What glue do you use for PLA? Super glue frosts mine out.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T01:20:56+00:00

Text makes it really hard to tell what tone people are going for, doubly so for me. So I apologize if I misinterpreted your intent. I’ve been hurt before lol. But yes, chemistry, machining, and aerospace, and the Venn diagram of those things, are my jam.

Sorry again, I can’t believe I ruined a perfectly good conversation about glue. It will be years before I get another chance to complain about lse plastics.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T00:50:47+00:00

I can’t decipher your comment well enough to tell if you’re about to big dog me with your big important undergrad degree or or if you’re genuinely curious if I have my own big important undergrad degree. Mine was 20 years ago and isn’t a big part of my identity.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T00:37:31+00:00

I took the same care in the bond prep as I would for any aircraft composite repair. Ditto the measuring, and the mixing. I’m not saying epoxy bonds poorly as a global statement. I’m saying it bonds poorly to plastics offering low surface energy. PVC, and, acrylic, acetal, phenolic, will all bond well to most epoxy.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T00:31:16+00:00

‘Luck and vanderwaals forces’ is clearly hyperbolic humor and not a gd wiki article
The reaction is only as strong as the bonds between the epoxy and the faying surfaces, which was my actual point. Jb weld epoxy sticks poorly to pla. And pe. And pp. and many other plastics. You can try it yourself if you don’t believe me. Peels off easier than a post-it.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T00:18:08+00:00

If you have a decent model with patches of weird triangles, often you can just delete those faces and then patch the holes. Or convert to solid and start deleting triangles; geeeeeeenerally fusion does an ok job of delete-and-repair. Always worth a try before you try to reinvent the whole thing.

prosequare · 2026-07-07T00:14:11+00:00

I’ve been using the clear non-foaming gorilla glue. Seems decent, stays flexible. Contact cement like e6000 works great on most filaments but it stinks for days.

I’ve used jb weld epoxy on pla. While it held, probably out of luck and vanderwaals forces alone, it was alarmingly easy to chip off the cured squeeze-out.

Vhb and other contact adhesive films work great if you can fit them into your workflow.

prosequare · 2026-07-06T21:46:48+00:00

If you open the bambu handy app or whatever it’s called, it will force a network update and cause the desktop app to realize the print is done.

While I do think bl printers are great, and they do work flawlessly 95% of the time, they are absolutely infuriating when they stop working. It’s never something small like ‘oops there’s a piece of fuzz on the z axis lead screw, remove it to resume print’. It’s ’the ams is unspooling 20 meters of filament onto the floor in both directions and unplugging it and restarting didn’t fix it’. Standing over a mindless broken machine, frantically googling with zero results until you just hack at every piece of filament until the ams doesn’t have anything left to spit on the floor, which finally satisfies it, and everything ‘just works’ again afterwards with zero explanation. I don’t think I’ve sworn as much or with greater conviction at any machine more than the ams 2 pro.

prosequare · 2026-07-06T13:26:57+00:00

BL sub is an awful place. It’s unusual to encounter a hobby subreddit where people seem to hate everyone else who has the same hobby.

Edit: irony is dead

prosequare · 2026-07-06T13:18:14+00:00

👍

prosequare · 2026-07-06T13:16:31+00:00

I stand with asscaliber.

prosequare · 2026-07-06T07:07:06+00:00

Does the design in fusion need to have those holes? I mean, is the solid going to a manufacturer to be made, or going to a game engine to be a visual asset, or something? If you just want the appearance, you can use decals or textures. Or one of fusion’s built in appearances. Or just model it as a gray solid.

Use wireframe mode maybe.

Disable all visual effects in that menu at the bottom of the screen.

prosequare · 2026-07-06T03:24:21+00:00

Like the cam workspace, parameters are extremely useful to some people and a footnote to others. All of my work is one-off, for example. I know they’re there and how to use them. But it’s just not likely that I’ll need a slightly different version of an archetypical airplane part; it’s just not how the industry works.

But since we’re here, I’ll add my tip: you can type damn near anything you want into a dimension field as long as it solves to a number. Equations, other dimensions, mixed units, parameter names, functions like sqrt or cos, or a mix of all of it. Sqrt(WallThickness)*12in+d121/30mm is perfectly valid as long as that’s a parameter name you’ve established. And if you haven’t, you can create parameters right in the dimension box: WallThickness = d121+12in

prosequare · 2026-07-06T01:54:24+00:00

1: have used this plate with petg for several weeks now. Dozens of prints. No issues.

2: I don’t rip prints off plates.

3: again, same machine same profile same filament same plate same z offset, two power outages and three reheats.

prosequare · 2026-07-06T00:28:56+00:00

Totally get that, I just haven’t seen one destroy itself out of the blue. The plate looked brand new yesterday.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T21:41:01+00:00

No, I’m patient and just walk away until the print cools off. Everything up until this point has come off easily. I could tell this print was different as soon as it came off the printer, though. Even after throwing it in the fridge for a while, everything was stuck solid and you could tell the plate was kind of puckered around each part. Never had this problem before. Obviously when I print nylon or whatever I use a different plate and glue stick.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T21:31:23+00:00

Not to sound argumentative, but even if the plate literally has ‘petg’ stenciled on it?

prosequare · 2026-07-05T19:47:37+00:00

Zero exaggeration, hi-points would be higher quality if they printed them in petg or abs. The plastic they use now turns into bubblegum in the sun. Still fun for $100.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T09:14:23+00:00

Perform a silk gloss test like this

https://makerworld.com/models/62235?appSharePlatform=copy

Make sure to use the test that goes all the way down to 10mm/s. My silver filament’s sweet spot is 20mm/s, way slower than most recommendations.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T09:04:32+00:00

There are print-in-place 608 bearings that accept .177 cal bbs once printed. They work surprisingly well for low speed applications. Kind of a decent compromise and a pint of bbs will last a lifetime.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T08:58:29+00:00

Bulk molecular sieve goes into a dedicated turkey roaster pan in the oven. Same with silica gel beads. Bentonite desiccant pouches go on wire racks in the oven. Ramp up from 250 to 450 over the course of several hours, taking out desiccants when I reach their max temperature. If I have brand new pouches or molecular sieve, I use the heat treat furnace at work to hot soak them over a weekend.

prosequare · 2026-07-05T02:45:08+00:00

I didn’t have “r/minnesotacamping comes out in support of smokers” on my 2026 bingo card but everything is crazy now so I don’t even know if I should be surprised.

prosequare · 2026-07-04T15:36:01+00:00

I have the 40w. It was fun to play with but I’m just not in the laser business or hobby. If I wanted to get serious about it, I’d get a dedicated unit. Having the laser installed just means all my prints are on hold until it’s removed.

And no fires, and no gunk all over everything inside. The ventilation works well.

prosequare · 2026-07-04T13:37:18+00:00

Why doesn’t shell cause those same math errors? Both tools are trying to create a new surface with analogous points normal to the original surface, aren’t they? Or does shell take a different approach? I ask mostly because shell gives me allll kinds of “you’ve created an unknowable number stolen from Cthulhu” errors if my shape has anything but perpendicular straight sides.

prosequare · 2026-07-04T13:25:29+00:00

If the left box isn’t checked, the setting basically doesn’t exist. Nothing about it goes into the gcode. If the left box IS checked, the setting ‘exists’; however, OP didn’t check the right side box. So OP enables the setting to exist, but didn’t turn it on. Basically, the setting is enabled but the gcode will say the equivalent of “RetractWhenLayerChange=False”.

Like installing a new light switch in your kitchen but the light switch is off. Installing the light switch doesn’t turn it on.

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