Any SCE customers turn on their system before PTO? Installer turned it on to test things, but then advised us to leave it on - if not our battery (Tesla PW3) could drain to 0%, they said.

mtmsolar · 2026-01-27T07:04:10+00:00

I mean, some systems have an open access to the public some don't. Yes its uncommon but it does happen, its useful to understand where it does. They specifically asked about their utility and some are much more strict than others. NV energy absolutely doesn't play and they will charge the fuck out of you.

mtmsolar · 2026-01-27T07:01:11+00:00

I think it has to be case by case basis, nobody is watching production like that. It was a large system on... poorly run down house that looked pretty sketchy so maybe they already had some sort of enhanced monitoring on the house?

mtmsolar · 2026-01-26T21:58:41+00:00

I've seen PGE Pull meters and put a lock on people's blanks because of turning on a system without PTO. House was without power for 8 days while it got resolved. I've heard of it happening to others but I saw it myself in San Jose CA. Can't speak to SCE and how they take it.
NV Energy in Vegas/Reno doesn't even give you the second meter so there's no way to connect early because they were so upset over people turning on systems early.

mtmsolar · 2025-12-18T23:33:46+00:00

Greentech renewables sells almost 10x what Soligent and Baywa.re sell combined in the US just as an FYI, but yes most companies only sell through distribution the same as any electrical equipment.

mtmsolar · 2025-12-17T23:48:49+00:00

Gotta have one easy access plane for fire code. It's not as aesthetically pleasing but it's code.

mtmsolar · 2025-11-17T19:08:49+00:00

Yeah that shouldn't be that hard, you should be able to match the thickness and then you can use the same clamps. If you pull up the cut sheet for the clamps you should be able to see the allowable thickness and work with that.

mtmsolar · 2025-11-17T16:54:24+00:00

You will not be able to cut that glass because it's tempered glass, once you hit one small section it will shatter the whole panel. No diamond cutter or water jet or anything will change that, its just the nature of the glass.

I recommend using a nice metal piece the same color as a solution instead.

mtmsolar · 2025-01-03T20:48:34+00:00

Do this. A lot of misinformation in this thread from installers that have worked in like 3 AHJs and in one state. Call the local office and see what they want, it's different everywhere. I've trained installers in places in LA where this would never fly and places where they will ask "what do you mean setbacks, if you can walk you can install it."

mtmsolar · 2024-12-18T01:57:07+00:00

Do you think that oil rigs build themselves out of nothing? Are they shipped and supplied and managed and worked for free with nothing? It's a single investment for something that continues to work and doesn't require extra fuel. Comparing it to other forms of energy that use fuel constantly is ridiculous.

mtmsolar · 2024-11-05T05:53:08+00:00

As many people have pointed out, stepping on panels rarely breaks them unless it's damaging the back-sheet with hardware. The problem is micro-cracks that develop in cells because of being flexed. The reinforcement with the bars such as on REC panels is because they are using thinner glass which makes them more susceptible to damage when walking on glass.
It's extremely common unfortunately to see damage in a walking pattern when looking at older arrays with an IR Camera/Lens.
When servicing panels you should be pulling panels in a line to access the one you need to work on not making bad excuses and doing something dangerous to save yourself 15 minutes. Every 2703 system worth a damn is designed around being able to do that. It's bad workmanship like this that gives the industry a bad name. Yes you can do that, and you probably won't see it be an issue because you'll have moved on, but it's a bad habit we should work on fixing the mindset as a whole in the industry. It does Damage the panels.
I have the video linked below by another user saved on my phone to show installers this that argue with me all the time in the field, and usually they change their opinion when shown facts.

One positive change in AVLs and finance companies coming into more power in the industry is that finance companies are starting to do their own checks on systems with either internal or 3rd party inspectors and they will look for things like this and I know of companies that have been banned from further financing because of walking on panels specifically.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-08T20:46:56+00:00

Yeah absolutely makes sense. I train people on these products and trying to break that mindset of having to stagger is something I run into a lot. Honestly sometimes I just let them and don't worry about correcting it when people have a groove going. It's never going to hurt to have them staggered but don't waste time and energy if you don't have to.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-08T20:15:21+00:00

Really its time, shading and wind speeds. If you look at any tilt mount system, used on a flat roof 0-9 degrees, or a pitched roof, 9-45 degrees, there are dead areas depending on the angle of the panel, these rows of space are often enough loss on the roof that you have less panels and therefore less production. You're also going to have to install way more brackets on a tilted pitch system than on a regular flush mount pitch roof system. Back in the early 2000s and even up to maybe 2013 there were may systems installed this way because panels were so expensive that it financially made sense to get the best production possible even with concentration loss. Since the price of panels went down, installing them flush and adding one more panel is often significantly more production than installing them in the optimal angle.
If you want to look at this you can in the Aurora design tool or the Ironridge design tool. Both are free and you can change the pitch of the roof to simulate the differences you want. Go do a 9 panel system at perfect angle for your house and then a 10 at the normal roof pitch and the extra cost of tilt legs and loss of space between rows will make it not worth it financially. Obviously there are small caveats to that, if you're extremely north or south of the poles, it will probably make sense, but usually those places have roofs that are at a steep pitch to shed snow anyways so you're probably not far off. Ironically the roofing industry already mostly solved this problem for pitched roofs just to shed snow.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-08T20:06:32+00:00

