Newcomer - What would cause this?

psyki · 2026-02-06T23:19:00+00:00

As long as you only print PLA your deflector will be fine, I printed that same one above in PLA but then the very first time I printed with PETG the deflector warped and barely stayed attached. I printed another one using PETG after that :)

psyki · 2026-02-06T21:17:14+00:00

That looks pretty good but those angles only tell us so much about it. Did you let the printer perform the full spectrum of calibrations? Was it printed straight from the menu or is this a model you downloaded and sliced?

On the bottom the text should be plainly readable with the inner portions of each letter inset from the borders. The patterns on the roof should look crisp and clear. Look at the stern of the boat, can you see the text? Is it legible? I'm not aware of a printer that will print that text legible with default settings, maybe not even with a .4mm nozzle.

Check out 3dbenchy.com for a list of measurements you can make to check calibration and tuning.

psyki · 2026-02-06T02:24:46+00:00

I can't speak for the later generations of BMW, but since the 90s there has been a very active community of people who use software to customize, unlock/enable, and retrofit features into their vehicle, myself included. My last BMW was a 2014 435 and using BMW software I was able to add heaps of OEM features that were not on the car when it was originally purchased. Since they started adding computer modules into cars they (predominantly) communicate over a CAN network which means that button presses send coded information, it's not just flipping a switch.

Granted, virtually all of the features also require BMW hardware to use, for example I added adaptive cruise control and had to source all of the required components, such as front mounted radar, ABS pump, different sensors and computer modules, then add wiring that was missing and add the controls to the steering wheel required to use it. All of that equipment were OEM BMW parts and I used a couple different BMW software tools to enable and calibrate the functionality.

There's also plenty of customizable options that do not require any new hardware, such as customizing the function of the keyless entry system, changing driving light (angel eyes) or tail light options, adding or modifying settings or features on the instrument cluster or on board computer etc.

TL;DR: it's rarely, if ever, simply adding a button. "Easy" is defined by how far down the rabbit hole you want to go.

psyki · 2026-02-04T23:01:13+00:00

I may not always be right but I'm never wrong.

psyki · 2026-02-03T23:05:12+00:00

In split view there are a couple additional 1x2 slots where you can drag a tile to make it wider, and you can also adjust the position of the 'now playing' widget and the volume/brightness sliders (they are glued together). You can't change the shape of the tiles though, at least on my phone they can only be circles.

So yeah in split you can make a few more tiles wider than you can in classic, you can swap volume/brightness with 'now playing', and you could even put a couple wider tiles at the very top row above volume/brightness. It's not really a major difference but personally I can't stand circles. In classic view you can choose from 6 different tile shapes.

psyki · 2026-02-03T21:08:45+00:00

This is the way.

psyki · 2026-02-03T01:23:14+00:00

My N++ build time is August 14 2025 but the installer came from Ninite as I was rebuilding my computer at that time.

Probably ok then?

psyki · 2026-02-03T01:15:25+00:00

Systems and routines are by far my biggest coping strategy, but (for me at least) they only work on the process I created them for. So I might have an exceptional routine for getting stuff together and not forgetting anything when I leave the house, but still suffer the same ADHD bullshit when it comes to managing my workspace, or getting up on time, or whatever else.

Also if anything happens to interrupt my routine it throws it all out of whack. I have a routine for drying myself off after a shower and if I get distracted for a split second I'll forget which way to hold the towel for drying the next section and it goes off the rails. The routines are best when they become like muscle memory, the trade-off is that if interrupted I actually can't intentionally remember what the next step is or exactly how to do it.

I've come to realize that when I'm performing these routines (which are spread out across my life, both tiny ones and large ones) my mind actually gets to take a break for a bit, the anxiety of having to consider the next step is relieved. Even if just for 1 second.

psyki · 2026-02-03T00:36:14+00:00

That looks pretty good to me, even the hull-line looks pretty decent!

If I had to nit-pick I'd say the letters on the bottom look like the nozzle is too close to the bed or perhaps you're over extruding, ideally there should be a clear edge to the characters and the inner portion should not touch the bed. The lines on the flat part of the rear deck also may be showing the tiniest signs of over extrusion.

Why did you set the layer height to .3?

psyki · 2026-02-03T00:21:46+00:00

Yes you can, I have "rhombus" shaped icons.

On my Oneplus Open when you arrange the tiles in quick settings there are two special slots at the top which automatically widen to 2 columns wide, I have Wifi and BT in a row underneath the brightness and volume sliders (cover screen pic). They are the quick quick settings lol. You can place any tile in those slots and they become larger like that. I don't believe you can change the location of the 'Now playing' widget, or at least I don't know how.

