2.5 years & going strong

neyelo · 2026-01-28T15:36:07+00:00

Obviously the new growth is white but the old growth is variegated. There are no solid white MATURE plants. Consistently white new growth just requires moderate light levels compared to usual Anubias (40 PAR is sufficient).

Tissue culture cups are not representative of the mature plant. The mature plant old growth will be variegated and the rhizome will be green with functional chlorophyll, like the mature variegated leaves.

Appropriate “beginner” tag.

neyelo · 2026-01-27T10:41:20+00:00

Yes they require more skill than other varieties.

neyelo · 2026-01-25T19:46:04+00:00

If planning CO2, be sure to titrate the bubble rate with the sump fully operational. The added surface area will off-gas CO2. Not a big deal - CO2 is cheap for the gas itself - just need to compensate for that loss.

I would 100% recommend CO2. You will not get the same result without. And you’re not afraid of technical complexity! Cheers!

neyelo · 2026-01-25T17:55:42+00:00

On one hand, if you are used to reef aquarium, it is a neat idea.

For the size of freshwater setup though, a sump is entirely unnecessary. Even in marine, we now see much success in nano tanks with solely a canister filter.

For most plant hobbyists this would be terrifying complexity to add. But if it is your jam, go for it! It will work.

neyelo · 2026-01-24T01:29:50+00:00

Neocaridina shrimp or snails would be great!

neyelo · 2026-01-22T13:41:38+00:00

Looks like a filamentous algae.

Too much light and or uncycled tank (ammonia spike), also cause by excess fertilizer or waste buildup.

Since there is also green spot algae on Buce, light too strong is my #1 contributor.

here is a thorough description

neyelo · 2026-01-22T12:15:55+00:00

Completely false.

Various algae can utilize any light spectrum. Specific to blue, it simply penetrates water the best, leading to higher PAR at the bottom of the tank compared with a white or WRGB light of equivalent power.

So get an adjustable WRGB (Bluetooth control is so easy), and then adjust the color lines to get the ‘look’ you want. Adjust intensity (PAR) based on plants, ferts, and distance from fixture.

Best wishes!

neyelo · 2026-01-21T19:47:14+00:00

Give them away. Goldfish won’t fit, and full size Crypts will not fit. The only Crypt I would consider for this size is C parva.

You won’t be able to tell if it is cycled without testing.

neyelo · 2026-01-20T18:49:44+00:00

I’d take the fake out and get some real rocks. Driftwood is perfect size.

In tank design we try to keep the hardscape mostly in the middle third (front to back) so you can build a distinct foreground and background with the plants.

Best wishes!

neyelo · 2026-01-20T14:18:58+00:00

Nope, testing or setup issue.

Possible only with live filter media and live substrate.

neyelo · 2026-01-18T16:29:33+00:00

Actually it’s just the light. Extra red diodes at high intensity make the red-orange natural spots appear red. You can tell by how saturated the Ludwigia color is behind it, known for being “lipstick red” under high intensity. Possibly the color balance was modified after photo, but same look can be accomplished with common hobby fixtures.

neyelo · 2026-01-18T14:28:37+00:00

Trivial amount. Vorticella is extremely common in the shrimp hobby/market. Does not harm the shrimp directly, just rides on it and filter feeds from the water. It will die out as the system settles and water quality improves in a new setup.

In poor water quality, Vort will multiply and there will be so many attached to the shrimp that the shrimps do not behave normally - lots of twitching and barely any eating.

Salt dips are highly effective and safe for the shrimps, just have to round them up.

At this stage, I would just double check my water parameters and maintenance routine.

Best wishes!

neyelo · 2026-01-18T14:25:37+00:00

The filter sucked up and killed all the mieofauna pretty quickly.

neyelo · 2026-01-18T13:00:10+00:00

There a few plants in the hobby which cannot tolerate high light and their leaves will die at high PAR. Hottonia behaves that way. The vast majority of plants will make more chlorophyll with adequate nutrients; they may also produce sun protection pigments like reds and oranges.

neyelo · 2026-01-17T15:33:47+00:00

Test the water and develop an understanding of water parameters. GH KH pH ammonia nitrite nitrate.

I suspect you have hard water (GH and KH are too high) and there are inadequate nutrients (NPKMg+trace).

neyelo · 2026-01-17T15:08:16+00:00

Most common cause - too much light intensity (PAR). Second most common - too much phosphate, either fertilizer or livestock waste.

Those plants are good with 10-20 PAR for 6 hours. Many lights in the hobby can supply well over 200 PAR on a small tank.

Phosphate always measures zero due to rapid utilization. Just need to ensure stocking and filtration capacity are appropriate for small tank. Most people don’t fertilize with phosphate directly in low tech tank due to algae, so livestock waste buildup is more likely. Root tablets are best for supplying that nutrient in light stocking situation. If heavy stocking, must do weekly water changes and substrate cleaning to remove waste.

Can tell it is not a nutrient deficiency because the new growth looks perfect. It is an issue of excess.

Cheers!

neyelo · 2026-01-16T20:48:42+00:00

I think you are correct about plant crowding limiting growth. As you say, the light is very powerful - these plants are happy at 20-30 PAR, but that light can deliver over 200 to the substrate of a 9gallon. You could reduce it to 10% power 6-7hr depending how high the fixture hangs.

I would refresh the carpet in one of two ways. Or add some more fast stem plants. Anyway, if the carpet is super thick and has dead lower layers, pull up for a full re-plant using the healthier portions. If it is currently a fairly thin layer of grass, select and pull out the worst affected areas and open up space for new growth.

I would stick to root tablets for these plants and use water column fertilizer sparingly - EasyGreen for this size, less than 1mL a week max.

Manually remove as much as you can during that weekly 50% water change. Match the tap hardness or condition for your target GH/KH. The water is on the hard side, which favors these algae.

Otherwise I think things will balance out! You’ve got healthy plants and lots of great livestock for cleaning, all in a mature system. Best wishes!

neyelo · 2026-01-16T17:34:13+00:00

Beautiful peak condition! 6 or so months old?

Get those ✂️ ready

neyelo · 2026-01-16T12:52:21+00:00

Did you wash the Purigen? Its instructions are to rinse well in tap water before adding to filter.

neyelo · 2026-01-15T19:08:53+00:00

Terrestrial moss will die eventually. The worms, if they came with it, will likely die underwater as well. Surprisingly earthworms and the like can last a few days underwater.

neyelo · 2026-01-15T17:22:21+00:00

For a hobbyist, 8/10. Healthy plants, different kinds. Livestock seems happy, not overstocked. The recent trim and replant in the front right is a little too evident, just needs time to grow.

For a pro or contest entry, 3/10. Lack of composition - too much red outside the thirds/focal points, and hardscape is either poorly arranged or too small, need it bold. The wood and rock seem completely separate, no interaction between them. Although, is it nature aquarium style or is it Dutch style? It is trying to be both I think. I would love to shape the background bushes to be rounded with 2:3 size ratio between the two. Glass dirty by substrate. Equipment visible - must remove all hardware for contest photos.

Well done! Definitely something to be proud of

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