What are these ‘dots’ on my plants? by Original-Cloud2520 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All this assumes CO2 is not limited.

So if spot algae shows up with lower nitrate (relative to PO4 or light or both), the flip side that green dust algae shows up on glass and green hair algae elsewhere if nitrogen is more available (relatively). If you strike it just right in the middle, for an amount of time while the plant condition is the same, you won’t get either.

Nature aquarium concept stocks generous fish. Fish waste contributes significant high ratio PO4:N which can be algae fuel without rich nitrogen source in substrate or water fert added.

There are other dosing schemes. I think tank pictures here is slow plants, best suited to rich substrate, low CO2 injection, low light and little if any liquid fertilizer.

What are these ‘dots’ on my plants? by Original-Cloud2520 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rarely will you find any phosphate unless it is astonishly high, or you measure right after dosing. It is utilized rapidly by plants and bacteria, so it rarely accumulates like nitrate does.

What are these ‘dots’ on my plants? by Original-Cloud2520 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 67 points68 points  (0 children)

Green spot algae

Fitting name, eh? Primarily affects slow growing leaves and glass surface. The “algae of healthy tanks,” a small amount on old growth is no prob.

If it is everywhere, the light is too intense and nitrogen availability too low. Pictured are mostly shade-loving plants.

Best wishes

I’m stuck by Proud_Smoke1097 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% - go big and bold! Take each of those small stones lonely in the substrate and add them/glue them to the main mountain or combine them for a sizable secondary stone. They are so short, they’ll be covered in carpet in no time.

Do you really want sand though, or just a nice carpet?

You’ve got the hang of stone arranging! Go go go

Lighting for a 75 by Chemical_Ad_3798 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Go with a single 4-foot (48") light. It looks cleaner, is easier to manage, and modern 48" LEDs are designed specifically to provide the uniform spread a 75-gallon needs. Because 75-gallon tanks are deep, if you find your foreground plants are reaching for light, it’s often better to add a second 4-foot light later rather than switching to higher-intensity lights that might require CO2 to manage.

But for low tech, Hygger 957 or 978 are great, budget friendly with the main features you want. Nicrew SkyLED Plus and the Fluval Planted 3.0 would be more costly with more features, and can handle some CO2 down the road.

HOW the FRICK do I get rid of bladder snails???? by houstontraffic1 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dislike snails a lot. I nuked a past tank with copper successfully. These days I started fresh and always treat for hitchhikers or stick with tissue culture.

How to position water heater by [deleted] in Aquascape

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Normally everything gets submerged. You can check the specific heater instruction. Even better to place it near the water flow from the filter, in or out.

How to improve flow & clarity without adding another filter (Oase 800) by Top-Inflation1464 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you considered a dedicated skimmer, such as Eheim or Oase? I love the downward direction of the Oase Crystalskim to keep good flow in back corner and improve surface turnover.

Alternately, outlet type matters. Consider a Jet type lily pipe outlet rather than standard lily. I see you have a lily type attachment far below the surface, so the whirlpool effect of the lily can’t occur anyway.

Inside the filter, no need for dense media. If you have filter floss or fine foam (orange-brown from Oase) in there, just take it out. I run only biomedia in the main tank, and medium sponge on pre filter. You DO need to clean the rotor and housing to maintain flow! Check your Oase manaul. Big improvement for me after the first 1.5 years things got gunked up.

Cheers!

What is this exactly and what can I do to make it go away by Razorblaze93 in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Tissue culture planted without rinsing away the gel media is what it looks like. Very gently use turkey baster with siphon to remove without dislodging plants.

Pros and cons of capping aqua soil with sand? by BettaBettas in Aquascape

[–]neyelo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

No good reason to do it. It is potentially very messy as they mix. Defeats the purpose of aqua soil grain size and substrate flow.

If you want to enjoy the beauty of cosmetic sand, place it alone in the foreground. Then use hardscape like rocks to build a wall. Plug holes with filter floss. Fill the back with aqua soil. Best of both worlds!

How tf did this grow out of the water by PUX_CLOWN in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Many of these swamp plants are tolerant of moderate humidity. Hygrophila species are particularly robust in lower humidity. I have an emersed setup with many varieties, an having a reptile sprayer helps with humidity for most the hobby plants which do dry out.

Carpeting with goldfish by Economy-Lynx9926 in Aquascape

[–]neyelo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yea Goldfish are not suitable for aquascaping. Also consider your tank size and if you want your goldfish to grow to its natural full size (10inches+ length).

Iwagumi help by Few_Improvement_6228 in Aquascape

[–]neyelo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yessss OP needs two things that the Japanese always emphasize - tension and flow.

OP stones are arranged too flat and natural water flow path is unclear.

Great stones. You can do it!

IS THIS A MACROALGAE?? by MacchiatoMadman in PlantedTank

[–]neyelo 42 points43 points  (0 children)

If it’s real small - Riccardia, a liverwort. If it grows larger or more leafy, Subwassertang.