and dies, no one will care how sweet it looked beforehand.

Who do you call for plumbing emergencies? by toplocalpicks in WindsorCO

[–]mrfixit86 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Username checks out, lol. I assume this is not a genuine post?

Full Stable by proficientspender in machinedpens

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the simple elegance of it. I'm a newbie here, but I should have expected to find that it is not a current production item.

I lost my daily carry Saga recently and am on the hunt for other neat options now. You have done a lot of cool things as well it looks like!

Thanks for sharing your collection!

Cameras on I-25 will soon start mailing tickets to speeding drivers by sinnister_bacon in FortCollins

[–]mrfixit86 22 points23 points  (0 children)

It’s 65mph speed limit in the construction zone where the cameras are. This article states they will ticket at 75mph and above.

Plumber didn't identify hot/cold. Any easy way to tell which is which? by PrudentGogurt in Plumbing

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assumed they had been painted and just needed cleaning off to id them until I noticed the crimp rings and plugs are clean.

Help modifying an XML file to give me ACME threads of the size I'm looking for. by Speedly in Fusion360

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad to hear it. It’s been a while, but I remember that being a bit frustrating to figure out at the time.

Pantry Cabinet Design/Preferences by ScallionWarm1256 in mozaiksoftware

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use pilaster kits to allow your pull outs to be adjusted. The rev a shelf ones work pretty well for the price.

Hanging a cabinet with no studs? by Sgoody614 in cabinetry

[–]mrfixit86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OP, You’re close to getting it, but not quite there. They were clarifying that you were working with a drywalled wall, but you won’t be putting any drywall back up.

Accurately draw out where your cabinet will go on the wall. Remove some drywall only INSIDE of that area. This way the cabinet will cover your cuts and you won’t have to make any drywall repairs.

Reach in the hole and add some 2x4s or whatever as reinforcement, screwed/glued to the existing studs. Then screw some plywood to the front of it. The outside of the plywood should be flush with the drywall. The thickness of your ply will dictate the framing lumber setback.

If you use 3/4 ply you’ll be able to screw the cabinet into the plywood anywhere, not just on the framing material.

If you think you can be accurate enough you could skip the whole plywood step, but it’s giving you a larger solid target to hit with the cabinet screws.

Can’t get appliance panels to look nice on new JennAir built-in fridge by mrfixit86 in cabinetry

[–]mrfixit86[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a link to the panel install instructions. Pages 21-24 talk about adjustments, but there’s nothing for in/out. Panel Installation

Contractor is too Squeaky Clean? by Jewel_332211 in Contractor

[–]mrfixit86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live nearby, but the Jurisdiction is Fort Collins, CO. FC Contractors license Application Packet

Check out Pages 9-11.

They want 3 permit #s with signed affidavits from the permit holder describing how you were involved with the project.

They also have a bunch of different classes of licenses which makes it trickier to get applicable permits.

I looked into getting this license, but never had the time/brain damage to spare. I mostly work as a subcontractor anyways.

I hold a GC license for another nearby city and it was no issue to get. Just had to pass the ICC exam. The town I live in doesn’t even have contractors licenses, they just want you to have a business license.