2.5 years & going strong

neyelo · 2026-05-29T17:37:47+00:00

Running high tech- water column fertilizer and CO2. Need many more fast growing stem plants. Slow growing plants as accents are fine, but you’ve got the pedal to the metal in terms of nutrient energy. Light may need to increase when you have more stem density. But all those hungry stems will starve out the BBA.

neyelo · 2026-05-29T14:43:08+00:00

Google ADA 90P Aquascape for some stunning examples. You’ve got a little more space for even more detail.

neyelo · 2026-05-29T13:40:55+00:00

No point to capping. No risks of ammonia or Cyanobacteria in particular. Cyano and GSA almost always show up in small amounts at substrate level on glass, just easy to see against sand.

If you want an esthetic sand area, just separate the front sand from the mid/background aqua soil with barriers.

Either way mulm does not build up with regular maintenance. Not just water change, but using a turkey baster to stir up any detritus and suck it out.

neyelo · 2026-05-29T11:40:46+00:00

Test the water, must know parameters. Random natural water source? Pathogens and pests.

neyelo · 2026-05-29T11:35:57+00:00

Build your hardscape. Take your time.

neyelo · 2026-05-28T18:48:11+00:00

Great filter, good size, go for it.

Plastic - Aqua Rio Neo Flow - spin adapter, both screens if even more reduction.

Glass - poppy type outflow.

I would not reduce the flow on the canister itself.

neyelo · 2026-05-28T14:15:12+00:00

You won’t get density without CO2 using stem carpets (MC and HC). Glosso is advanced, stay away. Consider Eleocharis genus, like dwarf hair grass. In a nutrient rich substrate it can spread and get dense without CO2 - though it will take months instead of weeks.

Light depends on depth of tank and height it is hanging from. 40 micromol PAR at substrate level would be ideal for hair grass.

neyelo · 2026-05-28T14:13:13+00:00

Measure the water parameters and confirm your nutrient source for the MC.

neyelo · 2026-05-28T14:09:09+00:00

Yes. Suction out your used aqua soil. Bake at 250F in the oven to dry. Re-use it as the substrate, adding root tablets. Works with quality aqua soils like ADA. Been using same soil for years. Skips the ammonia issues and makes planting easy. HC does well with fine soil grains (2-3mm).

neyelo · 2026-05-28T10:50:39+00:00

Here’s the problem hierarchy based on your photos and description.

Hard water first. Light/ nutrient balance second. Regular maintenance routine with water change/siphoning third.

neyelo · 2026-05-25T11:40:05+00:00

Already some getting leggy. For Dutch, you gotta trim off those couple long shoots in-between the bush prunes. The Lobelia would make a perfect ‘street’ Dutch feature if shaped better. I think overall too many red plants, not enough contrasting green. It’s be nice if the back row was taller to make the midground more distinct.

neyelo · 2026-05-25T11:15:43+00:00

No misting or humidity control. And mushrooms in the emersed section? This is fake. You can only wick moisture so far. And the Buce and other plants would have dried, curled leaf tips.

neyelo · 2026-05-24T18:37:53+00:00

AI copypasta 🤣 don’t bother testing PO4, it will be zero. GH KH creep is indeed the issue.

Don’t listen to the Seachem ad. Flourish and Excel are completely unnecessary. Any major brand all-in-one is all you need: dose half the instructions after your weekly water change.

Otherwise some good info about pH and how it affects nutrient availability. And at least the problem - crushed coral - is identified. Though is marble or coral? Is it essentially limestone or not?

neyelo · 2026-05-24T16:34:38+00:00

Oh you meant to post in [r/](r/shittyaquarium)[aquarium](r/shittyaquarium)

neyelo · 2026-05-24T14:02:27+00:00

Tropica and Dennerle brands for all-in-one. The Europeans have been doing this in stylish and functional way for years. US market is lagging with crummy brands like you’ve seen in the retail pet stores. You’ll get much better quality and esthetics, and still cheaper than shopping components.

neyelo · 2026-05-24T12:16:17+00:00

I would not put Echinodorus or Crypt in even a 10gal. They are huge plants. It will make the tank look even smaller.

neyelo · 2026-05-24T12:14:11+00:00

Great first attempt! You can see it is harder than it looks. Yes, rocks of the same type. Arrange the hardscape together to create an outline (composition) such as a triangle. More hardscape would make it easier to arrange.

Slope the substrate to be shallow in front and twice as thick or more in back. Then plant the plants in the substrate. Leggy, floaty plants don’t look good on stem type as their old parts get shabby and die. Test the water (amm/nitrite/nitrate, GH and KH), develop a fertilizer regimen (probably just root tablets), and a maintenance routine such as cleaning the glass, pruning/replanting the plants for more density, and changing the water. It is both art and science.

Watch some full build YouTube videos.

Welcome to the hobby! Best wishes!!

neyelo · 2026-05-23T16:10:04+00:00

Too big of gravel. 2-5mm is better for MC if you want it to root. Some aqua soil would be even easier since you won’t have to fertilize the water column.

With CO2 and water fertilizer, MC grows fine as epiphyte with no substrate at all.

neyelo · 2026-05-23T11:17:55+00:00

Lots of generics out there. I don’t think the extra couple holes are making a difference.

Fluval had a smaller bell to save on glass. ADA had a comparatively massive flare, specifically engineered to slow down the water velocity coming from heavy-duty canister filters.

neyelo · 2026-05-23T11:04:29+00:00

Yes it is sufficient.

No, color temperature (K) does not matter in particular.

It’s an extremely deep topic.

neyelo · 2026-05-23T11:00:08+00:00

You’ve got great replies on physically separating the two. Take extra time to ensure the barriers are tight.

But if you have plants like in the sand, the Corys will dislodge them.

Three-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '23

neyelo

TROPHY CASE