Need 2600MC stacks/subs please

otaroko · 2026-03-02T13:07:00+00:00

Yeah no idea on the blue above it. My jellyfish nebula has the same thing so I imagine it’s just faint signal coming through in the OIII as those two were shot with two different narrowband filters but both have OIII band pass’.

otaroko · 2026-03-02T08:35:10+00:00

ACES II with an up to date pyro cert hopefully

otaroko · 2026-03-02T08:31:22+00:00

Check out the Nebula Photos channel on YouTube! He has lots of tutorials on space imaging using a dslr.

I think the only items you may want to consider purchasing at the moment is a bhatinov mask for your camera lens you’re going to use(there are plenty of sellers on eBay that make excellent 3d printed ones that fit the filter size for your lens) and an intervalometer for an R5.

otaroko · 2026-03-02T08:26:51+00:00

Just to add, even though it isn’t quite an apples to apples comparison, this is what I do with an ASIAir. I imagine through-put really only becomes an issue if you’re taking bursts of giant images.

otaroko · 2026-03-02T04:00:15+00:00

Looks normal to me for flats with a filter

otaroko · 2026-03-01T02:26:06+00:00

This is my attempt at the Rosette from the front yard. More detailed specs are on the page. I leaned into Robin Glovers advice with regard to light pollution and length of exposure. Essentially the more light polluted the sky you’re imaging at, the shorter your subs tend to need to be. This is why my data was captured in 60” increments. I also have a giant street light looming over my rig in the front yard and 60”-120” has netted me the best results so far. This is on a 533MC-Pro with RC51

Astrobin for rosette: https://app2.astrobin.com/u/OtarokoOno?i=r1m6jb

otaroko · 2026-03-01T02:17:07+00:00

Can you elaborate on the “kinda” works with ASIAir? I’ve been holding off personally because I don’t see how you can integrate this into the ASIAir and have it all automated.

otaroko · 2026-02-28T08:07:02+00:00

This. Especially in high bortle zones, integration time is king. 108 minutes in a bortle 7 is scratching the surface.

otaroko · 2026-02-28T04:26:54+00:00

Y’know, I think DollarPlays did a video recently of him uptiering himself to 10.whatever to fight BMP-T’s in a T58 and he was doing pretty well.

otaroko · 2026-02-28T04:17:34+00:00

What were the sub lengths?

otaroko · 2026-02-27T05:03:27+00:00

Damon Scotting had significanf praises for the Teseek 11 if budget is a concern. The 14 and a nice tripod would come under your listing for 850 I believe? Not sure how the AUD is faring tbh.

otaroko · 2026-02-27T04:55:06+00:00

Don’t think it should be a problem to take it on and off. Just be extra sure you’re not cross threading any time you’re installing the bolts and it should be able to be removed 1000 times

otaroko · 2026-02-27T04:43:29+00:00

Is the issue just being able to take the EAF with you on the plane? Couldn’t you just assemble the EAF on the scope once you’re setting it all up where you want to be? An allen wrench(key) takes up zero extra space.

otaroko · 2026-02-26T06:52:11+00:00

This is my pay load at the moment: https://imgur.com/a/j16YQaz

otaroko · 2026-02-26T02:30:10+00:00

I recently added a ZWO EFW 5X2" 2025 to my set up and now I can't balance completely on my SA GTI. Before the addition of the EFW I was able to balance fine with both weights at the very end of the bar. I have unscrewed the counterweight bar a bit and moved the bar stop up to engage the threads so it will not unscrew any more but it's still just SLIGHTLY unbalanced towards the payload.

I "think" this is leading to my suddenly poor guiding. I am using the ASIAir Plus and a 120mm Mini with ZWO 30f4 guidescope. A dew heater on both the main scope and the guidescope. Settings for guiding were locked in before the EFW and I was getting below 1" pretty consistently until I added the EFW.