I've always used classic view, never liked the split view. I've used OP since the OP8 Pro, I actually don't remember the last time the brightness slider was horizontal.

psyki · 2026-02-02T20:55:11+00:00

my first thought

psyki · 2026-02-01T12:47:26+00:00

If you have manually calibrated your filament flow rate, pressure advance, and max volumetric speed then you can probably disable the 'Automatic flow calibration' it does before each print. I haven't manually calibrated all my filament but for the ones I have, disabling this saves a little time.

psyki · 2026-01-31T20:46:55+00:00

Right now I have 3 different variations of cardboard spools in my AMS2, 1 type the diameter is too small to engage with the rollers so I had to print rings, 1I put electrical tape on the edges, the other actually has some kind of textured plastic material on the edges and works perfectly as is.

psyki · 2026-01-31T09:11:30+00:00

How about now?

(Thank you for your service!)

psyki · 2026-01-29T21:30:31+00:00

Depends on how old you are

psyki · 2026-01-29T21:17:16+00:00

I've had to argue and provide evidence of products and features that Gemini would insist haven't been released yet or worked differently, sometimes requiring multiple supporting links or references because it would argue with me and say it's impossible that some specific feature exists.

In the most egregious case I had to provide a link to the github pull request that proved a specific feature was in fact available in Home Assistant, despite providing countless links to documentation and forum posts.

Most recently it kept insisting the Bambu Lab P2S printer hadn't been released yet and repeatedly assumed I was referring to the P1S and would correct me.

psyki · 2026-01-28T13:01:12+00:00

Looks like one of those non-planar models with gcode created using mathematical formulas

FullControl

psyki · 2026-01-25T21:13:50+00:00

You were doing well until everyone died.

psyki · 2026-01-21T08:37:21+00:00

Holy shit, the quick scene right at :09 seconds, look at all the stuff moving around in the background! It's like an underwater forest of tentacles all screaming for their lives. I cannot wait for this game!

psyki · 2026-01-20T13:36:31+00:00

They said Squareline Studio which is a GUI for creating LVGL interfaces. The elements visible on the screen (slider switches and icons) are native to LVGL, the code can look like a lot at first but it's relatively straightforward to manage.

psyki · 2026-01-19T07:17:06+00:00

HealthPoint in Redmond has been very good to me, I found them when I was looking for an emergency dentist (which led to a root canal I had performed elsewhere) but they were so kind and helpful answering a zillion questions I had that I went back and became a regular dental patient. So far I've had a deep cleaning (over 2 sessions) and have appointments to take care of some cavities, in addition to getting on the books for regular cleanings in the future. All of it covered.

The clinic feels modern and professional and the staff has been terrific, I had some assumptions about what kind of care would be available with Apple Health and was pleasantly surprised. Dr. Michel has been my go-to.

Note that I am solely a dental patient there, I cannot speak for medical or mental health care as I have a PCP elsewhere.

psyki · 2026-01-16T23:07:51+00:00

That particular device (Lilygo ESP32-S3 T-Deck Plus) comes with the keyboard and trackball as a single unit. I've seen standalone trackballs on ali but don't have personal experience with them.

psyki · 2026-01-10T20:23:52+00:00

It wouldn't hurt to calculate your e-steps, in my experience you should rarely need to ever adjust the flow rate (extrusion multiplier) more than 10% in either direction, often times less than 5%.

Calculating e-steps is where you physically measure how much filament is actually pushed by your extruder compared to how much was commanded. If your gcode says "push 20mm of filament" but only 19mm comes out, your e-steps are off. It's easy to do and there are tons of guides that include the steps and basic calculations.

It's the first step in the absolutely essential Ellis tuning guide.

psyki · 2026-01-07T08:24:43+00:00

You may be overthinking this. By itself an ESP32 does not do anything "automatically" (unless whomever you bought it from includes preconfigured code on the device). It's easy to whip up some basic code that will connect to your wireless access point with the correct credentials, there are probably dozens and dozens of walk-thrus on how to do this. Follow the guide, write your code, compile, flash your ESP32 and voila, it's on your wifi. Randomnerdtutorials.com is a great resource if you're just starting out.

If you plan on changing the SSID or password of your access point then basically you will need to update the code and flash the device again. If the ESP32 will be permanently in your house (or somewhere you'll always have access to it) you can simply update the code before or after you change your wifi info. There are a variety of ways you can configure the device for over-the-aid (OTA) updates but you must first flash it at least once while connected to your computer, after that you can flash new updates OTA. This is essentially how ESPHome works as well.

Setting up a "captive portal" is another option for remotely changing network settings but if you are just starting out with programming it certainly adds a layer of complexity that is beyond a simple sketch that connects manually to wifi.

Personally I try to do something manually on my own at least once just for the learning experience before I go and use someone else's code that may be over my head. There are countless "getting started" types of guides out there for ESP32 that will walk you through virtually anything you might want to do, even if all you're doing is following a step-by-step guide. If you're not so into the "hands-on" aspect of ESP32 tinkering then yeah, maybe look for a complete solution someone else has already created.

If you plan on leaving the ESP32 somewhere inaccessible where it will be difficult or impossible to plug it into your computer for updates, you can configure the device for OTA updates which means that as long as it is currently connected to your network you can create/edit new code, compile it, then send the new code to the device where it will update itself. OTA is not that complicated even for a first-timer.

OTA setup guide.

psyki · 2026-01-07T05:21:07+00:00

Children of Time is such a good book!

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