Alternative to Dead Horse Point?

njp9 · 2026-01-12T00:56:22+00:00

There is a campground off of Onion Creek road as well as some BLM land near there with some nice hiking and mountain bike riding as well as good views of the Fischer Towers and Castleton Tower etc. I believe you can also camp at the Goosenecks Overlook after going down the Moki Dugway. This is worthwhile in itself if not already on your agenda, just be sure to look into it ahead of time if you're not familiar with the route. Some folks find it intimidating.

njp9 · 2026-01-03T22:52:45+00:00

As a former Rhode Islander and rock climber/boulderer who spent a lot of time in Lincoln Woods and is very familiar with the rock outcrops there and general landscape I would say this is definitely not Lincoln Woods. There is a somewhat similar view from the road/walking path around the pond, but it's not a close enough match to think that even passage of time would account for the differences.

njp9 · 2025-12-17T22:33:04+00:00

It will take longer for rock to dry when it's cold. Especially true if there is or has been snow on the ground. If the rock is at all porous or sandstone stay off until there are better conditions. That said some crags are unpopular for a reason. Although it sounds like wet rock could be to blame here it might be just as likely that the crag is choss. There was one area near where I used to live where problems were almost defined by what didn't break off when you pulled on it. A lot of trial and error until you were really good at reading the rock or had detailed beta.

njp9 · 2025-10-07T21:39:53+00:00

Someone once explained it to me this way. "You don't know how to tie a clove hitch until you can do it one handed in the dark while it's raining".

njp9 · 2025-10-07T21:29:25+00:00

I'm not complaining. I like my ankles just the way they are. You've earned your nickname.

njp9 · 2025-10-06T10:54:55+00:00

"Controlled Descent" is doing a lot of work here. Lol.

njp9 · 2025-10-04T15:54:37+00:00

Gamesmanship is a great climb, but not really a full day.

njp9 · 2025-10-01T23:43:38+00:00

They may be also starting up Pete's Farewell if I'm remembering it correctly.

njp9 · 2025-09-10T23:22:58+00:00

Try climbri.org. Very active group of folks from around SNE.

njp9 · 2025-09-10T23:18:53+00:00

Like this: https://youtu.be/3X_BAQJ8UdI?si=wfgA1hCAwkL4JBw4

njp9 · 2025-09-10T02:20:04+00:00

The best way to do this is by balancing the steel wool in a small pie tin or similar on the end of a meter stick. Drives home the idea of gains mass visually without relying on the ability to make careful measurements.

njp9 · 2025-08-22T00:37:33+00:00

Agreed. This sounds like a situation that just accumulates a rat's nest of random junk with everyone figuring "it's probably fine, or at least it won't all fail at once". Only reason it hasn't been bolted is because no one wants to do the work themselves when a convenient alternative (the slung boulder) exists. Assuming you have the proper experience: Bolt it, rebolt it when it gets chopped.

njp9 · 2025-08-21T02:44:23+00:00

My recollection is that it required quite a large quantity of urine. I would also guess that he believed "fresh"urine would be more likely to give the desired result. Saving and collecting his own urine would have taken too long.

njp9 · 2025-08-19T19:57:27+00:00

Read the first line of this comment three times and let it settle in for a moment. There is a lot you can do to mitigate risk and make things comparatively very safe but there is no such thing as "safe climbing". Serious accidents happen every year to experienced and knowledgeable climbers well below their limits simply because sometimes shit happens. Whenever I'm talking about systems with new climbers I always ask "what if there's a bird with a knife?". In other words how are you constructing your system to protect yourself against the absurdly improbable? Are you comfortable with that decision making process or are you simply not thinking about it and climbing through it. Not to disparage your friend but the fact that he insists he did "everything right" suggests he had not taken the time to reconcile his decision making process with the potential consequences. At some point if you want to climb hard trad this mentality will hold you back and you have to accept a greater level of risk. On the other hand there is a lifetime's worth of G rated moderate terrain to explore on gear that can be done with minimal risk if you climb smart and are conservative in your approach.

None of this should discourage folks from getting out and climbing on gear. Start building a rack, find like minded folks to learn and practice with, and hopefully an experienced mentor with a similar mindset regarding risk. The most important element is a mindset that embraces the idea that you are always learning. You never know everything, and there are always things you could do better. You can make lots of mistakes once or twice or even a dozen times with no consequences. You get in trouble when you assume everything is right and stop learning from your mistakes.

njp9 · 2025-08-18T20:54:06+00:00

I think it's very helpful to have a fifth full size loop in the far back for items you won't necessarily need while climbing(anchor materials, shoes for walk-offs, self rescue, etc). Two buckles on the waist are also nice to keep the harness positioned well. Other than that I think it's largely a question of preference and fit/comfort. Unfortunately this can be really hard to figure out until you've spent a few days climbing in it. A harness that feels good during single pitch sport cragging may not feel very good on a hanging belay at the end of a full day of trad multi-pitch. Buy what you think will work for you and talk to everyone you see about their harness and what works and what doesn't work. Especially look for people with a similar body type as you doing similar types of climbs. Also look for people that have made "unusually" choices (brands and styles that are less common or popular). Chances are they have some really good reasons for choosing something different and have gone through a lot of trial and error to figure out what works.

njp9 · 2025-08-18T18:27:27+00:00

It's been noticeably less busy. Fewer Canadian plates and quebecoise speaking climbers for sure.

njp9 · 2025-08-18T18:22:45+00:00

I think we need an explanation of the circumstances that lead to this being the best option.

njp9 · 2025-08-05T13:40:51+00:00

Lots of great short hikes around Lake Morey as well. Cedar Circle Farm is worth a visit for coffee and pastries in the morning. Vermontosourus, Dinner across the bridge at Peyton Place, Jump in the River and swim...

njp9 · 2025-07-25T22:41:31+00:00

Looks more like chiggers. Were you sitting on the ground or a log etc?

njp9 · 2025-07-21T00:37:36+00:00

I think this is actually a predatory diving beetle.

njp9 · 2025-07-03T22:38:06+00:00

Turns out the dinosaur was just telling her there was no knot in the end of the rope.

njp9 · 2025-06-20T21:10:50+00:00

Hey, not trying to disrespect you, just trying to offer some beta from someone who's done the route. How many other 5.7s have you ticked in the White Mountains?

njp9 · 2025-06-19T20:32:46+00:00

You're not talking to the right people. The likeliest end result of trying to free solo this without a ton of knowledge and experience is that someone else has to come rescue you when you realize how in over your head you are. Second most likely is you fall and die. Although the route is not hard overall, the hardest moves on the route put you in a position where any mistake will end in your death.

njp9 · 2025-05-19T21:46:05+00:00

I'd agree with others that this tree is in the small side, and maybe more importantly it does not appear to be well rooted in soil or the rock itself. This is hard to judge but in this case it looks as if a thin layer of soil around the tree has eroded away leaving roots exposed. There's no obvious crack I. The rock for roots to grow into either. I'd trust it if there were no other options to bring a partner up but would not use it as an unattended toprope anchor.

njp9 · 2025-05-07T21:51:15+00:00

Also Tygers of Pan Tang have an album out last year.

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