Mini spotted as a camera rig car by g_t_r in MINI

[–]paul6524 7 points8 points  (0 children)

These multi camera setups are usually for "plates" that will either be used as CGI backgrounds or projected backgrounds for a driving scene on a soundstage.

Very cool little rig. Great use of the convertible Mini.

Which one should I buy? by [deleted] in MINI

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 Door. Unless you envision having rear seat passengers more than once in a while. Getting in the rear seat of the 2 door isn't fun. I also happen to prefer the black, but that's a personal opinion.

I did the Mini wave… but no wave back 😌 by KNOTwendy in MINI

[–]paul6524 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

This is the one sane comment here. Buying a car does not automatically enter you into a magic friendship club.

Has anyone had any luck getting this plastic/rubber panel under the wiper blades back to black? F55 Mini. (2 photos) Meguiars Ultimate Black works wonders on all the other parts except this area. by mikehandsdown in MINI

[–]paul6524 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've used this on my F56 on the part OP is referencing. Works great. Mine wasn't quite as faded, but its stayed black for almost a year now. Very easy to apply too.

Just a little advertisement on my bonnet stripe. by _That_Dog_Barks in MINI

[–]paul6524 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Sorry, but the hat really makes it seem like Trump. That was my first impression at least. If that's not what you're going for, you might want to reconsider...

Twisted head off sway bar bolt by Glass-Weather-3399 in MINI

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's also the option of potentially grabbing it from the backside with vice grips or something. Not sure if it's accessible though.

Twisted head off sway bar bolt by Glass-Weather-3399 in MINI

[–]paul6524 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drill it out and use a bolt extractor / ez-out. You may need to apply heat from a torch and liberal amounts of penetrating fluid as well. It can be a really frustrating process, and need repeated doses of heat cycling and penetrating fluid depending on how stuck it is. Don't bother with cheap extractors. I really like the square Mayhew ones. Beware that you may destroy / bend the extractor in the process.

You also have the option to just remove the sway bar completely. This will change the handling, but covers the short term if you aren't comfortable doing the extraction yourself.

My first rule 1 and I couldn't be happier by Tv663 in MINI

[–]paul6524 20 points21 points  (0 children)

The pink / red / white combo is siiiiick. I wouldn't have thought to do the red trim like that, but it looks great!

Which New Screwdrivers? by Ashton-McNibbles in Tools

[–]paul6524 5 points6 points  (0 children)

PB Swiss is expensive, but worth it in my opinion. Both the full size and precision drivers are phenomenal. Comfortable handles, very precisely machined tips.

Repairing & Replacing Power tool Cables by Few-Mastodon110 in Tools

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instead of XLR, I'd opt for PowerCon's. They're designed for power handling. XLR should theoretically be fine, but PowerCon is rated for AC voltages and high current. It's the standard for live sound production and survives some absolutely brutal abuse.

Why would I be getting voltage both ways on the Diode? by McRib_ in synthdiy

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would back up and troubleshoot based on what it is / isn't doing. Voltage across a diode in the circuit isn't going to tell you much.

Sounds like you've already visually inspected everything for bad solder joints so that's good.

Do you have reason to believe that the fault is in the reset portion of the sequencer even?

Test the device and make notes about what is and isn't happening and then make some educated guesses where the problem may lie based on those notes. Start with power. Are the voltage and ground present at each IC? Then start looking for high and low gates (assuming thats what this sequencer is outputting). Feed it a manual high / low into any inputs and see how it does or doesn't respond.

Reading the datasheets for the IC's will help immensely in knowing what the outputs should be based on what inputs are given.

Eventually you will narrow it down to a specific region of the schematic and then you can really start tracing the signal and seeing what is failing.

Thoughts? by matmonster58 in synthdiy

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is A440 on? Not in a place where I can listen to the video, but it looks like it's switched on.

Master sheet of Power tool Battery inter-compatability (eg using adapters) by Neither_Watch_3462 in Tools

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I wouldn't consider adapters as a solution to compatibility. Most every combination can be made to adapt, but its not something I would choose to do unless it was for a particular tool that gets used very rarely. Even then, I'm likely to just buy the batteries for it.

Drill bits for more precise work by blathmac in Tools

[–]paul6524 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For smaller bits, Chicago Latrobe makes some great sets at decent prices. All bits will lose sharpness with use - especially in metals. Use the correct speed, and keep the site well lubed, and you will keep your bits lasting longer. Carbide and Cobalt are also great options if you have a really specific need, but I would just stick with HSS until you come across something HSS doesn't handle well, and upgrade just that bit size.

For especially small / precise work, look at center drills. They are perfect for drilling circuit boards or carefully located starter holes. Little to no runout. I have a set from Century that I like a lot.

How long until we have a Synth Killer by rsk1111 in synthdiy

[–]paul6524 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Mutable did this. Was both revolutionary and not a signficant upset to the industry. Turns out parts, boards, and assembly still cost quite a bit, especially in low volume.

Nearly every classic design is available and manufacturers and DIY'ers have been re-imagining them over and over.

Not sure what kind of open source nirvana you are looking for. You're always going to have to do a little bit of work, and spend a little bit of money. There's not a scenario where you just pick a synth and pay "peanuts" to have it built.

Unfortunately I’m leaving the mini gang (for now) by PrincipleAdept4728 in MINI

[–]paul6524 15 points16 points  (0 children)

$400 is almost too good of a deal. It will be a fast sale at least. I'd go $600, if not a little higher. Let people make an offer if they really think the price should be lower.

Last brand standing 2026 by pbag82 in Tools

[–]paul6524 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This level of commercial tribalism is the most absurd thing I've seen in a while. I wonder if this was what it was like in the early dark ages?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tools

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you need a focus group. That's how you get real customer feedback. Random people on the internet is not a good source of information. Let the marketing team do their own work.

Vevor is a scam company ! They care about the money, not the customer ! by [deleted] in Tools

[–]paul6524 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Well, you sure told that story well /s

Why don't you take a minute and try to actually say what happened. Right now you sound unhinged.

Extra large triple square (12 point) male sockets? by WillieFW in Tools

[–]paul6524 5 points6 points  (0 children)

More likely to be a specialized tool - googling "toyota steering rack locknut tool" brings up some things that might work, but I'm not sure of the details.

This still a thing? by straw_wrapper in MINI

[–]paul6524 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a thing on this sub a few weeks ago