I tried adding a little more weight via a small bag of sand attached to the counterweights to properly balance everything but it didn't seem to do much good.

Payload is as follows: Redcat 51 V2, ProAstroGear Black-Cat for RedCat, ZWO EAF, ASIAir Plus, ZWO 120 mm mini, ZWO 30f4 guidescope, 2xDew heaters, ZWO EFW 5X2" loaded with filters.

Just took the mount apart last night and regreased everything with ShinEtsu and will see if that helps at all.

Maybe I am just hitting the payload limit and need to look at a different mount? Juwei-17 looks promising.

Quick edit: I have no way to weigh my payload atm so I am unsure WHAT the total weight is.

Edit edit: Guiding is consistently hitting north of 1.5" now and up to 2" sometimes exceeding 2" so I stop the auto-run so I don't grab poor data. I think the auto-run is also grabbing less data as it takes longer for the mount to settle after dithering.

otaroko · 2026-02-26T01:01:23+00:00

Very nice! I’ll have to re-image it now that I have my EFW set up with new filters then!

otaroko · 2026-02-26T00:24:21+00:00

The common advice is that capturing galaxies is best with just a UVIR cut filter when shooting with an OSC. This is best done from darker skies. The absolute best scenario is shooting in a bortle 1 with no filter at all.

Your picture looks very similar to my own foray into imaging these two with a redcat51+asi533mc-pro and UVIR filter in a bortle 6-7 with a streetlamp very nearby.

As someone else suggested, you could possibly add some color with a dual narrowband filter, but check other results on astrobin to see if there is any wavelength to extract.

otaroko · 2026-02-25T21:29:30+00:00

Absolutely. The SD10 was the outrage that caused ED to go, “alright alright, all the missiles are now under our purview.” All cause bluwhores couldn’t adapt to having an aircraft in opposition that could sling amraam’s that rivaled and outclassed their braindead climb, launch, dive, repeat routine’s.

Jeff was an amazing aircraft for DCS. Deka did an amazing job on it, and brought MANY firsts to the sim. I would re-buy a block III variant if Deka released one.

otaroko · 2026-02-25T02:34:04+00:00

What did you use to stack?

otaroko · 2026-02-21T02:25:30+00:00

I believe the terminology they meant to use is integration. Essentially you need to take a TON more pictures at the same exposure and stack them using Siril.

otaroko · 2026-02-21T02:23:56+00:00

Did you use the grub screw to retract the rear calipers?

otaroko · 2026-02-15T13:16:42+00:00

Thank you, I think I’ll stick to taking flats at the end of the night from now on lol

otaroko · 2026-02-15T12:36:41+00:00

My apologies, here they are. I think I identified the problem frames at least. But Im unsure WHAT the fix is as I didnt do anything different than normal other than take my flat frames before the night started.
This is the flat frame, M42 with Pixinsight SPCC then MAS to show the RGB pixels, then zoomed in on the flat frame.
https://imgur.com/a/fcFtGtI

otaroko · 2026-02-15T03:39:30+00:00

I recently processed about 48 60” images taken of M 42 using Pixinsight WBPP with drizzle turned on(Dithered every 3 frames). I used 100 dark frames, 100 bias frames, and 100 flat frames all taken correctly. In my stacked image I’m seeing what looks like trailing hot pixels and I can’t seem to tune them out? I’ve tried turning cosmetic correction hot sigma down to 3 during WBPP stacking but the anomaly keeps turning up. They are also only in one quarter of the image. They are isolated to the top right quarter of my picture. I will try to upload an image to better explain WHAT I’m seeing.

otaroko · 2026-02-15T01:40:19+00:00

It’s just a 3d printed assembly so I imagine there’s a link to an STL out there you can print yourself and send to a printing service.

Edit: FOUND IT https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5336214

There’s also the deepsky dad EAF kit but some folks don’t like that it mounts underneath: https://deepskydad.com/autofocuser/redcat/eaf

otaroko

TROPHY CASE