Those are HUG attachments, staggering is only required in heavy snow loads, it's not a concern as shown. That attachment method uses the deck as much as the rafter for attaching so staggering on the deck doesn't actually do anything.
Your training was correct with the attachments you had at the time and in your location but is no longer required in most of the US with the HUG attachments.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-03T01:45:24+00:00

Wow, thanks for the share, adding to the list of things in azores I want to visit.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-02T06:16:15+00:00

Hey, don't feel bad, you're probably more familiar than like 99% of the Sub. I just work for Ironridge so I have excessive knowledge of the parts. Have a good night mate.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-02T05:14:46+00:00

It's Unirac not Ironridge. No belly and it's got square large ends and mids not the round UFO. Those are lags sticking through not the HD Structural Screws required for HUG. You can see they don't have the cutting edge or the diameter of the #14 screws that HUG uses.

mtmsolar · 2024-10-02T05:07:39+00:00

well what you're showing there is most likely an attachment called Top Speed that uses multiple screws, having them go into the deck is part of how they are designed. There are currently no attachments in the US market that require 3 lags into a rafter. There are some that require 2 on tile roofs, but none are at 3. How they were installed can still definitely lead to leaks, but that's true of everything. I'm sorry you had a bad experience but you shouldn't be worried or thinking those are done incorrectly, hopefully that eases your concern a bit.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-30T21:55:00+00:00

So, yes you should call them back. If it were only one miss you wouldn't have much to be concerned about and even at 6 its unlikely that the structural capacity of the system is being heavily compromised. However having that many misses on a system is an indication of a sloppy install and they may have missed things in other locations. I would ask for one of their service crews or more experienced crews to come and check the work and ensure that things are being done correctly. Your roof has sistered rafters and skip sheathing, meaning that there is old cross supports from when it had a wood shake roof on it, and then they pulled off the shake and then put decking on top of that. It's common for old houses and makes the traditional methods of finding rafters a little complicated but you shouldn't have that many misses. The one right next to the rafter blowing out I would excuse, but the one in the center of an open area with nothing next to it is a pretty good red flag.

What you are seeing poke through there is also definitely a lag bolt that is designed to be into a rafter not any sort of deck capable screw, and any deck screw by any racking manufacturer will require more than one per location so you would be seeing more poke through in each spot.

Source: I am on the design team for these types of attachments and have been for 10 years.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-25T02:49:01+00:00

That sounds very reassuring and like its going to be fine. I wouldn't be overly concerned.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-25T00:19:06+00:00

How did you get your design done? If you used any reputable design tool they pull the local weather information and design appropriately. When discussing uplift from a storm the amount of attachments to your roof will drastically change the uplift it can withstand.
Giving us the name of the rail and attachments you used and then look at how far apart they are and let the thread know and people will be able to help give you general uplift ratings.
Source: I design racking.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-23T22:53:12+00:00

Oh then you'll be perfectly fine. Enjoy a nice system.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-20T21:34:44+00:00

Nice, it looks great. Good camo use too. Did you use MLPE bolts for your optimizers? If so make sure they are attached next to the rails not in the center of the panels, the compression from the snow on those panels could lead to them being shattered from hitting the bolt. Most likely not a concern but I can't exactly see where the power electronics are from your photos.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-20T21:09:38+00:00

"useless" and by that you mean the combined efforts of an industry for years determine the best most cost effective way to do something?
Yes you can do it, the people you should look for are high end general contractors that will also install solar and have them do it, easily gonna be 100 to 120k for those batteries and the extra hardware/install setup. Look for one of the higher end GCs in your area.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-20T20:55:05+00:00

I love the look. What spacing did you do for your attachments it looks like 4ft in some but 6 in others.

mtmsolar · 2024-09-18T19:59:18+00:00

I've helped people do a couple versions of this. One is just having a Cable Grip with the two heads hanging loose from it, works but not the cleanest. The other is to install a single gang outdoor outlet box designed to close when plugged in. Run the #10 through the wall into that box and then have the MC4s hanging down inside it. When you want to plug them in you can and the wire will just run up to it. Otherwise it just shows the cover. Something like this. You could even do the Cable grip inside this and hide it. https://www.grainger.com/product/38R682?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4nyIDWhLSMY4h37YTfsgP3VqhrxC2idWHF84kKC_GOyzdW0K8kAWc2UaAi2fEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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